HOW-TO: Adapt 12-914 255LPH Holley fuel pump to work in stock tank. - Dakota Durango Forum
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post #1 of 31 Old 04-26-2008, 03:29 PM Thread Starter
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HOW-TO: Adapt 12-914 255LPH Holley fuel pump to work in stock tank.

Since they disconinued the direct replacement 255LPH fuel pump for our trucks (Holley P/N 12-922), I've written this how to that will show how to adapt a Holly P/N 12-914 255LPH fuel pump to work in a GEN III Dakota. Hope it helps!





- First thing to do is remove the fuel pump from the truck. Sorry, but I didn't get any pictures of this. Easiest way to get to the pump is to remove the bed off the truck rather than dropping the tank. Underneath the bed, remove (8) bolts holding the bed to the frame. Near the rear of the bed, unplug (2) wiring harnesses leading to the tail lights, one on each rear frame end. Also undo the harness at license plate light. Now, open the fuel door and remove (4) phillips screws holding the filler hose to the bed. It's best to have at least three people to help you lift the bed off the truck. One on each wheel well, and one at the rear to stabalize the bed. Lift the bed up and over the wheels and set aside.

As you can see you have very easy access to the top of the tank and the fuel pump.



- Now you must remove the fuel line from the regulator. This is a quick disconnect hose. To remove it, push the outer connector towards the regulator. While doing this, squeeze the (2) tabs from the inner connector together. Still squeezing, pull the outer connector away from the regulator. It should pop right off. NOTE!!: Be careful when removing this connector. There is a tiny o-ring that may fall out of the outer connector. This o-ring is not available over the counter (That I could find) and so an entire new hose and connector needs to be bought if it's lost! (Ask me how I know ) Now, unplug the fuel pump harness. Next, to remove the pump itself, remove the plastic lock ring by turning it counter clockwise. You may need to break it loose by using a large flat head screwdriver and a rubber mallet. Using the tabs along the outer edge of the ring to tap it counter clockwise. Once the ring is removed, just pull the pump out of the tank. Be careful not to get anything into the tank. Make sure you cover the opening of the tank so no debris falls inside.

Here is the pump removed from the tank.



- Once the pump has dried out a bit, the first thing to do is remove the fuel level float from the pump. First release a small black clip by gently squeezing the sides together,and pulling it out.



- Next, using a small flat head screwdriver, gently pry up on the level between the two attaching points. Pull the level straight out and set aside.




- To get to the pump, you must seperate the two halves of the housing. But before you try to seperate them, make sure to remove the hose from the bottom of the regulator that leads to the pump. If not, the hose will act like a spring, and will try to keep pulling the two parts back together. To remove the hose, use a tiny screwdriver or pick to pry open the hose clamp. Once the clamp is removed, carefully pull off the hose. Also make sure to unplug the wiring harness from the top of the housing.


- Troy

1999 RC Dakota R/T:
Kenne Bell Supercharger, Alchohol Injection, SCT Pro-Racer Package, 50# CPR Injectors, Walbro 255LPH Fuel Pump, Ported 50mm TB, JBA Shorty Headers, Flowmaster 40, 3-Inch Exhaust, MOPAR M1 Manifold, Street Scene Mirrors, 20" Chrome XS Rims, GY HP Ultra Plus's, DynoJet Wideband, MSD 6A, MSD Coil, Hotchkis TVS, Bilstein shocks, Cervini's S.S. Ram-Air Hood, Sir-Michael's Roll Pan, Stillen Front Bumper, Diamond Headlights/Corners, Custom Leather Door Panel pads, 180 Degree T-Stat, Taylor Wires, Optima Yellow Top, and More.

Last edited by Boomin5POINT9; 04-26-2008 at 03:34 PM.
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post #2 of 31 Old 04-26-2008, 03:29 PM Thread Starter
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- There are (3) tabs that hold the two halves of the housing together. Using a screwdriver or pick tool, work your way around the housing, gently forcing each tab past the end of their channels. Now pull the 2 halves apart.




- Now, using a small screwdriver, unclip the clamp holding the hose to the pump. Once the clamp is removed, while twisting the hose back and forth, pull on it to remove it from the pump. You must remove this hose now because the bottom is cone shaped and actually overlaps onto part of the housing. Unplug the electrical connector as well.




- Once everything is removed from the pump, the next step is to seperate the inner sleeve from the outside housing to access the pump and filter assembly. This is probably the most tricky part of the entire process. Inside the tower pictured below are 2 clips that hold the inner sleeve from pulling out of the housing. If you look closely down inside you will see one on each side.




- I found the easiest way to undo the clips, was to use two small flat head screwdrivers. Going in through the bottom, wedge the first screwdriver between the inner and outer pieces on the top section of the tower. This will force the first clip past the opening, which will let it slide by. Now, using the other screwdriver, do the same to the clip on the bottom.



- Troy

1999 RC Dakota R/T:
Kenne Bell Supercharger, Alchohol Injection, SCT Pro-Racer Package, 50# CPR Injectors, Walbro 255LPH Fuel Pump, Ported 50mm TB, JBA Shorty Headers, Flowmaster 40, 3-Inch Exhaust, MOPAR M1 Manifold, Street Scene Mirrors, 20" Chrome XS Rims, GY HP Ultra Plus's, DynoJet Wideband, MSD 6A, MSD Coil, Hotchkis TVS, Bilstein shocks, Cervini's S.S. Ram-Air Hood, Sir-Michael's Roll Pan, Stillen Front Bumper, Diamond Headlights/Corners, Custom Leather Door Panel pads, 180 Degree T-Stat, Taylor Wires, Optima Yellow Top, and More.
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post #3 of 31 Old 04-26-2008, 03:30 PM Thread Starter
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- Once the screwdrivers are in place you should be able to easily pull the inner sleeve out of the housing. Be careful while doing this because the screwdrivers will want to fall out if you don't hold them in place and the sleeve will lock back in before you can get it out. Remove the rubber cover that went over the top of the fuel pump. You will want to re-use this.



- Now you can reach inside and pull out the fuel pump and filter assembly. You can set this aside or discard it because you will not be reusing any of this.



- Now the factory screen must be removed from the bottom of the housing. Using a small flathead screwdriver or pick tool, gently pry up on each of the (2) tabs holding the screen to the unit. This screen can be discarded. We won't be using it again.




- Once the screen is removed you will see a small metal cap with a small screen in the middle. This is the inlet to actual pump and is quite a restriction, so it's a good thing we need to remove it anyways.



- Using a small flathead screw driver, gently start prying the metal cap off it's base. Move slowly around the edge, prying a little bit at a time. Eventually it will fall off. This can also be discarded. Once this is removed you'll see a plastic grate.



- Using a dremel, hacksaw, or other similar tool, cut off the end just below the grate.



- Now the opening must be made larger. The goal is to make it just larger enough for the cap of the screen that came with the new pump to fit through snuggly. If you do not have a drill bit the right size, use one slightly smaller than needed, and then using a dremel or similar tool with a small sanding wheel, slowly open the hole to the right diameter.



- Troy

1999 RC Dakota R/T:
Kenne Bell Supercharger, Alchohol Injection, SCT Pro-Racer Package, 50# CPR Injectors, Walbro 255LPH Fuel Pump, Ported 50mm TB, JBA Shorty Headers, Flowmaster 40, 3-Inch Exhaust, MOPAR M1 Manifold, Street Scene Mirrors, 20" Chrome XS Rims, GY HP Ultra Plus's, DynoJet Wideband, MSD 6A, MSD Coil, Hotchkis TVS, Bilstein shocks, Cervini's S.S. Ram-Air Hood, Sir-Michael's Roll Pan, Stillen Front Bumper, Diamond Headlights/Corners, Custom Leather Door Panel pads, 180 Degree T-Stat, Taylor Wires, Optima Yellow Top, and More.
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post #4 of 31 Old 04-26-2008, 03:31 PM Thread Starter
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- Now, position the new pump on the bottom of the housing with the inlet coming out of the new hole you just made in the bottom. The end of the inlet, should come flush with the end of the housing. NOTE: It's recommended you put the original hose back onto the new pump before installing it into the housing. The hose will fit very tightly over the new pump outlet and can be difficult to get on, especially if it's already installed into the housing. Use the new clamp that was supplied with the pump.




- Once the hose is attached, and the pump is positioned in the bottom of the housing, press the new screen onto the inlet of the pump. Push firmly to make sure the cap has securely grabbed the pump. This is now what will hold the new pump to the bottom of the housing.



- Being careful not to let the pump and cap seperate, slide the rubber cap you removed from the sleeve earlier down over the top of the pump. Re-insert the sleeve back into the housing and carefully position the opening down over the top of the new pump. The sleeve will not come down fully over the top of the new pump like it did with the original because the pump assembly is slightly shorter than before. But it will come down enough the keep the pump from moving around and pulling out of the bottom. NOTE: I do not have the hose attached to the pump in the picture. I had to remove the pump again and re-attach the hose. Which is why I suggested attaching it BEFORE installing the pump earlier. Once the sleeve is fully inserted, plug the original wiring harness into the new pump. You will not use the harness that came with the new pump.



- Now simply re-assemble the entire assembly just as it was removed and you're done. Make sure to use a new clamp when attaching the hose to the bottom of the regulator. Don't forget to plug the harness back in as well.

- When you re-install the pump assembly into the tank, look for a small arrow on top of the pump assembly. This arrow must match up with two lines on the top of the tank itself. Otherwise the float will not move freely inside the tank and will not work correctly.


That's it! You're done! Sorry I didn't get any pictures of the finished product. My camera died on me at the last minute, but you get the idea. Since the original filter assembly was removed, I would strongly suggest installing an in-line fuel filter. A late model Ford fuel filter is a good choice. If anyone has any comments or suggestions please feel free to let me know!

- Troy

1999 RC Dakota R/T:
Kenne Bell Supercharger, Alchohol Injection, SCT Pro-Racer Package, 50# CPR Injectors, Walbro 255LPH Fuel Pump, Ported 50mm TB, JBA Shorty Headers, Flowmaster 40, 3-Inch Exhaust, MOPAR M1 Manifold, Street Scene Mirrors, 20" Chrome XS Rims, GY HP Ultra Plus's, DynoJet Wideband, MSD 6A, MSD Coil, Hotchkis TVS, Bilstein shocks, Cervini's S.S. Ram-Air Hood, Sir-Michael's Roll Pan, Stillen Front Bumper, Diamond Headlights/Corners, Custom Leather Door Panel pads, 180 Degree T-Stat, Taylor Wires, Optima Yellow Top, and More.

Last edited by Boomin5POINT9; 04-30-2008 at 06:14 PM.
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post #5 of 31 Old 04-26-2008, 05:36 PM
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now thats a how to...
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post #6 of 31 Old 04-26-2008, 07:38 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you

- Troy

1999 RC Dakota R/T:
Kenne Bell Supercharger, Alchohol Injection, SCT Pro-Racer Package, 50# CPR Injectors, Walbro 255LPH Fuel Pump, Ported 50mm TB, JBA Shorty Headers, Flowmaster 40, 3-Inch Exhaust, MOPAR M1 Manifold, Street Scene Mirrors, 20" Chrome XS Rims, GY HP Ultra Plus's, DynoJet Wideband, MSD 6A, MSD Coil, Hotchkis TVS, Bilstein shocks, Cervini's S.S. Ram-Air Hood, Sir-Michael's Roll Pan, Stillen Front Bumper, Diamond Headlights/Corners, Custom Leather Door Panel pads, 180 Degree T-Stat, Taylor Wires, Optima Yellow Top, and More.
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post #7 of 31 Old 04-27-2008, 12:04 AM
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Did the box say for a buick grand national? I just got mine the other day, but left it at the shop.

Very good write up!
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post #8 of 31 Old 04-27-2008, 12:37 AM Thread Starter
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Yes it did. Also fits Camaro's and other GM's

- Troy

1999 RC Dakota R/T:
Kenne Bell Supercharger, Alchohol Injection, SCT Pro-Racer Package, 50# CPR Injectors, Walbro 255LPH Fuel Pump, Ported 50mm TB, JBA Shorty Headers, Flowmaster 40, 3-Inch Exhaust, MOPAR M1 Manifold, Street Scene Mirrors, 20" Chrome XS Rims, GY HP Ultra Plus's, DynoJet Wideband, MSD 6A, MSD Coil, Hotchkis TVS, Bilstein shocks, Cervini's S.S. Ram-Air Hood, Sir-Michael's Roll Pan, Stillen Front Bumper, Diamond Headlights/Corners, Custom Leather Door Panel pads, 180 Degree T-Stat, Taylor Wires, Optima Yellow Top, and More.
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post #9 of 31 Old 04-27-2008, 01:28 AM
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Troy
Nice job on the install...great pics/writeup: banana2:. I've got my bed off right now, so I might as well swap in the new pump.


Bruce
1998 Dakota - - 5.7 Hemi - RCC#115 - 6.1 Cam, pushrods & springs, DS Predator 91 tune, LX intake manifold, aluminum fuel rails, 2006+ coils & valve covers, SST dual exhaust, Magnaflow muffler & Pypes tips, 545RFE w/ Sonnax line pressure booster, Lokar floor shifter, 9.25 diff w/ Powertrax Lock-rite locker, Dynamic Grounding system,Viper electric fan, custom aluminum fan shroud & CAI, hood nosed, tailgate and fenders shaved, Sir Michaels rollpan.
My Hemi build thread
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post #10 of 31 Old 04-27-2008, 02:18 AM
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I have all of my amps in the bed of my truck. I could unbolt it and kind of swivel it, but I can't get it all the way off. Arrrgh.. I better send these pictures to the builder, I see them scratching their head at this.

Moree delayssss..... Blaaaaaaahhhhh.....
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post #11 of 31 Old 04-27-2008, 02:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bondslayer View Post
I have all of my amps in the bed of my truck. I could unbolt it and kind of swivel it, but I can't get it all the way off. Arrrgh.. I better send these pictures to the builder, I see them scratching their head at this.

Moree delayssss..... Blaaaaaaahhhhh.....
dropping the tank aint so bad......i pulled mine out in the driveway....ofcourse that was also with the rear end removed
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post #12 of 31 Old 04-27-2008, 05:03 AM
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Blaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhh, more fun for me!!
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post #13 of 31 Old 06-23-2008, 04:13 AM
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It took my builder about 2 hours to do the whole return system. He said he spent 30 minutes taking the plastic clips to seperate from the liner, that was the longest hold up, said he was the easiest part of my whole build, lmao.
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post #14 of 31 Old 08-13-2008, 11:47 AM
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What is the physical diff in the 914 and the 922?
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post #15 of 31 Old 08-13-2008, 01:38 PM Thread Starter
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I believe the pickup tube/pre filter assembly is the difference.

- Troy

1999 RC Dakota R/T:
Kenne Bell Supercharger, Alchohol Injection, SCT Pro-Racer Package, 50# CPR Injectors, Walbro 255LPH Fuel Pump, Ported 50mm TB, JBA Shorty Headers, Flowmaster 40, 3-Inch Exhaust, MOPAR M1 Manifold, Street Scene Mirrors, 20" Chrome XS Rims, GY HP Ultra Plus's, DynoJet Wideband, MSD 6A, MSD Coil, Hotchkis TVS, Bilstein shocks, Cervini's S.S. Ram-Air Hood, Sir-Michael's Roll Pan, Stillen Front Bumper, Diamond Headlights/Corners, Custom Leather Door Panel pads, 180 Degree T-Stat, Taylor Wires, Optima Yellow Top, and More.
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