Wheel Bearing Replacement - Dakota Durango Forum
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post #1 of 37 Old 03-13-2009, 09:55 PM Thread Starter
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Wheel Bearing Replacement

I've noticed lately while driving on the freeway a humming noise. It starts around 35mph and gets louder and is most noticeable around 60mph-ish.

I think this might be an indication that the wheel bearings need replacement. Also, the fact that I pretty much submerged past the calipers in mud a number of months ago probably added to this.

The dealership just mentioned to me when I was in the a free oil change, so either they are telling the truth... or are just looking for money to make. Regardless, I am not going to get them to do it as I value my $700 (~$260 for the parts and the rest is labor).

I've checked my Haynes manual and it looks straight forward to replace... is it? Any tips that could be given to me?

Another question is, should I go with a factory part, or one from an auto parts store?

Lastly, I'm guessing this is a good time to do some preventative maintenance and also replace the other side before it start to wear, right?
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post #2 of 37 Old 03-13-2009, 10:01 PM Thread Starter
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I should also point out that I have Goodyear Wrangler S/A's which are not the same tires that came from the factory. Apparently they are comparable to the BF Goodrich Radial T/A. They were put on about 10 months ago and I have about 24,000kms on them.

When I first heard the noise, I figured it might be the tires since when I used to work for the city two summers ago, I drove an older Ford Ranger with the BF Goodrich tires that made the same noise (albeit louder) that I am hearing now.
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post #3 of 37 Old 03-13-2009, 10:07 PM
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What kind of truck? 4 wheel drive? I just replaced mine 3 weeks ago...I recommend doing both. Yes you can also get them from a regular auto parts store, but stay away from the cheap chinese bearings...they last like 3-4 months and fail (I know this first hand, very poor quality!).

..........2002 Dakota SXT 3.9 Liter..................................1988 Dakota R/T 451 Stroker............
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post #4 of 37 Old 03-13-2009, 10:19 PM
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Support our site vendors and get a damn good price too. Don't forget the discount code when you order!

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post #5 of 37 Old 03-13-2009, 10:24 PM
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Make sure your torque wrench will go up to 180ftlbs.!!!!

1.)After Jacking the truck up and removing the front wheels, remove the hardware and the big "spindle" nut. If you dont have an impact gun and have to resort to using a breaker bar, leave the brake caliper on and use the brake to hold the rotor while you break that nut loose(you will obviously need someone to step on the brake)...with a breaker bar, its very hard to take it off with out the assist of the brakes LOL! Another thing, you may have to "push" the caliper piston back into the caliper to put them back on...and NEVER step on the brake pedal when the caliper is off the vehicle. It will blow the piston out of it.

2.) Now is a good time to look at ball joints, swaybar links, bushings...etc. Take note of what could possibly need replacing in the future.

3.) Upon removing the brake calipers and rotors, clean the caliper slider pins with some parts cleaner (or wire wheel if needed) and re-lube them up when you reinstall them.

4.) Clean and remove rust from all mating surfaces with a wire brush or a scraper. Clean and rust free mating surfaces between the back of the hub and spindle is ultra important. Never seize both mating surfaces upon installation as well as all fasteners. ( DO NOT GET NEVER SEIZE ON ANY BRAKE COMPONENTS...ie brake pads or rotors.)

5.) Use proper torque values...bearing failure will occur if the wrong torque values is used. (123 ftlbs. on hub bolts and 180 ftlbs. on main spindle nut.)

..........2002 Dakota SXT 3.9 Liter..................................1988 Dakota R/T 451 Stroker............

Last edited by WarlocK451; 03-13-2009 at 11:06 PM.
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post #6 of 37 Old 03-13-2009, 10:43 PM Thread Starter
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Wow, thumbs up for the quick responses

Warlock, your directions make it seem like a walk in the park, which I am sure it is.

Yes, it is a 4x4 model. Also, is there a way I can ensure whatever I get isn't cheap chinese garbage (I too have had bad experiences with non-automotive stuff).

I would gladly support a site vendor.... I checked the parts catalogue and what would I need exactly?

From their site (FYI, I have a 4.7L 4x4 with rear wheel ABS):
TIMKEN Part # HA599528
Rear Wheel Drive; 2-Wheel ABS; Rear.; Front

TIMKEN Part # HA599406
Rear Wheel Drive; 4-Wheel ABS; Front

TIMKEN Part # HA599361
4WD; 2-Wheel ABS; Rear.; Front

BCA/NATIONAL Part # 515032 {Front Wheel Bolt Quantity=6 Flange Dia=6.31" Bolt Circle Dia=4.5 Bolt Size=1/220 Wheel Pilot Dia=2.810" Brake Pilot Dia=2.885" Flange Offset=2.271"}
Front Wheel; Rear Wheel ABS

BCA/NATIONAL Part # 515033 {Front ABS Bolt Quantity=6 Flange Dia=6.31" Bolt Circle Dia=4.5" Bolt Size=1/220 Wheel Pilot Dia=2.810" Brake Pilot Dia=2.885" Flange Offset=2.271" Hub Pilot Dia=4.732"}
Front Wheel; 4 Wheel ABS

BCA/NATIONAL Part # 515007 {Front Wheel Bolt Quantity=6 Flange Dia=6.31" Bolt Circle Dia=4.5 Bolt Size=M14X1.5 Wheel Pilot Dia=2.810" Brake Pilot Dia=2.890" Flange Offset=2.106" Hub Pilot Dia=3.5" Splines=31}
Front Wheel; Rear Wheel ABS

TIMKEN Part # SP450100
4WD; 4-Wheel ABS; 6 Stud; Front Right

TIMKEN Part # SP450101
4WD; 4-Wheel ABS; 6 Stud; Front Left

BCA/NATIONAL Part # 515009 {Front ABS Bolt Quantity=6 Flange Dia=6.31" Bolt Circle Dia=4.5" Bolt Size=M14X1.5 Wheel Pilot Dia=2.810" Brake Pilot Dia=2.890" Flange Offset=2.106" Hub Pilot Dia=3.5" Splines=31}
Front Wheel; Right; 4 Wheel ABS

BCA/NATIONAL Part # 515008 {Front ABS Bolt Quantity=6 Flange Dia=6.31" Bolt Circle Dia=4.5" Bolt Size=M14X1.5 Wheel Pilot Dia=2.810" Brake Pilot Dia=2.890" Flange Offset=2.106" Hub Pilot Dia=3.5" Splines=31}
Front Wheel; Left; 4 Wheel ABS
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post #7 of 37 Old 03-13-2009, 10:48 PM
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Do you have 4 wheel ABS or Rear Wheel ABS?

..........2002 Dakota SXT 3.9 Liter..................................1988 Dakota R/T 451 Stroker............
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post #8 of 37 Old 03-13-2009, 10:56 PM
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Another thing. When you get the caliper and rotors off, and should you find that the old bearing hub is Seized in bore of the spindle, spray it with penetrating oil, and take a hammer and EVENLY drive the old bearing hub out by striking it on the BACK SIDE of the hub alternating from the the 3 and 9 o'clock postions or what ever needed, just make sure you drive it out evenly . You don't want to cock it while doing this..you can actually stretch the bore on the spindle if its not driven out evenly...its a precision machined surface. Don't be afraid to do this, but just be careful.

..........2002 Dakota SXT 3.9 Liter..................................1988 Dakota R/T 451 Stroker............

Last edited by WarlocK451; 03-13-2009 at 11:06 PM.
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post #9 of 37 Old 03-13-2009, 11:01 PM
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If you have 4x4 with Rear Wheel ABS...Go with the TIMKEN HA599361. American Made and Good Quality.

If you have 4x4 with 4 wheel ABS...Go with the TIMKEN SP450100 and SP450101

Spend the money and ya wont have to replace them in 3-6 months!

..........2002 Dakota SXT 3.9 Liter..................................1988 Dakota R/T 451 Stroker............

Last edited by WarlocK451; 03-13-2009 at 11:47 PM.
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post #10 of 37 Old 03-14-2009, 12:34 AM Thread Starter
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Called one of the parts stores that I usually get good prices from.... They wanted $380 per side! That's more expensive than the dealership!!!

Correct me if I am wrong, but I thought that the wheel bearings were not user serviceable and the entire hub had to be replaced?

I am going to also ask another newbie question, but are there rear wheel bearings for our trucks?
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post #11 of 37 Old 03-15-2009, 09:56 PM Thread Starter
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Just an update:

I jacked up the front end yesterday and first spun both tires by hand followed by wiggling the tire at the 6 and 12 o'clock position.

When spinning, I heard a faint noise (on both sides) which is probably just the brake pad rubbing along the rotor (I have powerslot rotors).

When wiggling the tire, I detected no play at all on both sides. I couldn't really reef on it since I was in an awkward position, but I tried my best to wiggle it and I couldnt see or feel any looseness.

So what else could it be? I listened to it more, and you can start to hear it around 50km/h (35mph) and it is really apparent around 100km/h (60mph).

From what I found on the forum, it could be one of two (unless there is more):
1.) Tire noise (Goodyear Wrangley SilentArmor): Possibly defective tire? The treads appear to be find on visual inspection with no uneven wearing. Doing a search on reviews of the tire mentions no noise issues with the tire.
2.) Lower balljoints: I had the driver side replaced under warranty last September/October and then the passenger side replaced under warranty in November, so I doubt that is what it is.
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post #12 of 37 Old 03-16-2009, 02:30 AM Thread Starter
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Hmmm no responses yet.

Lets say it is the bearings (I found a post elsewhere describing the exact symptoms that I have and i was the wheel bearings). Would it be better to buy bearings and get someone to press the new ones in, or buy an entirely new hub and bearings?
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post #13 of 37 Old 03-16-2009, 02:41 AM
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well mine is a 2wd and i got SKF bearings and changed them..not the hub..just the bearing..and i got rid of the humming noise...

GOT 1 ???
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post #14 of 37 Old 03-16-2009, 06:41 AM
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yes, there are rear bearings on these trucks, they are inside the axle tube. you'll have to pull the diff cover, remove the center pin, undo the c-clips, and pull the axles out, THEN get a slide hammer and pull the oldbearings out.

you can get a factory style replacement, or they make one with what is basically, a self contained race, for use when your axle tube has been damaged.

gently hammer your new ones back into place, and replace the oil seal. and put it all back together!

simple job. I'm glad I don't have 4wheel ABS...rear bearings are like $30 each, and the entire front hubs are like $120?


however, my money is on your pinion bearing. I had mine go out at 100K and it was growling from 25mph and up.
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post #15 of 37 Old 03-16-2009, 08:45 AM Thread Starter
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Damn, now the rear bearing and pinion bearing has been mentioned

Is there any way to diagnose a bad rear wheel bearing? Or is it the same way as the front (jack up the tires and shake them to see if there is play)? What about diagnosing a bad pinion bearing?

As mentioned before, I've shaken the front tires and there appeared to be no movement. I haven't gotten the chance yet to swerve left and right to see if its louder/quieter.

The only thing I noticed was when making a slow sharp right turn I feel a crackling noise through the steering wheel. Perhaps this would be the drivers side (and right front as the dealership mentioned) front wheel bearing that is just starting to go.

I guess I also SHOULD mentioned that I went offroading in November and had the entire front end submerged in mud. So perhaps that would nail it down to a bad bearing in the front?
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