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2 questions- 4wd drive / pinion noise

2K views 8 replies 3 participants last post by  theJester517 
#1 ·
1997 4WD - The pinion bearing is screaming like crazy, I put the truck up on jack stands and ran the truck and the noise is definitely coming from the pinion. My question is, if I attempt to do this and I just replace the bearings and set the preload using the original shim(s) the pattern on the ring gear should technically be the same correct?

2nd with the truck was on jack stands and in drive I noticed just the right rear wheel was spinning the drivers side was barely turning. I put the truck in 4WD and the drivers front was spinning but not the passenger front? Is this do to open diffs? 4wd doesn't work correctly either, in the air it seems to work, on the ground seems like its pushing the right front tire and it struggles to move? Looked at the front diff and I don't see the vacuum intermediate shaft part. My axle is solid, so I do not know if its vacuum actuated if so where the hell is it? New truck I bought it 2 weeks ago, but has issues as you can see

Thanks,

Anthony '97 4WD Dakota 113K
 
#2 ·
They stopped using the vacuum CAD system before 97 because it sucked something awful. Honestly don't even know if Dakotas ever had it - I think it was only on the Dana 44 Rams. Yes, open diffs will only spin one wheel on each axle. If you're having pulling issues I would suspect the hub/axle bearings or brakes first.

Which rear do you have?

Rebuilding a rear end is not fun, especially if you've never done it before. It's very fiddly with brand new gears - with worn gears is even worse, and if you do it wrong you'll trash your gears.
 
#3 ·
Well the early 90's 4x4 Dakota's had the CAD system. I believe my truck has the 8.25 rear end. I have to look in the glove box again to confirm but I think that's it. I have been reading and watching a lot of videos and I think i'm going to attempt the task of changing the bearings, both the carrier and the pinion since I'll be in there. I have the have the backlash adjuster tool and well as a dial indicator, I am mechanically inclined so hopefully all goes well. I can not take this noise, f-ing horrible

The wheel bearing can cause the a lock up of the wheel when turning (wheel turned fully) at 5 mph? Damn thing feel like its in 4wd when in 2wd? I don't feel it driving straight, no noise either

I also have an abs/brake light on. Is there a sensor on the diff like the early Dakota's? Sensors at the wheels? If you, does anyone have the resistance values that I should get for the sensors? I ordered a repair manual, but it hasn't arrived


Thanks,
Anthony
 
#4 ·
Alright I have a 97 4WD, the ABS/Brake light has something to do with the speed sensor that only our year truck has, they did away with it after 97. I had that issue at point when I first bought the truck years ago, I can't remember but it might have also been my effed up ebrake which I needed to fix because mines a stick, thats just food for thought... My pinion whined since the time I bought the truck (165K) to the time I blew the bearings out (208K) and it slung a whole lot of gear oil too.
For identifying purposes, you can A - look at the glove box, if the sticker is still there and granted its the original rear, B - axle tag on one of the ten bolts on the pumpkin cover, C - run the VIN. You're truck as a 4WD won't be the 3.21 rear so you either have 3.55 or 3.92, It will be 8.25 and I had this argument with my mom at the dealer over ordering a posi rear, its a 29 spline. Don't get caught up on is 97 a 27 or 29, its 29. Both diffs are open on your truck so at best you're gonna have 2WD if you've projectiled your truck onto an iceberg (ask me how I know). If you're gonna change all the carrier out I hope you went for something posi, I just ordered mine off ebay because I needed my truck back ASAP when i blew the rear and the shop screwed up finding an original one. I have a 97 Factory service manual if you need any information, if you bought a Haynes they won't even venture near the rear axle. The 4WD doesn't feel like anything in our truck until you either have the wheels turned out or you're flying through the snow and realizing that you're somehow still on the road, it probably is working. When turning the truck with start to jerk especially with the stick, you feel the powertrain bouncing in your hand.

Let me know if you any help or any photos from the service manual, I know not everyone is going to go for the 75 dollars to buy it
 
#5 ·
Thanks TheJester - I actually work in Westchester, Metro-North.. Maybe you can give me a hand? I bought the original '97 Dodge book, so it will have all the rear directions that I need. My diff is a 8.25 limited slip. It does work too, got a little sideways today and both rear wheels spun. Not on jack stands, but the load did transfer. I am only changing the bearings, $100 not the entire carrier. I am not going to dump too much $ into her, just want a good work truck. Like I said though, the right front still is chirping on the road when the wheel is fully locked to the right or left to exact. I have to pull the wheel still, but I have a feeling that it may be the axle shaft possibly.


Anthony,
 
#6 ·
Jester I actually work in Westchester. Maybe you can give me a hand one day. lol I bought the '97 Dodge book so it should have everything I need. I am not changing the whole carrier just the bearing and the pinion bearings for $100. My diff is the 8.25 lsd. The limited slip does work, tried it today. Not sure of the ratio though. Checked the truck today and whether the truck is fully right or left the right front skips and struggles to roll while turned? Maybe it's an axle? Brake feel like sh*t too so maybe Taz has a point too, just weird it only happens when the wheel is fully locked. It may be th transfer case.

Anthony
 
#7 ·
It's supposed to do that, both tires are being spun at the same speed yet to make that sharp of a turn when the wheels are locked, the outer tire has to spin a lot more to make the turn and the inner tire essentially 'pivots' in place. Just try making a turn in and out of 4wd, the turning radius should be much larger in 4wd. I'd be happy to meet up and help you out one day as long as its not now in this frigid NY cold. As far as the rear bearings go I did so much research into it but never actually did it, I believe you're supposed to get a torque meter and measure the torque on the pinion after you drop the drive shaft so you can return it to that and then the bearings and seals and collars all get crushed in there but match the same depth so the pinion to ring mesh lines up just the same and then you can get all fancy with plastigauge and all that fun stuff if you want.
 
#8 ·
Sorry about the double post. I hit reply and didn't see it post. So you are telling me when my truck is in 2wd I am suppose to feel right front chirping ? In 4wd I understand that because all wheels are spinning at the same speed, but in 2wd the front diff is suppose to be able to rotate the wheels at different speeds when the transfer case isn't engaged. I need to lift the truck with 1 wheel off the ground to see if the wheel spins free in 2wd., then put it in 4wd and see if it locks. It's friggin cold in NY going down to -7 this weekend so it will have to wait!


Thanks,
Anthony
 
#9 ·
I apologize I didn't realize it was happening in 2WD, yeah that's odd but with our weather I doubt its worth doing something about now...
 
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