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  #1  
Old 04-12-2010, 12:19 AM
roysdurango roysdurango is offline
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Question 2003 durango 4.7 idle

i have a 2003 durango with a 4.7 iwas working on my hvac blower not working and disconnected the battery. when i re-connected my battery and started my durango it idled like crap. it idled very rough and idled at very low rpms (about 700-900 at first and down less than 500-400). after it would get down very low it got rougher and most of times quit. also annoying to have it quit when driving when you slow down to make a turn into a street or driveway. anyone know what may cause this , how to fix, things to try, what the idle is suppose to be any way to adjust the idle up. help please money is thin bills are thick would like to be able to fix myself ok mechanical skills help
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  #2  
Old 04-12-2010, 01:30 AM
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just disconnect the battery again. then let it idle for a few minutes to relearn it. my dakota 4.7 idles at 500 to 550. but never had it stall on me.
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Old 04-12-2010, 02:44 AM
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could be a dirty throttle body and iac port
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Old 04-12-2010, 02:05 PM
roysdurango roysdurango is offline
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do have the vehicle running while i disconnect the negative or off
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Old 04-12-2010, 02:07 PM
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can i clean the throttle body and what is the iac port where is it and how do i clean it
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Old 04-12-2010, 03:30 PM
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you can clean the throttle body with carb cleaner and the iac port is on the side of the throttle body
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Old 04-12-2010, 09:53 PM
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just keep it running for about 10 minutes and the computer will relearn itself. mine does that every time i disconnect my battery too.
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  #8  
Old 04-13-2010, 02:08 PM
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il give those a try after my wife limps it home from work this afternoon and will reply with my outcome in the mean time im still open to suggestions if that dont work also so i am suppose to start the vehicle and then remove the battery cable and run it for about ten min is this correct
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Old 04-13-2010, 05:07 PM
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NO, Never run a vehicle with the battery disconnected. The battery acts to smooth out the noise from the alternator (remember, the alternator is an AC generator). Disconnecting the battery once the vehicle is running could induce a lot of noise into the electrical system and possible damage electronics.

Leave everything off and disconnect the battery. While you're waiting, you can clean the TB as mentioned. If you really want to go all out, you can take the TB off and take off the IAC motor and TPS and really give the thing a good cleaning but you probably don't need to go that far.

Reconnect the battery and start it up and let it idle. With the battery disconnected for a while, the PCM resets. It will monitor the engine and relearn what it needs to do to make it idle properly.

If that doesn't work, next step would probably be to replace the IAC (Idle Air Control) motor and the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor). Disconnect battery again, replace sensors, reconnect battery, start and let it idle.

I've seen many 4.7 idle issues in the past rectified by replacing the IAC, TPS or both.
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Old 04-14-2010, 07:16 PM
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he guys thanks for tour help and hanging with me i cleaned the throttle body and the iac valve this morn. alot of gummy oil or carbon or what ever it was was in their cleaned it out with alot of carb cleaner and a rag and q-tips put it back together and to my supprise it ran fine idle is about 600 test drove it for about ten miles with alot of start stopping with the ac on to put a load on it and it never died on me hopefully all is good with the durango the real test is later when the wife drives it and starts whining ( i think she wants a new one ) but like i said thanks again another question what type/brand of plugs do you all recomend and is that the coil on top and do they just pull off of the plug like a normal spark plug wire
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Old 04-14-2010, 08:08 PM
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Good to hear.

Factory plugs are Champions. People have mixed feelings about them, some keep running them, others think they're crap.....

NGK is popular for the 4.7. I don't know what the specific number is. Many people, myself included, use NGK 2262's. IIRC, they are not listed for the 4.7 from NGK, you have to ask for them specifically but it runs very nice with them. Avoid Autolite plugs as people have had issues with those. Also, do not use platinum plugs, the motor doesn't like them.

Yes, those are the ignition coils on top of each plug, 8 total. They are held on by a nut that you have to take off then they should pull out. Make sure to blow out around them with compressed air so you don't get crap in your cylinders.

I've attached the section from the FSM on coils.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 8D-15 4.7 Coils.pdf (132.1 KB, 25 views)
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  #12  
Old 04-14-2010, 10:33 PM
roysdurango roysdurango is offline
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Question

thanks appreciate the info on the plugs and the attatchment(great step by step and large clear pictures). you said stay away from platnum plugs what about the ones with multiple electrodes and should the engine be warm and should anti-seize be applied to the threads along with ?any dialectric greese on the connecter????
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  #13  
Old 04-14-2010, 10:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roysdurango View Post
thanks appreciate the info on the plugs and the attatchment(great step by step and large clear pictures). you said stay away from platnum plugs what about the ones with multiple electrodes and should the engine be warm and should anti-seize be applied to the threads along with ?any dialectric greese on the connecter????
I have NGK iridum IX and truck seems to love them. I will always say NGK makes the best plug out there besides denso. champion and autolites I view as subpar almost like fram oil filters
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  #14  
Old 04-14-2010, 11:13 PM
roysdurango roysdurango is offline
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what about the antiseize and dielectric greese
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  #15  
Old 04-15-2010, 01:59 AM
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what about the antiseize and dielectric greese
I would use the anti seize as dont want to chance tearing out the aluminum threads
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