Transmission removal and installation - Page 2 - Dodge Durango Forum and Dodge Dakota Forums
Transmissions Shift Kits, Transmissions, Torque Converters, Clutches

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post #16 of Old 10-20-2009, 11:01 PM
threesixoh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nyteshades View Post
With a tranny jack, is it possible to drop it solo?
yes, provided you also have a lift. An extra pair of hands never hurt either. Sucker one of your friends/family members/neighbors into helping you do it.
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post #17 of Old 10-21-2009, 04:35 AM
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You should have 2 jacks, if you leave the exhaust in you must have one tranny jack because it is tight and you kinda bring it out and in on an angle, at least that's how I had to do it. Make sure you lock the 4 corners in with the brackets and then be able to loosen the front brackets so it will not interfere when you are putting it back in (brackets by the exhaust). Just so you know, I did this in my garage on the floor, I wish I had a real lift for this job.

Remove your distributor and the tranny dip stick first so you can lower it more without any damage. The bolt for the dip stick was also a bitch to get out and back in because you can't see it.

Top bolt on the transfer case was a bitch too, I used a 3" wrench and that worked great (lowered as much as I could). And the top bolts on the tranny from the top side of the engine with it lifted all the way up.

Another problem I had, the TC would not spin so I had to sand it down a little to get it to spin freely before I tightened the bolts to the flex plate, more wasted time...

This had taken me several days and nights so about 25 hours, that's just me, I didn't rush and swore a lot!!! I'm sure I can do it much quicker next time but it was PITA +3 for me. I had a lot of rust to deal with and my tranny would not break free very easy (bonded from all the salt). To shock the tranny free I used a 16" x 4" piece of steel and bolted it to the front of the bell housing, used a 6' skinny fence post that went through to the front and shocked it free with a piece of wood and a 10# sledge hammer, I will never buy a car or a truck that was owned by someone right in front of the shore.

It takes about 10 to 15 minutes just to fill the TC so hats off for the guy who did it in 3.5 hours. WOW!!!

Hope I can save someone some of the grief I went through...
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post #18 of Old 10-21-2009, 03:17 PM
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thanks for the info! Im getting my new trans very soon so I need to do this im gonna do this in the parking lot of my college apt hahaha. Hopefully i dont get caught!
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post #19 of Old 10-31-2009, 05:30 PM
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ok guys, im lceaning out the garage and pulling the rango in now!! Then its me, my tools, and a ATV jack to get it out!! Wish me luck im gonna need it!! Thank god im only 5 4 and have small arms might make this easier!!
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post #20 of Old 10-31-2009, 06:02 PM
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good luck..and take your time...



Easily worth 2 in teh bush.Bionicdodge.com..
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post #21 of Old 10-31-2009, 06:19 PM
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id get raped by the dealer before i ever pulled a tranny without the truck being on a lift.

only thing i can recommend is leave the t-case attached for the removal. will save time from having to reach those ahrd to reach t-case bolts on top. make sure before pulling everything to verify ALL connectors are disconnected. BE CAREFUL on the transmission module harness DO NOT BREAK THE EARS!

Air is your freind, use it if you have it.

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360 Air Intakez, V8 TB, MSD Coil, Magnaflow Y-Pipe back, Superchips 3715, Factory 3.92's, Firestone Destination A/T's, HID 5000K BI, HID 6000k Fogs, Monroe Sensatrac Rear Loadlevelers
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post #22 of Old 10-31-2009, 06:19 PM
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PS.... this might help you... you can thank me later.... shh.

"The overdrive unit can be removed and serviced separately. It is not necessary to remove the entire transmission assembly to perform overdrive unit repairs.

CAUTION: The transmission and torque converter must be removed as an assembly to avoid component damage. The converter drive plate, pump bushing, or oil seal can be damaged if the converter is left attached to the driveplate during removal.

REMOVAL
Disconnect battery negative cable.
Hoist and support vehicle.
Remove skid plate, if equipped.
Remove skid plate support crossmember, if equipped.
Disconnect and lower or remove necessary exhaust components.
Remove starter motor.
Support engine with suitable support stand and wood block.
Remove bolts attaching engine-to-transmission brackets to transmission.
Remove bolt and nut attaching each engine-to-transmission bracket to the motor mounts.
Remove bolts holding the engine-to-transmission brackets to the front axle, if equipped.
Loosen bolts attaching engine-to-transmission brackets to each side of the engine block.
Raise engine slightly.
Remove torque converter access cover.
Tighten bolts attaching engine-to-transmission brackets to each side of the engine block.
Lower engine.
Disconnect fluid cooler lines at transmission.
If transmission is being removed for overhaul, remove transmission oil pan, drain fluid and reinstall pan.
Remove fill tube bracket bolts and pull tube out of transmission. Retain fill tube seal. On 4 x 4 models, it will also be necessary to remove bolt attaching transfer case vent tube to converter housing Fill Tube Attachment
Rotate crankshaft in clockwise direction until converter bolts are accessible. Then remove bolts one at a time. Rotate crankshaft with socket wrench on dampener bolt.
Mark propeller shaft and axle companion flanges for assembly alignment. Then disconnect and remove propeller shaft.
Disconnect wires from park/neutral position switch and transmission solenoid.
Disconnect throttle valve cable from transmission bracket and throttle valve lever.
On 4 x 4 models, disconnect shift rod from transfer case shift lever. Or remove shift lever from transfer case and tie rod and lever to chassis component with wire.
Raise transmission slightly with service jack to relieve load on crossmember and supports.
Remove bolts securing rear support and cushion to transmission and crossmember. Raise transmission slightly, slide exhaust hanger arm from bracket Rear Support Cushion and remove rear support.
Remove bolts attaching crossmember to frame and remove crossmember.
On 4 x 4 models, disconnect vent hose from transfer case. Then remove transfer case with transmission jack or aid of helper.
Remove all converter housing bolts.
Carefully work transmission and torque converter assembly rearward off engine block dowels.
Lower transmission and remove assembly from under the vehicle."

99 Dakota Sport 4x4 3.9L V6
360 Air Intakez, V8 TB, MSD Coil, Magnaflow Y-Pipe back, Superchips 3715, Factory 3.92's, Firestone Destination A/T's, HID 5000K BI, HID 6000k Fogs, Monroe Sensatrac Rear Loadlevelers
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post #23 of Old 10-31-2009, 07:23 PM
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YOU ARE MY HERO!! I know I have the know how to do this, its jsut alot easier with a list that tells you every step THANK YOU SO MUCH!!
Just set up all my tools, trucks in, batterys disconnected and ive got 3 drop lights set up. Here goes nothing! It has to be out between now and noon tomorrow!
Wish I had air tools my dads compressor is here in thsi garage but never wired up 220 because he never expected to stay here this long.
As far as letting a dealer rape me thats 100% out of the question. Im doing a straight up trade with the trans so its gotta sit for a week without the trans, AND im a broke college student(thank you wyotech......)
Alright im off!! Im gonna keep a count of the time i spend. Its 223 and im gonna start at 230 sharp. Got some beers, soda, and nothing but time!
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post #24 of Old 10-31-2009, 09:23 PM
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420
y pipe and cat are out, had to cut the exhaust in two spots to get it out.... Took out the exhaust heat sheilds too. Crossmember is out, and going back in with 4 loose bolts so I can get the atv jack under the trans.
update later!
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post #25 of Old 10-31-2009, 10:28 PM
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whos bright idea was it to put stupid ass brackets on the motor behind the heads?? fuck me i need stubbys that I dont have here.... Nothing is simple on this truck, reminds me why I buy fords!!
and that im an idiot for doing this on my back myself...

Last edited by durangokid; 10-31-2009 at 10:46 PM.
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post #26 of Old 11-01-2009, 12:09 AM
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im about to give up for the night..
Got one starter bolt out, 3 of the 4 bolts off the front axle bracket. I think the guy who rebuilt the trans never put those engine to transmission supports back in all there is are these little plates that hook over the bell, got one bolt outta one of them. Got the front driveshaft out.
Do I have to remove my damn oil filter to take out bellhosuing bolts?? I dont have money to do a oil change right now..... I need more tips guys this thing is kicking my ass...
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post #27 of Old 11-01-2009, 03:06 PM
99Dakota
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shouldnt need to remove the oil filter i never have in the past.you should be able to zip most of the bellhousing bolts out from underneath... well rachet. lol umm the top to its hard to say been a while, from what others have said its easier from top and that could be true. give it a looksy.

good job so far, i woulda had it towed to a garage by now and payed them =P

99 Dakota Sport 4x4 3.9L V6
360 Air Intakez, V8 TB, MSD Coil, Magnaflow Y-Pipe back, Superchips 3715, Factory 3.92's, Firestone Destination A/T's, HID 5000K BI, HID 6000k Fogs, Monroe Sensatrac Rear Loadlevelers
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post #28 of Old 11-01-2009, 06:44 PM
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Putting the front on stands right now, and trying again in the day light to get those stupid brackets off from behind the heads. Got one bell bolt thats right behind the oil filter and I could remove if i loosened it last as I slid the trans out. Hoping with his help and starting fresh i can do this!!
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post #29 of Old 11-01-2009, 07:17 PM
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I have always removed the oil filter to get to the bolts on that side, but you should be able to spin it right back on and top off the oil when you're done.

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post #30 of Old 11-01-2009, 08:12 PM
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im just gonan do a oil change but im gonna put it back on for now to keep any dirt out of there.
Starters off, and I got 2 bell housing bolts out.
Now whats the story with these stupid metal brackets behind the heads?? do they both have 2 bolts into the block? I cant find bolts on the drivers side one theres too much crap for me to get my little arms in there!! Im dreading putting the stupid thing back in...
are there any other suprises?? Do I have to remove the stupid transmission to axle bracket?? That bracket and the brackets behind the heads are all thats there I have nothing bolted to my motor mount, i guess the last guy that did this 5k miles ago kept it out. (thank GOD this was done not long ago, all the bolts are fairly easy to remove!)
Next im trying to get the dip stick out, and the inspection plate.
thanks guys
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