Oil Pan BOLTS won't tighten - Dakota Durango Forum
4.7L/4.7L HO/4.7L Gen II Engines Questions regarding the 4.7L V8 engine

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post #1 of 19 Old 07-26-2010, 05:37 AM Thread Starter
jeff_az2001
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Oil Pan BOLTS won't tighten

Installed my new oil pan gasket put the bolts back in but they dont seem to tighten like they get to one point then loosen, also there is one bolt that has threads left on top of it to mount something any idea which hole this one goes into, been a couple months since i've removed this thing. Thx for the help - Just found out where that stud bolt goes but, need info on why these bolts wont tighten... Also i got a complete new lower gasket set and it came with these 2 really small o ring gaskets like 3/8 to 1/2 maybe i dont remember these anywhere either any info is appreciated.

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post #2 of 19 Old 07-26-2010, 08:11 AM
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Well sorry to say but if I get what your saying you are stripping these bolts out left and right. Oil pan bolts don't need to be tight, just enough to squeeze the gasket out. If they got to one point then felt like they were getting worse, that was the threads going bye bye.

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post #3 of 19 Old 07-26-2010, 01:28 PM
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Have fun heli-coiling the oil pan bolt holes...they are stripped. These should only be torqued to 11 ft/lbs which ain't much at all

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post #4 of 19 Old 07-26-2010, 02:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff_az2001 View Post
Also i got a complete new lower gasket set and it came with these 2 really small o ring gaskets like 3/8 to 1/2 maybe i dont remember these anywhere either any info is appreciated.
One of them is probably for the engine oil dipstick tube. When you pull it, there is an o-ring on the end of it.
The other could be for where the oil pump meets the oil pickup tube though that is about 3/4"

There is also a set of o-ring type oil seals for the front shaft of one of the transmission models. Check that. There are 2 in the set.

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post #5 of 19 Old 07-26-2010, 02:26 PM
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you may be able to get by with fresh bolts, being very careful not to overtighten them.

also check to be sure no gasket material made its way into the holes. Get a dental pick or a thin awl and scrape around the top where the threads stop inside the block to losen up any stuff compressed up there by the bolt.

Either your truck's got balls or it doesn't. No fake plastic scrotum necessary.

Now dakotaless
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post #6 of 19 Old 07-26-2010, 02:33 PM
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Unless the fresh bolts get a good bite, just fix the holes, You do not want to fight an oil leak that you will not be able to fix later. If you are a 4wd vehicle, you will never be able to fix those holes while the engine is fitted so just do it while the engine is out.
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post #7 of 19 Old 07-26-2010, 05:59 PM Thread Starter
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I didn't overtighen them iset the torque to 11 ft like fsm said and did them in order I think I will buy new ones clean the holes and retap them. Ok i see the oring for dipstck there is another one even smaller thx for all the help
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post #8 of 19 Old 07-26-2010, 07:36 PM
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Don't torque it, rubber gaskets you just tighten til it starts to squeeze out. I think the 11ft/lbs is for a cork gasket, unless the factory one is rubber too.

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post #9 of 19 Old 07-26-2010, 07:49 PM
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Check the holes for debris too. That would stop the bolts from advancing and you could strip them before you get a squeeze on the gasket.

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post #10 of 19 Old 07-27-2010, 03:11 PM
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The threads are just tired and that is why they are pulling out. Retaping the holes won't do you any good. Go get a set of heli-coils that are the size you need, drill and tap the holes and be done with it. The heli-coil threads will more than likely be stronger than the original ones. With the engine out this should be a breeze to do

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post #11 of 19 Old 07-29-2010, 09:06 PM
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I got a new oil pan gasket and thought that I would change it out during my next oil change. After a second look at the under carriage it looks pretty much impossible to get the old one off. Can you desribe your experience? Any tricks?

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post #12 of 19 Old 07-29-2010, 10:26 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GOON'S D View Post
I got a new oil pan gasket and thought that I would change it out during my next oil change. After a second look at the under carriage it looks pretty much impossible to get the old one off. Can you desribe your experience? Any tricks?
Yes tear your engine out like I did
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post #13 of 19 Old 07-29-2010, 11:18 PM
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On a 2wd, it might be possible by taking the top nuts off the engine mounts and lifting the engine a bit. On a 4wd I would think it is impossible without dropping the diff/axles. I put a new one on during my rebuild, I was not taking the chance. Good luck with it. Read the FSM and see what it says about it.
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post #14 of 19 Old 07-30-2010, 03:49 AM
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Flat rate is 6 hours on it, you need to remove the front axle. Good thing Dodge made it easy on us... I personally wouldn't replace it unless it is leaking like a sieve.

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post #15 of 19 Old 07-30-2010, 04:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gocartone View Post
Flat rate is 6 hours on it, you need to remove the front axle. Good thing Dodge made it easy on us... I personally wouldn't replace it unless it is leaking like a sieve.
better than a ford design.
"step 1.
remove cab.
see section 1.1"

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