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post #1 of Old 11-02-2010, 04:11 AM Thread Starter
gturner
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Front Axle Replacement

I need to replace the front right axle coming from the differential, it is retained with a c clip, but it is recessed , and i can't push it in far enough to get it off, i need to remove the spider gears, there seems to be some sort of set screw holding the pin that runs through the spider gears, anyone know how to remove it or what it is, i tried allen wrenchs and nothing seems to fit. It;s a 2000 dakota 4x4 sport, thanks
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post #2 of Old 11-02-2010, 04:54 AM
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are you removing the axle shaft just to replace the axle assembly, or are you taking the front diff apart? i pulled both my cv shafts out and didnt need to remove any c-clips.

Hi, my name is Brad, and I have an addiction to Dakotas.
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post #3 of Old 11-02-2010, 05:01 AM
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you need to pull that set screw, be careful not to break it, its about 3" long and only has 1/4" of thread on it by the head. then you need to pull the pin out of the carrier, now you can put your axle shaft in and get those c-clips out. and wala, the axle will slide out.

not sure why your doing this but thats how. also, if your doing gears, you better have a pro do it. its not something every mechanic "or anybody" can do.

408 with r/t heads and nitro boosters
let her eat... from the bottle to the throttle!
99 blue dakota sport, 99 black r/t, 01 durango r/t, 96 xj
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post #4 of Old 11-02-2010, 05:13 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clint282cc View Post
you need to pull that set screw, be careful not to break it, its about 3" long and only has 1/4" of thread on it by the head. then you need to pull the pin out of the carrier, now you can put your axle shaft in and get those c-clips out. and wala, the axle will slide out.

not sure why your doing this but thats how. also, if your doing gears, you better have a pro do it. its not something every mechanic "or anybody" can do.

that short shaft coming from the differential stripped out inside the cv joint, so the teeth are rounded off , I can see what i need to do, but what holds that set screw and how do i get it out, i first thought it was an hex head , but i can't seem to get anything to fit it! !
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post #5 of Old 11-02-2010, 05:26 AM
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this is the bolt your talking about right?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RAT-5811/?rtype=10

should be a small hex head...

408 with r/t heads and nitro boosters
let her eat... from the bottle to the throttle!
99 blue dakota sport, 99 black r/t, 01 durango r/t, 96 xj
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post #6 of Old 11-02-2010, 11:15 PM
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All you need to do is yank that bitch out. No need to disassemble the axle. Dodge has a special tool to do it with a slide hammer pulling on the groove, use your imagination.

I had the same exact problem this summer.

Dealership for new stub shafts and c-clips (~$150) and www.rockauto.com for new (not reman) CV shafts at $50 a pop.
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post #7 of Old 11-03-2010, 03:14 AM Thread Starter
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Earlier today i called and talked to a Dodge shop, the bottom line is: it can either be pulled out, or as i was instructed, to take a large punch or bar and bump it out, the C clip is rounded , so it is made to come out with pressure. Anyway, i got that done, now i am on to the transmission, 5 spd that is making noise inside. I have had numerous Dodges, still have a 91 dually diesel, had a Viper for 5 yrs ( bought it new) had a 97 Dakota ( bought it new also) and sold it in less than a year, ( it was a tub of shit) and i bought this 2000 reg cab sport as a project for something to do, i guess i forgot what a pile of shit dodges really are. I learned my lesson this time
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post #8 of Old 11-03-2010, 05:41 AM
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Originally Posted by gturner View Post
i guess i forgot what a pile of shit dodges really are. I learned my lesson this time

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post #9 of Old 11-03-2010, 08:25 AM
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01 dur 4.7 79k
shh im secretly a chevy guy
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post #10 of Old 11-04-2010, 01:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gturner View Post
... i guess i forgot what a pile of shit dodges really are. I learned my lesson this time
Good luck getting help then.

If it's a 10 year old vehicle and hasn't been well looked after, there WILL be problems. The majority of people out there don't realize that there are parts on a vehicle that need replaced from time to time....nevermind the asshats who don't know you need to change fluids.
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post #11 of Old 11-20-2010, 07:02 AM
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Exclamation

Question for gturner:

Hello, and first I have to say that after searching the web for a week, I'm relieved to have found this site.

I so could use your help.

I'm the original owner of a 2000 Dakota 4WD, V6 3.9
A little history on the problem at hand, then a quick question at the bottom.
Guys thanks so much in advance for your help with this. I don't even think Dodge knows how to answer this... read on.

Back in July of this summer, the driver's side front half shaft went bad.
I normally would have done the work myself (I do all the work on my truck myself) but was injured at the time and couldn't risk making the injury worse (herniated discs... Don't ever hurt your back... best advice ANYone could give).

So I had a very reputable shop replace the halfshaft. All was good.

Until... a week ago, the same halfshaft (driver's front) starts groaning again.

I look underneath to find the inner end of the halfshaft completely fallen off of the stub shaft that comes out of the differential housing... AND, the stub shaft splines nearly destroyed.

Called the shop that did the work for me, and was told "bring it in, we'll cover all parts under warranty but not the labor". I decided to fix it myself this time, based on: a) I wanna do it this time. b) WOuldn't be saving much at all, beings I'd have to rent a car for a few days anyway.

The Repair
I order a halfshaft and the stub shaft from Dodge, and pick them up this morning. Replaced them both today (driver's side front) to find that:
the outer groove on the stubshaft is in the wrong spot! The slotted groove is in the middle of the exposed end of the shaft, whereas it really needs to be about 1/4" from the end (where the original shaft's groove was) in order to mate up with the groove in the inner end of the halfshaft hub!!

The result is: I can't get the halfshaft hub to "snap" onto the stubshaft ring, because the slot for the ring is in the wrong spot.

I called Dodge, and service manager found a footnote on whatever screen he ordered the parts from, that said something like: stub shaft has been modified to streamline production. Clip ring no longer needed, and should be a non-issue once the halfshaft has been mounted, since it's trapped between the diff housing and the wheel hub.

I beg to differ!!!

I can reach in and yank the inside end of the halfshaft right off the stinkin' stubshaft.


Service manager's reassurance was, "well, your parts are waranteed for a year, so if it wears out we'll replace them".

Here's the thing: I don't WANT them to wear out. Don't wanna do this every 4 months, as it seems that's all I got out of the last one!!


Anyone run into this?? If so, did it last???
I wanna say it CAN'T be a good thing to be able to yank the halfshaft right off the stubshaft!

If Dodge is gonna do something like that, shouldn't the halfshaft be made LONGER, so that it won't slip off??
Has the dealer made a mistake? Did they give me the wrong halfshaft to go with Dodge's "altered" stub shaft??

Help!!!!
-matt
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post #12 of Old 11-20-2010, 07:40 PM
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Sounds to me like you got an OLD stub shaft. Sometime in 2000 they changed the location of the c-clip to the end of the shaft.

The NEW CV shafts I bought from www.rockauto.com and the new stub shafts I got from Dodge were both set up for the c-clip at the end of the stub shaft. I bought new c-clips as well, from Dodge.

Do yourself a favor, return those CV shafts you bought from the dealer (I'm sure you paid dearly for them). RockAuto has them for $50 each, NEW. Not the reman ones. Also request that they get an up-to-date stub shaft as the ones you go are not.
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post #13 of Old 12-13-2010, 07:29 PM
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I'm about to do this same repair and was wondering what amount of force is needed to pop that inner axle shaft out of the housing. I was planning on welding a coupling nut to the end of the shaft (if even possible. That steel may not weld too well) and attaching a slide hammer but i was wondering if some vice grips or other clamps, a little elbow grease, and maybe a little cussing; haha, may get the job done.
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post #14 of Old 12-17-2010, 02:49 AM
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It shouldn't take an awful lot of force...I'd try the easier things like big vice grips etc first before welding.
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post #15 of Old 03-17-2011, 03:41 PM
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this thread seems to bring up my problem.....how did you guys get that c clip out of the axle? I am having the same problem as you, and I dont know what size head that is on the retainer bolt for the pin. did you say you just whacked it out? and it didn't damage your spider gears?

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