[HOW-TO][HVAC][Gen III Dakota][Gen I Durango] Blower Resistor Diagnosis/Replacement - Page 5 - Dodge Durango Forum and Dodge Dakota Forums
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post #61 of Old 03-09-2011, 02:31 AM Thread Starter
Silver&Blue4x4
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Originally Posted by Mr.N View Post
Still holding up?
Yes.

2004 Dakota Quad Cab / 4.7L V8 / K&N CAI / Fastman TB / Spintech Exhaust
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post #62 of Old 03-11-2011, 12:36 AM
MarcB
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Third resistor gone bad, this time new resisitor and harness, question, can I just crimp new splice or do I need to solder?
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post #63 of Old 04-02-2011, 04:38 PM
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does anyone have the part number for the harness?
Is it a dealer only item--cant find the "harness" on rockauto.

this time the 2nd wire melted instead of taking out the resistor.

2001 Dakota SLT, 4x4, 4.7, Midnight Blue, 16s
2011 Durango, AWD, 3.6, Charcoal, 20s
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post #64 of Old 04-13-2011, 02:27 AM
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The part number is 5017124ac. Where does the other end of the wire harness go? Do you just splice and crimp or do you have to take apart the heater housing?
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post #65 of Old 04-14-2011, 07:10 PM
okey0
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i think you just cut the old one off and splice the new one in place.

i'd sure like to know the root cause of this instead of replacing the resistor or the harness every 6 mos to a year.

2001 Dakota SLT, 4x4, 4.7, Midnight Blue, 16s
2011 Durango, AWD, 3.6, Charcoal, 20s
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post #66 of Old 04-19-2011, 09:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silver&Blue4x4 View Post
Since this question, or variations of it, comes up quite often I thought I’d write a thorough how-to which can be linked to or (hopefully) found in a search.


SYMPTOM:

Your heating & air conditioner blower motor suddenly stops working, only works on certain speeds, or just seems to not blow as hard as it used to.

Applies to (as far as I know):
2001 – 2007 Durango
2001 – 2004 Dakota


SOLUTION:

99.9% of the time your blower motor resistor block has gone bad. The resistor block is part of the ground path of the blower motor circuit, which in conjunction with the fan speed selector switch controls the speed of the fan by varying the amount of resistors in the electrical path (more resistors = slower speed, fewer resistors = higher speed). This is an easy fix and the new part costs less than $20. If you’re like me and would like to know for sure, read ahead to the “Troubleshooting” section. If you want to play the percentages and just go ahead and change it, skip ahead to the “Removal & Replacement” section.


TROUBLESHOOTING:

In order to troubleshoot the resistor block it will be easiest if it is removed from the truck (see Removal and Installation in post #2). Use the following diagram for this procedure.
I have a huge problem with my motor resistor ever since and i always end up searching for a good mechanic. Good thing you have shared this one mate, really a big help. Thanks.
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post #67 of Old 05-16-2011, 03:44 PM
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Resistor Connector Assembly

Hi All, Great post and I wanted to contribute what I gained from this post.

I just bought a used 2002 Durango SLT+ last month and it had a few issues that needed to be fixed and one of these was I did not have the high speed setting on the front blower motor.

I went to the pull-your-self junk yard and got a a/c control head unit off a 2003 and it had a different part number than my 2002 had but they looked identical. Thinking that the switch was bad on the high setting I bought it for $50.00 came home and put it in and the a/c and rear defroster lights on the control panel would flash on and off for some reason due to wrong part number I assume. However I was able to check the fan speeds with it and it was infact the same problem. High speed did not work again with the new unit installed so I replaced the unit back to the original one and fixed the lights not flashing.

So I pulled the resistor out and could not seperate it from the wire harness without breaking the resistor to do so. As I found the last pin on the resistor was fried and then plug was melted also badly.

So I went to the dealership here in Barrie, Canada and bought the resistor wire harness kit $113 CAD and as mentioned here it came with about 20 wires in it. 5 heat shrink insulators and the black clip needed.

The original part number was 5017124AA which isn't the one I got as it has been replaced with 5017124AC. It is different from the original in that it has a locking clip on the end and also has an insulator rubber gasket to lock the wires in place. I could not find a guide to put it together so I took photos as I went along and will post them here for those who may need the help as I did.

I attached 3 photos and sorry for the quality but the phone didn't take the best pictures but they are good enough for what you will need.

The first photo is the plug still in the truck with the resistor removed and the black wire was the one that was burned badly where it entered the connector and there was no insulation left on the wire where it entered the clip. I cut off the clip about 1 inch from the connector so I could remember the wire gauges / colors for the reasembly.
So now you have a fried clip in your hand and 5 cut off wires in your truck doing nothing. On to the new clip harness.

In the 3rd photo you will see the new clip and it has a small black clip on the end where the wires go into it. You have to remove this clip but don't break it off. If you are looking at the photo you need a very small screw driver i.e. for small electronics and there are 4 clips holding it on. Looking at the photo put your screw driver on the opposite side of were the wires are and on the long flat part 2 per side un pry the clips by pushing the screw driver in on top of the peg holding the clip on and lift upwards gently and you will get one side of then do the same for the other. Once this is done you will see a white rubber gasket with 5 holes in it. Pry this out with your screw driver being careful not to tear it. Once the gasket is out you have 3 pieces of your soon to be assembled clip. As my fellow Canuk wrote here you need to push the 5 new wires into the connector. You need 2 green and 3 purple. THe new wires have silver locking connectors on them. From the (wire side) of the connector insert the metal end of the wire in to the connector and it will click in place and lock. You will notice on the new wires in the kit they have a little barb that sticks down (towards center) of the silver connector. I put these all to the middle of the plug if you know what I mean and not to the outside. If this matters or not I am not sure but it locked for me this way. If it does not lock then try to flip the wire upside down and see if it locks in place. So here is the order.

Pin 1 - Green wire
Pin 2 - Green wire
Pin 3 - Purple wire
Pin 4 - Purple wire
Pin 5 - Purple wire

You should now have a black clip with 5 wires locked in place hanging out of it with the wires in that order.

Now for the rubber gasket. Feed the 5 wires in order onto the spliced end of the new wires you just put in to the clip so that they are not crossed over or you will not be able to put the gasket back into the clip as in the 2nd picture. Once this is done slide the gasket back into the new clip and push it in place. If you can't get it to seat exactly right the black end clip will lock it in when you reinstall it. Now feed the wires through the locking black clip and lock it back onto the rest of the main clip part and you will see in picture 3 what it will look like when its finished.

So now you have an assembled resistor plug harness ready for the install.

Back to the truck now I spliced the 5 wires in the truck harness about 3/4 inch exposing the wires. I spliced the new wires on the new harness the same 3/4 inch. Place your heat shrink tube on the first wire and let it slide to down out of the way. I spread the wires a bit and twisted them together like so. Make sure they can't pull apart (gently pull on the new connection) before you shrink tube it.

=====---- ----=====

(use your imagination here as I didn't take a photo of it.)
Put the shrink tubing over the newly connected wires and heat shrink with heat gun or use a lighter which is what I used. Be carefull not to melt the wires when doing this. Hold the flame about 1 inch below the shrink tube will shrink it without burning the wires. Rotate the wires around to get an even seal. Now that wire is done. Repeat this step for the other 4 wires but don't forget the shrink tubing for each.

Once this is done you should re-install the new Resistor to the truck as shown in the previous posts to the truck. This is easier to do so there are not wire harness in your way trying to screw in those painful 2x 8mm screws back in place! It was infact the hardest part of the whole process. Once the new resistor is in place clip your newly built wire harness on to it and then test your new fan speeds on the truck. They will all work 100% now.

Word of warning though. You must change your blower motor IMHO also which is 99% of the time what the problem is or you will blow the harness and resistor again shortly after if you do not. Then it would be another $140 for a new harness and resistor anyways so spend the $100 bucks and order a new blower motor on ebay which is what I did.

All in all.

Part# 506157AA - Resistor $15.26 CAD From the dealership
Part# 5017124AC - Resistor wire harness kit $116.39 CAD From the dealership

Blower motor which I got on ebay - $85.00 USD delivered to Canada.

http://cgi.ebay.ca/Dodge-Dakota-Pick...item1e6336c504

Total repair was about $216.00 CAD.

With those 3 you now have the piece of mind of not having a fire in your truck with your family in it. Good insurance if you ask me. Will it happen again? Probably in about 100,000miles or 160,000kms but you will be a pro at repairing it and you won't have to do it in 3-6 months if you don't change the blower motor also.

Anyways I wanted to contribute my 2 cents and this is a great post hope it helped a little bit.

Tombs
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG00113-20110514-1215.jpg (432.8 KB, 150 views)
File Type: jpg IMG00119-20110514-1229.jpg (422.4 KB, 139 views)
File Type: jpg IMG00124-20110514-1233.jpg (496.7 KB, 151 views)

Last edited by TombFate; 05-16-2011 at 03:53 PM. Reason: Content
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post #68 of Old 05-26-2011, 10:30 PM
futurefd
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maybe i missed this in the thread, or maybe its a diff problem. I replaced the resistor and harness, and they both melted again! replaced the resistor and motor and it seems as thought the plug and the resistor are getting awfuly hot, i am afraid to leave it plugged in. how hot have you guys seen them get.... i can hold it between my fingers but not for long i mean it is hot under there. new fan, new resistor. the old resistor had burnt on number 2 same with the original. could it be a bad ground throwing the amps up if so how to find it...thanks for the help! need to get it running too damn hot in there for the 4 hours i drive every day!
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post #69 of Old 06-16-2011, 02:18 PM
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Anyone who needs a new resistor and wiring harness, here's a link where I got mine for $63 for both. A great deal as long as it lasts...

Amazon Amazon
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post #70 of Old 07-15-2011, 04:11 AM
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My thanks to Silver&Blue4x4 and everyone else on this thread.

Wife's 2005 Durango Limited front blower started failing with 122K miles on it. It has the Automatic Temperature Control (ATC) version, so the symtoms were slightly different than the Manual Temperature Control unit (MTC) most discussed here. Fan top speed seemed slower but was adjustable, with a few times not running at all until it cooled off. For this year model and upgrade, the resistor block is called a "Blower Motor Power-Module", has 2 plugs (1 with 2 wires, 1 with 3 wires) and works like a "variable resistor". The meter was only helpful when comparing with a known good unit, as I found no reference. The Service Manual says "can be diagnosed using a scan tool", but I don't have, Autozones can't, and I won't pay dealer $100 to have it done. My dealer had the 2 plug kit for replacing the harness ends for my effectivity @ around $32. I removed the Module and found no evidence or overheating or burning on either side. The removed blower motor assy had no shaft wobble and spun freely, so carried with to parts dept. to compare and determined it was good. Was prepared to puchase all needed parts, but changed only the Module, using DC4 (dielectric) on all connections. Works like a charm. Just a hint for ya'll, get an 8mm 6-point shallow "Universal" socket if changing the motor. The forward right hand screw has little or no clearance. Also if not in a hurry, check out www.am-autoparts for what apears fair prices and some harnesses, as it applies to this topic.


Last edited by frodoz737; 07-15-2011 at 07:28 AM.
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post #71 of Old 07-23-2011, 06:12 PM
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Ok, here's what I think is happening. BTW, I'm in the process of replacing the resistor and harness for the third time (2004 Dakota)

The in vehicle orientation of the resistor pack has the connector facing downward. I think what is happening is that after running the AC, condensation builds up in the ducting which collects at the resistor pack. Moisture is making its way between the resistor pack terminals and the housing eventually finding its way into the connector. This moisture then causes corrosion at the connector pins which slowly raises the resistance at the terminals.

While an increase in the circuit resistance will result in an overall reduction of current (and power) delivered to the blower motor, what happens is that you get a localized increase in power dissipation at the connector. This is due to a voltage drop across the poor connection.

So while the resistors in the pack are designed to dissipate large amounts of power, the terminals in the connector are not. This is why we are seeing burned wires & connectors.

This type of failure is cumulative and slow to mature. This could explain why the fault may not manifest itself until the winter months.

This is easily confirmed. How many of you have noticed corroded terminals on the connector side of the resistor pack? Mine certainly are. Corrosion in the wire harness connector would also explain early failures when only the resistor pack is changed.

The solution is to find a way to seal the resistor pack (I don't think this is possible) or find a way to protect the connector from water intrusion. I'm going to try the second solution and use some dielectric grease in the connector for corrosion protection.
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post #72 of Old 07-25-2011, 02:54 AM Thread Starter
Silver&Blue4x4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frodoz737 View Post

My thanks to Silver&Blue4x4 and everyone else on this thread.
No problem, glad to help!

Quote:
Originally Posted by emfb View Post
The in vehicle orientation of the resistor pack has the connector facing downward. I think what is happening is that after running the AC, condensation builds up in the ducting which collects at the resistor pack. Moisture is making its way between the resistor pack terminals and the housing eventually finding its way into the connector. This moisture then causes corrosion at the connector pins which slowly raises the resistance at the terminals.
Interesting theory but it doesn't account for all the people (myself included) who have experienced resistor failure with no noticeable damage/corrosion/melting of the connector pins. The first time it happened to me I inspected the connector pretty closely and found no damage. When I used a meter to check the resistor pack I found no continuity where there should have been an electrical path which told me the resistor pack had failed internally. Regardless, I could be wrong. Let us know how the dielectric grease works out.

-Ryan

2004 Dakota Quad Cab / 4.7L V8 / K&N CAI / Fastman TB / Spintech Exhaust
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post #73 of Old 08-05-2011, 01:19 AM
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saved me $

thanks for the great thread, with pics, great, just bought th truck at auction and thought i was going to have to spend $$$$,
why does the resistor keep going, 2 week later and 2nd wire is burnt, resistor is still good
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post #74 of Old 08-14-2011, 03:58 PM
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Well, one month to the day after replacing the module (resistor) and the front blower is out again, so under the dash I go.

Thank ya'll for this post though, at least I know where I'm going with it this time.

Last edited by frodoz737; 08-14-2011 at 04:24 PM.
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post #75 of Old 08-14-2011, 04:35 PM
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Opps...2 pin connector was not snapped in all the way. Hate it when that happens.

Here's my contribution, the wiring diagrams for 2005 Durango ATC and MTC.

img018.jpg

img019.jpg
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