Dakota Durango Forum banner

2001 durango throwing 3 codes

8K views 9 replies 2 participants last post by  01durango 
#1 ·
So this is my first post BUT I've actually been using this website a lot lately for help :) so thank you everyone!

So I have a friend with a 2001 durango 4x4 4.7L v8. The new issues are 3 codes and I pulled them today using the on/off key trick.

I should start by what the car does...At xmas she drove 2 hours to see her parents and when she pulled into the driveway the truck just shut off, no sputter just off. Then it took a few min to start up, but then it ran fine and she parked it in the garage. Then yesterday she was driving home from the mall and it happened at a red light, after a few cranks it started back up and then shut off in her driveway when she pulled in. This lead me to google and it seems the pcm connection or itself on this years is common to break and do this?



P1599
P0121
P0455

So P1599 may explain why her AC doesnt work and defrost. I have googled and looked on the site and cant find any trouble shooting for this issue.

P0121 Is a tps is not throwing proper voltage, but from reading this could be the tps, pcm or iac.. I was going to start by taking the IAC out and clean it.

P0455 - evap issue. I was going to look at the evap canister (under driver side in front of gas tank and near cat converter i think?) see if the hoses were cracked.

Any more insight or help on how I can trouble shoot this would be very helpful. She has to work Monday and is leery of driving it.
 
See less See more
#2 ·
ok so I took the IAC out and cleaned it, pretty black and carboned.

For the AC issue, I heard talk of a ac relay or ac condensor relay that could cause it?

I looked quick for the evap and found a rectangular like canister infront/next to the gas tank with 2 hoses. Is that the evap? hoses looked ok.
 
#3 ·
Helps if you put the code definitions in the post so we don't have to look them up as well...

p0121 - TPS voltage low. Change the TPS, common part to go bad. If problem persists as a p0121, there are ways to modify the sensor and alter voltage...easy to do.

p0455 - evap, large leak. Check all the hoses. Under the hood and at teh canister near the fuel tank. Very common issues, dealer should still sell a kit to replace the hoses.

p1599 - A/C pressure sensor, low voltage. Not sure, could be a bad contact somewhere, could be a bad pressure sensor...hard to diagnose that one.
 
#4 ·
Ah...sorry had a bit of..lazy brain fart there. thanks for the descriptions I have some detailed ones...

P0121 (M) TPS Voltage Does Not Agree With MAP TPS signal does not correlate to MAP sensor signal.
P0121 (M) Accelerator Position Sensor (APPS) Signal Voltage Too Low APPS voltage input below the minimum acceptable voltage.

P1599 A/C Pressure Sensor Volts Too Low A/C pressure sensor input below minimum acceptable voltage.
P1599 A/C Sensor Volts Input Low Problem detected in air conditioning electrical circuit.

P0455 (M) Evap Leak Monitor Large Leak Detected A large leak has been detected in the evaporative sysem.


UPDATE:
So after I installed the cleaned up IAC and bought a new TPS at advanced auto ($35) while also pulling the neg battery and letting it sit for a few min. The truck is driving normal..BUT now the 4x4 lights (2wd, 4hi,4low) dont light up.... odd but when switched to the choice it seems to work, just no indicator light.
 
#6 ·
haha I hope so, I had her take it to a parking lot and switch through the modes and they seemed to work so I told her the bulb probably burned out even though it worked earlier that day. The problem is each mode has a bulb and all 3 are out...I need to replace the fan speed resister so maybe I'll look into the bulbs.
 
#7 ·
NEW ISSUE!!!
I replaced the blower motor resitor and found there were 2 connections inside they were pretty fried, the ground/black was melted. When I plugged the new one in the 2 low settings still worked but the high 2 didnt. What are my options on replacing that connector? or do I have to cut that and solder it to the resistor?
 
#8 ·
Ohh, you're talking the green indicator. I thought you meant the backlighting. Those are LED and part of the circuit board, can't do anything with them and they shouldn't ever go bad. Not sure what to tell ya there, especially if the system is working, just not indicating.

As for the blower resistor, I'd see about chopping the plug off of a junkyard truck. Probably get it cheap and it'd be a much better route than soldering direct to the resistor.
 
#9 ·
indicator lights - hmm I asked my dodge mechanic friend and he said theres a switch on the transfercase that may of gone bad to cause that too. He also stated that if it physically works but lights are out it may not be worth fixing.

Blow motor resistor harness - well i googled some more and found dodge sells a part for it and its common....

Part is 05017124AA

I will call dodge tomorrow see if they have it. I hear its about $80. :/

Also from what I read and another mechanic, the actual blower motor is faulty and draws too much current thus causing the harness to melt to the resistor plug. So maybe I need to buy the harness and blower motor to remedy this...blower is $104 at napa..
 
#10 · (Edited)
Okay today I installed a blower motor ($99 at oreilys), the dodge blower motor resister harness ($88 at dodge) and the new resistor I had bought a couple days ago ($8 dodge). Well its all in and all working, man not a lot of room to work under there. I wanted to solder the harness in but I needed a third arm/hand and that didnt happen so I got some splices and also used the shrink tube (included in the harness) then wrapped up the whole thing in electrical tape and tucked it on top of the vent pipe.. ugh would rather not do that again... Here are a few pics, I have a work trip I need to leave for so I was in a hurry and didnt get pics during the process BUT this is the directions I followed, Link at bottom, posted by a different forum member tim.

My pics:
Old resistor


New harness with wires plugged in to connector and trimmed, used the Green 14gauge wire:


Car harness wires and old connector plug. Wires are stripped and ready for splicing.


Wire harnesses together and you can see the shrink tube.



Tims website:
http://mysite.verizon.net/vzew8gyh/id1.html
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top