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  #1  
Old 05-24-2009, 10:58 PM
cberr cberr is offline
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4.7 passenger side exhaust manifold

I saw a few previous posts on here regarding this problem, but if anyone could walk me through this... I seemed to have located a ticking sound I had for a while coming from this area. I am assuming it's busted bolts, as this seems to be a common problem on these, causing an exhaust leak. Didnt have much time today, so I only got as far as pulling the air intake and filter housing to get to the heat shield. From there, I tried to get the heat shield off, but the bolts/nuts? holding it on seemed rusted/ stripped. Any advice? Are these bolts extensions of the actual manifold bolts or separate? if I get past this, what am I looking for? Busted bolt(s)? crack in manifold? If the bolts, where do I go to get better ones, as suggested in previous posts. I guess I'll start there, and get more detailed as I get further. Thanks in advance. by the way, my truck is a 2002 Dodge Dakota 4.7 8 cyl. AWD and this is the passanger side exhaust manifold.
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Old 05-25-2009, 01:14 AM
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Some of the exhaust bolts are just bolts, some are studs if I remember correctly. Either way, you can replace them with Stage 8 Locking Header Bolts...they wont rust, they are STRONG (read wont break), and if you antisieze them before installing them, wont ever stick. I installed some probably 3 years ago and have had zero issues, and when I took my headers off to replace my heads last year, they were cake to remove.
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Old 05-25-2009, 03:00 AM
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The 4 bots on the corners of the manifold have posts on top of the bolt which the heat sheild attaches to. So if they're rusted on, you might have to just tear the heat sheild off to get to the bolt part that actually holds the manifold on.
But on mine, I could tell which bolt was broken cause it was the one with a stud on it, and I could move the heat sheild cause the bolt it was attached to was broken and would slide in and out of the manifold a bit.
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Old 05-25-2009, 04:33 AM
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Take off the fender liner it is MUCH easier to get to the manifolds. The ticking is probably from a blown out gasket so you should just go to the auto parts store pick up a new set and replace them. But I would also check the manifold itself for cracks or anything but I doubt there is anything wrong with it. Probably just a bolt snapped off and then the gasket blew out.
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Old 05-25-2009, 01:57 PM
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that's the same problem with mine after closer inspection. One of the rear studs holding the heat shield is broken and moving around. So, I guess it's a busted stud. I was hoping to get this done today, but it seems most of the local parts stores don't carry what I need...the gasket and the studs/bolts. Any suggestions on where to get them? Is it something I gotta go to dodge for? I know turbo287 said to get stage 8 locking header bolts. Where do I go to get those and do these have the extensions for the heat shield? If you know of any websites and/or stores I can order the parts I need, I'd rather get stronger after-market parts so I don't have to do it again. lol. thanks everyone for your help.
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Old 05-25-2009, 03:03 PM
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The stage 8's dont have extensions for the heat shields.....so you'd have to go without them. You can order them online at Jegs or Summit, they arent "cheap" but they are well worth it.

Get factory gaskets, I dont know what the ones at Autozone are like, but if they are anything likethe ones Gibson sends out with their headers, they are GARBAGE
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Old 05-25-2009, 03:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbo287 View Post
The stage 8's dont have extensions for the heat shields.....so you'd have to go without them. You can order them online at Jegs or Summit, they arent "cheap" but they are well worth it.

Get factory gaskets, I dont know what the ones at Autozone are like, but if they are anything likethe ones Gibson sends out with their headers, they are GARBAGE

The felpros that I got from advanced auto were good. They didn't leak at all when I replaced them for the factory gaskets on my manifolds. The ones that I am using with the Gibsons still do not work. I'm fixing to tighten them down one last time and then I am just gonna replace them with something else.



The bolts you can get at a hardware store. They aren't gonna be the locking type but you can get stage 8 stainless and that would be good. They won't rust and they won't break.
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Old 05-26-2009, 08:18 PM
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my 05 has the same prob sounds like crap and getting worse i can here it from inside the cab. i'll check mine too
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Old 05-26-2009, 10:56 PM
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That would be "Grade 8" not stage 8. If you ask for stage 8 bolts at a hardware store, theyll look at you like you are retarded. They will have an 8 stamped on the head too so look for that as well. Of course get the right length, anti seize, blah blah. Torque them properly too. Dont want to rip the threads out of the head, that would be bad.
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Old 05-27-2009, 02:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mthandt View Post
The felpros that I got from advanced auto were good. They didn't leak at all when I replaced them for the factory gaskets on my manifolds. The ones that I am using with the Gibsons still do not work. I'm fixing to tighten them down one last time and then I am just gonna replace them with something else.



The bolts you can get at a hardware store. They aren't gonna be the locking type but you can get stage 8 stainless and that would be good. They won't rust and they won't break.
Be careful, not all stainless is created equal.
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Old 05-27-2009, 04:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scjeep4.7HO View Post
Be careful, not all stainless is created equal.
Exactly that is why I said to get stage 8 (I actually meant to say grade 8 and that is very important). I had just regular stainless bolt in there before.... lets just say it was fun getting them out of the heads when they snapped off.
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Old 06-01-2009, 09:24 PM
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Thanks everyone for all the great advice. I finally got a chance to fix it, and knowing all the info in above posts really helped. I soaked everything with PB for 2 days. I think the hardest part was getting the 2 nuts off the heat shield. After that, I found I had two broken studs (the 2 furthest to the rear). one literally came out by hand. The other one was in the block, but not a problem. Went to the local Harbor Freight and got their broken screw/bolt extractor kit for 10 bucks, and using that took it right out. They were surprisingly easy to get out. The other non-broken ones I got out with an impact wrench and a couple different swivels, sockets, and extensions. I didn't bother trying to break them by hand, and whoever mentioned using a impact wrench, thanks. I think they might have snapped if I did it any other way. I had the impact wrench goin for about 20-30 seconds per bolt before they loosened up, but it definitely did the trick. Also want to mention that I pulled the air filter assembly . Then I jacked the truck up, took off the tire, and also removed the wheel well/mud guard so it made it very easy to get to everything. I was expecting much worse, but everything went pretty smooth From there, I coated the threads on the new bolts with anti-seize, made sure everything was clean from the old gasket, put the new gasket in place and put it all back together. by the way, it was easier to cut the 2 bolts where the manifold meets the pipe and put new ones, as they were pretty shot, but easily accessible for a sawzall with a metal blade. I tightened everything starting from center and working my way out a bit by bit, and finishing at 25 pounds of torque (as manual recommended). Before I put everything completely back together, I started it up, and to my extreme relief, no more ticking sound. Got it all together and took her for a ride, and sounds great..hope it lasts a long time. But once again, thanks for all the help. I am sure I saved myself probably a couple hundred bucks in repair costs.
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Old 06-03-2009, 06:46 AM
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  #14  
Old 06-19-2009, 02:19 AM
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I'm surprised by most of this dialogue. I have a 02 4.7. I went to 2 dodge dealers who were shut down on June 9, and between the two, I got my gaskets ( which should have a metal shield attached) and I also got 4 OEM bolts. Total cost was less than $20. One parts guy told me he'd rather give the parts to me than return them.

These 10mm bolts ( need a deep socket ) were new. Also good tools, with a universal are helpful. The replacement nuts for the heat shield were also avialable. Also, I'm confused about talk about hardware stores, hardware store bolts and sawzaws??

Regarding the heat shield, just be patient and work the nut loose - back and forth, with PB, if you don't want to just replace it with the real thing - at a wopping $2.65 X4 for the total four bolt set-up.

I'm also curious as to why everyone reports that the gasket just drops out clean, with no need to at least ease up the exhaust manifold - pipe conection a bit to allow for clean up and smooth reinstallation.

I am confused about this "clicking" sound, as well. To me it sounds more like a slight valve-and perhaps click cross. Also, the point is not to get rid of the sound, it is to maintain the engine and enhance performance/mileage.

Finally, does ANY one know of a good 2002 ish 4.7 repair manual. I looked at one from Haynes today and it was ridiculous. It had seperate chapters devoted to the 6 cylinder, 5.9 8 and 4.7 8 cylinders. The language was cryptic, and confusing. The pictures were sparse, and black and white, and the resolution was terrible. Many critical steps, such as working the bolts free with a torque wrench, the size of the bolts, etc. where not listed.

Is There a good manul out there? Can I buy into a website for my particular Durango - one that is detailed with skematics and real, clear pictures?

Any help will be sincerely appreciated!
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Old 06-19-2009, 04:55 AM
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Here's a good one for a 2002 dakota:

http://www.divshare.com/download/2528774-ac1


It is an FSM BTW so it will have EVERYTHING in it.
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