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Part-Specific Photos: Superchargers

33K views 49 replies 28 participants last post by  jdubbsls 
#1 ·
This thread is being configured for people to post pictures of superchargers installed on their trucks. Please add photos even if there is another truck with the same item in the thread - it can be very helpful to see how this product looks with various body colors and other modifications.

If you need assistance with posting photos, see this FAQ:
http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13624
 
#3 ·
heres mine, powerdyne 6psi polished headunit





 
#4 ·
If you change the location of your air filter, you will run a little bit better and have less chances of detonation. Because where your filter is right now, you are sucking in hot air off the exhaust manifold. So not only is your engine getting hot air forced into it, but you are heating up the blower as well. If you install a U shaped tube and mount the air filter in front of the blower right by the air inlet in the fender. You will get alot cooler air, which will make the engine run better and the blower last longer.
 
#5 ·
yeah i know, the guy i got it from bought it off a guy that originally had it on a ram so it didnt come with that piping or the computer relocation bracket, i know its even worse because i have headers too. id like to get polished alluminum piping to the air hat and also to route the filter to the inner fender but i havnt had much luck finding anyone that makes it
 
#6 · (Edited)
I was wondering why you didn't have the pcm relocated or the "U" tube. If worst comes to worst. You could always create a heat shield between the header and the filter. Also heat wrapping the header would help. Most guys that run the powerdynes heat wrap the "U" tube, so the tube itself doesn't absorb any heat. Because the powerdynes aren't powerful enough to run an intercooler. You want to try and keep the air around it and being sucked into it as cool as possible. I would recommend going to an exhaust shop and having them take some 3 or 4 inch exhaust piping and bending you a piece for a custom fit "U" tube. Then you can paint the tube black or blue. Otherwise what I have seem guys also do is go to autozone and buy some chrome coated metal import intake tubing. Then they would cut that pre bent tubing in spots that they need to create the correct angles. Then use the silicon sleves to seal and hold the tubing together.
If it is done right it looks really nice and it works well.
 
#14 ·
I bought the truck with the charger on it, and I have no advice or idea on the oil drain fitting:( The truck had arp head studs and thicker gaskets in order to safely run 9lbs of boost. I am now putting in a 408 motor. I went with the felpro gaskets this time around and plan to run 16lbs of boost on this motor.
 
#18 ·
I went with the felpro gaskets this time around and plan to run 16lbs of boost on this motor.
Which gaskets? the 1008s? whats yer comp ratio? I'd be really careful about 16lbs on a set of 1008s. they are only good for an effective comp ratio of 14 to 1. unless your comp ratio is only 5 to 1, i'd toss em and run some cometics. Otherwise first WOT pass will pop em. Don't want ya to ruin an expensive engine cause of the wrong head gaskets
 
#17 ·
i never worried about turing my engine go out and get ur self a case of the cheapest oil. 1st i took a punch and made my indent so my drill didnt move around then i actually took a unibit, loaded it up with grease and drilled till it hit 3/4 then took my tap and taped it put my an fitting in and loaded it with locktight. i flushed my oil 2 times to make sure the metal shavings were all out then filled it with my good oil and ur ready to go!! not to hard u just need a good angle drill its a pain in the ass to get into that space
 
#19 ·
Be carefull with the copper gaskets unless you have a engine built to handle detonation issues and high compression. If not, you want to create a cheap weak point. I would rather it be the head gaskets than the block. Been down that road with the copper gaskets. Like stated in the above post, you wont blow them but you will the engine if not built to support the boost.

Shane
 
#20 ·
ratio is 8:1, I was recommend to get the fel-pro's by a lot of people, even some big boost guys. I went with the 40mm thickness. The motor had cometics on it before, but they wern't any good, or couldn't be re-used. Here is what happens when you run to much boost on a non built motor, I just took this picture today:(
 
#27 ·
Uh, NO! I think the Cometics are better than the FelPros. I run Cometics. But... I think that if you're going to run the hard ARP studs then the Felpros are probably going to work out better for you. If the studs won't stretch and contract, then the head gaskets have to. My truck has launched on up to 22 psi on a number of occasions accidently. Stock pistons and head gaskets are still intact. I just knew better than to run it out with that much boost. Neither head gasket will fix a lean-out detonation problem. (nice pistons!) hehehe
 
#28 ·
Yes, I understand NOTHING can fix a lean out detonation, but your remarks between the different composites of headgaskets does makes sense as far as expansion/contraction. I did have the cometics that came with the motor/heads I bought, if you look at them, there are some flat spots when compared to the rest of the gasket. You could tell where the head lifted in spots. Have people ever ran 2 sets of gaskets on a head? For instance, if I was to run my fel-pro's and then cometics over/under them? I know compression would drop a tad but, but I am a boost motor, so the lower the better. Just a thought I had and I don't know the answer to!
 
#35 ·
Procharger Set-up (one of one?)

Here are some of my Procharger setup. Currently at 10psi @ 5000RPM. Below the bumper is the 3-core intercooler. Running the D1-SC with the 4.30' pulley. Boost is over 12psi at redline. The center console cover hides the digital FMU perfectly.
 

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