I think my fuel pump went out.. anything else to check? - Dodge Durango Forum and Dodge Dakota Forums
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post #1 of Old 05-23-2011, 03:21 AM Thread Starter
WestCoastKevin
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Exclamation I think my fuel pump went out.. anything else to check?

OK here's the story. 2002 Durango 4.7 (72,000 miles)

Driving this morning, no problems.
at 1pm, went to start the durango. no start. Upon paying attention, I could not hear the fuel pump.

What I have checked so far:
1. Fuse number 10 in drivers side panel is good and power is good. (Engine relay fuse).

2. Swapped fuel pump relay in engine compartment. Confirmed by feel that the relay activates for a few seconds (prime cycle) during KEY ON. Confirmed that the relays themselves are good because the fog lights came on when the relay was installed in the fog light socket.

3. Pressed the schrader valve in the fuel rail and got nothing. ergo no pressure.

I did not get under the vehicle yet. I had to cab it to the airport as that is where I was going. Good news/bad news. My flight was canceled so I had to come home. I want to nail down the diagnosis tonight or in the morning so i can get whatever parts I need while I am away from home for the next two weeks.

Questions:
1. Is there any kind of inertia switch or emergency fuel pump shut off switch that could do this?

2. Is there anything else to check when I get under it?

3. Which color wire is the power to the pump module so I can quickly check that in the A.M.?

3. I am looking at the Delphi FG0238 pump module or the Mopar OEM replacement. From your PERSONAL experience, is the Delphi one a decent product? Any pump advice will be helpful.

4. How long does it take to change the fuel pump module? Is it practical to consider cutting an access hole to replace this module from the top. Have you done it? I have not looked under the carpet to see what is there yet. The tank has less than 1/4 in it so it should not be too heavy to get down but if it can be done from the top, well it costs me nothing to ask....

Thanks,
Kevin

Member of the engine rebuild club, HO Cams, 68mm TB by Dwight, SuperChips, Bilstein shocks, 5-45rfe Jeep TCM mod. ... and I clean the windows pretty often.

Last edited by WestCoastKevin; 05-23-2011 at 02:51 PM.
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post #2 of Old 05-23-2011, 03:30 AM
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while you or a friend is cranking the key over, the other person can lay under the truck and bang on the bottom of the fuel tank in the center. This will usually cause fuel to temporarily flow, thus confirming that your fuel pump is the culprit. good luck, hope this helps!

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post #3 of Old 05-23-2011, 04:06 AM
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there is no inertia switch for pump...that's a "Ford" thing

sounds like you have properly diagnosed it...you need a pump

you must drop tank to replace it...plus you will need special tools to remove the lines from the top of the module

All our cars are here --> http://www.hubgarage.com/mygarage/A383Wing

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post #4 of Old 05-23-2011, 04:37 AM
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Hope your tank is empty, because I know how much a bitch the tank is full when working with it.

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327K+ miles, mostly all original factory parts, and 15 yrs. of reliable service.....you are missed.
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post #5 of Old 05-23-2011, 04:48 PM Thread Starter
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Update:,
1. I dropped the tank this morning. Thankfully, the vehicle was facing downhill a bit and also it had only about 1/8 of a tank of fuel.

2. I removed the fuel pump from the tank and plugged it back into the harness. It did execute a prime cycle normally. I did it a few times.

Conclusion: I suppose It could have been a bad connection. However the fuel gauge worked normally even when it was not pumping and it uses the same plug so I cannot really blame the connection. In addition, the connector is clean with no debris or corrosion in the plugs to make me suspect the harness.

Instructions:
No special tools are required. For anyone else doing this, here are the lessons learned so far.:
1. To remove the filler neck hoses from the tank, open the hose clamps all of the way so that the hose can stretch to clear the bump on the tank connector.
2. To remove the electrical connector, First slide the little red tab sideways, then press the gray tab down to pull the plug apart.
3. To remove the small evap line; the 2 clips can be gently spread apart and the line will slide off easily.
4. The larger fuel line can be removed by pressing the 2 blue clips into the hose connector with one hand while pulling the hose with the other. No force required.

The lines and wires are long enough to allow the tank to sit on the ground even with the rear left wheel 4" in the air. I did all of the unplugging after the tank was on the ground. You will want something to plug/cover the fuel outlet when you unplug it if there is more than 1/4 tank of fuel in it.

Fig 1. Tank on ground with the locking ring removed:


Fig 2. Harness connector.


Fig 3. Small hose clip.

Member of the engine rebuild club, HO Cams, 68mm TB by Dwight, SuperChips, Bilstein shocks, 5-45rfe Jeep TCM mod. ... and I clean the windows pretty often.

Last edited by WestCoastKevin; 05-23-2011 at 05:14 PM. Reason: I added removal instructions.
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post #6 of Old 05-23-2011, 09:07 PM Thread Starter
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Any thoughts on either of these pump modules?

Delphi FG0238 Fuel pump module $150.19 with free shipping.
Mopar Part 52102862AB Fuel pump Module: $234.08 plus shipping.

Any others that are good? I have 2 weeks before I am back home to work on it so shipping time is not a major issue.

Kevin

Member of the engine rebuild club, HO Cams, 68mm TB by Dwight, SuperChips, Bilstein shocks, 5-45rfe Jeep TCM mod. ... and I clean the windows pretty often.
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post #7 of Old 05-23-2011, 11:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WestCoastKevin View Post
Any thoughts on either of these pump modules?

Delphi FG0238 Fuel pump module $150.19 with free shipping.
Mopar Part 52102862AB Fuel pump Module: $234.08 plus shipping.

Any others that are good? I have 2 weeks before I am back home to work on it so shipping time is not a major issue.

Kevin
Hi local autoparts? az,or,avd,napa? price quote's? before you step in it? and if you have a problem then what? more time w/out your veh.? had a new and a reman mopar in my 1991 d250 go bad w/in 12mos. advance autoparts is still working! imho!. God speed and good luck!
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post #8 of Old 05-24-2011, 01:15 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dakota 2.5L View Post
Hi local autoparts? az,or,avd,napa? price quote's? before you step in it? and if you have a problem then what? more time w/out your veh.? had a new and a reman mopar in my 1991 d250 go bad w/in 12mos. advance autoparts is still working! imho!. God speed and good luck!
Funny you say that. I did call around. I would love to give the business to the local guy but you have to be at least in the ballpark.

As an example:
1. The local Dodge Dealer wants $375 for the pump. VS $235 from a different dodge dealer online. I asked them if they would meet me half way. They offered a 10% discount. They are turning away the business.

2. An Airtex pump (P/N: E7117M) at AutoZone here in town is $256 after tax here VS $156.79 plus shipping at Rockauto.com for the SAME part number

3. Advance Auto here in town have the Delphi Part # FG0238 for $286.
Summit Racing have it for $243 plus shipping.
Rock Auto have it for $202 plus shipping.
Amazon.com(sold by Delphi) have it for $151 with free shipping. the SAME part number.

In my specific case, because I am out of town anyway, waiting a few days is of no importance to me. I was lucky that it happened in my own driveway.

I do agree with you on the warranty issue though. That is always a concern. I will most probably not be so lucky to have 1/8 tank in my own driveway next time.

At this point, I just want to buy a good quality replacement unit. I am a bit astonished at the price differences for the same unit though.

Kevin

Member of the engine rebuild club, HO Cams, 68mm TB by Dwight, SuperChips, Bilstein shocks, 5-45rfe Jeep TCM mod. ... and I clean the windows pretty often.
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post #9 of Old 05-24-2011, 02:23 AM
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Thanks for the fyi. And god speed,good luck!
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post #10 of Old 06-13-2011, 05:25 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I put the new pump module in on Saturday. Getting the tank up was a bit of a pain doing it alone but it did not take long really.
Starts well and drives well. Hopefully the end of the story.

The old pump and new one side by side. The delphi pump is a dead ringer for the mopar one. even some of the subassembly component numbers are the same.


The new one fitted in the tank. I put some fresh paint on the locking ring and the tabs that the ring engages.

Member of the engine rebuild club, HO Cams, 68mm TB by Dwight, SuperChips, Bilstein shocks, 5-45rfe Jeep TCM mod. ... and I clean the windows pretty often.
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post #11 of Old 06-13-2011, 11:55 PM
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Good job! I am glad its working good for you. That old ff looked bad was it clogged? Brother mopar man.
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post #12 of Old 06-20-2011, 10:18 AM
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I was going to say you should have took the box off, but that would be kind of hard with a Durango lol. That fuel pump was $195 this spring when I bought it, it's down to $128 with free shipping now I didn't even really need the thing, the pressure valve would leak after a few hours on mine and cause it to take a while to start. $195 to save me those five seconds every morning I start it haha, I guess it was worth it. Fires right up now!

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