Dakota Durango Forum banner

How to replace upper and lower ball joints on a '99 4x4 Durango.

141K views 95 replies 46 participants last post by  biggjb420 
#1 · (Edited)
Ok, everyone keeps asking how to do this and people try to explain but until now there hasn't been a technical article on it. Now there is :banana2:

This article covers the removal and installation of;

Upper Ball Joints
Lower Ball Joints
Inner Tie Rod
Outer Tie Rod End
Shock Absorbers

Tools you will need;

Jack / Jackstand
Lug Wrench
Side Cutters/Pliers
1 1/4 Socket
18mm Socket
5/8 Wrench
1/2" Wrench
12" Crescent Wrench
Snap Ring Pliers
Angle Grinder - Grinding Wheel
Large Hammer/Small Mallet
Ball Joint Press
1 Large Washer - 3 Very Large Washers/Bushings


Step 1. - Jack and support vehicle, remove tire. (make sure and jack the vehicle up another few inches further than is required to remove the tire because you'll need that room to operate the press later)

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj190/lvin4jc33/D-go Front End/P1020997.jpg

Step 2. - Remove 1 1/4" Castle nut holding rotor/caliper assembly.

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj190/lvin4jc33/D-go Front End/P1030059.jpg

Step 3. - Remove the Castle nuts off of the upper and lower ball joints and grind the three (3) rivets off of the top of the upper ball joint. These can be ground down to flush and then beat out with a punch and a hammer.

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj190/lvin4jc33/D-go Front End/P1020995.jpg
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj190/lvin4jc33/D-go Front End/P1030001.jpg
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj190/lvin4jc33/D-go Front End/P1030002.jpg
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj190/lvin4jc33/D-go Front End/P1030003.jpg

Step 4. - Remove Castle nut on tie rod end and remove inner tie rod with the crescent wrench.

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj190/lvin4jc33/D-go Front End/P1020999.jpg

Step 5. - Remove Shock Absorber with the 5/8" Wrench (bottom bolt) and 1/2" Wrench (top nut).

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj190/lvin4jc33/D-go Front End/P1020997.jpg
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj190/lvin4jc33/D-go Front End/P1030060.jpg

Step 6. - Remove rotor/caliper assembly (usually by hitting the top of it with a mallet) and set it to the side. Move the axle out of the way and tie it up.

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj190/lvin4jc33/D-go Front End/P1030062.jpg

Step 7. - Grind the ring off of the lower ball joint until it is completely flush.

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj190/lvin4jc33/D-go Front End/P1030063.jpg

Step 8. - Start the lower ball joint on it's way with the hammer and/or punch. (try not to hit the A-arm or it will bend into the hole and make it harder to press the new joint in).

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj190/lvin4jc33/D-go Front End/P1030064.jpg

Step 9. - Continue to remove the lower joint with the press.

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj190/lvin4jc33/D-go Front End/P1030065.jpg
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj190/lvin4jc33/D-go Front End/P1030006.jpg

This is it as far as disassembly goes, now it's time to start installing the new parts. :woot:

- Press new lower ball joint into A-arm.

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj190/lvin4jc33/D-go Front End/P1030004.jpg

In my experience this was the hardest part until I figured out how to modify the press. I used the O.E.M. press from AutoZone's Loan-A-Tool program. The directions call for you to put all the adapters/rings/new joint and A-arm in the press, but there is not nearly enough room in the press for all of those things. You will see in the following photos that I had to start the press with a small chisel on top because it was thin enough to fit, but strong enough not to get bent by the press. Also, if you use this press or another like it, this is where the washers come in. http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj190/lvin4jc33/D-go Front End/P1030066.jpg

Use the silver washer to put in between the ring from the press kit and the rubber boot on the new joint or else THE PRESS WILL CUT A RING ALL THE WAY AROUND AND THROUGH YOUR SHINY NEW RUBBER BOOT. And trust me, no one can get you a replacement :rant:

So start the press with the chisel (or flat piece of metal) until the joint is almost flush.

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj190/lvin4jc33/D-go Front End/P1030067.jpg

Turn the press with the crescent wrench until it gets harder to turn (it will be hard in the first place, but after a few turn it will get even harder) when this happens give the outside of the A-arm a healthy whack with the hammer, this will help guide the joint in straight and make the press easy to turn again. Once the joint reaches almost flush you can insert the adapter that goes with the press.

Ok, so here comes the next problem, while the old joint had a built in ring that we had to grind off, the new joint has to be pressed up further in order to accomodate a snap ring. This is where the three very large washers come in. I found mine at a hardware store labeled "Bushings." Depending on the thickness you might have to use more than one, in my case three (3). Use these to space the top of the press above the top of the A-arm. Unfortunately, in my case I had to use these spacers progressively one at a time. In other words, press it, release the press and insert a spacer, press it again, release the press and insert another spacer and so on until all three spacers have been pressed and the joint is high enough to accomodate the snap ring.

After that you're almost done, just install the new shock absorber, install the upper ball joint, bolt up the rotor/caliper asembly, re-install the axle, bolt up the new tie rod end (making sure that it is adjusted to be the approximate length of the one you removed) re-install the brake line, put the tire back on and drive it to a tire shop to get an alignment. You're done! :banana2:

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj190/lvin4jc33/D-go Front End/P1030075.jpg

The first side took me a few days just to think up the washer idea to modify the press, but once I figured it out I timed the driver's side, not including getting the tools out/putting them away it took a hair over 3 hours for one side.

Another handy tip is even though AutoZone's Loan-A-Tool program is (in the end) totally free. The press costs $150 to rent while you have it and (of course) the money comes right out when you rent it, but takes a day or two to get back into your account once you return it.

TiresPlus quoted me $1,200.00 for this job not including shocks. I did it for $75. That's right, all these parts were $75 including shipping off of eBay :drive:

Good Luck and Happy Wrenching
- Joe -
 
See less See more
#76 ·
Doing this job right now. Got everything removed from the passenger side. The lower ball joint, upper ball joint and inner tie rod were all bad. The rotor is toast. Purchased one from RockAuto for $30 shipped. Bought a combo deal off eBay for $59.51 and $15.70 shipping, $75.21 total. Includes the inner & outer tie rods plus the upper & lower ball joints. Search eBay Durango Suspension.

1999 Dodge Durango SLT 4X4











Of course this makes the job sooo much easier. Got this set up off Craigslist for $150. Tank exchanges are cheap and infrequent.



VT247
 
#77 ·
Hey thats my durango! Im gonna be doing this tomorrow cause I was extremely frustrated and I ran out of time today.
 
#78 ·
I love this thread! Rep for you
 
#80 ·
this thread might be old, but it certainly is helpful.

Just swapped my lower ball joints on my '97 with 190k on the originals ;) (I'd done the uppers a few months ago because they're so much easier)

I didn't have to heat anything up once I got the tops ground off, just a few good whaqs with the 3lb sledge to get it started and then used the ball joint press and 1" drive 7/8" - pressed right out. Was also able to get the press to fit putting it back on without much issue. Though, the MOOG ball joints I got didn't have zerks for greasing.
 
#84 ·
My recommendation for removal of the lower ball joint is not to grind it down. One can easily damage or shorten the top of the control arm. The easiest method is to use a hammer and chisel to knock the lip inward. This allows the joint to press out without grabbing the top of the control arm.
 
#90 ·
Just finished up a total rebuild of my front suspension using this guide. Perfect. My only deviation was that I bought a 12 ton press for the lower ball joint work. It made the pressing out and in of the ball joints and the bushings a breeze. Nice write up thanks.
 
#91 · (Edited)
This awesome writeup has been given a home in the Tech Exchange so it won't get lost again! All photos have been attached inline to make it easier to follow. Much gracias to the original author!

http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/showthread.php?t=162689

If someone would like to do one for the 2wd procedure, it would be welcome!
 
#94 ·
Toruque settings for front suspension components
for 2002 Dodge Durango 2WD

DM = Dodge Durango Manual (Sect-Page)
Shock
Upper nut 19 ft-lbs (DM 2-12)
Lower bolts 21 ft-lbs (DM 2-12)

Lower Suspension Arm
Front nut 130 ft-lbs (DM 2-12)
Rear nut 80 ft-lbs (DM 2-12)
Ball Joint nut 94 ft-lbs (DM 2-12)
Ball joint mount nuts (replaces rivets)
(25 f-lbs online, not official*)

Upper Suspension Arm
Pivot Shaft Nuts 130 f-lbs (DM 2-12)
Pivot Shaft to frame nuts 155 f-lbs (DM 2-12)
Ball Joint Nut 60 f-lbs (DM 2-12)
Ball Joint mount nuts (replaces rivets)
(25 f-lbs on line, not official*)

Stabilizer bar
Link upper nut 27 f-lbs (DM)
Link ball stud nut 35 f-lbs (DM)
Retainer bolds 45 f-lbs (DM)

Hub-Bearning
Spindle Nut 185 f-lbs (DM)

Tie Rod Ends
End Nut 80 ft-lbs (DM 19-11)
Jam Nut 5 ft-lbs (DM 19-11)

Lug Nuts
Lug Nuts 85-115 f-lbs (DM 22-11)

Brakes
Guide Pin bolts 22 f-lbs (DM 5-31)

* DM does not give a value because Dodge wants you to
replace the entire suspension arm rather than just
the ball joint.
 
#95 ·
Just finished my 2000 Durango 4x4 front end, production dates of this year vehicle make a difference on some of the parts, like half axles. Thought I would pass on some parts link info while I'm here. Enjoyed looking at your work, wish I had thought to document mine... Detroit Axle - Brand New Complete 6-Piece Front Suspension Kit Dodge Dakota & Durango 4WD/4x4- 10-Year Warranty- All (4) Front Upper & Lower Ball Joints, Both Outer Tie Rod Ends... $46.20 Free Shipping , XtremepowerUS 4-in-1 Ball Joint Service Auto Tool Set 2WD & 4WD Auto Repair Remover Installer Extractor Removal Mechanic Tool Kit.... $54.95 This is the one you need because it includes the 4 wheel drive adapters, I rented the whole thing at Orielly's , Steering Rack & Pinion was from Parts Geek - A1 Cardone Steering Rack $136.73 with $105.00 core charge When knocking out the bottom ball joints, I just popped the snap ring off, wired brushed the head of the joint, used small hand grinder to take down the outer edge a little, let it soak with penetrating oil for a couple of hours, took a hammer that fit inside the diameter of the joint and another large hammer to hit it with, 8 strikes on drivers side, about a dozen or more on the Pass side and out they came. They're a pain in the A' but doable in your garage. You can find good deals on Amazon, they usually ship quickly within 2 to 3 days...
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top