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01 Durango will start but dies after 2-3 seconds

6K views 10 replies 4 participants last post by  AandPDan 
#1 · (Edited)
2001 Dodge Durango SLT 4.7L 4x4. I have quite a bit of history in case it is significant. It all started when the transmission stranded my family. I had it towed to a transmission shop. They could not diagnose it because it would start up and die after 2-3 seconds. They said the torque converter was locked up and needed new transmission. I towed it home to work on the engine problem and decided I would buy a used tranny and intall it myself after I got the engine running. It would start up and run perfect for 2-3 seconds and die. I was checking the emissions lines for cracks and found one that I thought I would replace between the leak detector pump, manifold, and purge solenoid. The battery was drained, so I took it to be charged and discovered it had a bad cell. Got a new battery. I proceeded to pull the battery tray to access the leak detector pump ( i broke a fitting while removing the a hose....should never work on plastic parts in the cold weather)and replace it with a salvaged unit as well as the purge valve( the hoses were connect and I pull all of it a the salvage yard together and didn't dare try removing hoses since they were in good condition). I had to move the relay/fuse box what little I could to pull battery tray ( I am mentioning in the event it might be of importance). I installed the salvaged parts, cleaned the battery cables and terminal and installed new battery. The engine started right up and after several minutes I put in drive and to my surprise it engaged and I drove around the block and then worked my way up to 30 miles. I had a check engine light on with P1495 code but it ran perfect. Then my wife drove to the bus stop and it started the same problem again of starting up but only running for 2 -3 seconds. I am new to this forum and any help would be appreciated. I don't want to pay another towing fee just yet unless I have to.
 
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#6 ·
I am not that technical so excuse my ignorance. I thought it might be a bad wire or something and moving the relay/fuse box helped solve my problem. It is a mystery. The only code I am getting is P1495 which is leak detector pump circuit. I checked the TPS and IAM.
 
#9 ·
Problem solved

For all you do it yourself guys. I determined what the problem was.

After reading hundreds of post, I thought the cam shaft sensor might be bad. I didn;t have the meter to check it so I bought the sensor and replaced.

That didn't fix my problem. Still had the same leak detector pump open circuit code.I looked again and found the electrical connection loose on the leak detector pump hence the P1495 code. After that was solved, i could read the next code which was P1695 ( i think that was it.......indicated the key didn;t have a transponder). I remembered that I had a spare made and it was for unlocking the door and didn;t have a transponder.

My problem was the key. I put the original key in the ignition and as is well.

What an idiot, but now I know the cam shaft sensor was not the problem and I learned that the codes are accurate as far as I have experienced.
 
#11 ·
Do you have any codes? Try the key dance. With the truck off, turn the key to run (not start), back to off, then to run, back to off, and then leave it in run. Any codes will display in the odometer.

How's the battery? Dakota's do not like a battery even remotely weak. It may start the truck but not be enough to keep it running.

How's the fuel pressure? You can rent a gauge from most auto part stores.
 
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