Dakota Durango Forum banner

Clutch fan replaced, now extreme roaring sound

37K views 42 replies 17 participants last post by  68BigfishCuda 
#1 ·
I had the clutch fan replaced on my 2002 4.7l Dakota a year ago and as soon as I got into the truck to leave the dealer it started roaring like an 18-wheeler. Turns out it is whenever the clutch fan kicks in. I am scaring people in parking lots!

We bought the truck new, and in the previous six years it never, EVER once made that sound. The second I left the dealership after having the clutch fan replaced, it started. Any idea of what this could be? Local repair shop is trying to tell me it must not have been working before, but I could tell when the clutch fan would come on before and it would make appropriate sounds and kick back off accordingly.

The local shop found the electric fan needs replacing -- could the previous dealer have damaged/disconnected it somehow so it didn't work, thus making the clutch fan run harder to keep up, thus making the noise? Any thoughts?
 
#2 ·
I replaced mine a few years ago with one from a local auto parts store. And sounds the say way, only thing im missing is the turbo noise for it to sound like a big rig:jester:.

Mine does sound like that only at low speeds, or after i start the truck. It only lasts a maybe 10-15 seconds before it goes away or to where Im not able to hear it any more. I have learned to live with it and never had a problem with it over heating.
 
#5 ·
Mine does sound like that only at low speeds, or after i start the truck. It only lasts a maybe 10-15 seconds before it goes away or to where Im not able to hear it any more. I have learned to live with it and never had a problem with it over heating.
Mines the same way...loud roar is normal for the first minute or so...cools the radiator faster on a hot heat soak....
 
#6 ·
Mine was the same way, never made a sound and then when I had my timing set and water pump replaced the shop discovered that I had about 2 inches of front to back play in the clutch. Now that I have a new one it does the roaring thing until it warms up a little, just the way it is.
 
#7 ·
mines the same way. roars for a lil bit upon start up. dies off within a minute or two. makes ppl turn heads though in parkin lots, lol.
 
#9 ·
Haha, yup. I thought it was wierd, mine started doing that all the time and on the highway it was absolutely nuts and I found out it was seized up. Replaced it and it still did it in town more than I liked so I just took it off and it still cools just fine.
 
#11 ·
Huh! I didn't realize you could do without it. So the electric fan is enough for the cooling? I might just have to try that.

One question about that: we do some towing with the truck -- will removing the clutch fan be an issue with that?

I had the shop replace the existing one last week and the new one is even worse! It roars almost constantly, at varying levels of intensity. I really miss the awesome engine sound this truck has without that God-awful roar.

I have heard the clutch fans are supposed to be stored in a certain direction on the shelf at the parts store because of the fluid in them. Is that an old-technology thing, or is that still true today? Nobody at the repair place or the parts store seemed to know what I was talking about when I asked them about it.
 
#12 ·
Ive towed my buddys boat, an enclosed trailer with all my belongings in it and the bed and the backseat of my QC all without the clutch fan, and all in the middle of the hot Texas summer, never had a problem cooling with the stock e-fan. Id say take it off, and keep it in the truck and if it starts to get hot, put that sucker back on, its simple enough.:mullet:
 
#13 ·
the roaring sound is the fan spinning, when it is cold or first started up a lot of times it sticks and doesn't spin. Mine does it all the time when it first turns on, if your E fan needs to be replaced then it might be running hot causing the clutch fan to stay on/roaring.
 
#14 ·
HALLELUJIA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

We pulled the clutch fan off a few minutes ago (very easy with a big-ass wrench and a big hammer) and took my baby for a test drive.

It is SO FREAKIN' AWESOME to be able to hear that rockin' V8 engine sound again! I can't really tell yet if it feels more responsive or not, but will see over the next few days.

Thank y'all so much for your help!
 
#24 ·
No issues so far with not having the clutch fan, although it hasn't been too hot outside. Sometimes the temp gets almost to the halfway mark and the e-fan will kick in and cool it right back down. I am EXTREMELY happy with the change.
 
#26 ·
I have a 2001 Durango that used to just roar occasionally at start up, but tonight began roaring constantly. Should I replace the clutch fan or just remove it?
If you have a factory e-fan, or plan on installing an aftermarket e-fan then remove and trash it.

Otherwise you will need to replace it, but I would just get an e-fan instead.
 
#30 ·
1 important piece of information here. Only remove the clutch fan and run the stock e-fan if your a 4.7L. The pushrod motors will overheat if you do this.


Also, the clutch fan is supposed to be stored in an upright position. Do not store it laying down. I have mine hanging on the garage wall, untill it either dissapears or someone says they need one and I give it to them.
 
#33 ·
I really wanted to hear Geoguys explanation of how a lower temp t-stat could prevent overheating. Huge misconception 99% of people have is that a lower temp t-stat will alleviate overheating...it won't. You have to think of a t-stat as a device that limits minimum temperature adn once that limit is reached the t-stat is of no consequence...on a vehicle with a properly functioning cooling system of course
 
#34 ·
Good point 1tech, you are correct. I may have been incorrect in the wording of my statement; however, I have noticed that my dash board temp gauge reads consistently lower after installing a 180 degree thermostat (even on long trips, hot days, towing, etc.). Also, I try to keep the cooling system clean and operating properly. Please forgive me for confusing the issue, but it seems logical that if the thermostat opens up earlier at 180 (as opposed to 190), and the cooling system is operating properly, it would maintain a lower operating temp. Now, that we understand when thermostats open, I guess, the real question is how high do engine operating temps get with a fully open thermostat and a properly operating cooling system? (I'm not trying to be a smartass or start an argument - just an ignorant question).
 
#39 ·
That little blurb in the owners manual does not mean that it is normal for it to happen nor does it say that it may operate at a higher temp due to high altitude and besides if altitude had that much of an affect on an engines cooling ability don't you think that the mfgs would have high altitude cooling packages. I may be completely off base here but IMO if you are idling and your temp gauge hits 260 you got issues
 
#41 ·
I thought the mechanical fan uses a fluid clutch similar to a torque converter. it doesn't realy "kick in" from temperature. it only allows it to slip when the engine rpm is too high for the fan.

When the engine and clutch is cold the cold fluid will not allow this freewheeling as much and will spin the fan faster... slowing down once the fluid warms up.
 
#42 · (Edited)
Well, it works like a torque converter when it's 'freewheeling' but can lock up to be pretty stiff. Next time you have the fan off look for the coiled bi-metallic spring in the front of the clutch. That moves with changes in temperatures and opens/closes valves inside to 'lock' the clutch. Not a perfect lock but close enough for the fan to pull its rated 10,000 cfm.

As for the idle overheat... I replaced my thermostat over the winter with a new 195 when my water pump took a crap and so far this summer I haven't gone over 210 on the gauge with 105 degree days with ac on high pulling from outside in stop and go traffic. Engine also warmed up much faster and to a colder temp than the OEM 195 did. Fan blows like mad when it gets even close to 210 which it didn't used to do indicating to me that some of the wax had probably leaked out of the old thermostat giving me my issue.
 
#43 ·
I have a 2005 Dodge Durango 5.7L Hemi and I also had the same problem with a very noisy fan clutch. After I replaced the water pump and the fan clutch I had a loud "revving" noise coming from the fan. At first I thought that by accident I installed the fan backwards but noticed that the fan clutch seemed defected because it didn't seem like it was releasing. I first thought it was because it was after-market so, I replaced it again with an OEM. The problem was worse. The fan was noisy not only when I started the truck but at low speeds and every light I stopped.
So far, the problem stopped by lubricating the center of the fan clutch. I tried WD-40 & Silicone Lube but doesn't seem to last long. What has done it better is a spray lubricant from Prolong I had for a long time in my garage. I just sprayed it, wipe off what dripped. I bought it years ago at Kragen Auto but since they became O'Reily they don't stock it. I don't know where else to get it unless its online.
I hope this info is helpful for anyone with the same problem....GO MOPAR!!!!
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top