How To: Bypass Stock Amp - Page 19 - Dakota Durango Forum
Audio, Security & Multimedia Speakers, Amplifiers, Subwoofers, Alarms, TV's, Game Consoles

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post #271 of 282 Old 08-12-2016, 02:58 AM
Riggerwings
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It's been 7 months since my post above...my bypass is still going strong!

I did have one issue which I though was the bypass. My stereo wouldn't play music and just said "Chk Wiring". I heard a noise behind my seat (regular cab) so I pulled the trim. The new speakers I put in were a bit larger than factory, and the wire connector/terminal was hitting the metal body when I'd hit a bump. I simply rotated the speaker to where the terminals were in an open space, and re-screwed them in again. No probs since.

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post #272 of 282 Old 08-24-2016, 07:41 AM
Mopargirl04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dropitlow View Post
If yall want we can make these for you $25 + shipping. We have a crap ton of thoes plugs and when we do it we changed all the wires to green, white, grey, purple, Red, Black so when you go to wire up a 4 channel amp you dont have to pin try to find out what is what. You can just shoot me a msg on here if you would like one.

PS this works on the 2001 durango as well.
I just put a whole system in my 01 Durango, the HU is way more powerful than the stock infinity. I want to make one of the harnesses but am a little confused. The only thing I need to change is the pins on the plug? Otherwise the wires go together by color?
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post #273 of 282 Old 09-02-2016, 03:10 AM
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Just got my bypass done, the sound quality difference with a new HU is amazing! Definitely worth the 8 bucks for both connectors on eBay!
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post #274 of 282 Old 12-03-2016, 09:44 PM
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Question:

I have an aftermarket head unit, replaced the 2 front main speakers. the factory tweeters are still hooked up. Rear speakers are removed and wires taped off/isolated.

Can I safely bypass the amp, or will the 4 ohm lower speaker and 2 ohm tweeter represent way too low of an ohm value to the head unit? The FSM shows them in parallel with no crossover, so if the factory woofer and tweeter are both 2 ohms, that would be a 1 ohm load. So are the factory ones 4 ohms instead, or is the tweeter something like 16 ohms? I'd hate to just unhook it, but I suppose it's an option.

It's an extended cab that i'm building into a race truck, trying to reduce to the bare essentials and would like to mount the MSD where the factory amp is.

Last edited by magnethead; 12-03-2016 at 10:04 PM.
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post #275 of 282 Old 12-06-2016, 12:19 AM
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Most head units will put out to two and four-ohm speakers. Just at different wattages. I added Rockford Fosgates all the way around and kept my stock tweeters as well, It's been almost a year and I haven't had any issues.

While you're hooking up your wires to the new harness for the head unit, I would just leave the rears off of the harness as well, just to prevent a short in the future.

Next, get some small wire caps/crimps to put on the wires if you're going to hook them up. They wont come off like tape will in warm weather. You can buy a pack at any automotive store for like $2.

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post #276 of 282 Old 12-06-2016, 12:52 AM
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Thanks for the information. I figured I'd be okay but wasn't sure. It's a pioneer head unit, i forget the model. Few years old as I best recall.

Harnesses came from amazon, about to solder them up. Hopefully tomorrow I'll be able to get into the kick panel and start pulling the amplifier out. Goal is to (somehow) fit this little kiddo in the amplifier's place. Housing dimensions are 7" x 4", and 2 inches tall. I know it's taller than the factory amp, I just don't know by how much. Worst case, I'll hit the junkyard and dremel up one cover out of two.

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post #277 of 282 Old 12-07-2016, 11:15 PM
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So apparently the same guy in charge of several other complicated bolts was also in charge of the infinity amplifier. It's held in by 3 13/32 bolts, and the top one is behind the blower motor. What a genius he was!!!!

Alas, I did get it out. one click of the ratchet was all the range of motion that I had. Connector A went in no problem, but connector B needs the teller of the 2 short teeth cut down to match the shortest one. You have to take the pins out of that side to get a dremel's cutting blade in the connector.











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post #278 of 282 Old 12-09-2016, 03:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magnethead View Post
So apparently the same guy in charge of several other complicated bolts was also in charge of the infinity amplifier. It's held in by 3 13/32 bolts, and the top one is behind the blower motor. What a genius he was!!!!

Alas, I did get it out. one click of the ratchet was all the range of motion that I had. Connector A went in no problem, but connector B needs the teller of the 2 short teeth cut down to match the shortest one. You have to take the pins out of that side to get a dremel's cutting blade in the connector.
The blower is pretty simple to take out, just 3 screws. On the harness, I'm pretty sure I used a knife to cut those pieces. A nice set of wire cutters may have been enough as well. Either way, looks like you got it done. Awesome location for that ignition by the way!

2001 SLT, Reg Cab, 3.9, 4x4, Auto 42RE/A500

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post #279 of 282 Old 02-13-2018, 10:56 PM
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none of the images will load, can u send them to me via something else?
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post #280 of 282 Old 05-02-2018, 08:15 AM
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I'm trying to bypass stock amp in a 2004 dodge Durango and was told I need a bypass amplifier switch I can't find any please help
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post #281 of 282 Old 08-04-2018, 11:19 PM
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Need some help hardwiring bypass

I have a 2003 Dakota with the infinity amp, it's causing a lot of problems, I want to bypass but with so many replies in this thread getting a bit confused so I was looking for some help to just hardwire the bypass without using the two harness solution, is this possible? What colours on the two harness' attached to the amp need to be connected?

If not could I get some detailed instructions on how to do it for the 2003 Dakota w/Infinity amp and which Metra harness' I would need
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post #282 of 282 Old 05-06-2019, 11:28 AM
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Bump still need info
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