Ujoints and CV joints - Dakota Durango Forum
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post #1 of 49 Old 04-12-2012, 02:40 AM Thread Starter
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Ujoints and CV joints

for my truck - is it possible to rebuild the cv joints on the front differential or do I have to buy the entire assembly (wondering about both sides).
also - is there a way to disengage the front driveshaft to troubleshoot a vibrstion? When I let off the gas, it feels like there is slack in a ujoint somewhere. I just replaced the ujoints on the rear driveshaft, I want to inspect the joints mentioned above.

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post #2 of 49 Old 04-17-2012, 09:02 PM
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sounds like your front drive shaft is bad. i just had to replace mine not long ago too. it made a lot of noise when i let off the gas and while slowing down. the stock ones came with a crappy CV joint on one side (which fails) and a U-joint on the other. i bought a new one from NAPA with both ends U-joints and it's much better. should last the rest of the trucks life now.


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post #3 of 49 Old 04-24-2012, 04:08 AM Thread Starter
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is there a way to check the cv joint on the front driveshaft without removing it? I am thinking that this where I am getting the vibration. If I could raise all 4 tires I would put it in drive a observe the shaft in motion - but all 4 wheels need to be off the ground, correct? Is that joint serviceable?

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post #4 of 49 Old 04-24-2012, 04:16 AM
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The way to test them is driving with all 4 tires off the ground, you apply the brake, then put vise-grips on the flex line so the brake on that tire stays on, then start driving. No more vibration? Found your weak link.

U-joints are easy to diagnose, because you can physically grab them, and watch/feel the play/seizure if there is any. With CV axles, its either above, or you tear down your front end.
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post #5 of 49 Old 04-24-2012, 10:23 PM Thread Starter
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It is the front driveshaft that I am talking about, not the axles. The driveshaft has one u joint assembly and a "CV" type joint on the other.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg front driveshaft.JPG (13.9 KB, 33 views)

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post #6 of 49 Old 04-25-2012, 03:28 PM
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The CV joint is NOT serviceable. The whole shaft needs to be replaced which isn't hard to do. It just unbolts out. If you can get a new double U-Joint model go for that because it won't wear out as fast as the CV. The only way to really test it is just to check for play in the shaft. It should be tight and not wobble much when you push it in any direction. Another sign of it being bad is if the boot is torn on the CV end because that means dirt and junk is getting up in there and ruining the joint. There is a more detailed thread on here somewhere with pics of what to look for. I'll see if I can find it. I think I posted in it.


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post #7 of 49 Old 04-25-2012, 04:29 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SolidStateS15 View Post
The CV joint is NOT serviceable. The whole shaft needs to be replaced which isn't hard to do. It just unbolts out. If you can get a new double U-Joint model go for that because it won't wear out as fast as the CV. The only way to really test it is just to check for play in the shaft. It should be tight and not wobble much when you push it in any direction. Another sign of it being bad is if the boot is torn on the CV end because that means dirt and junk is getting up in there and ruining the joint. There is a more detailed thread on here somewhere with pics of what to look for. I'll see if I can find it. I think I posted in it.
Yes, I was afraid that it won't be servicable. I have read mixed reviews on changing the configuration of the joint - This one lasted for about 200k so I don't expect the truck will make it another 200k - at least not in my ownership. The sickening thing is - a '02 Dakota Quad cab Sport 4x4 is only going for about $4000.00 around here - so there is no point in trying to sell it. Hard to believe that a nice truck like that does not hold any value.
There doesnt seem to be any play in the joints on the shaft when pushing up an down but there is at least 1/4-1/2 of play when rotating it - sometimes you can feel that slack when you left off the gas and step on it.
I will try to find more info on it as well, I just haven't had much luck over the last few days.
Thanks for the help!

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post #8 of 49 Old 04-27-2012, 06:42 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SolidStateS15 View Post
The CV joint is NOT serviceable. The whole shaft needs to be replaced which isn't hard to do. It just unbolts out. If you can get a new double U-Joint model go for that because it won't wear out as fast as the CV. The only way to really test it is just to check for play in the shaft. It should be tight and not wobble much when you push it in any direction. Another sign of it being bad is if the boot is torn on the CV end because that means dirt and junk is getting up in there and ruining the joint. There is a more detailed thread on here somewhere with pics of what to look for. I'll see if I can find it. I think I posted in it.
So searching around the internet, I found a thread in which the guy sourced a "rebuild kit" for the CV Joint on the front drive shaft. I am going to remove my shaft this weekend to see if my problem disappears - if so I will be buying the kit. it's $109.00 at Rockauto as opposed to $350.00 - $400.00 for a whole new shaft. It is manufactured by Dorman.

DORMAN Part # 932303
Rear; 4WD; Transfer Case end on Front Prop Shaft

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post #9 of 49 Old 05-03-2012, 03:09 AM
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I paid less than 300 for my new one. I wouldn't rebuild it, but if you are then do both joints to be safe. no sense in just doing 1 while you have it out.


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post #10 of 49 Old 05-04-2012, 08:19 PM Thread Starter
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well the vibration is not caused by the front driveshaft. The u joints on the rear driveshaft are only about 6 months old so doubt if that is the issue either. Maybe tire balance issue?
Still have a snapping noise in the front end

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post #11 of 49 Old 05-08-2012, 08:59 PM
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it's either the CV axles or the hub bearings then.


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post #12 of 49 Old 05-09-2012, 02:18 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SolidStateS15 View Post
it's either the CV axles or the hub bearings then.
Thanks for the good news. Both front hubs are new(er) driver's side 9 months, passenger side 12 months. While I agree that the hubs are probably not the highest quality - the symptoms I have now are not the same as they were when the hubs were going bad. The original hubs were howling and pronounced when moving the sterring wheel from one side to the next. The symptoms I have now is a vibration under the truck - just like when my rear driveshaft ujoints were going bad. I just replaced those back in October - I tried to move the joints looking for play but there doesn't seem to be any. and the truck shakes when applying the brakes.
I am wondering about the following -
control arm bushings (originals)
tie rod ends - inner and outer (driver's side outer is new - rest is original)
ball joints - upper and lower (passenger side lower is new - rest is original)
shocks - I believe all are original
swaybar bushings - I believe are original
axles - originals.
I guess there is also the chance that it could be front or rear diff issues - or rear axles?
Can anyone tell me what they think may be the most possible issue based on my symptoms?

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post #13 of 49 Old 05-10-2012, 02:34 AM
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bushings and ball joints aren't going to make this type of vibration issue. it has to be something that is also in motion and "off" somehow causing the wobble and vibration. you say it happens when applying the brakes? if it's only when braking then it's the brake rotors, but if it's all the time while driving them it's drive train or the wheels themselves.

have the front cv axles looked at, and the wheels rotated and balanced if they haven't been for a while. the rear axles aren't going to vibrate, as they don't wear out themselves, just the bearings which would howl or grind. the diffs would also howl and grind, no vibrate so much.


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post #14 of 49 Old 05-10-2012, 01:33 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SolidStateS15 View Post
bushings and ball joints aren't going to make this type of vibration issue. it has to be something that is also in motion and "off" somehow causing the wobble and vibration. you say it happens when applying the brakes? if it's only when braking then it's the brake rotors, but if it's all the time while driving them it's drive train or the wheels themselves.

have the front cv axles looked at, and the wheels rotated and balanced if they haven't been for a while. the rear axles aren't going to vibrate, as they don't wear out themselves, just the bearings which would howl or grind. the diffs would also howl and grind, no vibrate so much.
Yes - it happens when applying the brakes which does feel like warped rotors but the vibration that I am getting from underneath the floorboard is noticable at low revs and speeds like 50-55kms, 60-65kms and 70-75kms. front brakes are fairly new - last August, again - not high quality parts but they would not because the driveline vibration - I wouldn't think.

The tires were installed and balanced last November - I am beginning to think it may be a front axle even though the boots look to be in good shape and I do not feel any play in them when I try to move them by hand.
This weekend, I think I will raise the rear end and look at the rear driveshaft while it is in gear, as well as rotate the tires to eliminate those posibilities.
So on a 4x4, is it ok to just raise the rear tires and put it in drive? I ask because the front driveshaft spins as well - I think.
Thanks for the help!

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post #15 of 49 Old 05-10-2012, 10:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Newbie View Post
Yes - it happens when applying the brakes which does feel like warped rotors but the vibration that I am getting from underneath the floorboard is noticable at low revs and speeds like 50-55kms, 60-65kms and 70-75kms. front brakes are fairly new - last August, again - not high quality parts but they would not because the driveline vibration - I wouldn't think.

The tires were installed and balanced last November - I am beginning to think it may be a front axle even though the boots look to be in good shape and I do not feel any play in them when I try to move them by hand.
This weekend, I think I will raise the rear end and look at the rear driveshaft while it is in gear, as well as rotate the tires to eliminate those posibilities.
So on a 4x4, is it ok to just raise the rear tires and put it in drive? I ask because the front driveshaft spins as well - I think.
Thanks for the help!

do not just raise the rear on a 4wd and put the truck in drive especially if you have an electronic shift transfer case or all wheel drive if its all wheel drive and the rear wheels are off the ground it will start spinning the front tires and the truck will drive itself off the jack stands and run you over. if the truck has a carrier bearing i would check that to make sure it is not bad and causing the problem

i'm not a complete idiot, some parts are missing.
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