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Old 04-07-2011, 12:37 AM
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can you change "inner" tie rods?

my outer tie rod ends are fine, but I have an 'inner tie rod" that's bent. I say "inner tie rod" because that's what it would be on an older car, but with this rack and pinion, the tie rod disappears into the rubber boot on the rack/pinion, so I don't know if it can be changed or if the entire rack has to be swapped out.

anyone swap out the thinner tie rod that the tie rod ends screw onto to adjust your toe in/out?
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Old 04-07-2011, 12:46 AM
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I had my left inner tie rod end changed two days ago, because I could see movement between the tie rod and the steering gear when my truck was on the rack. Made a nice little clunk, too. Paid about $190 to have it changed, which might have been a little high.
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Old 04-07-2011, 12:57 AM
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You can change it I believe. I have done it on other vehicles. It takes a special tool unless you want to take the rack out. The tool should be available at AutoZone as a loaner. I would get a Moog brand from O'Reilly's though.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...mString=search

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/se...ota&vi=1314433
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Old 04-07-2011, 01:54 AM
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yes it can be changed. very simple job, but you may need to get a new clamp for the boot, there are ways to tighten the clamp without the propper pliers but they can be found for a reasonable price and one should have them anyways if they do their own work, as they are also used for CV joint boot clamps.
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Old 04-07-2011, 02:39 AM
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Yup can be changed relatively easily.
The pliers ramayer was mentioning are nice to have but not necessary. We clipped the bands holding on the boot, then re-secured it using a screw type metal band. Works great!
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Old 04-07-2011, 03:46 AM
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Yup, overall its a fairly easy job.

FYI - the loaner tool at AutoZone didn't work on my truck, it was too small. I ended up using a large pair of vice grips to remove and re-install the new part.

Once the boot is removed, the inner tie rod just unscrews from the rack. If you don't get new rack boots at the same time, you can just use a large zip-tie to re-secure the boot. It's what the new boots would come with anyway.
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Old 04-07-2011, 04:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 70Cuda383 View Post
my outer tie rod ends are fine, but I have an 'inner tie rod" that's bent. I say "inner tie rod" because that's what it would be on an older car, but with this rack and pinion, the tie rod disappears into the rubber boot on the rack/pinion, so I don't know if it can be changed or if the entire rack has to be swapped out.

anyone swap out the thinner tie rod that the tie rod ends screw onto to adjust your toe in/out?
as mentioned above, they can be changed. do any *oh by the way* stuff while front end is apart. be sure to use blue loctite during assembly.
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Old 04-07-2011, 01:05 PM
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the "oh by the way stuff" is already done! it already has new ball joints, I'm doing brakes at the same time, and am also swapping out whatever drop springs are in it not for my hotchkis coils/shocks.

I'm actually surprised at how easy that was to do! I was worried that it couldn't be done because my Factory Service Manual doesn't say anything about changing the inner tie rods, only the tie rod ends, or the entire rack.

just need to get a tie rod end to finish up the job. this one is too loose, and the ball stud is spinning inside the rod end, so I can't get the bolt tight.

if all I had to do was swap out the inner tie rod, I could have been done in about an hour.

to the guy who paid $200 for that...I'm sorry man, but you got had. the part is like $10 on Rock Auto, so you got hit for about 3 hours of labor for a 1 hour job.
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Old 04-07-2011, 01:07 PM
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to the guy who paid $200 for that...I'm sorry man, but you got had. the part is like $10 on Rock Auto, so you got hit for about 3 hours of labor for a 1 hour job.

Nevermind....they would have done a complete alignment as well afterwards since they had the front end apart. $200 probably is close to fair once you consider an $80 alignment job as well....
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Old 04-07-2011, 03:46 PM
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Nevermind....they would have done a complete alignment as well afterwards since they had the front end apart. $200 probably is close to fair once you consider an $80 alignment job as well....
Well, the inner tie rod end cost $72, $102 was for labor, and the remaining $10 was for tax. I paid $80 extra for the alignment.

Like I said, I may have paid a little much to have this job done, but I just didn't want to bother with yet more potentially time-consuming front-end work after I spent two days replacing balljoints and lower control arms.
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Old 04-07-2011, 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by t vago View Post
Well, the inner tie rod end cost $72, $102 was for labor, and the remaining $10 was for tax. I paid $80 extra for the alignment.

Like I said, I may have paid a little much to have this job done, but I just didn't want to bother with yet more potentially time-consuming front-end work after I spent two days replacing balljoints and lower control arms.

Holy crap!! Are we talking a Dakota here? Those parts are $10-$20 on rock auto and autozone websites!!
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Old 04-07-2011, 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by 70Cuda383 View Post
Holy crap!! Are we talking a Dakota here? Those parts are $10-$20 on rock auto and autozone websites!!
That's why I prefer to do my own maintenance. I spent about $220 in Moog parts to do the other balljoint/swaybar link maintenance, and it would have cost me at least $400 if I had a local repair shop do the maintenance, and they would likely would have used cheapo junk that would have failed in a year.

I suppose I could have waited until this weekend, and done both inner and outer tie rod ends myself, but I just came out of a nice round of wrestling lower control arms and grinding off upper balljoint rivets in 30 degree weather. I could have also done the tie rod ends while I was doing the other front end labor. Ah, well. Woulda-coulda-shoulda...
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Old 04-07-2011, 07:36 PM
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I hear ya on that!! Lucky for me, I have a parts truck now, I just replaced: right tie rod, left spindle, hub, caliper, and pads, all I spent was $25 for new pads!!


When I don't want to mess w something, I at least price check the parts before going, and give the guy up to 10% over to supply his own parts, otherwise, I supply my own.
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