97 Dakota won't start - Dakota Durango Forum
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post #1 of 18 Old 03-13-2012, 11:06 PM Thread Starter
eznacho
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97 Dakota won't start

Hello everyone let me introduce myself my name is Edson Zuleta, but everyone calls me Nacho.

I have a 97 Dodge Dakota that isn't starting, I will list the things that I have changed on the truck to help further diagnose the problem.

Crankshaft Sensor
Fuel Pump
Map Sensor
Engine Coil
Spark Plugs
Oil Change
New Battery

No check engine light. I might be missing some other things I've changed, will let you know if you mention it.
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post #2 of 18 Old 03-13-2012, 11:12 PM
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Cam sensor under the distributor cap

- Justin
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post #3 of 18 Old 03-13-2012, 11:58 PM
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Rather than throwing parts at it you need to do some troubleshooting. Start with the Auto Shutdown Relay. If you turn the key to on (not trying to start, just the run position) you should hear the fuel pump for a second or two. If you hear it, then you need to check fuel pressure. If you don't you need to find out why. Work from there.


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post #4 of 18 Old 03-14-2012, 12:18 AM
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I am with JimLusk on this one, diagnose it a little further, 3 things are needed for a basic engine to run: fuel, spark and compression. Check to make sure your engine has those three and go from there.

Also, is it a no crank no start or crank no stark, does the engine try to turn over or you get nothing when you turn the key (dead silence)?
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post #5 of 18 Old 03-14-2012, 07:09 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks yall, its a crank no start I get a spark, what it does is it tries to crank over and as it tries sometimes it actually does start but doesn't stay on only for like half a second or so
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post #6 of 18 Old 03-15-2012, 03:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eznacho View Post
Thanks yall, its a crank no start I get a spark, what it does is it tries to crank over and as it tries sometimes it actually does start but doesn't stay on only for like half a second or so


Have you made CERTAIN the engine is in time? Besides that, have you run a pressure test on the fuel system? When you turn the key on, you'll hear a short pulse of the fuel pump charging the fuel lines. This may be why it's running for a short time. If the pump doesn't work in the run position, the truck won't run.

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post #7 of 18 Old 03-15-2012, 03:12 AM
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I say cam sensor also.
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post #8 of 18 Old 03-16-2012, 06:46 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ol' grouch View Post
Have you made CERTAIN the engine is in time? Besides that, have you run a pressure test on the fuel system? When you turn the key on, you'll hear a short pulse of the fuel pump charging the fuel lines. This may be why it's running for a short time. If the pump doesn't work in the run position, the truck won't run.

Yes I had a mechanic make sure the engine was in time.

When I turn the key on I hear the short pulse of the fuel pump charging the lines.

It doesn't ever really start sometimes when I keep cranking and cranking it will start but only for about half a second or so... never technically "RUNS"

As far as the cam sensor goes, I've looked online for the part and it keeps showing me a crank shaft sensor, is that the same thing? I'm not getting results at autozone website or checker/oreilly's website.
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post #9 of 18 Old 03-16-2012, 06:48 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimLusk View Post
Rather than throwing parts at it you need to do some troubleshooting. Start with the Auto Shutdown Relay. If you turn the key to on (not trying to start, just the run position) you should hear the fuel pump for a second or two. If you hear it, then you need to check fuel pressure. If you don't you need to find out why. Work from there.
I also tried changing the relay with a relay of the same model # with that one and nothing changes, I made sure the relay hooked up at the ASD slot worked by putting it on the starter relay slot and it wanted to crank, without a relay in the STARTER RELAY SLOT nothing happened.
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post #10 of 18 Old 03-16-2012, 07:07 PM
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I wonder if your MIL (Check Engine Light) is burned out. Have you hooked a code reader and/or scan tool up to it, to see if any codes can be pulled?
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post #11 of 18 Old 03-17-2012, 01:19 AM
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The cam sensor is not the same as the crank sensor... You say you changed the crank sensor so you know where that is. The cam sensor is under the distributor cap and rotor, it's a thin black disc with a single pig tail connector. It's also known as the pick up coil, pick up plate or distributor coil.

- Justin
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post #12 of 18 Old 03-17-2012, 01:34 AM
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post #13 of 18 Old 03-17-2012, 05:52 AM
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You should get a code if the cam sensor is bad. Make sure you have spark. Make sure you have fuel. Make sure you have voltage to the injectors (the PCM provides the ground for them).


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post #14 of 18 Old 03-17-2012, 05:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimLusk View Post
You should get a code if the cam sensor is bad. Make sure you have spark. Make sure you have fuel. Make sure you have voltage to the injectors (the PCM provides the ground for them).
I've had 2 go bad, never had a code.....

- Justin
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post #15 of 18 Old 03-17-2012, 05:59 PM
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same here
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