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rear axle id help?

80K views 15 replies 8 participants last post by  synpsycho 
#1 ·
hello i have a 98 rango with the 5.2 i was wondering what rear end i have and all and possible upgrades...yes its a 4x4 as are all 98s as i hear...i have an id tag saying 0058 and one that says 3.9 so im figuring i have 3.92 gears...so what would my front have...im figuring the same...i wanna alittle more torque and get up and go with it and upgrade my gears...so im figuring i need to redo the gears in front and rear...and also did my truck come with a lsd since its a 4x4??? and did the put the 3.92's cause my stock tire size is 31x10.5r15...and if i change my gears would it be harder to push those tires or easier??? i know how to swap parts for parts...but changing shit on a 4x4 is different for me...and ive helped people install gears in like mustangs and shit but they did the math...any help and advice would be helpful and thanks
 
#4 ·
Metal tags were placed under (until 1999?) the cover bolts to identify the axle type and ratio. The 3.9 denotes 3.92:1, while 3.5 indicates a 3.55:1 axle. Since you have a 4x4 you'll have the same ratio in both axles. And yes, all 1998 Durangos were 4x4. 1999 introduced the 4x2 in the line.

If the rear axle's cover has 10 bolts it is an 8.25" carrier, and 12 bolts are on the 9.25" carrier.

When the truck was built there was also a (paper) label put onto the left end of the axle tube which listed the gear ratio and whether it is open or LSD. Being a label it is likely it is long gone. It's still perfectly intact on my 2001 Durango.

So hopefully the option label is still inside the glovebox door. The options decode like this: DRA = 8.25 Corporate Axle, DRB = 9.25 Corporate Axle, DMC= 3.21 Ratio, DMD = 3.55 Axle Ratio, DMH = 3.92 Axle Ratio, DSA = Trac-Lok/Anti-Spin Differential

It looks from the parts catalog that the 8.25" axle wasn't introduced in the Durango until 2000.
 
#5 ·
I don't have the label on anymore...in the glove box says LJCE-TRIM CODE DGB- STD DUTY 4SOD AUTO TRANS PCN-PRIMARY PAINT QCN-SECONDARY PAINT...like I said metal tags on trans are 0058 and 3.9 and its a 12 bolt cover...so I'm still trying to figure out what is in my rear end
 
#6 ·
You have a 9.25 with 3.92 gears. Jack up the ass end, and put it in neutral with the e-brake off, spin a tire, if they go the opposite direction it's open, if they go the same directions it's LSD.
 
#8 ·
It's open...jacked up rear end put truck in neutral and spun the tire one moved with the driveshaft...put it in park spun again and the other tire moved the other way...so next question is where's a good place to find a locker? Also I remember watching extreme 4x4 and they did a locker on the cheap by welding up some crap...any thoughts on that and what do I weld? Thanks for yhe help guys
 
#10 ·
If you're looking for a reasonably priced locker thats pretty easy to install check out the Powertrax Lock-Right and No-Slip. They are mechanical ratcheting lockers similar to a Detroit, but they are what is known as "lunchbox lockers" which just basically means they replace the spider gears in the stock carrier. I've got a No-Slip in my 02 and have had Lock-Rights in two other trucks and they've all worked flawlessly in spite of me beating on them pretty hard really often lol. The welding option that you mentioned or a "Lincoln Locker" as mentioned above is a good and cheap option for a budget wheeling truck, but not one I'd even consider for something that is gonna spend most of its life on the road. Doing this method basically gives you the same effect as a Spool, which means both tires are mechanically locked together 100% of the time, it will chirp the tires going around turns, wear tires out much faster, and affect the truck's handling as well.
 
#11 ·
Thanks guys...I learn something new everyday...I'm looking into a LSD for when I start building things up...figured start getting parts list now...and go with cheapest and odds and ends first...I don't do much off roading but wanna build a 4x4 drag truck that's still streetable...and thoughts about front diff since I wanna do a set up like this?

Edit: fixed typos due to phone
 
#13 ·
One is made to fit inside a factory open diff carrier, and the other is made to fit in a limited slip carrier, since you've got an open diff in your truck, you need the cheaper one that is made to fit in the open diff. Prices may have gone up over time, but I remember my No-Slip being quite a bit cheaper then that, I wanna say I paid just under $400 for mine but that was back in 05. At any rate do some shopping to try and find a better deal, might get lucky.
 
#16 ·
Roflmao....I feel off the couch cause I was laughing so hard...I'm not that stupid lol I know weld the spiders lol...I'm gonna by the correct stuff lol...but thanks for the laugh it was good lol
 
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