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97 Dakota won't start

26K views 17 replies 8 participants last post by  TazRango 
#1 ·
Hello everyone let me introduce myself my name is Edson Zuleta, but everyone calls me Nacho.

I have a 97 Dodge Dakota that isn't starting, I will list the things that I have changed on the truck to help further diagnose the problem.

Crankshaft Sensor
Fuel Pump
Map Sensor
Engine Coil
Spark Plugs
Oil Change
New Battery

No check engine light. I might be missing some other things I've changed, will let you know if you mention it.
 
#3 ·
Rather than throwing parts at it you need to do some troubleshooting. Start with the Auto Shutdown Relay. If you turn the key to on (not trying to start, just the run position) you should hear the fuel pump for a second or two. If you hear it, then you need to check fuel pressure. If you don't you need to find out why. Work from there.
 
#9 ·
I also tried changing the relay with a relay of the same model # with that one and nothing changes, I made sure the relay hooked up at the ASD slot worked by putting it on the starter relay slot and it wanted to crank, without a relay in the STARTER RELAY SLOT nothing happened.
 
#4 ·
I am with JimLusk on this one, diagnose it a little further, 3 things are needed for a basic engine to run: fuel, spark and compression. Check to make sure your engine has those three and go from there.

Also, is it a no crank no start or crank no stark, does the engine try to turn over or you get nothing when you turn the key (dead silence)?
 
#6 ·
Have you made CERTAIN the engine is in time? Besides that, have you run a pressure test on the fuel system? When you turn the key on, you'll hear a short pulse of the fuel pump charging the fuel lines. This may be why it's running for a short time. If the pump doesn't work in the run position, the truck won't run.
 
#11 ·
The cam sensor is not the same as the crank sensor... You say you changed the crank sensor so you know where that is. The cam sensor is under the distributor cap and rotor, it's a thin black disc with a single pig tail connector. It's also known as the pick up coil, pick up plate or distributor coil.
 
#13 ·
You should get a code if the cam sensor is bad. Make sure you have spark. Make sure you have fuel. Make sure you have voltage to the injectors (the PCM provides the ground for them).
 
#16 ·
Hello everyone, first of all I want to say thank you very much to all who shared their knowledge and wisdom here.

Secondly, I want to let you guys know that we finally got our Dakota up and running and I would like to tell you guys what it was, but I would be lying if I said I knew what was wrong with it not starting. So chill out and wait for the next episode and I will tell you... jk.

Lastly I would like to say that after I changed all of the sensors and plugs and wires and all of that good stuff I took it to a guy who would inspect it more thoroughly. What he ended up finding out was that the CATALYTIC CONVERTER was all clogged up and that was the reason the truck didn't want to start, so after removing that part right before the cat converter the truck started right up. Something to consider with those with the same problem.

PS: We can't really say that it was the cat converter being clogged up because we did so much stuff to it before it actually got started but at least we can say we got it started :-D Thank you all so much have a great day.
 
#17 ·
Make sure your battery terminals are clean and that your battery is charged.

Be sure your alarm is reset. Close the driver's door and lock and unlock the door several times with the key. If the alarm activates and is not reset, it has the auto shutdown relay prevent the vehicle from starting because it thinks the vehicle is being stolen. If the truck starts then shuts down, this might be what's going on also.

If that doesn't do it, check the 30 amp auto shutdown relay fuse in the fuse block under the hood. Replace it if it's blown.

If that's ok, Check the auto shutdown relay in the board forward of the fuse. It's one of several identical rectangular relays. Switch it with one of the same relays and see if the vehicle starts. A relay costs about 8.00 at Pep Boys, and is a common part.

If the vehicle starts and shuts down, check the wire between the auto shutdown relay and the ECM/PCM for continuity. If no power is going between the ASR and the ECM/PCM, you might get an error message. A break in the wire will give this error also.

It's probably the ECM/PCM. It manages all the systems, tells the auto shutdown feature to activate, controls fuel pump, sensors, alarm, the works. When it goes bad, basically nothing works right, causing many to start replacing parts. The unit costs about $175.00 online and takes about 20 minutes to replace, it just bolts on with 3 bolts on the right side of the engine compartment above the right front wheel well.. They are an electrical component and go bad. Do not get a junkyard unit or a unit from another vehicle and switch them out. The supplier needs your odometer reading and VIN number to program the unit before sending it to you. It's programmed for your vehicle, engine, transmission, and other components.

I replaced mine and the truck runs better than it ever did.

I hope this helps.
 
#18 ·
What part of "We found the problem and fixed it" don't you understand? Did you not read the thread at all?

Stop bumping these old threads and telling people to waste money. It's rarely the PCM. It's usually some MUCH CHEAPER sensor connected to it. And you ABSOLUTELY CAN use a junkyard PCM, as long as you don't have factory security. If the VIN is mismatched it MAY cause the ABS light to come on, but it won't cause the truck not to run.
 
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