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#1
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If you're replacing brake calipers on your 03+ Dakota...
I learned this the hard way today. Bought new front calipers because one of the old one's was draggin on the rotor and not releasing properly. The new caliper kits came with all that's needed including new caliper mounting brackets (mounts the caliper to the wheel hub) I didn't check to see if the two bolts/slider pins (which attaches the caliper to the hub mounting bracket) were tight because when picking them up out of the box, it all felt like they were put together well, like they sould be.
Not quite... After a few days I started getting this crazy rattling noise in the front end when going over bumps and could feel it through the steering wheel. Had a mechanic check out the front end cause I was thinking it was suspension related, or maybe ball joints going bad. Everything was tight as it should be. They couldn't figure out what it was untill I put my hand on the caliper, and I just about freaked. On the left side caliper, both bolts securing it to the mounting bracket were gone, so it was barely hanging on while bouncing all over the place and even hitting and scratching up the inside of the wheel. The other caliper was missing one bolt, the one remaining was close to falling out. Got new bolts in their, and TIGHTENED so I'm safe now!
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Every great idea I have gets me in trouble. Last edited by Josh_101; 11-06-2010 at 05:25 AM. |
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#2
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Thanks, came very close to that situation myself. Good headup!
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#3
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The mechanic their said he's seen a similar thing happen to someone's car, only it came all the way off and got lodged up into the rim, put a nice hole on it too.
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Every great idea I have gets me in trouble. |
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#4
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Damn, glad you didn't get hurt man... That could have gone very bad very fast.
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01 Dakota SLT 4.7 M/T |
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#5
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Quote:
Pistons, more often then not, will hang up like that when the rubber o-rings inside the piston bore are damaged or worn out. Its the thicker of the two o-rings that pulls the piston back from the rotor. When it goes, the piston won't return to its neutral position and the brakes will drag. Simply replacing the o-ring will solve the problem. Just sayin'...
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4.7L '03 Patriot Blue Durango SLT K&N FIPK Magnaflow Muffler w/ stock tubing |
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#6
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I dunno how to take those apart though...
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Every great idea I have gets me in trouble. |
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#7
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Its fairly simple. Remove the piston, remove the old o-rings, lather the new o-rings in new brake fluid, install the o-rings in the piston bore, put the piston back on, and bleed the system. Its a fairly universal procedure.
Do a search for "how to rebuild caliper" on YouTube.com to see a good video series on it from 'expertvillage'. They break up the steps into multiple video's. Kind of annoying, but the guy explains things pretty well.
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4.7L '03 Patriot Blue Durango SLT K&N FIPK Magnaflow Muffler w/ stock tubing |
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#8
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Quote:
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#9
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#10
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Quote:
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Don't know what parts stores you've been checking, or when you checked. But AutoZone, Pepboys, Kragen/O'Rielly & NAPA in my area and their online stores carry caliper rebuild kits for many many different vehicles. If you can't find it there, check rockauto.com or summitracing.com. They are fairly common and very inexpensive.
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4.7L '03 Patriot Blue Durango SLT K&N FIPK Magnaflow Muffler w/ stock tubing |
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#11
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Scary shit!
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![]() ![]() 2003 Dodge Dakota SLT Club Cab 3.9 V6 + 2001 Dodge Dakota Sport Quad Cab 4x4 4.7 V8 '03 CC--> V6 TB by bwdakrt, Kegger mod, HS 1.7 RR, Superchips 3715, Magnaflow muffler, GC Fan, E-Fan Controller, 180F T-Stat, R/T Wheels, LOWERED 2/3, Hotchkis coils & rear sway, Bilstein shocks, 160A Durango Alternator, 2 12" Alpine Type-S, MTX X-Thunder 1000XD, 4 CDT Audio 6.5" Midranges, MTX X-Thunder 702X, Clear Corners & Headlights w/4300K HID, 35% Tint Fronts, Doubled 5% Cab Sides and Rear Club Cab Crew #179 '01 QC--> HO Intake, '02 Jeep GC TCM, Westin Step bars Last edited by SynRG; 11-09-2010 at 06:51 AM. |
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#12
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for $5 you can get a cheap self bleeder if your that worried about removing the brake line. only takes 2 minutes to bleed brakes. not to mention, you still have to clean the caliper pins and re-lube them if using the old caliper. a new caliper comes with new pins, just throw some lube in the bores and your done. so while your fuckin around cleaning caliper pins and bores with emery cloth and a round file, you could just use new parts and be done with it.Quote:
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#13
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Not everyone waits til they are upside down in a ditch after a wheel bearing goes out, fix shit before it goes and then you are not waiting with your truck down.
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![]() 2008 Corvette 485whp 2001 RC 4.7 5-Speed 4x4 2004 Honda 450R
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#14
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the only way i would use online parts stores is if it was for a project sitting in my barn, or a secondary vehicle that i didnt need fixed in a hurry.
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#15
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I spent $240 in total and got $100 back for the cores, had to wait a day but the brakes still worked if I needed to stop. I'm fine with that if I'm able to take a few bolts out, swap parts and have it all done in an hour and a half.
When the noise came this went on for 4 or 5 days and got progressively worse until we found the real reason behind it all. Spent $40 to have it lifted and a couple caliper bolt kits (not exactly the right kit, but the bolts fit) purchased and hopefully I won't have to worry about anything else for a while.
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Every great idea I have gets me in trouble. |
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