starts then dies then no start! - Dakota Durango Forum
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post #1 of 16 Old 01-04-2009, 09:31 PM Thread Starter
MadMike
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starts then dies then no start!

so my dad's 2000 dakota r/t just started up then while he was backing out of the driveway it died. now if you try to start it will turn over normal but not crank just like if someone had disabled the ignition. also the digital odo reads "no bus" now.

BTW
this has been a on going issue. the truck has a new battery and I replaced a cable that was damaged about a week ago.
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post #2 of 16 Old 01-04-2009, 09:47 PM
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Could be one of a few things. Either the BCM is freaking out and killing the ignition, the guage cluster took a shit(no bus), or the PCM took a shit.

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post #3 of 16 Old 01-04-2009, 09:48 PM Thread Starter
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alright just noticed that when turning the key to the on position there is no noise coming from the fuel pump like you usually would hear.
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post #4 of 16 Old 01-04-2009, 10:02 PM Thread Starter
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just to see if it would connect I hooked up his superchips tuner and it said it couldn't detect ignition on. also i checked the relay and its good.

is there anything at all this could be besides the pcm?
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post #5 of 16 Old 01-05-2009, 01:01 AM
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Might want to try swapping out the fuel pump relay with one of the other relays in the PDC under the hood.

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post #6 of 16 Old 01-05-2009, 01:23 AM
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Try unplugging the PCM harness and wating about 30 seconds, then plug it back in. If the truck starts up, its your pcm taking a dump. The "NO BUS" means there is no communication to the pcm. I just went through this myself.

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post #7 of 16 Old 01-05-2009, 03:01 AM
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Not sure how it works on the 5.9 PCM, but I've seen a few 4.7 trucks show 'NO BUS' when the crank sensor went bad.

Do try resetting the PCM first, it's free and you never know when some Bill Gates shit is gonna strike
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post #8 of 16 Old 01-05-2009, 11:26 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hskrRT View Post
Might want to try swapping out the fuel pump relay with one of the other relays in the PDC under the hood.
did that and the relay was good when I swapped it with the flashers relay. flashers worked but still no pump activity.

my dad emailed this to me to explain it a little more in depth.

Michael,
Could you post this on www.dakota-durango.com ....?

2000 Dodge Dakota 5.9L R/T Club Cab having starting & or charging problems. Initial & all start ups barely able to turn the starter over and resets the radio clock memory. Starter builds speed to normal and starts the engine but occasionally will not hold Idle and stalls. You can manually keep the engine running smoothly with the gas pedal and slowly bring it down to normal idle. Then the truck drives like normal. Initial hook-up of the digital charger shows the battery at 40 to 60 % charge. And 2 amp trickle charging the 2 1/2 year old Optima Red top battery fully takes 4 to 6 hours & seams to correct the problem for a day. Volt gauge in the dash indicates charging to be 14 - 14.5 Volts weather the battery has been charged or not. Disconnecting the positive lead from the battery terminal while running does not kill the engine. The truck is a daily driver but only for 15 minutes of stop & go to 45 mph driving to and from work with the lights on.
Battery check out bad and was replaced with a new Optima Red top Thursday. Truck started and ran fine until Sunday. Then started and drove 20 feet and died like the switch was turned off. When trying to restart engine turned over fine but would not start and "no bus" replaced the digital odometer reading on the dash. I also didn't hear the fuel pump running. Over the next few hours I tried it again several times with no change. Then checked the wiring connectors to the PCM by making sure they were not loose. Everything seemed OK, tried starting it again and it started fine. Pulled it back into the driveway and left it running while I went to get my cell phone. When I returned in a few seconds it had stopped running again but restarted fine. So I moved it back out to the street and parked it. Later I started it and drove it 15 min. to get gas and back with no problems. Any Ideas? I have not checked the alternator or the charge on the battery.

I am taking it to Big "O" Dodge for a diagnostic tomorrow....If it will make it there.
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post #9 of 16 Old 01-06-2009, 03:59 AM
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Might be a bad ground from the battery swap. Check to make sure all the terminals are tight, and that the ground wire going to the fender behind the battery is tight as well.

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post #10 of 16 Old 01-07-2009, 02:13 AM Thread Starter
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email from my dad

Michael,
I picked up the truck & they said it did show any codes & that then charging system was working fine. The truck drove fine back to work. Then I checked the codes by turning the the key on & off 3 times and it displayed a code p-0702. Then -------, Then p-done. I called the service assistant at the dealership and asked him to find out what that code is from the service tech. He said he would call me back when he found out. That was at 5:00. I'm betting he doesn't call me back. If you don't mind see if someone on the forums can tell us what it is. Wait a minute he just called and said they don't have a code p-0702. He said they have a 700 for the transmission controller & then it goes to 1100. He did say it had a stored code for a trans speed sensor but didn't know the code number. He went on to say the scan showed nothing for the no-bus or not starting. Go figure!.... See if you can find out anything when you can.
Thanks,
Dad
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post #11 of 16 Old 01-07-2009, 02:25 AM
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Is there a parasitic drain on the battery when the truck is off? Use a multimeter to test for draw from the battery post to terminal (remove the terminal, obviously).

Sounds like classic dead battery issues to me, be it a bad battery or one that's getting killed.
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post #12 of 16 Old 01-07-2009, 09:52 AM
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this sort of sounds like my problem, i went out and wiggled the wires on the computer on the pass. fender and it started right up.......wonder, bad/dirty connectors?


RIP 5.9L Magnum
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post #13 of 16 Old 01-07-2009, 11:03 AM
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Might want to check and see if all connectors are in their correct place. I dont mean switch around but every now and the one can get moved back and not get a complete connection. Also a little dialectric grease helps to keep out any moisture that may get in there and mess up a signal. Before using that get some contact cleaner, spray it out then add the grease.

Have fun, Drive safe and watch for motorcycles.

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post #14 of 16 Old 01-14-2009, 10:09 AM
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If you are not using the factory programmed key or the chip inside the key goes bad won't your engine start but die when you try to drive it? After so many tries would it then lock out the ignition? Just wondering. What year did the programmed keys come out?
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post #15 of 16 Old 01-14-2009, 03:23 PM
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2001 was the first year for the SKIM key you are refering to. He has a'00.

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