Dakota Durango Forum banner

341 - 360 of 383 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
403 Posts
Discussion Starter · #341 ·
...next - preparing the tanks and exhaust -

things are gonna get hot under there and I figured I'd better try to mitigate any heat-related issues now. I wrapped the muffler with a full wrap kit, wrapped the twin inlet tubes with header wrap, and put peel-n-stick heat insulation directly on the tanks -









and now that there's nothing more to work on underneath there...on goes the big up-armored belly cradle -









the bash bars will protect the back halves of the tanks - I just haven't finished them yet...



so...that's where it's at - slow progress...but sure progress
 
  • Like
Reactions: Motohead1

·
Registered
Joined
·
403 Posts
Discussion Starter · #342 ·
alright - finally got the engine all buttoned up. Oil pans aren't made from the thickest metal and the chin of big 8-quart Milodon unit I'm using hangs down a bit and I wanted a little somethin' extra down there to help prevent 'unauthorized access' from rogue rocks, logs, Jeeps, etc., so I fabbed up an armored base from 3/16 plate and welded it to the bottom of the pan. Used a deathwheel as my 'poor mans' brake' to scour the fold lines, made the bend(s), and welded back solid - worked great.

109976


109977


...went with this sweet double-side o-ringed windage tray (Summit G-2339) to seal things up (hope it works as good as it looks) and studded the bolt holes -

109978


109979


109981


109980


the d-side front corner of the pan was 'close' to the webbing on the D60 axle so I sectioned off the corner just for good measure...

109982


109983


109984


Next - time to put this dude where it belongs...
 
  • Like
Reactions: Motohead1

·
Registered
Joined
·
403 Posts
Discussion Starter · #343 ·
alright - starting' to look like something

Engine's in, and front suspension/axle are in -





Front 60 is all buttoned up and ready to rock, complete with Dana/Spicer 5.38s, Grizzly Locker, Reid knuckles, RCV shafts, Speed House GM brake conversion brackets, Yukon spindles, Warn hubs, and a Crane cover with LubeLocker gasket -









These things are pretty cool to work with -





Welded some armor to the lower kingpin caps hoping to keep from ripping off the zerts -



The GM rotors fit over the Ford hubs from the outside and the wheel holds them in place (OE Ford rotors are held in place on the inside by the wheel studs), and in order for the GM rotors to clear the Ford hubs the outer diameter of the hubs had to be machined down a bit as did the centering race at the WMS. Fortunately Ben was able to chuck up the hubs in his lathe and turn 'em for me, and another nice perk was the fact that the OE GM wheel studs press right into the original Ford holes, so now all the wheel studs are all from the same '02 GM 2500





Speaking of grease, RCV has their own grease, and for the rest I started using Lucas Mining and Construction grease with Moly, which the company says is also good for high-speed/high/heat wheel bearings (disc brake systems), and it's ideal for all metal-to-metal contact points like tie rods and suspension joints, so now all I have to carry is one type of grease



 
  • Like
Reactions: Motohead1

·
Registered
Joined
·
403 Posts
Discussion Starter · #344 ·
...exhaust is finally - finally - done...

too tired to explain everything, but the short version is I added a second muffler, relocated the cutout, and decided not to use header wrap on anything and instead fab'd up two aluminum bolt-on heat shields and am using both muffler wrap and form-a-blanket from DEI. Even got the O2 sensor in place :)



























 
  • Like
Reactions: Motohead1

·
Registered
Joined
·
403 Posts
Discussion Starter · #345 ·
...copied a mod that worked really well on Bud - modified the rear overload to serve as an 'anti-wrap bar': drilled holes, countersunk 45* flat head cap screws, broke the 1" x 3/16" steel strap, cut the excess bolt thread/welded/smoothed the bottom nut so rocks won't rip them off, and viola - anti-wrap bars, especially at max drop (on either side), and the suspension can articulate 'naturally'. The overload itself spreads out the typical wrap inherent with short axle perches, and max drop is just after contact with the bolt sleeves. Plus the straps keep the overloads from 'kicking out'. Plus, as heavy duty as the overload is I'll probably never 'need' bump stops. Anyway it worked great on the last truck which had a ton of low end torque and axle gearing and bigger tires, so I figure it should be just as effective on this truck.

Also, topped off the Atlas with 2.5 quarts of Redline MT-90, and started running the gas tank plumbing.

It's slow progress...but it is forward progress...











 

·
Registered
Joined
·
403 Posts
Discussion Starter · #346 ·
...I'd long wanted to use the OE Dakota 360 air intake hat and air cleaner assembly, and after a careful bit of 'plastic surgery' the id of the hat now fits the Holley throttle body perfectly. Looks like it's supposed to be there, and matches nicely...and I can use the OE port on the back to intake the charcoal canister fumes, just like factory.





here's where I started trimming off the bottom edge, and just went all the way around and it fits like a glove -



I had also thought about using this hi-zoot intake from Extreme Velocity but it just isn't necessary, especially considering this engine is a 800-4500 rpm torque engine and the inlet is the same size on both - 3-inch







Gonna work good...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
403 Posts
Discussion Starter · #347 · (Edited)
so...I'm OCD on how my shifters 'throw' - I like all of the low range options to be 'forward' and hi range 'rearward' - just how my brain likes it, and because of that I had to modify/extend the Atlas doubler bracket to operate on the other side of how it comes. Now, when I'm "all in" all 3 shifters will be pushed forward, and vise versa when in hi range. Here's the result -

Here's how the bracket bolts up normally with the shift lever aiming to the d-side and low range being 'back' (disregard my hand-written marks - I had it backwards...) -



I flipped the shift lever 180* and made brackets to shift it from the opposite side, reversing the throw, and marked it appropriately -





used half of the original bracket and fabbed my own new extended half, flipped the lever 180 - perfect -





 
  • Like
Reactions: Motohead1

·
Registered
Joined
·
403 Posts
Discussion Starter · #348 ·
...BIG milestone achieved yesterday/today - after 22 months the cab is finally back 'on'. Had to make just two minor clearance mods to the fuel vapor line routing and trimmed the bottom edge of the back of the cab to get better access to the two fuel filler units, but otherwise it dropped right onto the mounts just like it was imagineered for it. Had a set of 17" dually wheels and bolted 'em up to make it easy to roll the chassis underneath the cab...and along with using both shop cranes Ben n I carefully and precisely lift the cab up off the uberstands and then down onto the chassis...and we were able to safely accomplish the j.o.b 👍

110494


110495


110496


110497


reinstalled the under-floor sound/heat insulation -

110498


good clearance between the valve covers and firewall -

110499


here's the twin charcoal canisters plumbed in and ready to keep the truck from smelling like raw fuel (bleck) -

110500


real good clearance for all of the shift linkage -

110501


Wheels n tires are next, and the thing will finally be 'weight on wheels' 👍
 
  • Like
Reactions: Motohead1

·
Registered
Joined
·
403 Posts
Discussion Starter · #350 ·
...bolted up two of the beadlocks and stuck 'em on the axle, and just had to toss on a fender to see what it's really gonna look like, and yah I'm diggin it (y)





real good fender clearance -

 
  • Like
Reactions: Motohead1

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Just read through your entire build. Glad you kept up with it even though this site isn't very active. I just bought a '00 Durango as my winter DD, but I still plan on playing with it...although not to this extent.

But great work all around!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
403 Posts
Discussion Starter · #353 · (Edited)
Thanks guys (y)

So because I'm going with a floor shifter I will no longer need the automatic trans shifter mechanism(s) on the steering column so I'm removing all of that hardware from the steering column - there's a little dongle within the column that prevents the key from turning based on shifter position...and it now just jiggles around in there, so I'm looking at either trying to surgically remove it...or somehow lock it in place so it won't rattle. I already know the truck will engage the starter without the PCM connected and I'm also assuming removing the auto shifter linkage and wiring from the equation won't prevent normal ops either...I hope.

I suppose I could also just replace the auto column with a manual trans column but I'd want to swap my ignition/door key switch over to the manual column... - I presume that can be done (?).

Anyway...if'n anyone has any insight as to how to get that little dongle out pls let me know
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
Switch it over to a manual column And swap your key tumbler over would be best but finding one is a little rare and having good plastics even more rare.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
403 Posts
Discussion Starter · #355 · (Edited)
cool - just knowing I can do that helps me a lot (y)

If I were to just remove all of the auto linkage etc, and swap on the plastic upper/lower covers from a manual trans column, I'd essentially end up with the same thing tho correct?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
403 Posts
Discussion Starter · #356 · (Edited)
so...I'd like to eliminate the immobilizer gizmo...and I've already eliminated the PCM from the truck, so I'm guessing that if I just unplug the immobilizer the result will be...'nothing' - the key will turn, the truck will start, etc...because there won't be anything 'electronic' to immobilize..... - guess I'll know for sure when I try to fire it up...:unsure:

...and full disclosure - if the electrical obd2/C3PO crap becomes an insurmountable issue and the truck is simply an electronic nightmare...well I've already decided I'll gut the whole electrical system and replace it with something more old-school like from a '93 Ram with simple, based 12v and B+ power, gut the HVAC system and install off-the-shelf heater and A/C, get roll-up windows, etc...and turn the truck into a tractor...but I'm hoping to avoid all of that.

I'm in the process of surgically removing all of the now-unnecessary factory PCM and EFI wiring from the harness to clean up the the whole front harness, which should make things a lot simpler under the hood.
 

·
Registered
1988 Dodge Dakota LWB RC 3.9V6 3 speed auto
Joined
·
1,563 Posts
...and full disclosure - if the electrical obd2/C3PO crap becomes an insurmountable issue and the truck is simply an electronic nightmare...well I've already decided I'll gut the whole electrical system and replace it with something more old-school like from a '93 Ram with simple, based 12v and B+ power, gut the HVAC system and install off-the-shelf heater and A/C, get roll-up windows, etc...and turn the truck into a tractor...but I'm hoping to avoid all of that.
Well, the 1993 RAM isn't "simple, based 12V and B+ power"; there's this Single Board Electronic Computer (SBEC) that's not OBDII, so you run blind and can't talk to it anywhere near as easily as you could the current.

May I suggest a Model T? Hand crank, doesn't even need a battery, no coil, no alternator ... avoid ALL that pesky electrical stuff!

RwP
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
403 Posts
Discussion Starter · #358 ·
my bad - I had a '93 bulkhead connector on the brain - I meant a 70's harness like from a 78 Power Wagon, which I have a ton of time working on and work great. But anyway... :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
53 Posts
cool - just knowing I can do that helps me a lot (y)

If I were to just remove all of the auto linkage etc, and swap on the plastic upper/lower covers from a manual trans column, I'd essentially end up with the same thing tho correct?
Yep you can gut the auto column an wrap it in manual plastic. so a few ways to do it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
403 Posts
Discussion Starter · #360 · (Edited)
cool - I found the plastic for a manual trans at...of all places...my local dealership, and with my Mopar club discount they're cheaper there (~$48 for the pair) than online, so I'll go that route (y)
 
  • Like
Reactions: Motohead1
341 - 360 of 383 Posts
Top