Running hot... really hot. - Dakota Durango Forum
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post #1 of 93 Old 06-29-2010, 06:36 AM Thread Starter
Jasoon
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Running hot... really hot.

Ok, so I realise it's a 9 year old truck with 90,000 miles on it, but it's also been well maintained. Even the coolant was changed last year, well before the interval.

Tonight when I got home from driving to and from Branson to SPFD, 1 hour each way, and towing my boat a total of 6 miles, and running the ac, the truck was literally on it's last leg. It's like it had run a marathon after smoking a pack of cigs. I opened the hood, and although there was no steam, every surface under the hood was hot. Obvoulsly hot engine = less power.
You would think with the heat extractor hood, fairly new coolant, and running at highway speeds that the truck wouldn't be running so hot.

Should I add a 180 degree thermostat to the truck, would that be of any benefit? Could the coolant have "failed" should I have that checked?

Can I trust the factory temp gauge? It didn't read over straight up.

( There's no way this could be connected to recently installed 4.10 gears? My RPm's aren't that much higher...)

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post #2 of 93 Old 06-29-2010, 06:43 AM
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180 stat ain't gonna help....is radiator clean and flowing inside?

is radiator correct for towing and extra load? Higher RPM's will create more heat also

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post #3 of 93 Old 06-29-2010, 09:04 AM
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Make sure there isn't any air still trapped in the system.
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post #4 of 93 Old 06-29-2010, 10:26 AM
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Quote:
Red Hot, Red Hot
To the top, we are Red hot
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qZN5h8mQmoo

I had the same problem you're describing...

My truck was running hot and would overheat with the a/c on, I flushed the radiator and switched to an electric fan from a 2000 windstar Im running both fans at top speed and I can open the hood or touch the fenders without burning myself

before doing both these things I had heat from the engine coming into the cab and I'd actually start sweating by standing near the front wheel wells with my truck running from the excessive heat it was producing,

my engine probably has over 200k miles on it and was completely rebuilt a month ago, I'm running it without a t-stat but I'm going to make time to put one in

factory temp gauge (before t-stat and e-fan) at operating temperature normally shows around 212F, if it goes over that it means there could be a problem, don't trust that gauge though, try some aftermarket gauges for proper readings

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post #5 of 93 Old 06-29-2010, 03:23 PM
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Engine bay temperature is no indication of an engine running hot or not. If the temp gauge never went over halfway, the coolant isn't boiling, it has never overheated before then I think that you can trust the temp gauge. There are some engine components that are alot hotter than the engines coolant temp, that along with a nice warm day and the demand that you were placing on the truck at the time would make for one hot engine bay.

Did the truck just seem a little sluggish or what????
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post #6 of 93 Old 06-29-2010, 06:14 PM
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Yeah if it's hot it'll sound like a toilet flushing; because your coolent will boil into the overflow tank.
If it sounds like a jet engine and feels sluggish, welcome to summer baby, the fan clutch engages and sucks juice and hot air is less dense then cold air thus bringing in less fuel and making less power.
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post #7 of 93 Old 06-30-2010, 02:00 AM
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Yeah, never past 12 o'clock on the gauge isn't that hot. I wouldn't worry about it.

I was hauling my trailer with the RZR and two other quads last weekend (total weight 3-3300lb)...came across a windy ass long hill. Probably a mile and a half up, 25mph tops in 2nd gear. Shortly before the top, the gauge creeped over 12 o-clock and the trans started locking the TC in 2nd which means trans temp over 240 and/or coolant temp over 244.

If I hauled this weight often, I'd look into doing something with the cooling system. But, I think it fared pretty well given that the TC generates a ton of heat when unlocked and I wasn't moving fast enough to get much air flow...never mind the restrictive SS inserts.
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post #8 of 93 Old 06-30-2010, 05:42 AM
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Sounds about right. Did you mix the coolant 50-50 MAX? Less is actually slightly better, you could also add Redline Water Wetter or a similar product to help heat transfer.

The under hood temps sounds right though, hot day and towing = heat

Though power shouldn't have decreased that much.
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post #9 of 93 Old 06-30-2010, 01:58 PM
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You may have a catcon that is getting hot and melting down causing the sluggishness.
Flush the cooling system, INCLUDING backflushing the heater core. Coolant always flows through it and contributes to coolant capacity.
If you have only a single row radiator, you need at double row for towing.
A friend had a 90s Ram van, 318. Always overheated in the summer. It had a single row rad, once it got old and dirty it wasn't enough to cool the engine.
A new double row unit cured it.

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post #10 of 93 Old 06-30-2010, 03:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caulk04 View Post
Yeah, never past 12 o'clock on the gauge isn't that hot. I wouldn't worry about it.

I was hauling my trailer with the RZR and two other quads last weekend (total weight 3-3300lb)...came across a windy ass long hill. Probably a mile and a half up, 25mph tops in 2nd gear. Shortly before the top, the gauge creeped over 12 o-clock and the trans started locking the TC in 2nd which means trans temp over 240 and/or coolant temp over 244.

If I hauled this weight often, I'd look into doing something with the cooling system. But, I think it fared pretty well given that the TC generates a ton of heat when unlocked and I wasn't moving fast enough to get much air flow...never mind the restrictive SS inserts.
Transmission doesnt go into limp mode until it reaches 260+ degrees. And TC temps can get up to 300 degrees normally. Thats why you dont put a temp sensor on the pressure line of the tranny. Best place to put it is in the pan. Sounds like you need to buy my Earls cooler. http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/...d.php?t=118531
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post #11 of 93 Old 06-30-2010, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pacofortaco View Post
Sounds about right. Did you mix the coolant 50-50 MAX? Less is actually slightly better, you could also add Redline Water Wetter or a similar product to help heat transfer.

The under hood temps sounds right though, hot day and towing = heat

Though power shouldn't have decreased that much.
I run 2 bottles of water wetter with 20/80 antifreeze mix. 20 being antifreeze.
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post #12 of 93 Old 06-30-2010, 04:14 PM
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yup, got a little redline in mine too

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post #13 of 93 Old 06-30-2010, 07:47 PM
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If your cooling system is working properly, Water Wetter, etc won't do you a bit of good.
Guess what closes when the temp drops?

If you have lower than a 192 t-stat and you still run hot you have a mechanical problem.
If you have the 192 and it runs hot and you aren't in the desert, you still have a problem.

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post #14 of 93 Old 06-30-2010, 09:18 PM
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I'm having a similar problem. Every now and then in city driving, mine will creep above 12 o'clock. Oddly, mine hovers right around 180 for a long time, but then it'll start creeping up fairly quickly. I've flushed coolant twice and burped several times. I suspect my radiator is clogged. I'm going to replace it with a 2 core rad and upgrade my e-fan at the same time.
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post #15 of 93 Old 06-30-2010, 09:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoPar Maniac View Post
If your cooling system is working properly, Water Wetter, etc won't do you a bit of good.
Guess what closes when the temp drops?

If you have lower than a 192 t-stat and you still run hot you have a mechanical problem.
If you have the 192 and it runs hot and you aren't in the desert, you still have a problem.
Guess what makes it stay closed more than open? The water wetter.

And if you are running hot you have a problem regardless of what thermo you have. You can run hot from a coolant leak which isnt anything mechanically wrong.

Last edited by Bos-R/T; 06-30-2010 at 09:37 PM.
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