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2000 Dakota Heater Core Replacement Pics

243K views 232 replies 79 participants last post by  donram360 
#1 ·
Well, I really think it all went well. I pulled the truck in the garage yesterday about 2pm. Had it apart, heater box out, cleaned everything, put new core in, put box back, and hung the dash back to the firewall with a couple of the top screws before I stopped for the night and did all that by 8:30pm by myself. The worse part was the truck was all wet from it rain outside and got my garage floor wet so I had to kneel in it a few times. This morning I started on it about 10am and finished at 1:30pm.

Heat seems to be working great. Recharged the A/C today that all seems to be good.

If you have mechanical skills, some basic tools.. Screw drivers, metric 3/8 sockets, standard 1/4" drive sockets, a cordless drill with a 5/16 driver helps taking the box apart.. about 20 screw. and the A/C connector release tool One 1/2" and one 5/8".

As you will see in the pics I didn't drain my coolant system. I took some vise grips and clampped the heater hoses to minimize the lose of antifreeze. When done just added a little coolant and burped it to get the air out.

Now, with 95500 miles on my truck, I just hope it last and nothing major goes wrong with it.

The pictures are in order from start to finish.











 
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#6 ·
It's really not bad.. I am no auto mechanic.. I am an Electrical and controls technician for the power company to be exact. I have worked on classic cars and things like that as a hobby but I think anyone that has worked on cars, has tools, and a garage could do this..
 
#7 ·
Looks like fun haha. Wonder if there's any difference between 97'-00' and 01'-04' trucks...

How heavy was that whole thing you took out from the firewall?
 
#9 ·
WOW. Rep Given.

Sticky this shit.
 
#11 ·
Yeah, you pretty much need to pull the box. There are screws all over it that must be removed once it's out on the floor. Plus, my box was kinda dirty inside so I removed everything and hosed it out. I also washed the evap core. It's really not that bad. I think I could do it now in half the time. The heat felt great on my way to work this morning..:woot:
 
#17 ·
WHY WHY WHY, dont auto manufacturers make it easier..
For instance, having a shield in the engine bay that you can unscrew and take the heater core out that way..
If the positoned the heater core on the passenger side, like all my other vehicles, this would be a no-brainer..My 02 rt is on the drivers side as well.
 
#18 ·
Did you happen to see or know or able to figure out where the door chimer is(it maybe a computer chip/board)? I need to get in there some day! I know it is right next to the glove box behind the dash.
 
#20 ·
This is driving me crazy, I replaced my heater core last week. I still smell anitfreeze when I turn my heat on. It doesn't steam the windows anymore but it smells some. It really doesn't heat all that well as far as I am concerned. It seems like it doesn't heat until you turn the temp knob to max. There really doesn't seem to be any fine tuning there. I cleaned the heater box when I did the core change. I flushed it with a hose. Now I am thinking I should of used some kind of detergent to wash it out. I am temped to pull the frickin' thing back apart.

Is there a heater control valve on a 2000 4.7 dakota or id the heater core always in the loop?
 
#21 ·
Thanks anyway.
 
#23 ·
How the hell do you remove the lines that go into the heater box for the A/C off the condenser bottle?

I got the little tool that has goes around the tubes and has the extended lip that slides into the hoop...but what do i do at that point? pull it towards me somehow?

I can't get the lines disconnected to save my life.

Any tricks?
 
#24 ·
Yeah, That "extended lip" pushes up inside to release the spring. If are using the plastic spring loaded type that goes around the line, make sure the extended lip is facing you but on the firewall side of the a/c line locking disc. Then pull it toward you and twist back a forth at the same time. You should feel it when it when it releases. MAKE SURE ALL THE PRESSURE IS OFF THE SYSTEM.
 
#26 ·
Last time I flushed my coolant system, I had air stuck in the heater core...wouldn't blow much heat and I could get it bled out for the life of me. I ended up putting it on full heat and driving the hell out of the truck for a little while. I felt better and it pushed the air out... :huh:

Rebel - I don't know about pre-01 models, but on mine, the door/key etc chime is part of the CTM. I breifly considered desoldering it from the board, but then I'd lose EVERY warning chime.
 
#29 ·
Doesn't matter how high you turn your heat up, there is always coolant flowing through the core. Unless you had it turned on to see when it actually started getting hot. Not sure if the 4.7L are different in how they direct coolant to the heater core, but on the older Magnum engines, as long as coolant is in the water pump, it's going to push coolant through the heatercore as soon as the waterpump starts turning.
 
#27 · (Edited)
I started this same job this morning. It was going good until I tried to get the box out. I have taken all the bolts out but it still won't budge. It rocks but will not come out. After looking at your pictures, I can see their are only four bolts. I've cooled down and I'm going back out to do battle.



Added later.

Found it. One of the bolt is right behind the transmission dip tube. hard to see and hard to get.
 
#30 ·
This is one thing I wish the designers would pay better attention to. Probably one of the few things GM got right on a few cars too. I remember replacing heater cores on 80's era GM cars. Most had a panel you pull off under the air box, pull the core, replace and off you go. Could do one in about 30 minutes.

In contrast I think I would do one or two evaporator or heater cores on a Ford Taurus every week. I got the method down but would still take you four or five hours start to finish.

Around 1992, my girlfriend at the time bought a new Mitsubishi Mirage. The particular model did not come with factory A/C. Dealer wanted $1800 to install it. I could buy the entire kit from the parts department for $650. That entire A/C system only took about two hours to install. Pop a panel behind the glove box and the evaporator slides in. Tilt the radiator back, condensor slides in. Hang compersor, install belt, connect lines and charge. Plug everything in (wires already in the car) and run. It was easier putting in the entire system than some american cars are just to change a compressor or fan motor.
 
#32 ·
yay lucky me ill be attempting this next week when i have a few days off for thanksgiving, thanks for a great thread
 
#33 ·
well guys got it done last night, i got my core from advance auto but it wasn't anywhere near the same as the original and i had to modify my box for it to sit down properly, so where did yall get yours?,

only trouble ive had so far my temp knob doesnt go lock to lock like it did, and my selector switch for ac feet defro. etc. is stuck on defrost, so im goin to tinker with it today and see what i can figure out
 
#34 ·
That's because you got and aftermaket heater core. I had to do the same thing. I payed 50 dollars up here in toque land. The dealer wanted 248.00 cdn I almost fell of the chair laughing ,so a pair of side cutters did the trick.
I am doing mine at work, between jobs and had the dash out twice so far. I am driving the truck without the heater core box and I am getting a NO BUS sign where my odometer reading is and none of my gauge are working I think it is the plug for the back of the gauges. :huh:Matt
 
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