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How to replace upper and lower ball joints on a '99 4x4 Durango.

141K views 95 replies 46 participants last post by  biggjb420 
#1 · (Edited)
Ok, everyone keeps asking how to do this and people try to explain but until now there hasn't been a technical article on it. Now there is :banana2:

This article covers the removal and installation of;

Upper Ball Joints
Lower Ball Joints
Inner Tie Rod
Outer Tie Rod End
Shock Absorbers

Tools you will need;

Jack / Jackstand
Lug Wrench
Side Cutters/Pliers
1 1/4 Socket
18mm Socket
5/8 Wrench
1/2" Wrench
12" Crescent Wrench
Snap Ring Pliers
Angle Grinder - Grinding Wheel
Large Hammer/Small Mallet
Ball Joint Press
1 Large Washer - 3 Very Large Washers/Bushings


Step 1. - Jack and support vehicle, remove tire. (make sure and jack the vehicle up another few inches further than is required to remove the tire because you'll need that room to operate the press later)

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj190/lvin4jc33/D-go Front End/P1020997.jpg

Step 2. - Remove 1 1/4" Castle nut holding rotor/caliper assembly.

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj190/lvin4jc33/D-go Front End/P1030059.jpg

Step 3. - Remove the Castle nuts off of the upper and lower ball joints and grind the three (3) rivets off of the top of the upper ball joint. These can be ground down to flush and then beat out with a punch and a hammer.

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj190/lvin4jc33/D-go Front End/P1020995.jpg
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj190/lvin4jc33/D-go Front End/P1030001.jpg
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj190/lvin4jc33/D-go Front End/P1030002.jpg
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj190/lvin4jc33/D-go Front End/P1030003.jpg

Step 4. - Remove Castle nut on tie rod end and remove inner tie rod with the crescent wrench.

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj190/lvin4jc33/D-go Front End/P1020999.jpg

Step 5. - Remove Shock Absorber with the 5/8" Wrench (bottom bolt) and 1/2" Wrench (top nut).

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj190/lvin4jc33/D-go Front End/P1020997.jpg
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj190/lvin4jc33/D-go Front End/P1030060.jpg

Step 6. - Remove rotor/caliper assembly (usually by hitting the top of it with a mallet) and set it to the side. Move the axle out of the way and tie it up.

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj190/lvin4jc33/D-go Front End/P1030062.jpg

Step 7. - Grind the ring off of the lower ball joint until it is completely flush.

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj190/lvin4jc33/D-go Front End/P1030063.jpg

Step 8. - Start the lower ball joint on it's way with the hammer and/or punch. (try not to hit the A-arm or it will bend into the hole and make it harder to press the new joint in).

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj190/lvin4jc33/D-go Front End/P1030064.jpg

Step 9. - Continue to remove the lower joint with the press.

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj190/lvin4jc33/D-go Front End/P1030065.jpg
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj190/lvin4jc33/D-go Front End/P1030006.jpg

This is it as far as disassembly goes, now it's time to start installing the new parts. :woot:

- Press new lower ball joint into A-arm.

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj190/lvin4jc33/D-go Front End/P1030004.jpg

In my experience this was the hardest part until I figured out how to modify the press. I used the O.E.M. press from AutoZone's Loan-A-Tool program. The directions call for you to put all the adapters/rings/new joint and A-arm in the press, but there is not nearly enough room in the press for all of those things. You will see in the following photos that I had to start the press with a small chisel on top because it was thin enough to fit, but strong enough not to get bent by the press. Also, if you use this press or another like it, this is where the washers come in. http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj190/lvin4jc33/D-go Front End/P1030066.jpg

Use the silver washer to put in between the ring from the press kit and the rubber boot on the new joint or else THE PRESS WILL CUT A RING ALL THE WAY AROUND AND THROUGH YOUR SHINY NEW RUBBER BOOT. And trust me, no one can get you a replacement :rant:

So start the press with the chisel (or flat piece of metal) until the joint is almost flush.

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj190/lvin4jc33/D-go Front End/P1030067.jpg

Turn the press with the crescent wrench until it gets harder to turn (it will be hard in the first place, but after a few turn it will get even harder) when this happens give the outside of the A-arm a healthy whack with the hammer, this will help guide the joint in straight and make the press easy to turn again. Once the joint reaches almost flush you can insert the adapter that goes with the press.

Ok, so here comes the next problem, while the old joint had a built in ring that we had to grind off, the new joint has to be pressed up further in order to accomodate a snap ring. This is where the three very large washers come in. I found mine at a hardware store labeled "Bushings." Depending on the thickness you might have to use more than one, in my case three (3). Use these to space the top of the press above the top of the A-arm. Unfortunately, in my case I had to use these spacers progressively one at a time. In other words, press it, release the press and insert a spacer, press it again, release the press and insert another spacer and so on until all three spacers have been pressed and the joint is high enough to accomodate the snap ring.

After that you're almost done, just install the new shock absorber, install the upper ball joint, bolt up the rotor/caliper asembly, re-install the axle, bolt up the new tie rod end (making sure that it is adjusted to be the approximate length of the one you removed) re-install the brake line, put the tire back on and drive it to a tire shop to get an alignment. You're done! :banana2:

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj190/lvin4jc33/D-go Front End/P1030075.jpg

The first side took me a few days just to think up the washer idea to modify the press, but once I figured it out I timed the driver's side, not including getting the tools out/putting them away it took a hair over 3 hours for one side.

Another handy tip is even though AutoZone's Loan-A-Tool program is (in the end) totally free. The press costs $150 to rent while you have it and (of course) the money comes right out when you rent it, but takes a day or two to get back into your account once you return it.

TiresPlus quoted me $1,200.00 for this job not including shocks. I did it for $75. That's right, all these parts were $75 including shipping off of eBay :drive:

Good Luck and Happy Wrenching
- Joe -
 
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#41 ·
I don't know how you'd get that to work b/c the press is essentially a glorified C-clamp and the part that does the actual pressing needs something flat to press on. If you pressed from the bottom up you'd have to press on the bolt/castle nut itself, which (since it's a ball joint) swivels a little bit 360 degrees, so every time you put pressure on it, it would slip. And believe me when I say, it takes some pressure.

In other words, no, I don't think it's possible. The good news is this is a great excuse to go out and buy an angle grinder :mullet: And, if you consider the fact that tires plus wanted $1,200.00 to do this to my D-go, you'll still come out about a grand ahead even if you buy a really nice angle grinder.
 
#42 ·
I highly doubt you could press it up, I would imagine you would break something before it came out. If you have a harbor freight near you they have grinders there for like $15. Or I saw a black and decker at walmart for $30 the other day. I hate to say it but if money is super tight pick one up from walmart, use it and then return it......
 
#43 ·
Not sure about using it and then returning it (did I mention that i'm a pastor?). I would just get a good DeWalt or Makita and have it for life. But if money is tight, like Hoodlum said, HF has them for $15, but as a sign of quality, they come with an extra set of brushes :forehead:
 
#51 ·
Excellent info in this thread!

Just to add an alternative for the lower ball joints - you can pick up complete lower control arms for around $110-120 per side, which include a new ball joint, and has the advantage of replacing the arm bushings at the same time. Although it is more expensive than just replacing the ball joints, it is a much simpler install, and still a huge savings over having the shop install the ball joints. :eek:nethumb:
 
#53 ·
I believe that. Some brands are a lot less. Dorman is $120.79 at rockauto, and ebay has them for a little less (especially if you go through bing.com and get the 8% off).

Edit: I noticed you have a 2003, which is $143.79 at rockauto. The 98-99's are cheaper.
 
#54 ·
That Bing deal is saweet!

Are you guys having problems getting the rivets off? I just used a 4 1/2" angle grinder with a new wheel and I know I didn't spend more than 45 seconds on each rivet head before they just fell out.

P.S. I don't know when I last checked on this thread but just so ya know my super cheapo eBay front end parts are still working flawlessly and i've put 30k miles on in the last year.
 
#55 · (Edited)
Hey fellas! I know this thread is old but I need some help. I have a 99 durango 4x4 and am removing my steering knuckle to replace it. knuckle brake threads striped. For some reason the damn ball joint won't pop out of the lower knuckle hole. Everything is disconected except the lbj. I have tapped with a sledge hoping it would drop out. I have also broke my lbj by prying with a fork separator. How do I remove the knuckle from the lbj? I need good dodge guidance! Sry if this is posted elsewhere. Thanks in advance all help is welcome!
 
#56 ·
keep the nut ontop of the joint so it wont fall completely out when you get it out!
you will ruin your lower balljoint, but get a propane torch and heat the shit out of the balljoint stud and wack the top of the nut with a hammer (or use the fork)
(i also hear locktite has this freeze stuff that works great too)
 
#57 ·
OMG! I'm an idiot. I think my frustration clouded my thought cause I didn't even think of that. Thanks a bunch. I was stressed thinking of ways to do it. I gotta get a new lbj now lol. I can't wait to get the new knuckle on so I can drive my D again. I'm so low in my LHS.
 
#58 ·
Holy hell did removing the lbj give me a headache. My newish angle grinder took a poo on me so I finished grinding the lip of the lbj out with my 3" wheel cutter. I broke my hammer but I sure as hell pounded the lbj out first. Having trouble putting the new lbj back in, but tommorrow is a fresh day with another 12 pack lol. Thanks again for having this thread here!
 
#60 ·
PITA to remove without one, hammers and sockets/extensions are needed.




install, stick em the freezer for a couple hours, then *quickly* install.


or pull LCA(s) and take to a shop and have them press in/out.
 
#62 ·
My lower ball joints were in there so much that even grinding, hammering, and pressing I could do could not remove them. It was worth it for me to drop my lower control arms to the guys I know at the local dealership to have them done for me. It was $20 well spent.
 
#70 · (Edited)
Hey there guys, just an update here. I don't know if I mentioned or not but when I did this the first time, I didn't know to remove the rubber boot on the lower ball joints when you press them in and consequently I cut a nice circle completely through the boot, well I finally replaced that joint today. I also found that one of the bolts holding the upper joint on had completely fallen out, glad I checked on this and got it replaced!

So I had to tear back into it completely down again to press out the old one and in the new one. I learned (some of you may already know this) that it isn't necessary to remove the brake caliper assembly at all. Just un-bolt or grind the rivets off the top joint and remove the nut on the lower joint, then you can swing the whole assembly to the side as the axle shaft comes out. Then tie up the axle out of the way and you're good to go, much faster this way.

Also, in reference to greasing it up, both tims i've done this I sprayed the A-arm hole with brake parts cleaner and wiped it out and then lubed it up with W-40 to help the new joint press back in.

I think I said in the beginning that the ball joint press you can borrow form O'reilly's, AutoZone etc. wasn't large enough to work on our trucks. However, if you remove the boot and don't have to worry about cutting it anymore it works perfectly as it should. An electric impact wrench made quick work of the pressing for me. Experience and an impact wrench saved me probably half a days work over last time. Good luck and happy wrenching!

- Joe -
 
#79 ·
Ha ha same for me. I bought the cheap kit from ebay for like $90 that came with inner/outer tie rods and upper/lower ball joints. With my luck lately, of course when I was on my way to get my heater core last night my right lower ball joint went out. Tons of play, it looked crushed and with no grease and when i regreased it it just ran out the bottom of the boot.

I HIGHLY HIGHLY HIGHLY suggest if anyone does this to find lowers with a REMOVABLE BOOT, it will save you all the headache. Autozone has them for $28, they gave me the first kind and I checked and they had another kind that has a removable boot. I cut mine also when I first did it hence the failer I think. Since I did mine not to long ago it was pretty much cake last night with the bj press, pickle fork, and my new 1/2 inch electric impact wrench, took all the work out of it. I also didnt even unbolt the outer tie rod, just swung the whole knuckle out of the way. 3 1/2 hours from start to finish with a dinner break and waiting on my sis to go get the pickle fork which i forgot. Not to bad. The rent a tool bj press I got from autozone worked just fine for me, still not sure if i used it right but it worked......
 
#71 ·
If anyone is looking for a ball joint press, I would suggest checking out Harbor Freight Tools. I bought the Four Wheel Drive Ball Joint Service Kit on sale for $49 and it worked excellently on my Durango, awesome press.

Same with the impact wrench, although I have air ones I do not have a compressor in my home. I got an electric Impact Wrench there for $39 and it worked great for removing the axle nut, rusted castle nuts on the ball joints, etc.
 
#72 ·
I have that same "Chicago Electric" impact wrench, so far i'm a huge fan of it, it's worked quite well. I'm also working in a 1951 Ford F-1 and it's helped me loosen lots of 59yr old rusty bolts!

Also, as far as torque specs go, i'm not sure how helpful those will be since almost everything involved uses castle nuts and cotter pins, but you may be able to use it as a guide? Otherwise you can just tighten it as tight as you can get it and still line up the cotter pin hole with the castle nut...
 
#74 ·
since the ball joint press is basically a glorified C clamp, could i just use a c clamp instead? I gotta replace the ball joints, tie rod ends, cv axles, and wheel hubs on my rango, possibly brakes at that time too since everything is gonna be off, and i dont wanna get anything that I dont need. Im kinda short on cash and dont have money to buy the press, and i also wont have the money for the deposit of the press without waiting a few more weeks after i can get the parts.
 
#75 ·
Steering wheel not centered afte tie rod end replacement

I just replaced my outer tie rod end on the driver side and now the sterring wheel is not centered. I thought it might be because new tie rod was longer and I trie to adjust jam nut first in, the out then back to original position but not change at all. Do you have to hold the "pitarm"? from moving when adjusting the jam nut to be able to adjust? I was setting the tie rod inside the knuckle, then rotating the jam nut. Is there a fix for this other then an alignment? It's out quite a bit.:huh:
 
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