Oil Pan BOLTS won't tighten - Dodge Durango Forum and Dodge Dakota Forums
Register Home Forum Extras Website Features Timeslips Calendar Garage Auto Loans Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

4.7L/4.7L HO/4.7L Gen II Engines Questions regarding the 4.7L V8 engine

Dakota-Durango.com is the premier Dodge Dakota Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
  #1  
Old 07-26-2010, 04:37 AM
jeff_az2001's Avatar
jeff_az2001 jeff_az2001 is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Gilbert,az
Vehicle: durango 2001 slt 4.7l
Posts: 108
Reputation: 10 jeff_az2001 is just getting started
Oil Pan BOLTS won't tighten

Installed my new oil pan gasket put the bolts back in but they dont seem to tighten like they get to one point then loosen, also there is one bolt that has threads left on top of it to mount something any idea which hole this one goes into, been a couple months since i've removed this thing. Thx for the help - Just found out where that stud bolt goes but, need info on why these bolts wont tighten... Also i got a complete new lower gasket set and it came with these 2 really small o ring gaskets like 3/8 to 1/2 maybe i dont remember these anywhere either any info is appreciated.

Last edited by jeff_az2001; 07-26-2010 at 06:15 AM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2  
Old 07-26-2010, 07:11 AM
gocartone's Avatar
gocartone gocartone is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Wisconsin
Vehicle: 2001 Dakota 4x4 R/C
Posts: 2,755
Reputation: 54 gocartone has a spectacular aura about
Well sorry to say but if I get what your saying you are stripping these bolts out left and right. Oil pan bolts don't need to be tight, just enough to squeeze the gasket out. If they got to one point then felt like they were getting worse, that was the threads going bye bye.
__________________
2008 Corvette 485whp
2001 RC 4.7 5-Speed 4x4
2006 Yamaha FZ6
2004 Honda 450R
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3  
Old 07-26-2010, 12:28 PM
l1tech l1tech is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: AZ
Vehicle: 02 Dakota CC 4.7
Posts: 1,206
Reputation: 24 l1tech is just getting started
Have fun heli-coiling the oil pan bolt holes...they are stripped. These should only be torqued to 11 ft/lbs which ain't much at all
__________________
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4  
Old 07-26-2010, 01:14 PM
WestCoastKevin WestCoastKevin is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Vehicle: 2002 Durango SLT+ 4.7L V8
Posts: 449
Reputation: 15 WestCoastKevin is just getting started
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff_az2001 View Post
Also i got a complete new lower gasket set and it came with these 2 really small o ring gaskets like 3/8 to 1/2 maybe i dont remember these anywhere either any info is appreciated.
One of them is probably for the engine oil dipstick tube. When you pull it, there is an o-ring on the end of it.
The other could be for where the oil pump meets the oil pickup tube though that is about 3/4"

There is also a set of o-ring type oil seals for the front shaft of one of the transmission models. Check that. There are 2 in the set.
__________________
Member of the engine rebuild club, HO Cams, 68mm TB by Dwight, SuperChips, Bilstein shocks, 5-45rfe Jeep TCM mod. ... and I clean the windows pretty often.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5  
Old 07-26-2010, 01:26 PM
ThisOldDak ThisOldDak is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Cincy, Ohio
Vehicle: 2010 Nitro SXT
Posts: 546
Reputation: 21 ThisOldDak is just getting started
you may be able to get by with fresh bolts, being very careful not to overtighten them.

also check to be sure no gasket material made its way into the holes. Get a dental pick or a thin awl and scrape around the top where the threads stop inside the block to losen up any stuff compressed up there by the bolt.
__________________
Either your truck's got balls or it doesn't. No fake plastic scrotum necessary.

Now dakotaless
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6  
Old 07-26-2010, 01:33 PM
WestCoastKevin WestCoastKevin is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Vehicle: 2002 Durango SLT+ 4.7L V8
Posts: 449
Reputation: 15 WestCoastKevin is just getting started
Unless the fresh bolts get a good bite, just fix the holes, You do not want to fight an oil leak that you will not be able to fix later. If you are a 4wd vehicle, you will never be able to fix those holes while the engine is fitted so just do it while the engine is out.
Kevin
__________________
Member of the engine rebuild club, HO Cams, 68mm TB by Dwight, SuperChips, Bilstein shocks, 5-45rfe Jeep TCM mod. ... and I clean the windows pretty often.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7  
Old 07-26-2010, 04:59 PM
jeff_az2001's Avatar
jeff_az2001 jeff_az2001 is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Gilbert,az
Vehicle: durango 2001 slt 4.7l
Posts: 108
Reputation: 10 jeff_az2001 is just getting started
I didn't overtighen them iset the torque to 11 ft like fsm said and did them in order I think I will buy new ones clean the holes and retap them. Ok i see the oring for dipstck there is another one even smaller thx for all the help
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8  
Old 07-26-2010, 06:36 PM
gocartone's Avatar
gocartone gocartone is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Wisconsin
Vehicle: 2001 Dakota 4x4 R/C
Posts: 2,755
Reputation: 54 gocartone has a spectacular aura about
Don't torque it, rubber gaskets you just tighten til it starts to squeeze out. I think the 11ft/lbs is for a cork gasket, unless the factory one is rubber too.
__________________
2008 Corvette 485whp
2001 RC 4.7 5-Speed 4x4
2006 Yamaha FZ6
2004 Honda 450R
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9  
Old 07-26-2010, 06:49 PM
WestCoastKevin WestCoastKevin is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Vehicle: 2002 Durango SLT+ 4.7L V8
Posts: 449
Reputation: 15 WestCoastKevin is just getting started
Check the holes for debris too. That would stop the bolts from advancing and you could strip them before you get a squeeze on the gasket.
__________________
Member of the engine rebuild club, HO Cams, 68mm TB by Dwight, SuperChips, Bilstein shocks, 5-45rfe Jeep TCM mod. ... and I clean the windows pretty often.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10  
Old 07-27-2010, 02:11 PM
l1tech l1tech is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: AZ
Vehicle: 02 Dakota CC 4.7
Posts: 1,206
Reputation: 24 l1tech is just getting started
The threads are just tired and that is why they are pulling out. Retaping the holes won't do you any good. Go get a set of heli-coils that are the size you need, drill and tap the holes and be done with it. The heli-coil threads will more than likely be stronger than the original ones. With the engine out this should be a breeze to do
__________________
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11  
Old 07-29-2010, 08:06 PM
GOON'S D GOON'S D is offline
Registered User

 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: MW, Mass
Vehicle: 2001 Dodge Durango SLT
Posts: 3,605
Reputation: 10 GOON'S D is just getting started
I got a new oil pan gasket and thought that I would change it out during my next oil change. After a second look at the under carriage it looks pretty much impossible to get the old one off. Can you desribe your experience? Any tricks?
__________________
2001 Dodge Durango SLT 4.7L V8
May '05 Truck of the Month
5 DOOR WHORE #1

Click for Pics!!

Westin Bull Bar, PIAA 540's, Billet Fuel Door, 3" Custom CAI w/ K&N filter, Chrome Differential Cover
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12  
Old 07-29-2010, 09:26 PM
jeff_az2001's Avatar
jeff_az2001 jeff_az2001 is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Gilbert,az
Vehicle: durango 2001 slt 4.7l
Posts: 108
Reputation: 10 jeff_az2001 is just getting started
Quote:
Originally Posted by GOON'S D View Post
I got a new oil pan gasket and thought that I would change it out during my next oil change. After a second look at the under carriage it looks pretty much impossible to get the old one off. Can you desribe your experience? Any tricks?
Yes tear your engine out like I did
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13  
Old 07-29-2010, 10:18 PM
WestCoastKevin WestCoastKevin is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Vehicle: 2002 Durango SLT+ 4.7L V8
Posts: 449
Reputation: 15 WestCoastKevin is just getting started
On a 2wd, it might be possible by taking the top nuts off the engine mounts and lifting the engine a bit. On a 4wd I would think it is impossible without dropping the diff/axles. I put a new one on during my rebuild, I was not taking the chance. Good luck with it. Read the FSM and see what it says about it.
Kevin
__________________
Member of the engine rebuild club, HO Cams, 68mm TB by Dwight, SuperChips, Bilstein shocks, 5-45rfe Jeep TCM mod. ... and I clean the windows pretty often.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #14  
Old 07-30-2010, 02:49 AM
gocartone's Avatar
gocartone gocartone is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Wisconsin
Vehicle: 2001 Dakota 4x4 R/C
Posts: 2,755
Reputation: 54 gocartone has a spectacular aura about
Flat rate is 6 hours on it, you need to remove the front axle. Good thing Dodge made it easy on us... I personally wouldn't replace it unless it is leaking like a sieve.
__________________
2008 Corvette 485whp
2001 RC 4.7 5-Speed 4x4
2006 Yamaha FZ6
2004 Honda 450R
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #15  
Old 07-30-2010, 03:49 AM
Shimrra's Avatar
Shimrra Shimrra is offline
110 HP, 11.1 MPG. FML
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Middlebury, CT
Vehicle: '93, 3.9L, '92 3.5L
Posts: 4,365
Reputation: 69 Shimrra has a spectacular aura about
Send a message via AIM to Shimrra Send a message via MSN to Shimrra Send a message via Yahoo to Shimrra Send a message via Skype™ to Shimrra
Quote:
Originally Posted by gocartone View Post
Flat rate is 6 hours on it, you need to remove the front axle. Good thing Dodge made it easy on us... I personally wouldn't replace it unless it is leaking like a sieve.
better than a ford design.
"step 1.
remove cab.
see section 1.1"
__________________
'93 Dak, V6 Auto RWD;
V8TB, E-fan, and a bad smoking habit.

IN THE WORKS:
'92 318 swap, coming closer to completion every dime I can squirrel
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Dodge Durango Forum and Dodge Dakota Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 08:33 PM.



Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.
Copyright 2001-2010 Dakota-Durango Archive