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Brand new engine overheating.

4K views 34 replies 5 participants last post by  Joeymoore4394 
#1 ·
I have had my 2001 dakota for about 2 years. Has 219k. The first motor lost compression on cyl 8 so I bought one at AutoZone. Surfire engine. It started overheating about a week after install. I bled the coolant. Replaced thermostat then water pump. Then radiator. Then both hoses. No luck. The only thing I can fathom is that it came with a cracked head or gasket. Any other ideas?
 
#4 ·
That's what originally make me think pump. I thought maybe the fins were worn out.
Water pump "fins" do not wear out. The first sign of a water pump failing will be it starting to leak. Now if someone were to continue to drive it after it started leaking (because of worn bearings) then the shaft and pulley will get more and more loose. Eventually you might be able to grind the impeller into the housing and wear the fins off but that usually only happens when you have a moron driving it totally oblivious to the fact that the engine is ready to lock up from overheating.
 
#17 ·
I have had my 2001 dakota for about 2 years. Has 219k. The first motor lost compression on cyl 8 so I bought one at AutoZone. Surfire engine. It started overheating about a week after install. I bled the coolant. Replaced thermostat then water pump. Then radiator. Then both hoses. No luck. The only thing I can fathom is that it came with a cracked head or gasket. Any other ideas?
Go back to autozone and rent an engine block tester. It's a five minute test... if the blue liquid turns yellow or green, the HG is bad.
Will I need to flush the coolant after that? Will that stuff gum up if the hg isn't bad
 
#18 · (Edited)
#21 ·
I would be livid. That's a cracked block or blown gasket. Well, you can probably get it replaced under warranty, but they won't help you with the labor. Doesn't hurt to ask though. It is Autozone, right? I'd run my complaint up the ladder to corporate. Did you install it yourself, or pay to have it done?
 
#25 ·
Mine failed the block chemical test too. No overheat, truck runs excellent... I just keep losing a bit of coolant every month. That was the only symptom. I pressure tested, etc. and found no external leak. You'd think it would have failed the radiator pressure test, but it didn't. The leak is very slight, but that chemical test is quite effective and I'm glad I did it. so I'm catching it way early. I rented the tester from Autozone and had to buy the fluid from Napa, just like you did. I'm going to keep the block tester though, I like it that much and will test any used car before purchase.

With regard to my leak, I'm going to try a block sealant. I'd really like to pull it down and rebuild, but this engine has over 265K. If I pull the heads off, I'd have remove the chains, then it would be a sin not to replace those and other parts. It's more money than I want to put into the truck, although it's one of the cleanest around. I'm going to try K&W permanent block seal. While it's in the system, I will disconnect the heater core and loop the heater hoses together, bypassing it. I will also remove the thermostat. Finally, I plan on borescoping the cylinders to see which one had the leak. Once I find it, I'll pull the plug and injector for it. That way the the sealer has no combustion back pressure. Hopefully that will form a good seal.
 
#26 ·
That's probably similar to what I would have done if it was my old engine. I spent over a year looking for this truck and I'm planning on giving it to my son. Its one of 2 trucks I've ever seen like it. 4 door 4x4 v8 5 speed. They're hard to find for sure. I literally spent more on this engine than I paid for the truck though.
 
#33 ·
So far the new engine is runnin good no ticks leaks or overheating. Called surefire yesterday. Been about 3 weeks since I returned the motor to AutoZone. They said they haven't gotten it yet. So I'm still waiting on almost 1200 dollars to be reimbursed. Surefire will only pay 800 But the manager at AutoZone said he should be able to get me the rest.
 
#34 ·
Gotcha. Well, I'm halfway through my block seal repair. I used the K&W stuff in the green bottle and it's been sitting there drying for a few days now. I will flush it out this evening and put back in coolant, then run another block test.

Last week I borescoped the cylinders and saw what I thought was wetness in cylinder 5. Wasn't confirmed till I shone a UV light down in it. Turns out coolant has a slight glow under UV. It was going out the tailpipe because the oil passed the sizzle test (drip heated oil from dipstick in a spoon, if it sizzles, it has water in it). I pulled out the plug and disconnected the injector prior to pouring in the stuff. That prevents combustion back pressure from pushing back the sealer on such a small leak. Also disconnected heater core and flushed radiator with water immediately after. While I had the engine running, I ran the AC and blocked up the radiator with cardboard. Wanted to create a bit of overheat so the coolant pressure would rise.

Fingers crossed for this evening.
 
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