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44RE Front/Rear Band Adjustment With Pics

64K views 25 replies 14 participants last post by  Mt.Hoodlum 
#1 · (Edited)
So for about the third time when my wife and I left the house this morning the truck flared when shifting from 2-3 gear. This was the worst so far this morning, RPM's jumping about 400 or so before it shifted. It only happens during the first shift when cold, but seems to be just fine after that when the car is warmed up a little. I had done a complete tune up on my Durango except changing the tranny fluid and adjusting the bands, the one thing I probably should have done first......So anyways its pretty straight forward with a Haynes manual, just follow the directions and make sure you use an IN. LB. torque wrench, not a FT. Lb.!!!! The hardest part was trying to fit a wratchet/wrench up above the pan to get to the front band adjusting screw lock nut. Finally found something that worked. This was done on a 99' Durango/5.2L/4wd/44re trans with 82k on it.

So here is the Front Band Adjusting Screw and Lock Nut. Its located on the drivers side of the transmission casing above the transmission pan. I simply removed that spring from the right side to gain easier access to it. You want to loosen the Lock nut about 4-5 turns, than tighten the adjusting screw to 72in. lbs. Then you back out the adjusting screw 2 1/4 turns, and then tighten the lock nut.


Here are the tools I used to loosen the lock nut and tighten the adjusting screw. No extentions would work with a wratchet as you have very little room to get in there. I finally found that a 1/2" breaker bar (my breaker bar is also bent and has a swivel head which made things easier) with a 2 inch extention and regular 3/4" socket (not a deep socket) fit perfectly in there and was long enough and had enough umph to break the lock nut as mine was very tight. For the adjusting screw I used my 1/4", inch lb. torque wrench with a swivel extension, and a 1/4" to 3/8" extension, to a 3/8" torx bit (the kind that are fixed to a socket), I believe T40 but I dont remember sorry. I was not able to hold the adjusting screw while tightening the lock nut as I used a socket to tighten the nut, so I just winged it and watched my mark I made with paint on the screw and it only moved about 1/8-maybe 1/4 turn or so while tightening the lock nut so I am not going to worry about it. Next time I will back it out an extra 1/4-1/2 turn and then by the time its tightened it should be just right.


The rear band was much easier, you have to remove the transmission pan and drain the fluid for this one as it is located on the valve body. You also have to remove the Transmission filter so this is a good time to throw a new filter on (filter is held on with 2 small torx bit screws). It is located on the rear passenger side of the valve body, its the nut/screw on the black thing (<i am not transmission expert by far....) there in the corner. Same thing with the rear band, loosen the lock nut 4-5 turns, tighten the adjusting screw to 72in. lbs., but on this one you back it out 4 turns, then tighten your lock nut.


Now the Rear Band locknut and screw are different sizes/types than the front band. The rear lock nut is 9/16" and I just used an open ended wrench for it, and the adjusting screw is that oddball square head bolt. I was told you had to have an 8point socket for it or the square head socket, but turns out a 1/4" 6point socket fit just perfect. This was so much easier as I put the 1/4" socket on a screwdriver and was able to hold the adjusting screw while I tightened the lock nut with the open ended wrench. Also I just marked the bottom of my screwdriver, instead of the screw like I did on the front, and used that to count while backing it out the required turns, much much easier.


This was the first time I have adjusted bands and it has always scared me, but in fact is a very very simple standard procedure you should be doing as routine maintence while changing your transmission fluid/filter. Hopefully this thread will help some people in the future as you can just go and grab the tools you need instead of trying 50 different socket and extension combinations like I did. The shifts seem smoother to me already, but we will have to see tomorrow morning when its cold to see if it really helped.
 
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#3 ·
Thanks.

Took it for a drive this morning and all shifts seemed to be just perfect, shifting around 1800/1900 rpms or so. All smooth and no flaring so far, hopefully I get a good amount of miles out of this tranny. If not, I will probably be doing my very first rebuild....that will be a fun write up.
 
#7 ·
I have no idea. If you dont have a Haynes/Chilton manual go to any auto parts store and pick one up, it will tell you. I would look for you but mine is only for 98'-99' Durangos.
45RFE

1999-UP

The 45RFE was originally used in the 1999 Jeep Cherokee. In 2000 it also started to be used in the Dodge Durango and Dakota.

This is a computer controlled rear wheel drive overdrive transmission.

There are no bands in this transmission. It's operation is very similar to the A604 and 42LE.
http://www.charlietranny.com/45RFE.htm


As I said the 45RFE is a totally different transmission from the RE versions.. (well almost totally different)
 
#8 ·
45RFE

1999-UP

The 45RFE was originally used in the 1999 Jeep Cherokee. In 2000 it also started to be used in the Dodge Durango and Dakota.

This is a computer controlled rear wheel drive overdrive transmission.

There are no bands in this transmission. It's operation is very similar to the A604 and 42LE.
http://www.charlietranny.com/45RFE.htm


As I said the 45RFE is a totally different transmission from the RE versions.. (well almost totally different)
Not to be a smart ass, you did say that but you never answered Project Dogs question......

Thanks
 
#14 ·
I meant to update a while back but I have been so busy with moving.....It started acting up again shortly after adjusting the bands, but the issue seemed to be due to low fluid. When I checked the fluid after the job I did not have the Dango in Neutral, I had it in park. I checked it a few days later in Neutral at op temp as you are supposed to and it was about 1 1/2 quarts low. Have not had any flaring issues even in the cold since I topped off the fluid. I was gearing up for a new VB and rebuild so hopefully I dont have to go that route.
 
#15 ·
great write up could this also cause wierd shifting from 1st to 2nd, and a unpredictable downshift at times?
 
#16 ·
I decided to get under my truck and tackle this job today. Unfortunately, I'm on my back under the truck while doing this, and I just couldn't get to the front band adjuster at all. Mind you, I got so frustrated that I gave up for the day before disengaging that little spring, but I'll try that tomorrow.

Did you go at it right from under the truck? What was your vantage point? I just want to make sure I'm getting at it from the proper spot, I'd hate to think I could have reached through the wheel well or something when I should have. Like I said, I've given up for the day, I'll tackle again tomorrow..

Yep, great write-up!
 
#20 ·
Did you ever get it?

Great write up!!! This is the same thing my 99 Dakota does when cold! Once warm ( 3 miles) it is fine! Mine is a 3.9L with the auto (42RE?) and two wheel drive. I am getting ready to do a fluid & filter change in a week so this hit at the right time.
Thanks again.
Just an update, this did not fix my flare. It definatly is better, but still have a flare/hesitation inbetween gears, 1st/2nd or 2nd/3rd i dont remember right now (wife mainly drives it). Its only the first shift when cold, so we just make sure we let it warm up plenty and driver it real easy for the first few miles. We will see how long it makes it, not gonna do a rebuild until i have to.

where do u get an in/lb torque wrench or can u use a ft/lb wrend if u do the math and convert the number?
I got my in/lb from harbor freight on sale for $20, its a 1/4in. drive. I was told not to by it from there because they were cheap......I bought it anyways, because well...it was cheap, but when I put in a new valve body in our Explorer (before this job) it had to be so precise (20some odd bolts specificaly torqued to in/lb) i was concerned so I bought a crafstman from sears for $70. As soon as I got the crafstman home I pulled it out of the package to check it out, when I pulled my hand off the handle i noticed that the "crafstman" lable had rubbed off a little bit......I rubbed the in/lb numbers and they all started rubbing off and were no longer visible. I was sure it was defective so I took it back to exchange. Went to the back with the guy and turns out it was the same on all of them, the numbers all easily rubbed off on about 4 ratchets before I just got a refund.

My harbor freight one hasnt failed me yet.......I would not ever use a ft/lb and try to convert, jobs like this are to important. Just buy the right tools.
 
#17 ·
Sorry you got so frustrated, are you sure you are looking at the correct screw for the front adjuster and have the same trans? You should easily see it while laying there. I had the truck up on my ramps (front wheels only) and was laying on my creeper with my feet towards the passenger door and my head towards the driver side door. Good luck.
 
#19 ·
where do u get an in/lb torque wrench or can u use a ft/lb wrend if u do the math and convert the number?
 
#23 ·
I've turned a lot of wrenches in my time, and this is probably one of the most tedious things I've ever had to do. In the end, it was worth it, my tranny is butter-smooth now. I found it much easier to use a bunch of extensions and go in through the wheel well. Also, swivel extensions aren't good for torquing things to spec.

I also drilled out the center of a 3/4" socket and welded it into a 1" box wrench, that way I could keep the torx on the screw while I tightened the lock nut. Now I have the tool to do it again, but I pray that I won't.
 
#26 ·
I've turned a lot of wrenches in my time, and this is probably one of the most tedious things I've ever had to do. In the end, it was worth it, my tranny is butter-smooth now. I found it much easier to use a bunch of extensions and go in through the wheel well. Also, swivel extensions aren't good for torquing things to spec.

I also drilled out the center of a 3/4" socket and welded it into a 1" box wrench, that way I could keep the torx on the screw while I tightened the lock nut. Now I have the tool to do it again, but I pray that I won't.
Thats a great idea but unfortanetly I dont have the knowledge or tools to do something like that...I eventually am going to learn how to weld, so many times that would have saved me a ton of work on certain jobs.

I have LOOKED into doing mine... and I have been turning wrenches on my own for many years, and I wont even consider doing mine unless I have a lift.... now that is what I call no flippin room to work!!! Between the front driveshaft, and everything else in the way to get my arms up there... NO WAY!! lol I wouldn't suggest doing this project to anyone without getting it up in the air high enough to at least sit up. I hate working on my back...
I lift would be nice to have but working cramped up in tight spots is the price we pay to save money and do work ourselves. This job wasnt bad at all once I found the right tools to fit. Having right tools is everything and so often I find myself without them......
 
#25 ·
I have LOOKED into doing mine... and I have been turning wrenches on my own for many years, and I wont even consider doing mine unless I have a lift.... now that is what I call no flippin room to work!!! Between the front driveshaft, and everything else in the way to get my arms up there... NO WAY!! lol I wouldn't suggest doing this project to anyone without getting it up in the air high enough to at least sit up. I hate working on my back...
 
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