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5.2L/5.9L/6.7L Engines Questions regarding the 5.2L/5.9L/6.7L V8 Engines

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Old 04-01-2008, 05:22 AM
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Parts list for 3.9-5.9 swap

just like the title says i wanna know what im gonna need to swap from a 3.9to a 5.9. obv i need the motor but im not sure what else computer/wiring harness/trans/rearend/motor mounts. figured i should see what i need so i can start getting things together. sorry if this has been asked/answered before didnt think to search til now and i already hav all this typed it would be a waste to delete it thanks!
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Old 04-01-2008, 06:42 AM
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for a complete swap of need, 360, 5.9 matching year ecu, engine harness, 46re, 9 1/4 rear end, basically what a r/t has, now if ya just wanna swap the motor then the all ya need is a 5.9, 5.9 ecu matching the yr of your dak, and engine harness. the 42re and 44re will work but over time and abuse theyll give out depending on the amount of abuse and power the motor is producing is how long theyll last.
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Old 04-01-2008, 08:49 AM
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You'll also need a V8 fan shroud if you're using the clutch fan... The V6 one is too big. And even if you were going with a Viper electric fan, I'ld get the V8 shroud.... looks a lot cleaner.

You don't really need a 9.25 rear end, an 8.25 would work. If you keep the 8.25 you might need a slip yoke so you'll driveshaft will go into the transmission or if you swap the rear end, you'll just need another driveshaft.
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Old 04-01-2008, 03:54 PM
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Nothing wrong with a 42re/rh behind a 360. Don't let people fool you, I have one, I beat the shit out of it 95% of the time. It has held up for 2 years so far, knock on wood.
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Old 04-01-2008, 05:40 PM
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Karas3434 Karas3434 is offline
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thanks guys now i guess i gotta start looking for these parts now!
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Old 04-01-2008, 06:09 PM
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Been down this road already - search for my 3.9 to 5.9 swap thread, it has EVERYTHING you need to know.

You need the engine from anything, and a PCM from a truck which is the same year as yours. That's extremely important. Engine doesn't care what it's in - as long as it's relatively new and low miles, you don't have to worry about compatability. If it's from a Ram, you'll need a Dakota oil pan.

That's IT.

42RE is fine behind the 5.9. A lot of people on this board talk about things that they have no experience with - they are just talking shit. Let them talk. Don't buy a new transmission. Get yourself a big trans cooler and don't worry about it. As the other guy said, I've had my 5.9 behind my 42RE for almost 40,000 miles and I race every weekend and street race at least once almost every day, and it hasn't shown any signs of starting to slip.

A few things you will need to modify:

-Your wiring harness. You will either need to get a harness for the 5.9, or modify your 3.9. IIRC, one of the sensors needs to be lengthened, and you need to wire up 2 injectors (easy as pie).

-Radiator hoses and heater hoses. They will be too short. Either get the right hoses, or get some clamps and extensions and extend them. I just extended what I had, and it's worked perfectly

-Your fan shroud. You definitely don't need a new one - If you look down into your engine compartment, you'll see the top of your fan shroud, then a big circle sticking out a few inches towards your engine. Take a sawzall and lop off that circle, and the 5.9 fits perfectly.

-One of your motor mounts. I forget which side it was, but if you use the mounts from your 3.9 (do it, save money), you will have to grind down a little bit off of one of the corners. You won't be able to bolt it to the engine - the corner of the mount will hit the block ever so slightly. Just grind it down until it fits like a glove.


Fuck the 9.25 rear end - Unless you plan on having a power adder, your 5.9 won't have enough torque to come anywhere close to harming your 8.25. If you're nuts like me, and decide to put 4.56's in the rear end, you aren't going to be able to keep your tires planted anyway

You don't need a new slip yoke. Not sure where that one came from or why the hell he said it. The back of your engine will be in the same spot as your 3.9, it will just come a few inches farther forward in the front where the 2 extra cylinders are. Thus, your transmission stays in the exact same location, and your slip yoke will rest in the same fine position as it was.

If for some reason, you feel the need to get a new transmission that is a different length then your 42RE (I don't know the dimensions, so if the 44 or 46 are shorter), then you will either need a new driveshaft or a longer slip yoke. That would be a huge problem - TRUST me, I learned that lesson in my Mustang. You need the slip yoke to slide fully onto the output shaft of your transmission. It needs to have a certain amount of that yoke on the output shaft, otherwise it doesn't function properly. There's a possiblity of the teeth on the gears stripping, but the bigger worry is rotation of the driveshaft. The U-joint is designed to allow the driveshaft and output shaft to rotate at different angles.. but it's still precise. If the driveshaft end orbits out of its axis of symmetry, your output shaft orbits as well, and so do the internals of your trans.. tears up the inside, governor bore hogs out the case, etc, and you can kiss your brand new transmission goodbye.

My advice: Keep your 42RE, get your hands on a low miles 5.9 out of a Dakota or a Ram, get yourself a PCM from a Ram of the same year as your truck (they have better PCMs then the Dakotas), drop it all in and fire it up. It's about as easy as engine swaps get. If you have any questions, drop me a PM and i'll help you.

Here's my V8. Take note of the way I fixed the radiator hoses and heater hoses, as well as the fan shroud modification.





You're going to be a happy camper the first time you drive your truck after the swap LOL. Man, that was a good day.

More pics, just because I love my cars. Here's my Mustang. She's sold now, unfortunately. I built that bitch from the ground up. Engine, trans, interior, body, suspension, EVERYTHING. Took me an entire summer, but it was worth it. Then school rolled up and said 'hey pay us tuition' so I had to sell her







And, just for shits and giggles, here's a picture of what my slip yoke looked like before my Uncle looked at it and informed me that it would be extremely bad to try and drive a car with any amount of power using that setup LOL. Hey man, I'm human too. Everyone makes mistakes - learn from them!



^^That's what you DONT want it to look like. Here's how I fixed the situation - I'd recommend that if you have the same problem, you get one of these bitches:



Lightweight aluminum racing driveshaft. Brand new U-joints and slip yoke, Custom made to the exact length I needed and balanced perfectly. Doesn't get better then that.
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2002 Dodge Dakota Club Cab
5.9L V8

MODS:
K&N CAI
Flowmaster Exhaust
180* Thermostat
4.56 Gears
B&M Trans Cooler

Next Mods (In order)
Headers/Dual exhaust
Posi
Superchips
Throttle Body

Last edited by red9535; 04-01-2008 at 06:24 PM.
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Old 04-01-2008, 07:26 PM
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....
where you been hiding? do a search of threads on my name
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Old 04-01-2008, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by addicted2blue00 View Post
where you been hiding? do a search of threads on my name
Been busy with school and shit. Once I got the Mustang last summer I stopped working on the truck as much, and haven't really frequented this forum since. However, racing season is around the corner and you'll be hearing from me a lot more from now on
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2002 Dodge Dakota Club Cab
5.9L V8

MODS:
K&N CAI
Flowmaster Exhaust
180* Thermostat
4.56 Gears
B&M Trans Cooler

Next Mods (In order)
Headers/Dual exhaust
Posi
Superchips
Throttle Body
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Old 04-01-2008, 11:05 PM
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Karas3434 Karas3434 is offline
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as far as engine acc... like alternator/starter/etc they will all bolt right up to the 5.9?
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Old 04-02-2008, 12:37 AM
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as far as engine acc... like alternator/starter/etc they will all bolt right up to the 5.9?
Yes. Everything you have will bolt up perfectly.
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2002 Dodge Dakota Club Cab
5.9L V8

MODS:
K&N CAI
Flowmaster Exhaust
180* Thermostat
4.56 Gears
B&M Trans Cooler

Next Mods (In order)
Headers/Dual exhaust
Posi
Superchips
Throttle Body
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Old 04-02-2008, 03:20 PM
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Karas3434 Karas3434 is offline
lots of mods & no money

 
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as far as the motor goes what yr models hav a compatible engine that will work. i know 97-03 dakotas and 98-02? durangos what about rams? anything else?
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Old 04-03-2008, 01:47 AM
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as far as the motor goes what yr models hav a compatible engine that will work. i know 97-03 dakotas and 98-02? durangos what about rams? anything else?
5.9 = 5.9. Only significant difference is the oil pan. As long as it has >80K miles, it will be out of something new enough that everything will work. Durango PCM won't work.

Your ABS will also never work again after the swap. You don't need it, though. I was worried about it for a while after I did mine - but I've been in several situations where I needed to rapidly decelerate on the highway, and I drove for an entire rough Michigan winter, and never even noticed the difference.
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2002 Dodge Dakota Club Cab
5.9L V8

MODS:
K&N CAI
Flowmaster Exhaust
180* Thermostat
4.56 Gears
B&M Trans Cooler

Next Mods (In order)
Headers/Dual exhaust
Posi
Superchips
Throttle Body
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  #13  
Old 04-03-2008, 06:33 AM
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Originally Posted by red9535 View Post
Been busy with school and shit. Once I got the Mustang last summer I stopped working on the truck as much, and haven't really frequented this forum since. However, racing season is around the corner and you'll be hearing from me a lot more from now on
good to see ya comin back, heres a question for ya may like, how long did it take you to line up the tranny and engine along with the motor mounts? lol can you tell any differenice in motor temp?
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Old 04-03-2008, 06:58 AM
red9535 red9535 is offline
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good to see ya comin back, heres a question for ya may like, how long did it take you to line up the tranny and engine along with the motor mounts? lol can you tell any differenice in motor temp?
Once I trimmed the fan shroud, it was still a squeeze - you can't drop the engine straight in. You have to drop it straight down, then once you clear everything above the firewall you have to send it back a couple inches towards the tranny.

My recommended order of attack:

-Drop the engine down
-Line up the motor mounts first. It's 1 bolt on each that goes straight through - line those up, put the bolts through, and bolt it up. Your engine is now in place. LEAVE IT HOOKED UP TO THE PICKER
-Adjust your chains or balancer so you can tilt the engine (from firewall to radiator, not from side to side) by lifting and lowering your picker.
-I hope you have your transmission jacked up. If not, get it jacked up.
-Using a combination of raising and lowering the rear of the engine, and raising/lowering the transmission, line them up. (again, this is all assuming you left your trans mount bolted up and just held the trans relatively in place while you pulled the engine)

This is what I like to call the "angle of dangle", and it can sometimes be a huge pain in the ass. It's one of my least favorite parts about swapping an engine. On the dakota swap, it took me about 20 minutes. On my Mustang, it took me an entire afternoon and I was PISSED about it lol.

Tip - Have someone help you. It's a 2 person job really - doing it yourself is a lot harder. Have someone watch your engine/transmission mating area while you raise or lower the rear tilt of the engine. Once it's close, adjust the trans if necessary. They will line up eventually. Eventually you're going to have to try to get a bolt through there - it probably won't ever look perfect, but once one's in, the rest is pie.

Then, of course, bolt your flex plate up to your torque converter. Once you're sure that it's connected properly, check again. Once you're double sure, get a wrench on your crank pulley and turn your engine over, and watch the converter. If it spins with your engine's rotating assembly, and you're sure all your bolts are tight, then you can go ahead and put your starter on.

Another tip - don't get mad at her. Your truck has feelings too - if you get upset and yell at her, she won't be nice to you.

As far as engine temp - I'm not sure exactly what you're asking. As long as your cooling system (radiator, hoses) worked before, and the water pump on your new engine is good, then you won't have any problems. Put a new thermostat in now while it's convenient - I put a brand new 180* thermostat in my engine before I even dropped it in.

Also, I forgot to mention before - I DID do a search on threads for your name. Nice engine you've put together for yourself! I'm excited for you - there's nothing quite like the feeling of driving her for the first time after all that work. You won't be disappointed - I PROMISE. Just watch that happy pedal. First time I took my 5.9 out after driving the 3.9 and being accustomed to the pressure needed to accelerate, I couldn't TOUCH the gas in drive or reverse without breaking my tires loose. It was awesome

As I said to this man - any further questions, feel free to ask and I'll do my best to answer! I hope I don't sound like I'm just stroking my own dick here and being a jerk - just trying to help. I've been down this road and I'm confident that I know what I'm talking about, and I have good advice that can be useful, so don't hesitate to ask for help if something goes awry, OK?


Edit: Something I forgot to mention. Make sure that the studs on your torque converter and the holes on your flex plate are going to line up BEFORE you try and throw this all together. Otherwise it will never go together, and you risk damage to your converter or your flex plate. On my Mustang, I forgot this detail in excitement of finally putting the engine in, and I spent several hours frustrated, balancing a transmission and an engine by myself, trying to figure out why my engine and transmission wouldn't go together. I forced a bolt through and realized the whole thing was seized up, had to pull the engine and start over from square 1. Details, my friend.
__________________

2002 Dodge Dakota Club Cab
5.9L V8

MODS:
K&N CAI
Flowmaster Exhaust
180* Thermostat
4.56 Gears
B&M Trans Cooler

Next Mods (In order)
Headers/Dual exhaust
Posi
Superchips
Throttle Body

Last edited by red9535; 04-03-2008 at 07:09 AM.
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Old 04-03-2008, 10:23 AM
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Will the 5 speed that is behind my 3.9L magnum work fine behind the 360? Didn't mean to hijack the thread.
Scott
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