Weird PCM Problem - Dakota Durango Forum
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post #1 of 18 Old 07-24-2008, 07:34 PM Thread Starter
Dako85
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Weird PCM Problem

Hi guys, I'm new to the message board and it looks awesome!
My truck pulled the dreaded "no bus" BS and its been doing it for quite some time now. I have had it off the road for a few months now and I really need to get it back running. It will get the no bus code and it wont start, I can get it to come back to life by unplugging and plugging back in the PCM. Sometimes it takes a few tries. I cleaned up all the grounds that I could find under the hood and so far no better. I replaced the battery, no better. Once I do get it to fire up, I notice that the lights seem to flicker a bit, interior and outside lights. The other problem is, when it does fire up it seems to be in "limp mode" this happened after unplugging and inspecting sensors. I tried to "reset" it by unplugging the negative battery cable but still in limp mode. Is there a sensor I should check? maybe I didn't plug it back in? I did have a buddy helping me for a bit and maybe one got missed. Thanks in advance guys! oh and the truck is a 2001 Dak sport auto 3.9L v6. I tried posting this in the troubleshooting forum too but figured there may be more pcm guru's in here.
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post #2 of 18 Old 07-24-2008, 07:45 PM
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a friend of mine at the dodge dealership was tellin me about this, the pin connectors comin loose and causing problems, he normally jsut cleaned them up or something and got them to keep a good connection
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post #3 of 18 Old 07-24-2008, 08:00 PM Thread Starter
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thanks I'll take that into consideration too. would the lights flickering have anything to do with it? bad ground somewhere that may be hidden?
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post #4 of 18 Old 07-24-2008, 09:09 PM
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Check the ground in the drivers kick panel under the dash! That can come loose and cause the No-Bus code. Also check the MAP sensor. This seems to be the main culprit for the limp-mode issues. If you have a multi-meter make sure you are getting 5V at the sensor by putting your test leads in the 2 outside pins of the 3-pin connector with the key "on" engine NOT running. Then, with the key "on" and the engine NOT running, connect one end you your meter to the battery negative and the other end to the middle pin and make sure it's close to 5V (Should be around 4.8V or so)

- Troy

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post #5 of 18 Old 07-25-2008, 03:11 AM
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Yo

trust me, check the crank sensor on the bell housing that connects to the distributor!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !

Put your money where your mouth is " BITCH "

2003 Durango R/T, SCT tuned by Hemifever, K&N cold air, upgrades coming soon!
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post #6 of 18 Old 07-25-2008, 08:01 PM Thread Starter
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I replaced the crank sensor, no luck
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post #7 of 18 Old 07-26-2008, 05:10 PM Thread Starter
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Anyone have any other ideas? I'm open to anything because I dont have the $$$ to get it fixed at the dealer. makes my head hurt to think about how much they could charge me!
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post #8 of 18 Old 07-26-2008, 05:33 PM Thread Starter
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Ok I got some codes

I pulled the codes from the cel and here's what I got:
P0713
P0753
P1763
P0113

All are sensors with too high of voltage! How the heck do I fix that!?
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post #9 of 18 Old 07-27-2008, 06:00 AM Thread Starter
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this is what the codes mean

P0713 (M) Trans Temp Sensor Voltage Too High Voltage greater than 3.76 volts (4-speed auto. Trans. Only).
P0753 (M) Transmission 3-4 Shift Soleniod/Transmission Relay Circuits An open or shorted circuit detected in the overdrive solenoid control circuit or trans relay circuit in JTEC RE transmissions . Was MIL code 45.
P1763 (M) Governor Pressure Sensor Volts Too High Voltage greater than 4.89 volts. (4-speed auto. Trans. Only)
P0113 (M) Intake Air Temp Sensor Voltage High Intake air (charge) temperature sensor input above the maximum acceptable voltage.
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post #10 of 18 Old 07-28-2008, 02:19 AM
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I would start with the P0753. Because it is the only one that doesn't say anything about the voltage being too high. It specifically says "Open" or "Shorted". SO maybe that sensor is bad and screwing with the rest?

Other than that I have no friggin clue man. Other than your PCM is shot.

- Troy

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Kenne Bell Supercharger, Alchohol Injection, SCT Pro-Racer Package, 50# CPR Injectors, Walbro 255LPH Fuel Pump, Ported 50mm TB, JBA Shorty Headers, Flowmaster 40, 3-Inch Exhaust, MOPAR M1 Manifold, Street Scene Mirrors, 20" Chrome XS Rims, GY HP Ultra Plus's, DynoJet Wideband, MSD 6A, MSD Coil, Hotchkis TVS, Bilstein shocks, Cervini's S.S. Ram-Air Hood, Sir-Michael's Roll Pan, Stillen Front Bumper, Diamond Headlights/Corners, Custom Leather Door Panel pads, 180 Degree T-Stat, Taylor Wires, Optima Yellow Top, and More.
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post #11 of 18 Old 07-28-2008, 06:10 AM Thread Starter
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thanks

Thanks a ton for the reply! Yeah that sounds like a good plan to me, do you know where that relay might be? I checked the obvious fuse box under the hood and just pulled the transmission relay and switched it with the one for the fog lights (same relay) and the lights still worked. The truck is in limp-mode now, but runs great for some odd reason. So would there be a relay on the tranny? Something may be unplugged too, thats my next mission. I have a feeling though that I will be in the wanted section of the forum looking for a pcm
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post #12 of 18 Old 08-07-2008, 06:24 AM
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Okay so after looking at an FSM for awhile and a little bit of research i believe that it can be a few different problems. The main ones pointed out in the FSM were

1. Bad governor pressure solenoid
2. Bad governor pressure sensor
3. Or bad PCM/TCM

Which of the things listed below would you say best describes the symptoms that are occuring with your tranny, from there i can give you a list of the possible culprits:



1. SHIFTS DELAYED OR
ERRATIC (SHIFTS ALSO
HARSH AT TIMES)
.

2. NO REVERSE (D RANGES
OK)


3. HAS FIRST/REVERSE
ONLY (NO 1-2 OR 2-3
UPSHIFT)


4. MOVES IN 2ND OR 3RD
GEAR, ABRUPTLY
DOWNSHIFTS TO LOW


5. NO LOW GEAR (MOVES
IN 2ND OR 3RD GEAR
ONLY)


6. NO KICKDOWN OR
NORMAL DOWNSHIFT
STUCK IN LOW GEAR
(WILL NOT UPSHIFT)

7. Or is the tranny just
stuck in limp mode (3rd gear)
and it won't come out.



Basically from all of the reading that Im doing i believe that like I stated before there is either a problem with one or more of the three things that I listed above. Or there is a problem with the eletrical signals going through the wires from the PCM to the tranny sensors. So to start off do a thorough check of all of the wires and connectors and make sure they are all clean and all of the wires and pins are intact. After that you would have to dive deeper into the testing of each of these individual components, we need to make sure that each of the sensors and solenoids are working properly and are clean. And if they are working properly we need to find out if the PCM is sending the signal out to the sensors and the signal is getting to these sensors from the PCM. If we can't figure out anything from there it might be time to bring it to the dealer and see what they have to say, you might even want to do that anyways and see what they have to say and what they think is wrong. From looking at this FSM it looks like there is a way to check all of these various sensors without tearing apart the tranny. There are various ports around the outside of the tranny were you can check the pressue to see if they are working right. But they require more than just your basic tools, probably something the dealer would have and could run tests with.



here are a few of the sensors that are in the tranny, the governor pressure solenoid and the governor pressure sensor are the ones that could cause this, along with a bad PCM.

http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/...id_s/10538.htm

Since you are having so many problems at the same time it kinda makes me lean towards the bad PCM, but they could be compound problems were one is causing all of the others, just like Boomin said. Hopefully we can get this figured out and prevent you from getting raped by the dealer, because they will charge you 300+ just to change the solenoid or sensor.

My truck is cool.


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post #13 of 18 Old 08-08-2008, 07:07 PM Thread Starter
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wow thanks a ton! The other day the thing went into no bus mode and basically told me to crap in my had and would not start. I knew that I could fire the thing up if I unplug the pcm and plug it back in but this time it would only fire up for a minute and shut back off. While messing with the plugs, I found the ground wires that come off of the harness that plugs into the pcm closest to the cab. The grounds were completely loose! Once I made sure they were tight, the truck fired right up and I have probably put 200 miles on it since and never got a no bus code again. I assume that ground is pretty important. As far as the transmission goes, when I put it in drive, it will start out in 3rd gear and stay there, no downshift or overdrive. I can shift the thing manually (1st, 2nd, 3rd, no overdrive) I can downshift it into second but not first. In order for me to get into first gear again, I have to go to N first or right from P. If I go from D. to 1rst, it will still start in second. Reverse works fine. Its weird because this was never going on while we were trying to diagnose the "no bus" issue, everything in the transmission still worked fine. I have no idea if anything is related but, just yesterday I needed to defog my windows and all of a sudden my blower motor isn't working and it was working a couple days ago. Thanks again for working with me so much on this one! I cant wait to get the thing up and running right!
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post #14 of 18 Old 08-08-2008, 08:50 PM
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Sprinkle holy water on it and then BURN IT!! It's possessed!!

lol J/K Hope you get it all figured out.

- Troy

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post #15 of 18 Old 08-08-2008, 09:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dako85 View Post
wow thanks a ton! The other day the thing went into no bus mode and basically told me to crap in my had and would not start. I knew that I could fire the thing up if I unplug the pcm and plug it back in but this time it would only fire up for a minute and shut back off. While messing with the plugs, I found the ground wires that come off of the harness that plugs into the pcm closest to the cab. The grounds were completely loose! Once I made sure they were tight, the truck fired right up and I have probably put 200 miles on it since and never got a no bus code again. I assume that ground is pretty important. As far as the transmission goes, when I put it in drive, it will start out in 3rd gear and stay there, no downshift or overdrive. I can shift the thing manually (1st, 2nd, 3rd, no overdrive) I can downshift it into second but not first. In order for me to get into first gear again, I have to go to N first or right from P. If I go from D. to 1rst, it will still start in second. Reverse works fine. Its weird because this was never going on while we were trying to diagnose the "no bus" issue, everything in the transmission still worked fine. I have no idea if anything is related but, just yesterday I needed to defog my windows and all of a sudden my blower motor isn't working and it was working a couple days ago. Thanks again for working with me so much on this one! I cant wait to get the thing up and running right!

Okay so know i would reset the computer and drive it until the code comes back up and pull it and see what it is know. I've got a feeling that it is a problem with the governor pressure solenoid now. Also before you do that go underneath the truck and check the plug that goes into the tranny and see if it is all good and clean and connected. I'm pretty sure you tranny is in limp mode and something is causing it to be like that and those solenoids are pretty big part int he shifting of the truck, they tell it when it is okay to shift. And if they aren't working it won't shift.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Boomin5POINT9 View Post
Sprinkle holy water on it and then BURN IT!! It's possessed!!

lol J/K Hope you get it all figured out.

Good idea get some of that stuff and give it to Bondslayer too.

My truck is cool.


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