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Engine noise on startup goes away after a few seconds... HELP!

34K views 31 replies 9 participants last post by  greendurango 
#1 ·
Hello Everyone!

I have got a noise on Startup that last for a few seconds on my 2001 Durango 4x4 w/ 4.7 engine, at first I thought it was my exhaust manifolds leaking or making a noise, well I replaced both exhaust manifolds and put new Remflex gaskets on, I took off the belt to see if the noise went away, to eliminate the water pump, pulleys, fan, etc, the noise was still there So, I am back to the drawing board I have swiched oil filters, I was using Mopar filters, then I went to the Napa Gold Filter still no change in the noise it all I was running Mobil 1 5w30, then switched to Pennzoil Ultra 5w30 still no change, I downloaded a sound clip for you all to hear, ==== Thanks for your help!============


http://s669.photobucket.com/albums/vv55/greendurango/?action=view&current=0709130337.mp4
 
#7 ·
The audio is so compressed I can't pick out any weird sounds excepts a couple faint knocks on start up. Is that what you're talking about is the knocking noise? I don't see how a new oil filter can make an engine noisy, its gotta be an internal problem.
 
#10 ·
Lifter clatter at start up then oil gets to them and quiets down.
 
#12 · (Edited)
The 4.7 is OHC.. It doesn't have lifters.. :) It has hydraulic lash adjusters.. But that sounds like what it is. My truck had a similar noise, which went away after I flushed the engine.

I forget where I saw the recipe, but I've used it (about 30,000 miles ago) and this stuff works like industrial engine draino - the crap that comes out looks like oil that's been in service for 60,000 miles. You will need 3 cheapo oil filters (they'll only be run for 30 minutes each), one of your normal oil filters, two gallons of kerosene, one large bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil, seven quarts of cheapo 10w30, and 6 quarts of your favorite 5w30 or 0w30 oil.

  • Bring engine to operating temperature then shut off
  • Drain oil thoroughly and change filter for one of the cheapos
  • Add 4 quarts of kerosene, 1 quart cheapo 10w30, and 1 pint Marvel Mystery Oil to the crankcase and start the engine.
  • DO NOT REV THE ENGINE OR DRIVE THE TRUCK UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES! IT MUST STAY AT IDLE AT ALL TIMES DURING THIS PROCESS!! Kerosene IS a lubricant, and it will protect your bearings at idle, but not much faster. Revving will cause you to spin a bearing and more
  • Allow engine to idle 30 minutes at operating temperature
  • Stop engine and immediately drain crankcase. Observe the color of what comes out.
  • Change oil filter for another cheapo
  • Refill with four quarts kerosene, one quart cheapo 10w30, and one pint MMM, Start engine and run another 30 minutes.
  • Stop engine and immediately drain crankcase. Observe what comes out - it will still be nasty but should be much lighter in color
  • Change oil filter for the last cheapo
  • Refill with FIVE quarts cheapo 10w30 and one QUART MMM. (This is just a 'final flush' to get rid of the kerosene.) Start engine and run another 30 minutes.
  • Stop engine and immediately drain crankcase (thoroughly - let it drain for a while so anything in the top of the engine has a chance to drip down). There shouldn't be much gunk left in the engine at this point, so what comes out should be much lighter than before.
  • Change oil filter for your regular quality one
  • Refill with 6 quarts of your favorite oil.

All "oil starvation" noises should be gone at this point.
 
#15 ·
The 4.7 is OHC.. It doesn't have lifters.. :) It has hydraulic lash adjusters.. But that sounds like what it is. My truck had a similar noise, which went away after I flushed the engine.

I forget where I saw the recipe, but I've used it (about 30,000 miles ago) and this stuff works like industrial engine draino - the crap that comes out looks like oil that's been in service for 60,000 miles. You will need 3 cheapo oil filters (they'll only be run for 30 minutes each), one of your normal oil filters, two gallons of kerosene, one large bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil, seven quarts of cheapo 10w30, and 6 quarts of your favorite 5w30 or 0w30 oil.

  • Bring engine to operating temperature then shut off
  • Drain oil thoroughly and change filter for one of the cheapos
  • Add 4 quarts of kerosene, 1 quart cheapo 10w30, and 1 pint Marvel Mystery Oil to the crankcase and start the engine.
  • DO NOT REV THE ENGINE OR DRIVE THE TRUCK UNDER ANY
    CIRCUMSTANCES! IT MUST STAY AT IDLE AT ALL TIMES DURING THIS PROCESS!!
    Kerosene IS a lubricant, and it will protect your bearings at idle, but not much faster. Revving will cause you to spin a bearing and more
  • Allow engine to idle 30 minutes at operating temperature
  • Stop engine and immediately drain crankcase. Observe the color of what comes out.
  • Change oil filter for another cheapo
  • Refill with four quarts kerosene, one quart cheapo 10w30, and one pint MMM, Start engine and run another 30 minutes.
  • Stop engine and immediately drain crankcase. Observe what comes out - it will still be nasty but should be much lighter in color
  • Change oil filter for the last cheapo
  • Refill with FIVE quarts cheapo 10w30 and one QUART MMM. (This is just a 'final flush' to get rid of the kerosene.) Start engine and run another 30 minutes.
  • Stop engine and immediately drain crankcase (thoroughly - let it drain for a while so anything in the top of the engine has a chance to drip down). There shouldn't be much gunk left in the engine at this point, so what comes out should be much lighter than before.
  • Change oil filter for your regular quality one
  • Refill with 6 quarts of your favorite oil.

All "oil starvation" noises should be gone at this point.
was your noise similar to mine? could this clog up your oil pump?
 
#13 ·
ahh yes. i wasnt thinking. im used to my ls series motors where it's a given chevy thing.

Ahh muffler bearings yes! check blinker fluid also.. may lead to noise
 
#16 ·
Yes it was similar to mine, and it was only noticeable after the truck sat for a bit. If you start it right back up it's not there.

As for clogging, you run that risk with any type of flush, even the canned products you buy in the store.. You even run that risk without doing it, because there's no telling what crud is in there that could break loose at random. The kerosene/MMM flush is about as powerful a solvent as you can use that still has lubricating qualities. The crap dissolves in it. It's not like a power flush that just breaks it off whole. But it carries a risk nonetheless.

That said, many people have done it, including myself with no ill effects - and it took care of the valvetrain noise. But there are horror stories as well. Mine was 30,000 miles ago so any related problems definitely would've shown themselves by now. But if you're not comfortable doing it, don't do it.
 
#17 ·
I got around to pulling the pass side valve cover off this morning, the inside of the head is really clean, no sludge or build up, the rockers are intact, BUT I found a problem I think, it the pass side timing chain it seems to me like there's a LOT of slack in it, I made a video check it out tell me what you think, is this normal? thanks!

 
#19 · (Edited)
It's very possible. There shouldn't be that much slack in it. The tensioners are hydraulic with a ratcheting detent system to keep the correct tension when the engine is shut off. If the detent pawl is broken, the tensioner will collapse fully when there is no oil pressure, causing the excess slack that is taken up immediately once the oil pump builds pressure and the tensioner piston extends (which makes the noise go away).
 
#21 ·
The instructions call for special tools, but all can be substituted. For example "Special Tool 8514" is simply a metal pin (looks like a fire extinguisher pin) that keeps the tensioner compressed prior to install or removal. It'll cost you $21, or you can just use a piece of steel wire. Special tool 8515 is just a large circular plate with two pairs of pins sticking out that go into the slots on the idler sprocket. The pins prevent the secondary chains from slipping off the sprockets or jumping teeth while you are working at the camshaft end. It'll cost you $85, or you can use a couple pieces of all-thread or metal dowel bent into a U shape.

Now seeing as you are going to have to tear this far into the engine anyway, I would replace the entire timing set, including both tensioners. That way there's no question of if the other one is on its way out, or if the chain will last. Replace the water pump too, while you're at it.
 
#24 ·
I've never used them, but their website says they are an importer.. I would call them and find out exactly where they are imported from, since the ultra low price screams Chinese crap. The whole set with the gears by Cloyes (made in the USA) was about $500 last I checked.
 
#28 ·
more progress… slow progress that's! I finally got the cover off after breaking 2 -3 jaw pullers! I made a video of one of the tensioners pass side it can be pushed down with finger it hardly has any tension on it, check it out, drivers side was pretty tight couldn't push up on it. more pics to come as well.

Video of tensioner:
 
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