Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any personal injury, death, divorce that may occur due
to the following of these directions. The views and opions expressed in this walkthrough do
not necessarily reflect those of the staff and/or management of Dakota-Durango.com.
For the purpose of this walkthrough we are performing the maintenance on a 1998 Dodge Dakota
4X4 SLT. Depending on your year/model, some measurements and specs may be different.
REQUIRED EQUIPMENT:
1x hub assembly. Depending on the configuration of your vehicle, there are several choices
to consider. Many of which can be located here: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...&parttype=1636
Torque wrench (ratchet or bar type) - to torque parts to spec upon assembly
Jack & jack stands
Wheel chocks
32mm socket - needed to remove axle nut
21mm socket - needed to remove 3x hub flange bolts from steering knuckle (Shallow well works
best)
19mm socket - needed to remove lug nuts from wheel
Breaker Bar - to extract high torque parts
7mm Hex socket adapter - needed to remove the caliper slide pins
Bungie cord/rope - To suspend the caliper system during work
Ball Peen Hammer - removal of hub assembly from steering knuckle
metal chisel - removal of hub assembly from steering knuckle
Pliers - to remove and install cotter pin into axle
OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT:
Nitrile gloves - good for keeping hands clean
Impact wrench (Electric or pneumatic) - makes the overall process easier
socket extension bar
wire brush/wheel
fine grit sandpaper/sanding wheel
Brake parts cleaner
WD40/PB Blaster (or choice penetrating oil) - help loosen rusted parts
Bearing grease
RTV sealant
Extra light source
shop cloths
HUB REMOVAL:
The first step in removing the old hub is to remove the wheel from the front of the truck
If you are not using an impact wrench, the best method is to use a breaker bar and before the
truck is placed on the jack stands break the lugs loose on the wheel using the 19mm socket.
Once the lugs are loose, jack the front end of the truck placing the jack on the frame
and raising the truck until the tire clears the floor of the garage. Place a suitable stand
under the frame and lower the jack. Do not forget to place wheel chocks on the rear wheel to
Keep the truck from rolling when on the jack stands.
Remove the wheel from the hub/rotor assembly and set aside. At this point we should see
the rotor and caliper system on the vehicle.
Remove the cotter pin from the axle and remove the axle nut retaining cap and spring washer.
If you do not have access to an impact wrench, gain the assistance from a second person and
have them apply pressure to the brake pedal to keep the hub and axle from spinning freely. Use the
breaker bar and 32mm socket to loosen the axle nut from the hub assembly. Remove the nut and set
aside. Use of an impact wrench makes this step much easier and quicker to perform.
Use the 7mm hex tool to loosen the caliper slide pins from the steering knuckle. Now that the
caliper system is free from the steering knuckle, gently rotate the caliper clockwise away from the
rotor to remove the caliper. At this time, use the rope/cord to suspend the caliper out of the way
so that there is minimal force on the brake lines.
Next remove the rotor from the hub by gently coercing it with the ball peen hammer and a small
shop cloth to prevent damage to the rotor surface. With the rotor removed, it will be much easier to
see behind the steering knuckle to reach the hub flange bolts.
If the hub flange/bolts appear to have a considerable ammount of dirt and/or corrosion use
the wire brush in conjunction with PB Blaster to help penetrate the threads of the bolts for easier
removal. This next step is extremely difficult if your 21mm socket is not an extremely shallow one.
The issue here is that there is minimal cleance between the CV outer race and the bolt heads for the
Hub flange. A shallow socket helps make things easier to square up (a thin walled socket may be just
as effective). It may help to place a small ammount of force to the end of the axle to push the outer
race away from the steering knuckle to help place the socket squarely on the bolt heads. If there is
a high ammount of corrosion or dirt, the ball peen hammer in symphony with a breaker bar should make
quick work of the three flange bolts. MAKE SURE THAT THE SOCKET IS SQUARE ON THE BOLT HEAD BEFORE USING
THE BAR AND HAMMER APPROACH! You may inadvertantly round the heads if you do not.
With the axle nut and flange bolts extracted, we can proceed to remove the old hub assembly from
the steering knuckle. To facilitate the removal of the old hub, use the metal chisel and ball peen hammer
to convince the hub to separate from the knuckle. In my experience, a standard flat head screw driver
does not transfer enough of the force from the hammer to the seam between the hub and knuckle to break them
loose.
Upon removal, you will probably notice a considerable ammount of corrosion on the inside of the
hub where the bearing is. This is a short sight on the sealing of the bearings from water.
NEW PART INSTALL:
To prep the area for the insertion of the new hub, use the wire brush and/or fine sandpaper to
remove much of the corrosion from the old parts. Use brake cleaner to remove extra residue from the
surface of the knuckle where the new hub will come in contact.
Before the new hub is put in place, pack the inside of the axle/knuckle cavity with bearing
grease to prolong the life of the new bearing by sealing out water.
The new hub may require some minor force to place in the correct location. Once in place, the
new hub should have forced some of the grease out between the steering knuckle and the outer CV race.
Insert the 3 flange bolts into the appropriate locations on the steering knuckle and tighten them by
hand. Use a torque wrench to bring each bolt to 65 ft. lbs. of torque. It is beneficial to use a
bar type torque wrench in this case because of the added clearance over a ratchet type torque wrench.
Torque the bolts in increments to insure that the overall force on the flange remains constant through
the torque procedure.
At this point, check the new hub for any unwanted play or uneven mounting. Repeat the above
steps if an adjustment is required.
To help seal the bearing from the elements, I also placed a thin bead of RTV sealant around the
exterior perimeter of where the hub contacts the steering knuckle. If anyone has any better suggestions
let me know.
Replace the rotor on the new hub assembly after cleaning the faces of the rotor with brake cleaner.
Next untie the caliper system and reinstall placing the bottom of the caliper on the steering knuckle and
rotating the system counter-clockwise into the correct position (this is the reverse of the removal).
Tighten the two 7mm hex caliper slide pins to 22 ft. lbs. Also place two lug nuts on the hub in
the positions opposite from one another and tighten enough to keep the rotor in place.
We require the assistance of a second person again to apply pressure to the brakes as we torque
the axle nut to 180 ft. lbs. using the 32mm socket and our torque wrench. replace the spring washer and
retaining cap on axle and use cotter pin to "lock" the system together. If the pin is badly warn, use
a new pin at this step.
Remove the two lug nuts from the rotor and install the wheel on the rotor/hub assembly.
Tighten the lug nuts until hand tight alternating between the opposite sides of the wheel. this will
keep the force on the rotor and hub equal. Torque the lug nuts to 85 ft. lbs. using incremental torque
and the "star" tightening pattern. This will help prevent damage to the wheel or the rotor from warping.
Replace jack under frame of truck and inspect area to make sure no tools are underneath vehicle
before removing the stands and lowering the truck. Remember to re-torque the lug nuts after a few days
or roughly 500 miles or so.
SUMMARY MEASURES/SPECIFICATIONS:
Axle nut - 32mm 180ft. lbs
Hub Flange bolt - 21mm 65 ft. lbs
Caliper slide pin - 7mm Hex 22 ft. lbs
Lug nut - 19mm 85 ft. lbs
Good luck and happy motoring!
Any suggestions/feedback are greatly appreciated.
to the following of these directions. The views and opions expressed in this walkthrough do
not necessarily reflect those of the staff and/or management of Dakota-Durango.com.
For the purpose of this walkthrough we are performing the maintenance on a 1998 Dodge Dakota
4X4 SLT. Depending on your year/model, some measurements and specs may be different.
REQUIRED EQUIPMENT:
1x hub assembly. Depending on the configuration of your vehicle, there are several choices
to consider. Many of which can be located here: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...&parttype=1636
Torque wrench (ratchet or bar type) - to torque parts to spec upon assembly
Jack & jack stands
Wheel chocks
32mm socket - needed to remove axle nut
21mm socket - needed to remove 3x hub flange bolts from steering knuckle (Shallow well works
best)
19mm socket - needed to remove lug nuts from wheel
Breaker Bar - to extract high torque parts
7mm Hex socket adapter - needed to remove the caliper slide pins
Bungie cord/rope - To suspend the caliper system during work
Ball Peen Hammer - removal of hub assembly from steering knuckle
metal chisel - removal of hub assembly from steering knuckle
Pliers - to remove and install cotter pin into axle
OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT:
Nitrile gloves - good for keeping hands clean
Impact wrench (Electric or pneumatic) - makes the overall process easier
socket extension bar
wire brush/wheel
fine grit sandpaper/sanding wheel
Brake parts cleaner
WD40/PB Blaster (or choice penetrating oil) - help loosen rusted parts
Bearing grease
RTV sealant
Extra light source
shop cloths
HUB REMOVAL:
The first step in removing the old hub is to remove the wheel from the front of the truck
If you are not using an impact wrench, the best method is to use a breaker bar and before the
truck is placed on the jack stands break the lugs loose on the wheel using the 19mm socket.
Once the lugs are loose, jack the front end of the truck placing the jack on the frame
and raising the truck until the tire clears the floor of the garage. Place a suitable stand
under the frame and lower the jack. Do not forget to place wheel chocks on the rear wheel to
Keep the truck from rolling when on the jack stands.
Remove the wheel from the hub/rotor assembly and set aside. At this point we should see
the rotor and caliper system on the vehicle.
Remove the cotter pin from the axle and remove the axle nut retaining cap and spring washer.
If you do not have access to an impact wrench, gain the assistance from a second person and
have them apply pressure to the brake pedal to keep the hub and axle from spinning freely. Use the
breaker bar and 32mm socket to loosen the axle nut from the hub assembly. Remove the nut and set
aside. Use of an impact wrench makes this step much easier and quicker to perform.
Use the 7mm hex tool to loosen the caliper slide pins from the steering knuckle. Now that the
caliper system is free from the steering knuckle, gently rotate the caliper clockwise away from the
rotor to remove the caliper. At this time, use the rope/cord to suspend the caliper out of the way
so that there is minimal force on the brake lines.
Next remove the rotor from the hub by gently coercing it with the ball peen hammer and a small
shop cloth to prevent damage to the rotor surface. With the rotor removed, it will be much easier to
see behind the steering knuckle to reach the hub flange bolts.
If the hub flange/bolts appear to have a considerable ammount of dirt and/or corrosion use
the wire brush in conjunction with PB Blaster to help penetrate the threads of the bolts for easier
removal. This next step is extremely difficult if your 21mm socket is not an extremely shallow one.
The issue here is that there is minimal cleance between the CV outer race and the bolt heads for the
Hub flange. A shallow socket helps make things easier to square up (a thin walled socket may be just
as effective). It may help to place a small ammount of force to the end of the axle to push the outer
race away from the steering knuckle to help place the socket squarely on the bolt heads. If there is
a high ammount of corrosion or dirt, the ball peen hammer in symphony with a breaker bar should make
quick work of the three flange bolts. MAKE SURE THAT THE SOCKET IS SQUARE ON THE BOLT HEAD BEFORE USING
THE BAR AND HAMMER APPROACH! You may inadvertantly round the heads if you do not.
With the axle nut and flange bolts extracted, we can proceed to remove the old hub assembly from
the steering knuckle. To facilitate the removal of the old hub, use the metal chisel and ball peen hammer
to convince the hub to separate from the knuckle. In my experience, a standard flat head screw driver
does not transfer enough of the force from the hammer to the seam between the hub and knuckle to break them
loose.
Upon removal, you will probably notice a considerable ammount of corrosion on the inside of the
hub where the bearing is. This is a short sight on the sealing of the bearings from water.
NEW PART INSTALL:
To prep the area for the insertion of the new hub, use the wire brush and/or fine sandpaper to
remove much of the corrosion from the old parts. Use brake cleaner to remove extra residue from the
surface of the knuckle where the new hub will come in contact.
Before the new hub is put in place, pack the inside of the axle/knuckle cavity with bearing
grease to prolong the life of the new bearing by sealing out water.
The new hub may require some minor force to place in the correct location. Once in place, the
new hub should have forced some of the grease out between the steering knuckle and the outer CV race.
Insert the 3 flange bolts into the appropriate locations on the steering knuckle and tighten them by
hand. Use a torque wrench to bring each bolt to 65 ft. lbs. of torque. It is beneficial to use a
bar type torque wrench in this case because of the added clearance over a ratchet type torque wrench.
Torque the bolts in increments to insure that the overall force on the flange remains constant through
the torque procedure.
At this point, check the new hub for any unwanted play or uneven mounting. Repeat the above
steps if an adjustment is required.
To help seal the bearing from the elements, I also placed a thin bead of RTV sealant around the
exterior perimeter of where the hub contacts the steering knuckle. If anyone has any better suggestions
let me know.
Replace the rotor on the new hub assembly after cleaning the faces of the rotor with brake cleaner.
Next untie the caliper system and reinstall placing the bottom of the caliper on the steering knuckle and
rotating the system counter-clockwise into the correct position (this is the reverse of the removal).
Tighten the two 7mm hex caliper slide pins to 22 ft. lbs. Also place two lug nuts on the hub in
the positions opposite from one another and tighten enough to keep the rotor in place.
We require the assistance of a second person again to apply pressure to the brakes as we torque
the axle nut to 180 ft. lbs. using the 32mm socket and our torque wrench. replace the spring washer and
retaining cap on axle and use cotter pin to "lock" the system together. If the pin is badly warn, use
a new pin at this step.
Remove the two lug nuts from the rotor and install the wheel on the rotor/hub assembly.
Tighten the lug nuts until hand tight alternating between the opposite sides of the wheel. this will
keep the force on the rotor and hub equal. Torque the lug nuts to 85 ft. lbs. using incremental torque
and the "star" tightening pattern. This will help prevent damage to the wheel or the rotor from warping.
Replace jack under frame of truck and inspect area to make sure no tools are underneath vehicle
before removing the stands and lowering the truck. Remember to re-torque the lug nuts after a few days
or roughly 500 miles or so.
SUMMARY MEASURES/SPECIFICATIONS:
Axle nut - 32mm 180ft. lbs
Hub Flange bolt - 21mm 65 ft. lbs
Caliper slide pin - 7mm Hex 22 ft. lbs
Lug nut - 19mm 85 ft. lbs
Good luck and happy motoring!
Any suggestions/feedback are greatly appreciated.