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Transmission removal and installation

123K views 36 replies 17 participants last post by  Clement 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I believe that the seals in my transmission have gone bad and need to be replaced. I have a 2000 Durango 4x4 with a 5.9 engine.

I was wondering how much of a bear it is to pull the transmission on this vehicle. Of have done other small cars before but I don’t have a tranny jack.
Is there anything I should be aware of in advance?

Thx,
HS
 
#3 ·
You will hurt yourself trying to get a 46RE out alone without a tranny jack. The damn things weigh 250+ lbs without the T-case. It isn't that big of a job it is just a PITA. The top two bellhousing bolts are also hard to get at without a loooong extension or by using a flex head ratchet from the top.
 
#6 ·
it sucks, i just finished taking my 42RE out. There are some things you'll be cussing dodge for.

Get about 2 feet of extensions for the top two bolts, you will also need a universal. Take some electical tape and wrap it around the universal to stiffen it up also. There was one top bolt on the transfer case that was a bitch to remove. I finally got it out by using a short socket with a crows foot on it ( I have these sockets with a 3/4 hex on the outside). Yours might be different. The cooler lines usually get rusted and wont come off. I just cut em.


The "engine to transmission" support brackets are so stupid. I hope you enjoy that part of the tranny removal. :D
 
#7 ·
I took mine out a couple weeks ago, i used nothing but a bluepoint 3/8 ratchet set, a couple breaker bars, some pipes(more torque), a BFH, a couple screw drivers, a few jack stands and a couple floor jacks. Talk about the biggest PITA ever! took me 2 days and 2 of us to drop it out with the T-case attached. I will NOT be putting it back in until i can get a shop with air for the weekend.
 
#13 ·
I believe that the seals in my transmission have gone bad and need to be replaced. I have a 2000 Durango 4x4 with a 5.9 engine.

I was wondering how much of a bear it is to pull the transmission on this vehicle. Of have done other small cars before but I don’t have a tranny jack.
Is there anything I should be aware of in advance?

Thx,
HS
I've had mine out a couple times....I pull it out with the motor.
 
#17 ·
You should have 2 jacks, if you leave the exhaust in you must have one tranny jack because it is tight and you kinda bring it out and in on an angle, at least that's how I had to do it. Make sure you lock the 4 corners in with the brackets and then be able to loosen the front brackets so it will not interfere when you are putting it back in (brackets by the exhaust). Just so you know, I did this in my garage on the floor, I wish I had a real lift for this job.

Remove your distributor and the tranny dip stick first so you can lower it more without any damage. The bolt for the dip stick was also a bitch to get out and back in because you can't see it.

Top bolt on the transfer case was a bitch too, I used a 3" wrench and that worked great (lowered as much as I could). And the top bolts on the tranny from the top side of the engine with it lifted all the way up.

Another problem I had, the TC would not spin so I had to sand it down a little to get it to spin freely before I tightened the bolts to the flex plate, more wasted time...

This had taken me several days and nights so about 25 hours, that's just me, I didn't rush and swore a lot!!! I'm sure I can do it much quicker next time but it was PITA +3 for me. I had a lot of rust to deal with and my tranny would not break free very easy (bonded from all the salt). To shock the tranny free I used a 16" x 4" piece of steel and bolted it to the front of the bell housing, used a 6' skinny fence post that went through to the front and shocked it free with a piece of wood and a 10# sledge hammer, I will never buy a car or a truck that was owned by someone right in front of the shore.

It takes about 10 to 15 minutes just to fill the TC so hats off for the guy who did it in 3.5 hours. WOW!!!

Hope I can save someone some of the grief I went through...
 
#21 ·
id get raped by the dealer before i ever pulled a tranny without the truck being on a lift.

only thing i can recommend is leave the t-case attached for the removal. will save time from having to reach those ahrd to reach t-case bolts on top. make sure before pulling everything to verify ALL connectors are disconnected. BE CAREFUL on the transmission module harness DO NOT BREAK THE EARS!

Air is your freind, use it if you have it.
 
#22 ·
PS.... this might help you... you can thank me later.... shh.

"The overdrive unit can be removed and serviced separately. It is not necessary to remove the entire transmission assembly to perform overdrive unit repairs.

CAUTION: The transmission and torque converter must be removed as an assembly to avoid component damage. The converter drive plate, pump bushing, or oil seal can be damaged if the converter is left attached to the driveplate during removal.

REMOVAL
Disconnect battery negative cable.
Hoist and support vehicle.
Remove skid plate, if equipped.
Remove skid plate support crossmember, if equipped.
Disconnect and lower or remove necessary exhaust components.
Remove starter motor.
Support engine with suitable support stand and wood block.
Remove bolts attaching engine-to-transmission brackets to transmission.
Remove bolt and nut attaching each engine-to-transmission bracket to the motor mounts.
Remove bolts holding the engine-to-transmission brackets to the front axle, if equipped.
Loosen bolts attaching engine-to-transmission brackets to each side of the engine block.
Raise engine slightly.
Remove torque converter access cover.
Tighten bolts attaching engine-to-transmission brackets to each side of the engine block.
Lower engine.
Disconnect fluid cooler lines at transmission.
If transmission is being removed for overhaul, remove transmission oil pan, drain fluid and reinstall pan.
Remove fill tube bracket bolts and pull tube out of transmission. Retain fill tube seal. On 4 x 4 models, it will also be necessary to remove bolt attaching transfer case vent tube to converter housing Fill Tube Attachment
Rotate crankshaft in clockwise direction until converter bolts are accessible. Then remove bolts one at a time. Rotate crankshaft with socket wrench on dampener bolt.
Mark propeller shaft and axle companion flanges for assembly alignment. Then disconnect and remove propeller shaft.
Disconnect wires from park/neutral position switch and transmission solenoid.
Disconnect throttle valve cable from transmission bracket and throttle valve lever.
On 4 x 4 models, disconnect shift rod from transfer case shift lever. Or remove shift lever from transfer case and tie rod and lever to chassis component with wire.
Raise transmission slightly with service jack to relieve load on crossmember and supports.
Remove bolts securing rear support and cushion to transmission and crossmember. Raise transmission slightly, slide exhaust hanger arm from bracket Rear Support Cushion and remove rear support.
Remove bolts attaching crossmember to frame and remove crossmember.
On 4 x 4 models, disconnect vent hose from transfer case. Then remove transfer case with transmission jack or aid of helper.
Remove all converter housing bolts.
Carefully work transmission and torque converter assembly rearward off engine block dowels.
Lower transmission and remove assembly from under the vehicle."
 
#23 ·
YOU ARE MY HERO!! I know I have the know how to do this, its jsut alot easier with a list that tells you every step THANK YOU SO MUCH!!
Just set up all my tools, trucks in, batterys disconnected and ive got 3 drop lights set up. Here goes nothing! It has to be out between now and noon tomorrow!
Wish I had air tools my dads compressor is here in thsi garage but never wired up 220 because he never expected to stay here this long.
As far as letting a dealer rape me thats 100% out of the question. Im doing a straight up trade with the trans so its gotta sit for a week without the trans, AND im a broke college student(thank you wyotech......)
Alright im off!! Im gonna keep a count of the time i spend. Its 223 and im gonna start at 230 sharp. Got some beers, soda, and nothing but time!
 
#26 ·
im about to give up for the night..
Got one starter bolt out, 3 of the 4 bolts off the front axle bracket. I think the guy who rebuilt the trans never put those engine to transmission supports back in all there is are these little plates that hook over the bell, got one bolt outta one of them. Got the front driveshaft out.
Do I have to remove my damn oil filter to take out bellhosuing bolts?? I dont have money to do a oil change right now..... I need more tips guys this thing is kicking my ass...
 
#27 ·
shouldnt need to remove the oil filter i never have in the past.you should be able to zip most of the bellhousing bolts out from underneath... well rachet. lol umm the top to its hard to say been a while, from what others have said its easier from top and that could be true. give it a looksy.

good job so far, i woulda had it towed to a garage by now and payed them =P
 
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