Running Rich - Dakota Durango Forum
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post #1 of 2 Old 06-20-2006, 03:34 AM Thread Starter
Denver Durango
Join Date: Jun 2005
Vehicle: 1998 5.2 Dodge Durango with mods growing by the day
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Running Rich

Well, the title says it, I'm running pretty rich, as in I'm pretty sure I need a new cat now (or no cat would be better). I keep getting the cat code, and the ignition coil code. Any ideas?

I know it's not just sensors, I am running really rich, I can smell it easily. I doubt it is sensors causing it too, I just swapped out the O2s and no difference. Due to my lack of time I took it to an exhast place when I did that. Most recently when this all started (shortly after that), I looked under it, and did I always have a sensor before and after the cat in the exhast, I thought we just had one before. Or I suppose thats how it knows the whole cat thing, otherwise it would know if it was working or not. If that's the case if I just get frustrated and cut out the cat, will that mess with that sensor and therefore the computer, and screw my a/f?

any ideas let me know, I'm about ready to just saw that sucker off. Last time I got the coil code the coil wasn't bad, it was the wires for the exhast O2 sensor got melted and screwed up the A/F and it thought the coil was bad. Like I said, confused this time.

Thanks to all that help.

1998 Dodge Durango
5.2lt to a GM 14 Bolt with Spool 4.56
MSD ignition and wires
51mm Throttle Body SPAL fans 1.7 HS RRs
Holley Hi-Tek Intake with K&N's
NO A/C! But a Viair w/tank to take care of those tires
37"s and all aorund 24" travel with sway a way coils
High Flow cat and 3" exhast/long hedders

1985 Ramcharger
MSD ignition, distributor, wires, comp cam,
14x4'' intake 4.56 and 35"s
High Flow cat and 3" exhast/long hedders
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post #2 of 2 Old 06-20-2006, 05:29 AM
Sam Cler
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Running rich hmmm....

Well could be a fuel injector stuck open, maybe a plug not firing, a sensor giving the computer a wrong reading.

Check to see if a cylinder is running cold (too much fuel or no plug spark.) You can do this with a laser thermometer thing (excuse the non-technical term) or you can do it the old fashion way. Run the truck at idle after it completely cooled off for about a minute then take a squirt bottle with water and spray each individual primary of the headers. The cold cylinder is the one where the water doesn't evaporate completely or takes the longest. Not scientific but can give you an idea.

Cutting out the cat will not effect your A/F ratio. The pre cat sensor is the only one that controls that, the after cat sensor just gives you a warning (CEL) if something isn't running right. Another problem may be the location of the O2 sensor. It is supposed to be placed in the hottest part of the exhaust. If the exhaust shop moved it, it may not be in its optimal position to get the A/F ratio.

'92 Dakota
V8 318 Auto, 2/2 Drop, Dual Exhaust, 1.7 RR's, MP PCM
Shift Kit, Modded Keggar and TB, MSD ignition, Electric Fan
Custom Faded, Chipped and Rusted Paint Job
Leaking Rack & Pinion, Slipping Tranny, Pissing Oil
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