What brand of ball joints to buy

[Mavs79]

Should I get the Mogg or the TRW. The TRW brand is cheaper. I have to pick up the parts today so I can't order them online. I have never heard of TRW.

[1999DakAm52]

I'd go with moog. The saying goes, "You get what you pay for!".

[caulk04]

TRW aren't bad...

My lowers are Moog, my left upper is a Duralast (only thing I could find on short notice, doesn't seem bad) and the right upper is still one of the factory recll joints.

[Mavs79]

The reason I am looking at ball joints and shocks is because the tire place told me my front tires are cupped and that it could be caused by shocks and or ball joints. I know my upper ball joints have been replaced by the factory recall. It is a 4x4 '03.

I have rotated the tires every 5K.

I even replaced the wheel hub assembly on the passenger side. Now that I think about it the cupping looks worse on the driver's side.

What are your guys thoughts.

[99Dakota]

lets see. first i replaced all 4 balljoints with MOOG. wore out even with proper greasing within a year. replaced with TRW. Driver side upper went few months later. replaced with a cheap Parts Master balljoint or something like that ($7) following after that the pass side upper went. replaced with samething. ill tell u, those $7dollar balljoints are beating the shit right out of those 55/each ones.

lowers are still good though.

[99Dakota]

Originally Posted by Mavs79

The reason I am looking at ball joints and shocks is because the tire place told me my front tires are cupped and that it could be caused by shocks and or ball joints. I know my upper ball joints have been replaced by the factory recall. It is a 4x4 '03.

I have rotated the tires every 5K.

I even replaced the wheel hub assembly on the passenger side. Now that I think about it the cupping looks worse on the driver's side.

What are your guys thoughts.

cupping is caused from over inflation or under inflation.
lack of tire rotation.
shitty tires (ex. goodyear)

balljoints and tie rods will throw the alignment out when they are loose which would cause uneven tread wear and scuffing.

if your shocks and tierods and balljoints are still good why replace them? check the front end alignment if your really wondering.

[Dman98]

Originally Posted by 99Dakota

lets see. first i replaced all 4 balljoints with MOOG. wore out even with proper greasing within a year. replaced with TRW. Driver side upper went few months later. replaced with a cheap Parts Master balljoint or something like that ($7) following after that the pass side upper went. replaced with samething. ill tell u, those $7dollar balljoints are beating the shit right out of those 55/each ones.

lowers are still good though.

Here's my post on the subject; http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/...ad.php?t=99845

[l1tech]

Originally Posted by 99Dakota

cupping is caused from over inflation or under inflation.
lack of tire rotation.
shitty tires (ex. goodyear)

balljoints and tie rods will throw the alignment out when they are loose which would cause uneven tread wear and scuffing.

if your shocks and tierods and balljoints are still good why replace them? check the front end alignment if your really wondering.

Tire cupping is caused by a suspension issue, namely shock/strut performance. If the shock or strut is weak what happens is that the tire starts to bounce on the road and then you get your high/low spots (cupping). Tire rotation doesn't have alot to do with it other than if you get the tires off of the weak axle the wear won't be as noticeable. Tire imbalance also contributes to tire cupping becuase it can have the same affect as worn shocks do...to a certain extent.

[porksoda]

I used TRW's and I havent had a problem.
But TRW's or Moog are both good choices!

[dak1]

moogs are the best

[brad81987]

Ive been told the Raybestos Professional Grade is decent. Anyone have any experience with those? Both my Moog lowers have torn boots..... but I did have it lifted for a while and wheeled it a little bit so I might have brought that on myself....

[6115]

Replace with raybestos joints, they were originally Spicer/Dana named(but still manufactured by dana/spicer), but changed the name to "Raybestos" for dumb marketing strategies[1].

Spicer joints have many advantages campained to moogs, I like the fact they come with high grade hardware vs moog's low grade, they come painted with a rust resistant coating vs moog's bare metal coating, and most importantly they come with poly boots vs moog's rubber so you wont have any boot problems again! They seem better overall engineered geared more-so toward quality vs cost-analysis benefit bullshit. They are also used on many OEM high end vehicles. DANA and SPICER makes products for vehicles ranging from rear-ends to brakes, they've been around forever (ever hear of the D60?)and make good well engineered OEM products Vs federal mogul (federal mogul is purely aftermarket based company, makes MOOG, nothing wrong with MOOG tho)


Still believe Moog is better? hell I'll let pictures tell the story, decide for yourself!
A MOOG K6236

the DANA/SPICER equivalent

Here's my own picture
BRAND NEW MOOG stock 2wd upper on the far left
OE BRAND LIFTED UCA CENTER
RAYBESTOS 70's CHEVY RIGHT

Here's my suspension set up with OE brand balljoints (look at the tiny end nut size)

Here is the same set up with raybestos (big end nut size, poly boot, look at the thickness of the casting vs the OE brand)


You can buy them from rock auto (cheapest price) "raybestos joint" professional grade or at napa, re-badged under the "premium quality" line.
you can get em at napa but expect to shell out $60- $100 each

Rockauto>Dodge>YR>Dakota/Durango>engine size> Suspension> balljoint
(select the balljoint for upper/lower 2wd/4wd)
RAYBESTOS Part ####### More Info {Professional Grade}

Source:

[1]http://www.raybestos.com/wps/portal/...rand+unveiled/

[Dman98]

Originally Posted by nick02

Replace with raybestos joints, they were originally Spicer/Dana named(but still manufactured by dana/spicer), but changed the name to "Raybestos" for dumb marketing strategies[1].

Spicer joints have many advantages campained to moogs, I like the fact they come with high grade hardware vs moog's low grade, they come painted with a rust resistant coating vs moog's bare metal coating, and most importantly they come with poly boots vs moog's rubber so you wont have any boot problems again! They seem better overall engineered geared more-so toward quality vs cost-analysis benefit bullshit. They are also used on many OEM high end vehicles. DANA and SPICER makes products for vehicles ranging from rear-ends to brakes, they've been around forever (ever hear of the D60?)and make good well engineered OEM products Vs federal mogul (federal mogul is purely aftermarket based company, makes MOOG, nothing wrong with MOOG tho)


Still believe Moog is better? hell I'll let pictures tell the story, decide for yourself!
A MOOG K6236

the DANA/SPICER equivalent

Here's my own picture
BRAND NEW MOOG stock 2wd upper on the far left
OE BRAND LIFTED UCA CENTER
RAYBESTOS 70's CHEVY RIGHT

Here's my suspension set up with OE brand balljoints (look at the tiny end nut size)

Here is the same set up with raybestos (big end nut size, poly boot, look at the thickness of the casting vs the OE brand)


You can buy them from rock auto (cheapest price) "raybestos joint" professional grade or at napa, re-badged under the "premium quality" line.
you can get em at napa but expect to shell out $60- $100 each

Rockauto>Dodge>YR>Dakota/Durango>engine size> Suspension> balljoint
(select the balljoint for upper/lower 2wd/4wd)
RAYBESTOS Part ####### More Info {Professional Grade}

Source:

[1]http://www.raybestos.com/wps/portal/...rand+unveiled/

Thanks for the info, I'll be switching to Raybesto when repairs are needed. I especially like the poly boots, something Moog should use. The Raybesto's have a lifetime warranty, just like Moog. My main problem with Moog are boots that don't last long and replacing the whole joint just for boots can't be cost effective.