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As I understood them. As you burned your fuel, air had to be allowed to enter the tank or the tank would collapse. The way I'm seeing it is, air would be allowed to enter in at the remote filter (4)
and go thru the "Combined canister vent and leak detection" (5)
and then thru the tank rollover valve & vapor flow control (7)

When you refueled the tank, a very small amount of air would be displaced back thru the system in the opposite direction, the majority of the air venting out directly thru the fill tube

Ed
 

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Discussion Starter #302 (Edited)
...so you're saying if the factory LDP (5) is not utilized then the big LDP port has to be vented to outside air? I already got confirmation from Holley on how to route the middle evacuation line (to the air cleaner, activated via a stand-alone vacuum purge solenoid, not pictured). In that case I suppose I could just vent that big port to the air cleaner...which is where the purge hose will be going as well...like this?

 

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…so you're saying if the factory LDP (5) is not utilized then the big LDP port has to be vented to outside air?
Technically (and probably legally) it can't be vented to the outside…It can draw air into the system, but it's not allowed to vent air (i.e. gas vapors) out….

I already got confirmation from Holley on how to route the middle evacuation line (to the air cleaner, activated via a stand-alone vacuum purge solenoid, not pictured). In that case I suppose I could just vent that big port to the air cleaner...which is where the purge hose will be going as well...like this?

In the older systems, I've seen some vented to the air cleaner and some vented to a vacuum source

Ed
 

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Discussion Starter #304
...I did leave out one item - the purge solenoid, which is vacuum operated by the throttle body - it vents the center port on the canister to the air cleaner to be burned... - the large 'air intake' port will also go to the air cleaner assembly but not tied into the purge line...

 

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Discussion Starter #305 (Edited)
...woot! - it fits! :devil:

The 46RH bolted up to the same crossmember bracket the 46RE used, which 'located' the driveline same-same as the 360/46RE was. Bolted up the 440, and test-fitted the core support leaving all of the Dakota OEM radiator Tupperware in place - it didn't fit nearly at all - was about two inches shy of bolting in place and clearing the fan.

I unbolted all of the Tupperware, then unbolted the aux electric radiator cooling fan (which I don't see any need for in the first place with a mechanical fan and fan clutch), put the core support back on, and the 440 fits just like it was supposed to be there all along, including a nice 1.5" of clearance between the fan clutch and radiator. Plus, with the 3" body lift the radiator moved up which perfectly centered the radiator with the 440's fan - bonus. I'll fab up a fan shroud, coolant and washer fluid reservoirs, and that's that.

I'll set the cab back on the frame and confirm everything for good, then with the cab, core support and fenders all bolted up I'll confirm the front axle placement, and once that's done I can finally confirm what kind of oil pan I can use. Once that's done the rest is just connecting the dots.

this shows how far off the core support is with the factory reservoirs and electric fan in place -













 

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Discussion Starter #306 (Edited)
...hung the Atlas off the back of the 46rh yesterday - it slipped right into place just like it had been there from day one. Haven't got the clocking dialed in yet so left it 'high' to check the clearance against the cab later today or tomorrow, and I'll also confirm whether a set of big block valve covers will clear a Dakota vacuum booster without a body lift (I don't think it will, but since I'm doing hydroboost and a 3" body lift it'll be moot - but I still wanna know :) ).



Also, FYI this is how much longer a RH is compared to an RE (tape mark on the frame is where the 46RE ended)

 

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Discussion Starter #307 (Edited)
...I think I now know how the pyramids were built...

- got the chassis back under the body and then incrementally jacked the whole schmeal up to about 28" of belly clearance, including the 3" body lift - all-in right about where I think the ride height will be. Lots of nice clearance around the driveline, and the t-case fits nicely when clocked flat -









 

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Discussion Starter #308 (Edited)
...here it is - mocked up at my estimated ride height. Didn't 'need' the full 3 inches of body lift - 1.5" was enough. Me really likey :)

Got the front axle placement and oil pan determined too - those were the last two major pieces of the puzzle. Now it's time to burn some metal and stitch everything together - buuyah!

 

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Discussion Starter #311 (Edited)
time for an update -

so.....okay - this truck...like all the ones before it...is intended to be our family 'overlanding' off-road machine - multi-day backwoods camping/adventure wheeling with no support vehicle, and with that in mind...as I pondered how best to box the frame...well I had a couple other thoughts pop into my mad brain...which prompted me to do a couple other minor frame mods to increase the overall overlanding potential while also making the most of the available room between the frame/under the body.

The OE design of the Dakota's frame was for a single long gas tank on the driver side...which 'forces' both the driveshaft and exhaust over to the passenger side, and also angles the whole engine/transmission also the passenger side. Now, that's okay...but as I pondered how thirsty the 440 was gonna be (and it's gonna be thirsty) the thought popped into my head of 'Gee - wouldn't it be sweet if there was room for a second Dakota gas tank along the passenger side'...and about that same time I was also trying to forecast where the heck to stow the big 40" spare tire. I learned from my last truck that putting a giant tire in the bed essentially renders 80% of the bed useless for stowing gear...and we'd sure like to have the whole bed to stow camping gear, etc, soooo...hmmm - if the frame were wide enough for a second gas tank...maybe it could also fit a 40" spare tire back there more or less how the factory does it...and that my friends led to a few beers with my buddy Ben to discuss how stupid of an idea it would be to widen the frame, pros and cons, etc...and we determined it wouldn't be any big deal, so...naturally...out came the deathwheel...

I've been able to squeeze in about 8-10 hrs a week over the last 6 weeks widening the frame 3.5" per side, as well as boxing it all the way back, whilst also 'in-boarding' 4 of the 6 cab mounts...whilst also incorporating a 1.5" body lift on all of them. The frame was already factory boxed up to just before the front edge of the gas tanks, so that's where I cut the frame, plated and gusseted it, then capped off the top and bottom.

It's been quite the 'procedure', but now I'll be able to carry 48 gallons of fuel and a 40" spare - all under the body, with (according to both eyeball and paper math) plenty of room for rear axle articulation...and the entire bed is open for all the gear the family might need. Boyahh :eek:nethumb:

Here's the end result -







and for reference here's how it looked before -



Here's how I did it -

First, surgically remove 1/4" of frame via two parallel cuts with the trusty deathwheel to sever the frame completely -





1/4" plate main extension -

 

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Discussion Starter #312 (Edited)
once the alignment was confirmed, lots of gusseting with 1/8" plate (same thickness as the frame) -





top and bottom plates like these (top is 1/8", bottom is 'rock-resistant' 1/4") -





boxed completely all the way back with 1/8" -



and then in-boarding/lifting the cab and core support mounts enabling the use of all the OE bushings and bolts -





Of course there's plenty of finish welding and such, but it's done enough to continue with mock-up, and then comes the engine and trans mounts, belly cradle, gas tank mounts, and finally, "suspension".

I'm planning to access the spare from 'above' via a big trap door in the bed. Thought about dropping it out the bottom same way the factory did it, but I'll need the height under the bed to get the tire up high enough to clear the 14b so I'm removing most of the bracing under the trap door, and I'll use the spare itself to 'support' that portion of bed floor...at least that's the plan. Considering the loads that will be in this bed will consist of less than massive loads there shouldn't be any problems. Not planning to fab up a 'well' for the tire to sit in - it won't need to be 'sealed', just a basic cage to contain the tire, plus some kind of rock/debris shield. Meh - that'll likely sort itself out once I start fabricating things - see what works and what doesn't...
 

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Discussion Starter #314
okay Dakota warriors - does anyone happen to know if a steering column from the earlier model (98-00?)with the mechanical shift indicator will 1) bolt up in place of the newer '02 column, and 2) 'plug in' to my '02 column harness and function correctly? (ignition circuitry, cruise, turn sigs, etc)

...not exactly sure what year it was when the dash changed for the 3rd gens (from the older dash face with the mechanical gear shift indicator to the digital version), but I'd like to swap in the earlier column in place of my 02 column...if I can.

With all the other mods being done to the truck (including swapping in a 46RH trans...among many many other changes), being able to shift the tranny via the column and knowing what gear I'm in via the dash would be awesome.

So, I need to know of the columns will physically swap and 'plug in', and can I swap ignition keys from the newer column to the older column?

Thanks
- Sam
 

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Discussion Starter #315 (Edited)
well...got a glimpse of an earlier column and I'm afraid the older and newer ones are not very similar except maybe for the cruise control switches. So.....floor shifter it is :)
 

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Discussion Starter #316 (Edited)
Scored a good used hydrobooster from a 99 Cummins Ram and it's at Vanco for the hi-flow treatment (sold my previous Chevy unit to a buddy for his build).

Meanwhile the front suspension is tacked in place. Like my last rig I'm using a set of the big beefy Super Shackles from Offroad Design - they're actually intended for a rear application but because they're bulletproof and 'deflection proof' I like using them for the front too - these are the 4.5" shackles, and I'm using the 6" units in back. With the majority of weight on the wheels I've got a 23* shackle angle, and 6* of positive 'street friendly' caster at the kingpins - should be just about perfect.

After examining 5 different sets of front leafs I settled on a set of 48" Skyjackers for a Chevy, #C125S - these had the majority of my preferred options, the two biggest being available 'off-the-shelf' (not custom made) and top leaf design (eyelets angled 'up' at both ends - which gave me an ideal caster angle with no shims), plus also including length, lift (2.5"), tall bolted keepers, 5 leafs (not 4), and bushing size (1-1/8" - the biggest I could find). ORD sells poly bushings for these that utilize 9/16 bolts so got a set of those, tho they were for a Chevy application so they were 3.5" wide which I trimmed down to an even 3".

Progress. Rear suspension is next -







The frame has a very odd shape right where I wanted to put the rear fixed mount so to keep things simple I frenched the mount into the frame - worked great -







good clearance to the deep truck pan, tho I might plane off the d-side front edge for some additional clearance to the differential webbing -

 

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………

Anyway, Love the progress so far. I think those front mounted shackles will produce the same effect found in older CJ type Jeeps, that tend to push the tires into the rocks for greater traction. Can't wait to see how the rear comes out, now with the wider frame. Oh and love the big oil pan…. Wait! Did you drop the cab back on the frame?? I must have missed that part.

Ed
 

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Discussion Starter #318
yep copy that Ed - mine isn't rusty and I will be cleaning out that cavity and covering those access ports.

Yup cab is on for now mostly to have ample weight when flexing out the leafs, but also just to get things measured up. It'll be coming back off for the last time when the rear leafs are done so I can complete all the frame/suspension welding, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #319
rear suspension is tacked in place - I used 63" Procomp leafs, #13211 , and 6" ODR supershackles. I put 4 of the wheels/tires in the bed to try to simulate a full load - the rear leafs compress 7 inches before supporting the weight - nice and flexy. Next the cab comes off and all the final frame welding, exhaust, and more get done, then it'll be time to actually 'assemble' the truck for good. Progress!

no load -



loaded up 4 of the big meats, and I can't lift these by myself - well I probably could but it might wreck my back trying, so I'm guessing these weigh about 200 lbs each...so the weight should be a decent simulation of rear bumper, topper, gear etc - not exact but good enough to wag the shackle mount placement...which I can always adjust if needed. Frenched in the mounts like the front - worked great.







 
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