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Old 06-08-2010, 03:50 PM
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Rear pinion seal Leaking

Would anyone be able to help point me in the right direction in regards to changing out rear pinion seal due to a leak in a 03 durango. Detailed directions would be very appreciated. Thanks.
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Old 06-09-2010, 01:35 AM
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i paid 20 canadian for the seal and 1 hr labour. sorry don't have details but i was a cheap job
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Old 06-12-2010, 11:00 AM
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Its not all that hard, but I wouldn't even attempt it without two things... 1) a good set of air tools 2) the factory service manual for your year/model truck. #2 is a must and will answer all your questions an more. Stay away from the cheap aftermarket manuals. They don't go into anywhere near as much detail as the factory service manuals. It was the first purchase I made after buying my truck. Paid for themselves after the third oil change. You can get one via your dealer, or pick one up on ebay. Good luck...

http://www.dodge.com/en/owners/manuals/
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Old 06-21-2010, 05:19 AM
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Haha Just did this on my R/T. When I had the tires replaced they shop found it. I got the part for around $12-$14 from autozone. It took me about an hour or so to swap out. wasn't too bad.

1. Mark the bolt, drive line, and diff case so you get everything lined back up where it was. (not sure how important this step is but I did it so as not to take a chance.)

2. disconnect rear drive line by taking out the 4 bolts on the companion shaft (part that houses the U-joint).

3. remove the retaining nut and washer. (for this I had to ask the guys at the auto shop I use, they said Impact wrench. So I just set the impact gun to loosen and let it fly till the nut backed off.)

4. Use a sliding-hammer-puller tool to remove the companion flange and set it aside.

5. use a seal puller to remove old seal.

6. lube outside of new seal with a little diff fluid. Use a socket the same size as the seal and hit the ratchet side directly in the center of the hole with a ball peen hammer (round end) helps to ensure you keep the seal flat.

7. reinstall companion flange, bolt and washer. ( the FSM tells you to replace the bolt and washer with new ones and torque it to specific torque. The auto shop guy I spoke to said to just use the impact wrench to tighten it down. This guy has been doing it for years longer than I have so I trusted what he said. I tightened mine with the impact gun, at so far it's been somewhere in the 1500-200miles range without any problems.)

8. Reinstall drive line to original marked position.

*notes*
a- I removed rear tires to make sure everything rotated freely (without binding) before and after the seal replacement.
b- you should also plan on draining/refilling the diff, as mine pissed out fluid until I put the new seal in. Also this will ensure the correct amount of fluid when you are done.
c- I used bundling twine to tie the rear drive shaft up by the fuel tank for this.

That's all I can remember right now but If I think of anymore tips I will let you know...

Just did this like 3 weeks ago.
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Old 06-21-2010, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by MrMcQ View Post
(not sure how important this step is but I did it so as not to take a chance.)
I don't know either, but would love to know.


Quote:
Originally Posted by MrMcQ View Post
3. remove the retaining nut and washer. (for this I had to ask the guys at the auto shop I use, they said Impact wrench. So I just set the impact gun to loosen and let it fly till the nut backed off.)

7. reinstall companion flange, bolt and washer. ( the FSM tells you to replace the bolt and washer with new ones and torque it to specific torque. The auto shop guy I spoke to said to just use the impact wrench to tighten it down. This guy has been doing it for years longer than I have so I trusted what he said. I tightened mine with the impact gun, at so far it's been somewhere in the 1500-200miles range without any problems.)
Not too sure about using the impact gun to take the nut off and definitely not to put it back on. The nut determines the preload for the pinion bearing and the crush-sleave inside the diff. So if you use an impact wrench to remove the nut, you won't be able to (easily) tell how many turns it took to remove the nut. If you use an impact wrench to put the nut back on, you'll almost certainly over tighten the nut which can lead to premature bearing failure.

The key is to put the nut back in the same spot it was in before you removed it so the preload on the pinion bearing, etc, is the same.

Check out this video...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pCy0X...next=1&index=3
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Old 06-21-2010, 04:59 PM
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Well I didn't know about the vent line thing so I'll have to check mine the next time I change the oil.

AS far as taking it off with a breaker bar and ratchet, good luck, mine was pretty rusted and didn't want to come off with a breaker bar, (that led to my initial asking for help at the shop.) So I went with the advice and just used an impact gun. FWIW he told me do just let it spin with the impact gun and not to set the parking brake. Maybe this help prevent the overtightening, I dunno. I guess I will find out if I end up having to rebuild a rear end. But I haven't noticed any problems like I said in about the 1500-2000 miles since the change.

I noticed that in the video they set the parking brake, this probably would have been a closer to factory manual approach. I don't know.
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Old 06-22-2010, 10:05 PM
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Good info all around. I need to look at doing mine.
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Old 02-05-2013, 02:48 AM
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Thanks for the video link. I just did the F&R brakes on my 2001 Durango and noticed
the gear oil fling stains on the underside. It had a hot gear oil smell after long drives.
I mis-attributed this to an axl seal leaking on the drum brakes as i had a brake pulsing
like a warped drum/rotor to go with it. It was actully getting flung on the exhaust pipe.
Oh well, atleast the brakes are done, and thanks to the video, i won't be using the
impact driver for the seal replacement.
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