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Lightning strikes & Dakota won't start...

6K views 40 replies 10 participants last post by  akwabba 
#1 ·
Hey there - my first post here because I'm trying to figure out an issue with my truck. I live in a place where I am not able to take it to a mechanic and have to figure things out myself. Here's what happened. It was a dark and stormy night... Kidding - There was a lightning strike near the truck. When it struck the lights flashed, horn made noise, etc. Since then, it hasn't started. Won't crank, won't make a noise, nothing. The lights on the dash come on, BUT some things don't work, such as the wipers, ventilation, lights, etc. When I plug the battery in, the right front headlight comes on, even though the lights are turned off. So far this is what I have been able to do.
I changed the starter, nothing still. I can get it to crank when I cross the red wire to the solenoid wire with a screwdriver. I have power to the starter and the alternator, but I have a struggle checking more than that. I have a multimeter, but that's pretty much it.
I did pull the computer out and did a visual inspection, looks ok.
I've checked all the fuses and relays, but they seem ok. It's hard to verify the relay's but what I could do, they seem ok too.
I do have a device to check the computer, but it cannot communicate with the ECU. 2 devices said the same thing.
Any more ideas? Keep in mind, I have NO way to bring it to a mechanic. I live on a fly-in only reservation in Northern Ontario, Canada. I've only had the truck for 5 months and it was running GREAT, until this happened. Thanks for any help/ideas!
 
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#2 ·
Assuming that the lightning strike nearby the truck, caused all your issues, the problem is probably a power surge. I would conclude that the PCM is fried -and/or a module located in the driver's kick panel called a timing control module. The PCM may have passed a visual inspection but you can't see fried circuits.

Ed
 
#4 ·
It is really hard for lightning to fry the electronics on any modern vehicle. The engineers made sure that any sort of strike would be dissipated into the ground or is insulated from the ground by the tires.
That said, if it was raining very hard at the time and the lightning struck during that period, then what I said before doesn't matter as the rain essentially made the circuit for the lightning to travel from the ground where it struck into the vehicle. Like any lightning strike on a home, any electrical and electronic device on a power circuit will be affected and on these trucks, it is a few things that are critical to the function of the vehicle.
To more accurately diagnose a bad PCM, you need to use the multimeter to back probe the connectors on the PCM with it in the truck and the key to the ON position. If you don't have the 24V DC output on any of the control circuits, then you will see that the PCM is fried, but since you had a scan tool, that told you as well that the PCM was bad. As for the lights, those are controlled by the CTM, which as stated before, is in the driver side kick panel.
 
#5 ·
It is really hard for lightning to fry the electronics on any modern vehicle. The engineers made sure that any sort of strike would be dissipated into the ground or is insulated from the ground by the tires.
Just as an FYI (and not to start a debate) Lightning produces a very small and localized EMP which can overload nearby electronics.

Ed
 
#6 ·
Friend was driving down interstate and lightning struck his truck and Blowed Computer out. So yes it happens. Also I
remember a report of vehicle being struck
and blowed all 4 tires out.
Say what you want, but I’m a cop and did not make the crap up
 
#15 ·
Because we all know, a cop would neeeever make anything up...

There's also this word that refers to past tense situations like this. It's known as blew. Do you go around town using the word blowed when you talk about what your mom did to the other guys at the precinct last night?
 
#8 ·
Thanks everyone! It was raining REALLY bad during it so there are several reasons to think that it's the PCM. Also, in my house I lost a printer, phone base, router, and a stereo with that strike so it is likely that it's the computer. If I can find the time, I might pull out the multimeter and see what I can get at the computer connections, but my life is VERY busy. Now I just have to find a good place to get a computer. I have to do it all online too, no way to make it to a dealer or auto parts store. I'll do my best! I will try and let you know how it all works out in the end!
 
#10 ·
Not on these PCM's. Chrysler used a dielectric gel that encased the electronic components that is extremely difficult to get off the board without damaging any of the components and since this was a lightning strike, it is more than likely that the entire board is fried.
 
#16 ·
Well, I replaced the computer and the vehicle is still the same. No changes, the front driver's side headlight is still on as soon as I plug in the battery, the radio works, the windshield wipers don't (but it squirts windshield washer fluid), etc. Any more ideas? Someone has told me ignition switch and there could be other things too. Once again, I have NO way to bring it to a mechanic to get things done, I have to learn on my own... Thanks for any advice!
 
#17 ·
Looks like the wiring harnesses may have been fried as well but I would go ahead and check ALL the grounds to see if they have any signs of corrosion or damage. That may be why you are having some problems but the lightning strike may have caused some part of the wiring harness to fry. Honestly, this lightning strike keeps sounding more and more like it was on the high end of energy. You may have to request a weather report to see just how powerful that storm was.
 
#19 ·
I'd love to know where to start!
Factory Service Manual, section 8W.

Then pick one - just ONE - of the affected circuits.

Walk through it carefully until you understand how the voltage flows, from the battery down to the item and back.

Pick a second circuit.

Do the same thing.

See what may be in common between the two of them.

RwP
 
#21 ·
I believe I said that! :biggrin:
 
#23 ·
In looking around at the wiring diagrams (thanks for the sarcastic response :p ), the only component that seems to be a common denominator is the integrated power module. I pulled it out, looked at all the wires and there was nothing loose, nothing corroded, and visually, the fuse box was clean. My concern is that I have no way to bring it to a dealer to get the parts (legally and physically impossible). I think the part needs to be programmed to fit my vehicle, but I'm unsure. I also don't know where to get one. Anyone have ideas?
 
#24 ·
UPDATE... I changed the TIPM and ALL the electronics work now, BUT the truck still won't start. There is no signal going to the starter. One of my relays are uncovered and I was able to manually run the relay and the starter ran so I know that it is getting power and a signal from the fusebox, but it still won't start. I did that at the same time as trying to start the car and it made a "I'm trying to start" noise, but didn't finish starting the car. I hear electronic motor noise from the fuel pump just so you know. Any other thoughts?
 
#25 ·
It sounds like you are making progress -- but as I suspected earlier, you have more than one problem.

My original suggestion stands, study the schematic again and figure out what drives the starter relay.

There may be some interlock preventing the starter from running -- for instance if the controller doesn't think the vehicle is in Park.

There is also a possibility that your new TIPM is bad.

What do you mean by "uncovered"?
 
#26 ·
Thanks Radioactive! I will continue to look through the service manual. Also, the relay was 'uncovered' in that the previous user of it had taken the black cover off of it to manually activate the relay.
I hope it's not the TIPM as that was hard to find. I had to order one from ebay...
I was thinking about the park/neutral position switch being a possibility, but I couldn't start it in netural. Not sure if I have the capability to get that replaced or not. I have to work in 10-15 minute intervals as it is -15 celsius outside...
 
#27 ·
The open relay alone makes me think the problem existed earlier. No one opens up a relay without cause. Try swapping that relay with another one of the same type.
 
#29 ·
You might have to look at the transmission controller next. It probably lights the PRNDL indicators on the dash -- and it could also be locking out the start signal. Something on the bus is loading down the CAN or LIN bus, whatever the truck has, hence the failure of the OBDII reader. The transmission controller would be on the bus of course. That's just my s.w.a.g..... Complex problems ALWAYS have multiple contributing causes.
 
#30 ·
I was looking up the transmission controller and it looks like it is integrated with the powertrain controller which is part of the ECU which I have replaced. I'm thinking of probing the OBDII port to see if it is getting power and all. Maybe tomorrow...

Any other ideas that I could check out? I hope to try and work on it tomorrow as I don't have much time during the week, especially with it getting dark before 5.
 
#31 ·
If you're certain the transmission controller is integral with the ECU, then I'm out of ideas. I really didn't think it was. Be sure... The lack of gear position indicators is a BIG clue.
 
#32 ·
I did find a thread on another forum, indicating it could be as simple as a bad battery....
 
#34 · (Edited)
Just to cross it off the list, get a helper to measure battery voltage during cranking. I know it's cold there... if the battery is pulling down too far all kinds of things can misbehave. Injectors, sensors, fuel pump, etc.

That said, I think you still have a controller problem. If not, the key would crank the engine. Again, if the controller doesn't see park or neutral, it's not going to crank.
 
#35 · (Edited)
The voltage dropped a little, but not much when I tried to crank the engine. It dropped about 1 volt. BUT when I turn the ignition to 'run', the interior lights don't dim or anything like that. I still don't have an indicator for what gear I'm in and I'm not sure what to do next. I have noticed that I need to charge the battery already, but it could also be because I keep trying to start it.
One thought I had was that I replaced the ECU/PCM before I replaced the TIPM. I'm wondering if there was a short in the TIPM that may have fried something on the ECU that might have damaged the replacement. I don't want to have to purchase another computer, but it's making me wonder.

Any other thoughts? It's warmer today (only a little below freezing) so I was hoping to work on it, but I don't even know what to work on at the moment... Thanks
 
#36 ·
You might be able to get somewhere by unplugging various modules on the bus until the OBD reader can read bus traffic. I know this generally works on CAN bus systems. Once the OBD reader is working you can pinpoint which module was loading it down.

That's all I got from this distance....
 
#38 ·
You might be able to get somewhere by unplugging various modules on the bus until the OBD reader can read bus traffic. I know this generally works on CAN bus systems. Once the OBD reader is working you can pinpoint which module was loading it down.

That's all I got from this distance....
I noticed that I had a parasitic drain on my battery a few days ago. I then ran an amp draw test with my multimeter and pulled fuses to find out what was drawing 1.4 amps. I discovered that the IOD fuses (both of them) are the culprit. When I pull one out, it dropped to .8 amp and both of them out, it went to .01 amps. Not sure what to do with this information, but it's a little bit of progress, I think...
 
#37 ·
Hey there - my first post here because I'm trying to figure out an issue with my truck. I live in a place where I am not able to take it to a mechanic and have to figure things out myself. Here's what happened. It was a dark and stormy night... Kidding - There was a lightning strike near the truck. When it struck the lights flashed, horn made noise, etc. Since then, it hasn't started. Won't crank, won't make a noise, nothing. The lights on the dash come on, BUT some things don't work, such as the wipers, ventilation, lights, etc. When I plug the battery in, the right front headlight comes on, even though the lights are turned off. So far this is what I have been able to do.
I changed the starter, nothing still. I can get it to crank when I cross the red wire to the solenoid wire with a screwdriver. I have power to the starter and the alternator, but I have a struggle checking more than that. I have a multimeter, but that's pretty much it.
I did pull the computer out and did a visual inspection, looks ok.
I've checked all the fuses and relays, but they seem ok. It's hard to verify the relay's but what I could do, they seem ok too.
I do have a device to check the computer, but it cannot communicate with the ECU. 2 devices said the same thing.
Any more ideas? Keep in mind, I have NO way to bring it to a mechanic. I live on a fly-in only reservation in Northern Ontario, Canada. I've only had the truck for 5 months and it was running GREAT, until this happened. Thanks for any help/ideas!
The EMP (electro magnetic pulse) from a near strike can induce thousands of volts into circuitry. Even if the current is tiny, so is much of the electronics on a chip. A micrgraph of a chip that's been subjected to something as small as a static discharge from your finger can resemble meteor impacts on the moon.
The damage to your trucks electronics may be simple or quite involved, without any visible damage. No option is good. Changing modules one at a time is a long, drawn out process for you and can't guarantee that a damaged module or device won't damage the new one. Flying ln a certified tech, with equipment , is likely far too expensive.
 
#39 ·
That may or may not mean much, it all depends on how long after key-off you were measuring the current. All the electronic modules have "housekeeping" to take care of after key-off. This can be as short as milliseconds, or as long as several minutes. Housekeeping refers to orderly shut down and saving of data and avoiding data corruption.

Next time, be sure you measure after at least 5 or preferably 15 minutes after key-off. Insert the meter in the circuit before key-off, as some modules will start their shut down housekeeping cycle over each time the power is interrupted.

In some systems, vehicle data bus traffic generated by one module will wake up other modules.

If after a 5 to 15 minute period, if you still see that level of current draw, then yes, the module(s) powered by those fuses have some problem.
 
#40 ·
I will try that tomorrow. I did the test without the key in the ignition at all. I disconnected the battery then put the multimeter in between the negative post on the battery and the connection. I waited for a few minutes to see if the amps would reduce as modules start up, then go into sleep mode, but there was no reduction in voltage.
Also, this might be normal, but when I pulled the 2amp fuse for the ignition, the ignition relay clicked, amps increased and would not decrease even after replacing the 2 amp fuse. Might not be related, but I don't overly know what I'm doing. Just trying things.
 
#41 ·
Possibly quick question. I've replaced the IPM with one that I ordered from eBay. Part #P04692091AG. The part from EBAY was an exact match to the part and model of mine. I'm wondering if this is supposed to be programmed to my VIN, BUT I was told that I didn't have to. Is anyone able to confirm that for me? My model is a 2007 Dodge Dakota SXT 4x4 4.7l Magnum V-8. I'm wondering if this is what is causing my no crank issue...
 
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