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post #61 of 68 Old 04-15-2017, 12:34 PM
RXT
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Yeah, I can't afford to be hurt, I've gone thru enough pain already. Anywho, if you do go for them, I'd be curious enough to see close up detailed pics of them and see if that boot really does seal out mud and water. I want to see if I made the right decision.

In other news, I got back my injector pump, and it's back on the engine again. I haven't heard it run yet, but everything looks promising. If all goes smoothly, the next step is getting power to the ground, then I find out if we can decomputerize a 47RE and make it go. I'm also learning iMovie so I can put together a video….probably won't come out as good as the Nacho build vid, but….

Ed
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post #62 of 68 Old 04-20-2017, 02:09 AM Thread Starter
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cool - found this 02 Dak just listed on CL last night: 360/auto, AWD, has what appears to be a 'basic' 3" lift, and major bonus points is it was about 15 minutes from my house. All in all in pretty good shape - has some normal hail damage but it runs very well and cruises clean at 80 mph. Has the tan interior we really really wanted. Got it for $4200 - thought that was a pretty decent price. Should be a real good platform to 'start' with.
Will be a long while before doing anything major to it - we'll just wheel the local lighter trails and get a good feel for it - do some minor maintenance and maybe put some tires on it. Meanwhile we'll keep an eye out for some of the major hardware destined to go under it etc.








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post #63 of 68 Old 04-20-2017, 03:04 PM
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Oh freakin' cool!!! I'm happy for you…The truck looks great and based on the pics, the color is probably as close to Strata Blue as you can get from the factory. I can see some of the hail damage on the hood…No biggie, hoods are easy to replace. How is rust? I don't see any signs at all in the open doorways…thats a good sign so far!

I'm a real hater for rust…If they salt the roads there, I would be wary of a couple critical spots prone to severe rust damage…..



This is the front cab mount, located just behind the front tires (photographed from behind, looking towards the front bumper) If you look just behind the front tires you will see this structure. You will also see a rectangular opening on it's vertical surface facing the tire. Unfortunately the location of that hole allows tire splash to enter the structure and it will fill up with dirt and debris, including salt…



^ This is what they look like when they rust out and fail. I would suggest you fill in that rectangular hole so the structure doesn't fill up, but leave the square hole underneath open to allow for drainage.

Also keep an eye on the rear quarters. The wheel wells love to rust under the fender flares. I would treat these areas with either a good rust inhibitor, undercoating or something like fluid-film. Check the rockers too.


Yup it does look like it has a 3" body lift. Your last cheap trick is turn the torsion bar bolts and give it another inch of lift, but no more. Your alignment will still be in parameters and you won't mess up the rack and pinion unit.

I can't wait for this build to begin….

In other news, my truck runs!

Ed
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post #64 of 68 Old 04-20-2017, 03:23 PM Thread Starter
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yah we're pretty stoked about it - seems to be a real good platform to begin the build with! . I'm actually going to try my hand at 'hail dent removal' with the heat gun and ice cubes - see if I can pop out some of 'em - otherwise I'm not really bothered by it.

The lift is apparently 'all suspension' - not a body lift - it has the torsion bar keys or something - haven't researched any of that - but I plan to do the body lift when SAS time comes.

The rust seems to be very minimal. Front end has some grumbling noises when going over bumps etc - typical 'old' and worn out stuff I figure - don't really care - it aught to be plenty 'good enough' between now and the time to get SASsy

Meanwhile BIG kudo's on getting yours running! How soon before you take it out for some test-n-tune time?
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post #65 of 68 Old 04-20-2017, 05:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mad-Max View Post
yah we're pretty stoked about it - seems to be a real good platform to begin the build with! . I'm actually going to try my hand at 'hail dent removal' with the heat gun and ice cubes - see if I can pop out some of 'em - otherwise I'm not really bothered by it.
I was going to insert a joke about the aerodynamic effects of dimples…There was a Myth Busters episode where they "dimpled" a car like a golf ball…turned out the car got slightly better economy…But I decided not to. Those damn bumps are a BIOTCH to remove. Is there damage on the roof too?

Quote:
The lift is apparently 'all suspension' - not a body lift - it has the torsion bar keys or something - haven't researched any of that - but I plan to do the body lift when SAS time comes.
Really nice score, it always helps to sell off the things you don't need for a little extra moola for the project.

Quote:
The rust seems to be very minimal. Front end has some grumbling noises when going over bumps etc - typical 'old' and worn out stuff I figure - don't really care - it aught to be plenty 'good enough' between now and the time to get SASsy
(Where's the thumbs up smilie?)

Quote:
Meanwhile BIG kudos' on getting yours running! How soon before you take it out for some test-n-tune time?
Speaking of stoked, WOW! I feel like a kid ready to pick up my very first date! The to do list has gotten very short and I can see daylight at the end of the tunnel. (I'm still living with the regret of never being able to finish the old Ramcharger project, but relieved that the Dakota made it well past the point where the RC stalled)

Finishing up engine details is in progress. They are hooking up the radiator, intercooler, and stuff like that. Next big hurdle is getting power to the ground…. The transmission is there but it's never been tested. This will be when I will know for certain that you can indeed de-computerize a 47RE and make it work on just a manual valve body and some switches. Theoretically it should, but theres always that tiny bit of doubt that likes to creep up into my head.

The tune part will be roughed in as good as possible, so it can be given a good shake down run. Then I'm thinking of renting time on a dyno, to get a baseline and then dial it in from there. I'm also curious what it's power level will end up being.


In the mean time, you got yourself a great ride, I think you're gonna find that your Dakota will be pretty fun.

Ed
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post #66 of 68 Old 04-21-2017, 06:50 PM Thread Starter
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cool yah that all sounds good - gonna be fun seeing the first vids of your big honkin Dak out n about!

So with my truck being AWD...I'm wondering if there would be any adverse affects to my driveline if I were to install lockers in the rear, and/or front. I'm guessing there would be no net difference between an AWD chassis and the part-time 4WD chassis just from a 'what parts do what' viewpoint, but I'm just wondering about the front and rear 'binding' when in AWD and automatic lockers in both ends?


Also, purely from a 'what parts swap with what' point of view, I was also wondering about what would be required to convert my truck to factory part-time 4WD: is that just as simple as swapping the AWD t-case with the part-time t-case...and then swapping the dash 'AWD' switch with the respective '4WD' switch...or is there more to it than that like the dash switches don't 'swap' clean across because of different electronics/connectors for the switch etc?

Lastly, pls correct my data here:
NP231 = part time (2H-4H-4L) w/manual floor lever
NP233 = part time (2H-4H-4L) w/ dash switch
NP242 = full time (AWD-4H-4L) w/ manual floor lever
NP244 = full time (AWD-4H-4L) w/ dash switch

...correct?

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post #67 of 68 Old 04-23-2017, 02:34 PM Thread Starter
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Found the decal inside the glove bax - the truck has 3.92s and a LSD rear diff

Here are a few cool comparison shots next to the truck this Dak is 'replacing' - what was most surprising (and deceptive) is both trucks are nearly the same length end to end, while the Dakota (currently) has about a foot shorter wheelbase -











...and looked close underneath and the truck is about as 'rust free' as it could be!










Last edited by Mad-Max; 04-23-2017 at 03:25 PM.
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post #68 of 68 Old 04-24-2017, 03:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mad-Max View Post
cool yah that all sounds good - gonna be fun seeing the first vids of your big honkin Dak out n about!

So with my truck being AWD...I'm wondering if there would be any adverse affects to my driveline if I were to install lockers in the rear, and/or front. I'm guessing there would be no net difference between an AWD chassis and the part-time 4WD chassis just from a 'what parts do what' viewpoint, but I'm just wondering about the front and rear 'binding' when in AWD and automatic lockers in both ends?
Putting a locker in the rear of an AWD can be done. Putting one in the front has a whole number of possible problems. For the front axle, I wouldn't stick a Detroit in it. There will be some undesirable on road issues involving handling and some possibility of bind up. IF I went this route, and I was determined to use an automatic locker, I'd go with something like a Lock-right. The engagement springs on these are sprung a little lighter than on a Detroit, reducing the force it takes to engage and disengage. However, if I wanted a locker in the front, a better option would be a manual locker, if one for your diff exists. One big adverse effect is you're still talking about using a really tiny front diff with not much in the way of strength. Remember that you have what is basically a full-size truck in most respects with exception to the front end. There you have an assembly thats barely adequate for an S-10, let alone a truck with V8 power. If you're determined to make that diff work, consider hoarding front diffs.

Quote:
Also, purely from a 'what parts swap with what' point of view, I was also wondering about what would be required to convert my truck to factory part-time 4WD: is that just as simple as swapping the AWD t-case with the part-time t-case…and then swapping the dash 'AWD' switch with the respective '4WD' switch…or is there more to it than that like the dash switches don't 'swap' clean across because of different electronics/connectors for the switch etc?

Lastly, pls correct my data here:
NP231 = part time (2H-4H-4L) w/manual floor lever
NP233 = part time (2H-4H-4L) w/ dash switch
NP242 = full time (AWD-4H-4L) w/ manual floor lever
NP244 = full time (AWD-4H-4L) w/ dash switch

...correct?
As far as I recall, the swap should be pretty direct, but I'd still consider a Rubi t-case and see if it could be adapted in, and if you can locate one. .. The list of T-cases looks about correct.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Mad-Max View Post
Found the decal inside the glove bax - the truck has 3.92s and a LSD rear diff

Here are a few cool comparison shots next to the truck this Dak is 'replacing' - what was most surprising (and deceptive) is both trucks are nearly the same length end to end, while the Dakota (currently) has about a foot shorter wheelbase -
...and looked close underneath and the truck is about as 'rust free' as it could be!
I would had never guessed that a quad cab Dakota is as long as that crew cab Dodge. No rust!!! Thats definitely a fantastic find

Ed
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