Front crankshaft seal replacent on 4.7L - Dodge Durango Forum
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post #1 of 6 Old 04-20-2012, 11:34 PM Thread Starter
ramit
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Front crankshaft seal replacent on 4.7L

Well I took the Dango in to get the rear pinion seal repaced. The tech said the front crankshaft seal needs replaced. I have noticed this myself as there are a few drops on the garage floor. I could see the leak when looking under the Dango. It is wet behind the pulley/damper area.
Has anybody had this issue?
Has anybody replaced theirs on their own or through shop?
Is there a DIY anywhere on how to do this?
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post #2 of 6 Old 04-21-2012, 07:25 AM
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I've got my engine apart in the garage right now and it;s supposed to be raining all day tomorrow. I'll get some pics see what kind of write up I can do for yah. It's not a hard job at all really

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post #3 of 6 Old 04-21-2012, 11:09 AM Thread Starter
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That would be awesome!
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post #4 of 6 Old 04-21-2012, 11:26 PM
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Ok, so first thing first. You won't have to remove the radiator to get to the dampener pulley but it sure would make it easier to work on.

Once you remove whatever shields and stuff in your way from getting to the dampener pulley you're gonna need to take this tool:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=391370_0_0_

You can rent it at autozone, you pay up front and get all your money back upon returning it.

And remove the dampener.

Once you remove the dampener it will look something like this:







My timing cover is off the engine right now so it will look a little bit different for you. You will have the snout of your crank sticking out of the middle of that little ring (The crankshaft seal aka. the front main seal.) That is the part we are changing.

You will need to get a pick of some sorts and pry it out of the timing cover. You have to be careful when doing this not to scratch the crank and you also have to be careful not to drop the little spring from the seal down into the pan. The spring is not important because it is getting replaced but you don't want it in your oil pan.

It'll look like this now:



But of course the snout of the crank will be there in the middle. Clean up the surfaces a little bit too make sure everything seats good.

Then you need to place the new seal on the cover



And lightly tap it into place working your way around it tapping it in a little at a time.



Then reinstall the dampener making sure to line up the keyway (Just a little key on the crank to make sure you can only put the dampener back on one way). Make sure the dampener is clean and you put a little bit of oil on it and the seal to make sure it's not dry upon startup.

This tool may or may not work:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=391373_0_0_

Other people have had luck with heating the dampener and cooling the crank and starting the damper back on by tapping it and then cranking it the rest of the way in with the dampener bolt. It is very important not to try and crank down the dampener with the bolt if there is only a couple of threads in there. The last thing you want to do it destroy the threads in the crank.

You will for sure be able to reinstall it with this tool here:

http://www.airram.com/product.php?ca...productid=1476

It's not gonna be free but you will get both tools that you need to remove and install the dampener and it's not really that much to rent it.

Once the dampener is installed and seated torque down the bolt to spec. It is 130 ft-lbs for the 2002 engine and it should be the same for yours. Most people just hit it with an impact gun and call it a day.


I hope this helps. If you have any questions feel free to ask.

My truck is cool.



Last edited by mthandt; 06-06-2012 at 06:13 AM.
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post #5 of 6 Old 04-22-2012, 01:20 AM Thread Starter
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Big thanx for the visual. Now I kinda have an idea on how...
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post #6 of 6 Old 06-06-2012, 06:12 AM
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Just a update since I recently installed my damper without an install tool. The one from autozone did not work. But I just put the actual damper in a bucket of hot water from the tap (Didn't have to boil it or anything) for a few minutes and then turned a can of keyboard spray upside down and sprayed it on the crank. The heat expanded the damper enough and the cold shrunk the crank enough to slide it part way on and tap it on some more carefully with a block of wood and a hammer. Then the bolt snugged it the rest of the way down.

My truck is cool.


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