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lowering a 2000 durango 2wd

6K views 19 replies 3 participants last post by  jrstone8264 
#1 ·
Hey guys im brand new to the forum, and fairly new to the durango/dakota world....wanting to lower my durango...ive read several different things but have never really messed with suvs...so im kinda lost...i dont want anything extreme maily sort of a performance stance....planning on doing the factory r/t wheels with some cooper cobra tires....but trying to get an idea on tire size as well....was thinking abt a 2/3 drop...but not sure mainly wanna drop the backend to level it out...any input would be greatly appreciated...also wanted to mention you guys are awesome....and have some of the sickest dakotas/durangos ive ever seen
 
#2 ·
Welcome! I've done a few different drops (3/5, 5/7, 2/5, and now 0/1.25) and for someone who's driven the truck for nine years it's pretty refreshing to be back up where I am now. A 2/3 shouldn't give any driveability problems though. I'd actually go with 1" up front with RT coil springs if I were you and 2-3 in the back, whatever you need to level it out. 2" could be done with blocks, but for 3" or more go with shackles and or hangers.
 
#3 ·
see ive done shackles on several trucks ive built but havent been able to find a kit for the durango....and i sort of understand the concept of the blocks but ive always done blocks for lift never lower lol....but from what i understand its the way the rearend is set up with the springs under the rearend....i mainly wanna level it down...i though abt lifting the front but decided lowering would be way cooler :)
 
#4 ·
If all you want to do is level it, throw some blocks in there. You're right, depends on the setup for lift vs. lower with blocks. Shackle and hanger kits are widely available for your Dur BTW.
 
#5 ·
how hard are those to install....i know my way around a garage pretty good...problem is i dont have a garage lol....working out of the driveway with a few floor jack...jackstands and some ratchets isnt as easy as the lift last forum i joined seemed like every one had a 3 bay garage in the backyard lol....
 
#6 ·
How easy are blocks? Cake! With a lift and impact I had it back on the ground in 15 minutes. With a jack and hand tools, still cake, just not so fast. Put the frame on jack stands, unbolt the u-bolts to release the axle from the frame, put the blocks in between, and then bolt it back together.
 
#8 ·
Basically blocks are blocks, not much to them. I was making stainless steel blocks and selling them, now there's an improvement. But am no longer so, it's just not worth my time for what people will pay for them. Stainless is just too dang hard. All I currently have on my suspension is 1.25" DIY stainless blocks. You can even buy the material yourself and drill and tap some holes, I have all the specs.
 
#9 ·
This is my most recent aluminum set, it's that easy. You need longer u-bolts though to compensate for the block.



And here's my complete stainless set I have on my truck

 
#10 ·
they should be more than around 35-40.00 to buy tho right? pretty sad...ive got a buddy that worked for 4 wheel parts in memphis n he always hooked me up. so i dont know much abt retail stuff lol...what abt rims n tires bidding on some 17 in r/t wheels....i wanna run cooper cobras...i figured ill have to drop the back abt 3 inches to get level cause mine came with the factory towing package....what size tires would you recommend
 
#11 ·
If you're going 3" I would avoid blocks. It can be done, be it won't be a fun ride. I haven't the slightest clue on tire size. Start a thread in the wheels and tires section and I'm sure others will jump and and help you out there. I think blocks are around $75 or so with u-bolts, but that's an educated guess.
 
#12 ·
ill do some measurement tomorrow in the day light....2" might be enough....and will do abt the wheels and tires section.....thanks for all the help...o yea can you pm on the specs....might give building them a shot....do the have to be drilled and tapped or just drilled
 
#15 ·
PM sent, no problem, rep me with the scale looking thing above my info on the right. :jester:
 
#19 ·
The ones I pictured are a solid hunk of 6061 aluminum with a stainless pin, that gets clamped down tight, there's really nothing that can go wrong. But mine are stainless for the simple reason that they are hard as hell and good forever.
 
#18 ·
yea ive been pricing them and weighing the pros and cons of blocks vs. shackles/hangers....i havent decided yet....i will be driving everyday roughly 50 miles so dont wanna sacrafice too much ride quality...but i think for now im gonna do some 2" steel blocks i found on ebay for like 35.00....i gotta have money to get the windows tinted n get my tail light issue fixed....also have a power steering leak i gotta get fixed ( first gotta find where its leaking from lol ) but i will get pics up when i get some time....ive been pulling all the emblems, trim and badges off...so might be a lil while before i get pics posted....
 
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