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Discussion Starter #1
I got a 0320 code the other morning after a few misses. I checked the voltage to the sensor and it showed 5, so I replaced the sensor. It still missed every so often and throws the code. It may run a few days with the code off then start missing again, and sometimes I have sit and wait around 5-10 minutes for it to start. the book said if voltage and sensor are ok to get the PCM checked at the dealer. Anyone know something else to check first, or if I can replace the PCM with one from a wreaked one of the same year model?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
No, besides being covered in oil, it looked fine. I found a new PCM on ebay for 200, but I don't want to spend the money on it if that's not the problem. Is there anything else I should check first, or anyway I can check the PCM myself?
 

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Jay
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don't know of any way to check the PCM. I have a spare and thats normally how I check mine :jester: it will cost about $100 for the dealer to check the PCM, so for $100 more you can have a spare pcm laying around, except you need to get the vin flashed which is another 100 but not needed unless the new pcm actually fixed the problem..
 

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May want to check the cam position sensor? Might be going also? Might want to pull the plugs and check the condition of them. Plugs can tell you a lot about how an engine is running.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Just got the new PCM, and it didn't help. Got a new code too, P0725. After I installed the new PCM, I was driving about 60 when it felt like it missed, but I think it may be the transmission downshifting. After the miss and the check engine light come back on, it wouldn't shift into overdrive, was running 2 1/2 grand doing 55. Any ideas what to start checking now?
 

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An intermittent fault in the cam and crank triggers is hard to catch. They both produce an oscillating signal, so unless the sensor is completely toast and stuck high or low, you need an oscilloscope to figure out if it is throwing junk signal. You also can't diagnose the sensor unless the engine is turning.

I would wait until it starts acting up and refuses to start. While someone cranks it, listen to the ASD relay with a screw driver, or pop the cap and watch it. The relay should click closed when you start cranking and stay closed. If it clicks back open, the PCM is losing crank or cam trigger signal. If it stays closed, then it's something else.

If the relay is clicking open, back probe the crank and cam sensor like you previously did, but hook it up to a test light and watch it while cranking. A good sensor will make the light flash regularly while a bad sensor won't flash or will flash irregularly.
 

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www.AIRRAM.com
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Could also be the crank shaft wood ruff key starting to break off... This has happened in the past and is most common with those who have run the "OLD STYLE" ASP underdrive pulley. What happens is that the wood ruff key turns the crank sprocket which in turn turns the idler sprocket which turns both cams.. If that key starts to bend your timing is altered at the crank and no longer agrees with the cam sensor... If not caught in time and allowed to completely break off, mechanical timing is lost and valves and pistons make contact.

Not saying this is your issue... but it could very well be... Its happened to me and a handful of others over the past 8 years.

The only way to check it is to remove the harmonic balancer, front timing cover to expose the crank sprocket and wood ruff key. Big job BUT small when you consider that IF this is your problem and you do not find it until its too late, you would be looking at new heads, valves, pistons and possibly more....

Good luck, please keep us posted.

SPEED SAFE, NICK
 
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