Removing Torsion Bars - Easy? - Dakota Durango Forum
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post #1 of 6 Old 07-24-2012, 05:12 PM Thread Starter
BlackGS
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Removing Torsion Bars - Easy?

Just wondering if there is something difficult about removing the torsion bars (98 4WD Durango). I have a new set of control arms to go in, and I haven't had time to get it done myself, so I took it to a shop who said they would do the job for a few hundred with an alignment included. After I drop off the truck, they call me and say they "don't have the right tools" to remove the torsion bars, so they don't want to do the job. I have the service manual and it doesn't look like anything more than loosening and removing the adjustment bolt. Am I missing something?

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post #2 of 6 Old 07-24-2012, 06:45 PM
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You have to have a type of C-clamp to safely take the pressure off the adjuster bolt, I know people that have used a normal C-clamp and been fine, I also know a few guys that have almost lost fingers or their whole hand by trying to do it without the right tool. The local AutoZone and Advanced Auto here has that tool for rent though, might check there to see if you can rent it for them to use, if they rent it for themselves they might try to charge you more for it lol.

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post #3 of 6 Old 07-24-2012, 11:47 PM
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They probably seen how rusty they were and decided it wasn't worth spending a day for a few hundred. Likely seized at both ends of the bar.
I have done torsion bars without any special tools, clamps, etc. and it wasn't unsafe in any way.

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post #4 of 6 Old 07-25-2012, 04:11 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the tips. There is a video on youtube showing a couple guys removing the torsion bars on a Dakota without the clamps or anything, and looks like they had no issues. I'll be doing this myself now, and I have some big C-clamps to use, so I'll throw those on just to be safer. The rust doesn't look too bad, so I hope it doesn't require too much hammer time. I'll be sure to soak everything overnight with some PB before starting.

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post #5 of 6 Old 07-26-2012, 10:28 AM
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I think I know the video your talking about. They are replacing the control arm bushings in a set of 10 or 11 videos. Great video. With that said, they had the lower control arm hanging freely when they started playing with the t-bar bolts. That is why it was so easy for them. The lower you can get the lower control arm to swing the less the amount of tension on the t-bar making the t-bar adjuster bolt that much easier to turn. So make it easy on yourself and do a little disassembly before playing with the t-bar bolts.
  1. if you have a front sway bar, unbolt the front sway bar retaining brackets that attach to the lower control arm and let the sway bar swing down so that it isn't applying any pressure to the lower control arms.
  2. disconnect the shocks from the lower control arm so it too isn't holding up the lower control arm
  3. put the front of the truck up on jack stands at the frame rails so the front suspension is allowed to drop relieving most of the tension on the t-bar & adjuster bolts.

If you still can't turn the adjuster bolt, then disconnect the lower control arm ball joint from the steering knuckle. This will allow the lower control arm to swing down all the way so there will be no tension on the t-bar & adjuster bolts.

Good luck...

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post #6 of 6 Old 07-26-2012, 12:38 PM
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good luck

Quote:
Originally Posted by 9t9-5.2 View Post
They probably seen how rusty they were and decided it wasn't worth spending a day for a few hundred. Likely seized at both ends of the bar.
I have done torsion bars without any special tools, clamps, etc. and it wasn't unsafe in any way.
i am in agreement.the one i did get to come loose took a 3/4 impact with the air pressure cranked up to 140 psi.when it came apart it was fine,plenty of threads to release all the tension safely.when the other one broke it shot a 15/16 deep 3/4 drive socket about 10 ft across the garage floor.not so safe
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