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  #1  
Old 07-08-2012, 03:07 PM
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Getting a "No Bus" On Odometer

Okay so long before I began my repair on the timing cover gasket I had a dying issue. This issue happened to me again on my way to work lastnight. I was on the highway going about 60 mph and the engine just died. I pull over on the shoulder and I see "No Bus" on the odometer. I read somewhere that this usually occurs when the gauges are not communicating with the ECM.

When this happens the engine will crank and crank but won't start. My "security" light is lit along with the ABS light when I'm trying to start it. I am wanting to check ground points because I think that's all I can do at this point. Others have found that their PCM's or TCM's are bad. Just don't know where to really start in order to get this thing started.

I have already replaced the IAC and the TPS sensors in an effort to fix this issue. The IAC was replaced because I get a DTC for a bad IACV, can't really remember what the code was. After replacing the IAC, it didn't fix the problem so I went ahead and replaced the TPS as my throttle responsse was acting funny. It would still throttle itself after completely letting go of the throttle pedal. It took care of that but it didn't resolve the dying issue.

Where do I start?
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  #2  
Old 07-08-2012, 07:38 PM
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Get a code scanner and read the code(s). There should be at least one code or more telling you which module cannot communicate or be communicated with over the BUS.

The NO BUS is a generic message that will be displayed when modules like the PCM, TCM or Guage cluster are not responding. As an example, my dakota threw the NO BUS error and my DTC was P1698 - No Bus communication from the PCM to the TCM

Post the codes when you get them and we can troubleshoot from there.
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Old 07-08-2012, 10:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasCoder View Post
Get a code scanner and read the code(s). There should be at least one code or more telling you which module cannot communicate or be communicated with over the BUS.

The NO BUS is a generic message that will be displayed when modules like the PCM, TCM or Guage cluster are not responding. As an example, my dakota threw the NO BUS error and my DTC was P1698 - No Bus communication from the PCM to the TCM

Post the codes when you get them and we can troubleshoot from there.
I forgot to mention that this only happens for a short period of time. Anywhere from 15 minutes to a few hours and it'll start back up again. Except when it starts it starts up kind of hesitant and bogs down like it wants to die. It will idle vey low fluctuating in rpms's sometimes dying. If I give it some throttle and hold it steady at about 1500 rpm's for a minute and gradually decrease the rpm's it will stay running. If I let go completely it will die.

I have already hooked up a scanner for troubleshooting. I only have the code for the IACV which I have erased numerous times and it keeps re-appearing. I can't get it to go away. As for the "No Bus" issue, it sounds like I have to hook up the scanner at the time of the problem because every time I hook up after it dies on me, only code I see on there is the one for the IACV.

Could I have a bad control module?
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  #4  
Old 07-09-2012, 07:32 PM
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Okay, just for giggles, I know this may sound dumb but, oh well. My ground wire from my battery to the Alternator/A/C Compressor is rolled up into three or four rolls and is chaffed from rubbing on the block.

Now, why in the hell is it this long? I doubt it came this way out of the factory.
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Old 07-14-2012, 09:42 PM
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From my experience with the problem you are having is the computer because it is getting hot and shutting off then starts working again after cooling the only other case i had where it had said no bus was when a distributor was bad but the truck wouldnt start at all an only said no bus when running the codes with the key
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Old 07-15-2012, 09:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackDurango View Post
Okay, just for giggles, I know this may sound dumb but, oh well. My ground wire from my battery to the Alternator/A/C Compressor is rolled up into three or four rolls and is chaffed from rubbing on the block.

Now, why in the hell is it this long? I doubt it came this way out of the factory.
what do you mean 3 or 4 rolls? There is one long ass ground from battery to alternator, probably 3.5 FT if i had to guess..
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Old 07-15-2012, 11:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Showmyrtdakota View Post
From my experience with the problem you are having is the computer because it is getting hot and shutting off then starts working again after cooling the only other case i had where it had said no bus was when a distributor was bad but the truck wouldnt start at all an only said no bus when running the codes with the key
I am almost quite sure it is a bad pcm. I have been doing a lot of research on this particular forum on the "No Bus" complaint and all the symptoms point to the a bad pcm. I have been driving it for days now and no problems with it dying until yesterday. I knew it was bound to die at some point or another but I was just waiting to see when it would finally die on me. Ambient temperature here the last few days have been around 95-97 so I knew I would be able to confirm a bad pcm if it in fact is shutting down when it gets hot. So, after it died I pulled over to the shoulder and turned on my ignition. Sure enough "No Bus" on the odometer. I shut it off and gave it about two minutes to let it cool down or let it do whatever magic it does in there. After waiting briefly I turned on my ignition and all the gauges started working with "No Bus" diminishing. Sure enough I cranked it and it started. I had been driving it for some time yesterday when it died on me - ambient temp at 95 and engine compartment at who knows. The fact that it does this ONLY when it's hot leads me to believe it's a faulty pcm. If it was a sensor, I think it would do it more often than it actually does it.

Prior to it dying on me I had checked a few ground locations and repaired the negative battery cable that was chaffed. All my grounds look pretty good with no rust, dirt, or any defects that would consider them to be repaired. I know there is still a few ground locations out there somewhere I just didn't get to them but will locate them when I have a chance. I also disconnected all three harnesses to the pcm and checked the connectors and pins, male and female side. Everything looks in good shape.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Misfit View Post
what do you mean 3 or 4 rolls? There is one long ass ground from battery to alternator, probably 3.5 FT if i had to guess..
Yea, the negative battery cable going right below the A/C comprssor. That one was about like you said, 3.5 feet long. it was so long that it was rolled into 3 rolls and zip tied to other wire looms to keep it from rubbing on the block. Anyway, I took that off and bought a new negative battery cable and threw that one. Works perfect, no sense in having it that long and having it rub on all the other shit in there.

So with all that said and done, does anyone know where to get a pcm from a reliable supplier?

Last edited by BlackDurango; 07-15-2012 at 11:12 PM.
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  #8  
Old 12-05-2012, 07:49 PM
ddurango51 ddurango51 is offline
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Could be the PCM

I had recent similar experience. If you rule out everything else, be careful where you get a replacement PCM. Check the applicable BBB reports on the company and proceed with caution. You might get a good PCM and you are OK. If not, don't expect this company to stand behind the warranty. My recent experience is here:

http://ddurango12.blogspot.com/

Visitors and comments welcome.
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  #9  
Old 01-14-2013, 11:30 PM
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i had the "no bus" come up on my durango and it was just the ground by the ac/ power steering pump was loose.
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  #10  
Old 01-20-2013, 08:36 AM
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That's good to know. I was looking at buying one from them too.
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  #11  
Old 06-01-2013, 02:55 AM
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It's been a long time since I have been on here. I have confirmed that I have a bad pcm. During thie entire winter I had no issues with the car dying or the "no bus" problem. Now that it's warming up I'm beginning to have the same problems again. I am going to save up some money so that I can buy one.

I have read the review from computer exhcnage and I'm kinda iffy on purchasing a pcm from them. They are the cheapest I could find so it kinda makes you wonder why they would be the cheapest out there. I have found two other websites but they range all the way up to $300 - $400 including lifetime warranty. Auto module sources and all computer recources, inc. are the other guys.

My question is does anybody else know of any recommendable companies that deliver what they claim and stand behind their product?

Get back to me. Thanks!
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Old 06-18-2013, 09:38 PM
durangofenix38 durangofenix38 is offline
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I just bought one from Auto Computer Exchange...just got it in the mail today so when I get home from work I'm going to put it in...Every finger I have is crossed that this solves the issue. I'll let you know how it goes but I will tell you this, the customer service was excellent with these guys.
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  #13  
Old 06-22-2013, 07:02 PM
durangofenix38 durangofenix38 is offline
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Update...I got a refurbed and programmed PCM from Auto Computer Exchange out of Florida on eBay for my 5.9l 99 Rango for $129 shipped and let me tell you...it was worth that and so much more!! My local shop quoted me $1200 for the replacement, saying that the part was nearly $800 and Autozone offered a few options but the cheapest was still almost $400. I called this seller first and talked to them about thier product and I combed through thier seller feedback and felt like I couldnt afford not to try and I am so glad I did. I saved so much money and the seller even called me directly to let me know that my package was set to be delivered that same day and if I had any questions about it. I put the part in 4 days ago and so far so good...and it comes with a lifetime warranty so you cant beat that. Hope this info is helpfull.
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  #14  
Old 09-09-2013, 12:49 AM
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I gave in and purchased one from auto module source out of florida also. I don't know if they're tied with auto computer exchange but so far for the past few days it's been running just fine in 90ish degree heat. No dies or anything so so far it has been worth the money. Any issues that I have, I will post them.
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