Hard wire AUX input, factory headunit, no CD changer input [Archive] - Dakota Durango Forum

: Hard wire AUX input, factory headunit, no CD changer input


kavisiegel
08-01-2009, 07:22 AM
So I set out this morning looking for an adapter for an AUX in. My head unit doesn't have a CD changer input, so its not as easy as you'd expect.

I spent my afternoon looking at new headunits, and I didn't really feel like switching. I like the factory stuff

So I decided to make my own AUX input. The plan was to hardwire onto the CD players output, with a 3 pole switch, allowing me to switch from CD to AUX.

Turns out that with this mod, you can flip the switch while using any audio source (CD, Tape, radio) and play your input. Radio just makes the most sense.

So with the flip of a switch... your iPod is playing. Or whatever you want to plug in. I didn't really write instructions, but I'll have to write some from memory tomorrow... but if anybody wants theirs modified too, I can write a real guide based on theirs. I'll probably even borrow a real camera - my phone aint as good as I hoped.

I included a few pictures that will give the brave anxious individual enough to go by, if they want to try it themselves.

A half-assed guide is a few posts down - http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/showthread.php?t=92164#post2221910

fzmax
08-01-2009, 01:17 PM
There are a few companies that make them for the factory radios, but they only work for radios with the CD controls. I have a PAC Audio Aux box in my truck, but the radio I want to use doesn't have the CD changer controls so I'd love to know how you did that. Can you provide any details?

x1le
08-01-2009, 01:22 PM
A simple fm modulator would have done the trick for you.

kavisiegel
08-01-2009, 05:28 PM
I'm looking for quality. I got a top of the line ccrane FM transmitter, and its still not enough for me.

As for details, well, I'd provide details for what I've already done - but I don't think anybody but me would approve of the results. No volume control, no fade, no equalizer.
I'll probably have it fully modified by tonight. Since it's a modular design, I could go in off of any of the 3 inputs. Turns out the radio input is the easiest to remove and modify... so it's probably the best choice. I'll definitely post pics and a guide.

x1le
08-01-2009, 05:41 PM
I'm looking for quality. I got a top of the line ccrane FM transmitter, and its still not enough for me.

There is a difference between an fm modulator and an fm transmitter.

kavisiegel
08-01-2009, 06:39 PM
Yep, but a modulator is only slightly better than a transmitter. it still goes through format changes and, no matter what, radio only has a certain bandwidth.

Hard wired, straight up, is the best way.

RBeau1954
08-02-2009, 08:11 AM
There is a guy in St Louis that rebuild those infinity units, I talked to him about doing that to my unit. If the plug ins on the back are the round type, he can do it but if they are the 2 strip type plug ins then it can't be done. Of course, anything can be done for a price. If it all works out for you, let us know what you did, I would love to have aux unit but like you, I like the infinity stereo.

kavisiegel
08-03-2009, 04:34 AM
soooo, I got it working!

and I updated the original post with a few pictures. I'll try to actually write a small guide tomorrow. It's late now.

kavisiegel
08-03-2009, 04:42 AM
There is a guy in St Louis that rebuild those infinity units, I talked to him about doing that to my unit. If the plug ins on the back are the round type, he can do it but if they are the 2 strip type plug ins then it can't be done. Of course, anything can be done for a price. If it all works out for you, let us know what you did, I would love to have aux unit but like you, I like the infinity stereo.

Mine are 2 strip plugs. What he was going to do, I bet is hook up one of these: http://www.wyckoffchryslerparts.com/moipinkit.html

I actually almost bought one, then I realized that it won't work. That's when I went to work.

kavisiegel
08-10-2009, 09:50 PM
You know, I thought more people would be interested in this. haha.

99dakotasport
10-03-2009, 09:34 PM
Ok so what did you do to make this all work.

Mystake
10-04-2009, 12:02 AM
for a while I used to use a modulator that connected directly to the antenna. I found that a bit easier.

kavisiegel
10-04-2009, 07:16 AM
Ok so what did you do to make this all work.


Honestly, I'm doing the best I can from memory and from the pictures I already took. I'd love to write a guide if enough people are interested, and somebody wants me to do one for them.

Here's what I just drew up..
http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/489/radiomod.png

mike_ct
10-27-2009, 05:00 AM
bravo! congrats! that is so freakin' awesome what you did there; i've been trying for years to find this somewhere, i know someone somewhere must have done it - i did it on a gm radio in my last vehicle; the only thing was, i had to burn a blank audio cd and let it spin in the cd mode and my ipod would play hardwired to the cd output..i've taken my RAZ mopar radio apart twice and snooped around, and couldn't find what the heck i was looking for..i realize you have a different radio that i have, but i'm taking mine apart again, and with the help of your pictures, i hope i can get mine working..

also, i too can't stand the transmitter/modulator sound quality, hard wired is the only way..i really really hope i can get mine working..

i'm assuming the way you have this setup, your volume control functions as normal, right? i read in your earlier post the volume was not active..i would appreciate any more details you have on this project..thanks!

suprchgd99rango
10-27-2009, 05:12 AM
http://www.walmart.com/catalog/detail.gsp?image=http://i.walmartimages.com/i/p/00/03/39/91/99/0003399199037_500X500.jpg&product_id=10756155&iIndex=1&isVariant=false&corpCard=false&type=-9223372036854775808




why not get a line out converter like that?

mike_ct
10-27-2009, 05:19 AM
line out converter won't work for what i'm doing; completely stock system otherwise, no amp to hook it up to.

kavisiegel
10-27-2009, 06:57 AM
bravo! congrats! that is so freakin' awesome what you did there; i've been trying for years to find this somewhere, i know someone somewhere must have done it - i did it on a gm radio in my last vehicle; the only thing was, i had to burn a blank audio cd and let it spin in the cd mode and my ipod would play hardwired to the cd output..i've taken my RAZ mopar radio apart twice and snooped around, and couldn't find what the heck i was looking for..i realize you have a different radio that i have, but i'm taking mine apart again, and with the help of your pictures, i hope i can get mine working..

also, i too can't stand the transmitter/modulator sound quality, hard wired is the only way..i really really hope i can get mine working..

i'm assuming the way you have this setup, your volume control functions as normal, right? i read in your earlier post the volume was not active..i would appreciate any more details you have on this project..thanks!

Yep, full volume control, fade, balance, bass, treble. I tapped into the pre-amp originally, but after some more searching, I got the signal to the right spot.

If it helps, most mopar headunits are modular. They have a connector for each module, and I found that normally the audio signal pins are the ones on the far sides. If you need any more pictures or clarification of anything, I'd be glad to help you out.

And by the way, mine is a RAZ. I'm sure the Ram and Dakota RAZ units are pretty similar.

mike_ct
10-27-2009, 03:26 PM
thanks again; going to pull mine apart and now that i know yours is a RAZ, i'm sure mine will be the exact same..will post an update once i get r done..

mike_ct
10-27-2009, 08:23 PM
:( well, my radio is completly different inside; not having good luck..looked up the datasheet for the main philips i2c chip, and been trying various things; the tape inputs, the cd analog inputs, can't get things working..

kavisiegel
10-27-2009, 09:30 PM
:( well, my radio is completly different inside; not having good luck..looked up the datasheet for the main philips i2c chip, and been trying various things; the tape inputs, the cd analog inputs, can't get things working..

Take some pics of the boards and PM them to me

johnquaddakota
10-29-2009, 03:23 AM
is this a infinity unit I would really like to do this! would like my audio to look as stock as possible if people look in and see stock they dont try to brake in to steal stuff. might pull mine apart tomorrow and see what I can figure out.

70Cuda383
10-29-2009, 08:50 AM
definitly post a detailed write up! I hate flipping CDs around every 30 minutes when on a long road trip, and I routinely drive from Columbus to Pittsburgh (3.5 hour drive) and there's a huge dead spot in eastern Ohio where I can't even get an AM station, the signals are all too weak to pick up when the radio is in "scan"

my car came from the factory with an aux input already hard wired into the car, and I love it...I just wish the Dakota had one too!

kavisiegel
10-30-2009, 08:19 PM
is this a infinity unit I would really like to do this! would like my audio to look as stock as possible if people look in and see stock they dont try to brake in to steal stuff. might pull mine apart tomorrow and see what I can figure out.

It is indeed an Infinity unit


definitly post a detailed write up! I hate flipping CDs around every 30 minutes when on a long road trip, and I routinely drive from Columbus to Pittsburgh (3.5 hour drive) and there's a huge dead spot in eastern Ohio where I can't even get an AM station, the signals are all too weak to pick up when the radio is in "scan"

my car came from the factory with an aux input already hard wired into the car, and I love it...I just wish the Dakota had one too!

I'm still waiting for a donor, so I can write a guide. heh.


If anybody's interested, just pay for shipping plus $8 for the cost of the switch and 3.5mm connector, and I'll do it for you, and you get the honor of having your unit in the guide!

jamesvtr
11-11-2009, 11:15 PM
i would like to see a write up as well i cant donate mine because i need it for commuting or id end up singing:wave:

shadow25
11-12-2009, 03:38 AM
Can you make it so that the tape input turns on the iPod, while I can hit CD or Radio and I don't have to switch off the iPod

kavisiegel
11-12-2009, 04:01 AM
Can you make it so that the tape input turns on the iPod, while I can hit CD or Radio and I don't have to switch off the iPod

If you want to drill a hole in your dash, you could probably install a push button switch?

I'd have to reverse engineer the tape module its self in order to do that, which is far more complex than the circuitry that connects the modules. It is possible, though.

jamesvtr
11-12-2009, 05:41 AM
well hope fully some one will donate there stereo so a write up can be done

shadow25
11-12-2009, 09:56 PM
If you want to drill a hole in your dash, you could probably install a push button switch?

I'd have to reverse engineer the tape module its self in order to do that, which is far more complex than the circuitry that connects the modules. It is possible, though.

Oh, ok. Its a PITA so, fuck it.

I'm gonna be pulling my 2000 Infinity Deck soon as I'm putting in another stereo. I can send that with the cash to have it fitted with AUX stuff in case I ever wanna put the stock stereo back in. Should be around the 20th.. Any idea on what shipping would cost to and from Seattle, WA.

kavisiegel
11-13-2009, 02:33 AM
Oh, ok. Its a PITA so, fuck it.

I'm gonna be pulling my 2000 Infinity Deck soon as I'm putting in another stereo. I can send that with the cash to have it fitted with AUX stuff in case I ever wanna put the stock stereo back in. Should be around the 20th.. Any idea on what shipping would cost to and from Seattle, WA.

I think you'd be a hero to everyone. haha :mullet:

You could probably fit it in a USPS flat rate box, I don't know how much the flat rate would be, but you'd probably want to throw however much it is in the box with it. It would probably take 3-4 days to get here, so I'll be able to do it just in time for thanksgiving break. That would work out great

shadow25
11-13-2009, 08:08 PM
Duh! i forgot about the flat rate boxes. Its like $7 each way, so like $25 total is a good deal for a retrofit.

I'll lookup the price, and ship it out on the 20th, so expect a PM a couple days before

Any idea if this works for a 2004 Durango Infinity Headunit?

kavisiegel
11-13-2009, 11:54 PM
Duh! i forgot about the flat rate boxes. Its like $7 each way, so like $25 total is a good deal for a retrofit.

I'll lookup the price, and ship it out on the 20th, so expect a PM a couple days before

Any idea if this works for a 2004 Durango Infinity Headunit?

alright, sounds good!

a 2004 durango...... nah they changed up the head units from 2001+, the new ones are rounded, and have a CD changer input in the back. Mopar sells an iPod adapter to plug into the CD changer input, and that's got plenty more features than just line in.

Montana Dodge
03-15-2010, 06:23 AM
Well that was a waste of my time to read with no actual write up.

Hope to see one soon, but doesn't look promising.

2k1AmberR/T
03-15-2010, 06:43 AM
Why do you have 3 wires shown going to the iPod?

kavisiegel
03-15-2010, 06:59 AM
Well that was a waste of my time to read with no actual write up.

Hope to see one soon, but doesn't look promising.

Heh, I wish I had another headunit so I could write the guide. The thing with that other guy fell through, and I haven't been chasing down somebody else with a donor.

Why do you have 3 wires shown going to the iPod?

Right, Left, Ground

2k1AmberR/T
03-15-2010, 07:14 AM
My iPod just has a headphone jack. Damn!

2k1AmberR/T
03-15-2010, 07:16 AM
If I could do this to my 01+ infinity radio to save 100 dollars I probably most likely definitely might do it instead. I don't have enough confidence in myself to learn/understand what you did based on your provided pictures and then transfer that knowledge to the different style radio that I have and actually expect it to work when I'm finished.

Montana Dodge
03-15-2010, 07:32 AM
Need to just take the pics you have and do a write up for us folks that are not up on all the electronics like you. We are dumb, throw us a bone! It looks easy enough to do if you have a little bit of electrical experience, but I have no idea what the little diagram means in the middle of your pic.

Montana Dodge
03-15-2010, 07:33 AM
My iPod just has a headphone jack. Damn!

From what I understand, the left, right, ground is all a headphone jack is.

2k1AmberR/T
03-15-2010, 08:17 AM
It was halfway a joke. I don't think any ipods have anything other than the plug at the bottom and a headphone jack.

Montana Dodge
03-15-2010, 05:35 PM
It was halfway a joke. I don't think any ipods have anything other than the plug at the bottom and a headphone jack.

:sorry: I'm just trying to figure this shit out. :huh:

MrMcQ
03-16-2010, 05:45 AM
thread is becoming popular, lol.

I think i would still prefer the 100 buck box that will charge my ipod.

I used to have a creative Zen mp3 player and would only have the aux input on a radio, pissed me off every-time it died. I would be be like 1/2 way to work with no way to charge until i got home. Then there was the times I would forget to turn it off at work and the player would be dead after work. Ipod interface with aftermarket stereos was nice because it kept my Ipod charged and would shut it off when the car was shut off. I don't know how the 100 buck adapter is but am hoping it's the same.


Sorry for the rant but that's my $.02 about the aux input idea, your decision though.

kavisiegel
08-09-2010, 03:37 AM
thread is becoming popular, lol.

I think i would still prefer the 100 buck box that will charge my ipod.

I used to have a creative Zen mp3 player and would only have the aux input on a radio, pissed me off every-time it died. I would be be like 1/2 way to work with no way to charge until i got home. Then there was the times I would forget to turn it off at work and the player would be dead after work. Ipod interface with aftermarket stereos was nice because it kept my Ipod charged and would shut it off when the car was shut off. I don't know how the 100 buck adapter is but am hoping it's the same.


Sorry for the rant but that's my $.02 about the aux input idea, your decision though.

problem is that box only fits 01-04 models anyways. Nothing says you can't get an ipod charger for $5 and plug it into the cigarette lighter, and plug the headphone jack into the radio, though.


Anyways.... any donors? I got lots of free time these days, I'd love to do a proper writeup.

Charger74
08-25-2010, 04:12 PM
So is there a way to do this if your Infinity has the cd changer option???

kavisiegel
08-25-2010, 04:59 PM
So is there a way to do this if your Infinity has the cd changer option???

Yes they sell plug and play modules for the iPod for 01+ model years. Look it up on google.

Charger74
08-26-2010, 05:12 PM
Yes they sell plug and play modules for the iPod for 01+ model years. Look it up on google.


Thanks, don't use an ipod, but did look up for the other players. Might try one.

kavisiegel
12-26-2010, 12:54 AM
Still looking for a donor! This type of mod would go good in the new buildup forum.. and I got plenty of time to write a nice guide these days.

fiveolddogs
05-28-2011, 10:21 PM
I have a similar HU in my Dodge Caravan. I believe mine is a RAZ model which has CD, cassette and has the ability to control a CD changer, though I don't have the CD changer.

Here is a picture of my HU:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/139699/Chrysler-Dodge%20radio.jpg

It's my understanding it is possible to utilize the 10-pin CD changer interface on the HU to obtain an AUX input, but I haven't found a proper description of how this is done. On youtube there is a nice video (http://youtu.be/294TFX3b5-A)showing how to add an AUX input if you have this HU along with the CD changer. According to comments left there, this will not work without the CD changer. Additional hacking is required to trick the HU into believing a CD changer is present.

That's as far as my research gets me. Does anyone here have any further information on this?

Thanks.

kavisiegel
06-20-2011, 12:47 AM
I have a similar HU in my Dodge Caravan. I believe mine is a RAZ model which has CD, cassette and has the ability to control a CD changer, though I don't have the CD changer.

Here is a picture of my HU:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/139699/Chrysler-Dodge%20radio.jpg

It's my understanding it is possible to utilize the 10-pin CD changer interface on the HU to obtain an AUX input, but I haven't found a proper description of how this is done. On youtube there is a nice video (http://youtu.be/294TFX3b5-A)showing how to add an AUX input if you have this HU along with the CD changer. According to comments left there, this will not work without the CD changer. Additional hacking is required to trick the HU into believing a CD changer is present.

That's as far as my research gets me. Does anyone here have any further information on this?

Thanks.

If you don't have the CD changer input, and you want direct input.. you have to cut and solder like I did... no other way about it!

jmaack727
06-20-2011, 01:32 AM
How is this one done do you know? I dont want to be flipping switches but the jackass wont let anyone know how to do it?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PJHh1tLnFH0

kavisiegel
06-20-2011, 05:42 AM
How is this one done do you know? I dont want to be flipping switches but the jackass wont let anyone know how to do it?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PJHh1tLnFH0

The jack its self acts as the switch.. wouldn't be surprised if that guy got what he needed to know from this thread, he basically did the same exact thing just a few months later, same model radio and all. I recognize the radio station change muting behavior haha.. pretty cool, I like his switching idea for sure. I prefer to leave my ipod pluged in all the time though, and I also prefer to not have it in plain view... so hidden jacks FTW

jmaack727
06-20-2011, 06:00 AM
Yeah I want a jack in the center console. Id just put a female plug on back of the radio and then just get a patch cord to run to my console or glove box.

Can you make an illustration using the jack as the switch? I think I got it.

kavisiegel
06-20-2011, 06:22 AM
Get this from radio shack: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103451
And here's the wiring diagram
http://www.miata.net/garage/external_audio_interface_files/image006.jpg

The switch/jack is just a pass-through for the signal when nothing is plugged in, but when you plug something in, it disconnects that signal and introduces whatever is coming through that jack. (Be careful with your volume, static when plugging this in can blow your speakers)

You still need to cut the left and right traces on the main PCB of the headunit.

You want pins 3 and 4 to connect to the tape player's output (this becomes the switch "input") which is the left of the PCB and guide illustration

You want pins 5 and 2 to connect to the face plate player connector, which is towards the front of the headunit (to the top-right of the "guide" photo)

You want pin 1 to go to the ground, use the pin between the right/left signals on the face plate connector for that.

Take plenty of photos!

Durango Bill
11-25-2011, 09:44 PM
So I set out this morning looking for an adapter for an AUX in. My head unit doesn't have a CD changer input, so its not as easy as you'd expect.

I spent my afternoon looking at new headunits, and I didn't really feel like switching. I like the factory stuff

So I decided to make my own AUX input. The plan was to hardwire onto the CD players output, with a 3 pole switch, allowing me to switch from CD to AUX.

Turns out that with this mod, you can flip the switch while using any audio source (CD, Tape, radio) and play your input. Radio just makes the most sense.

So with the flip of a switch... your iPod is playing. Or whatever you want to plug in. I didn't really write instructions, but I'll have to write some from memory tomorrow... but if anybody wants theirs modified too, I can write a real guide based on theirs. I'll probably even borrow a real camera - my phone aint as good as I hoped.

I included a few pictures that will give the brave anxious individual enough to go by, if they want to try it themselves.

A half-assed guide is a few posts down - http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/showthread.php?t=92164#post2221910


Well as did the OP, i was mission this morning to add an AUX port o my 01 Durango w/RAZ some what different than 2000 below RAZ.

So using his instructions I set off to do it , below is the parts and tools needed

1) 1/8 or 3.5mm phone jack from radio shack part number 274-246 closed circuit $2.46 ( as stated in his lastest post)

Wire ( 3 diff colors, I used green/blk/Red) length will be determined on where you are going to mount the jack , my length was approx. 3ft for each

Solder
Soldering Iron
Magnet ( for those pesky screws you drop)
Needle nose pliers
Phillips screw driver
Wire stripper
Multi meter

Now you will additional tool to remove dash cover and radio from truck but not going into that , tools I'm listing is too perform the actual mod to radio

So onto the procedure :

Pretty much used the OP's initial guidelines and pics, now if you look at one the first pics he post's it show's the PCB board with part number. 923k841-1
The 01 part number is 923k843-1

So the 01 has a somewhat different board but the soldering points are the same. so follow those instructions he posted till you need too cut the trace L&R channels on the PCB board. ( pics below ) Now don't laugh at my soldering skills or my method of cutting the trace wires , this was trial and error I cleaned everything up after I got it right.

Regarding cutting the trace wires I just simply took razor blade and repeatedly cut both of them till I broke connection ( used OHM meter to verify )


In the pics the GREEN wire is left and RED wire is the right and BLK wire is Ground

In the 3rd pic the trace wires are on the bottom side of the board , where as OP's had them on the top side of his board , that is the difference I found between the 2 units ( left side of pic looks like scratches that's where I cut them with razor blade) just for clarification they are the 2 inner trace wires the outter is the ground DO NOT CUT that one..lol

Once you have everything soldered up on the board using the diagram of the OP's latest post make your connections to the jack and test it out

Everything should work Volume/EQ/TAPE/CD ..just pug in your media device and listen to MP3's/Sirrius ec..



http://i852.photobucket.com/albums/ab90/wllmjameson/01%20Dodge%20Durango%20RAZ%20Radio/2011-11-25_08-44-30_517.jpg

http://i852.photobucket.com/albums/ab90/wllmjameson/01%20Dodge%20Durango%20RAZ%20Radio/2011-11-25_11-43-58_802.jpg


http://i852.photobucket.com/albums/ab90/wllmjameson/01%20Dodge%20Durango%20RAZ%20Radio/2011-11-25_11-43-26_857.jpg


http://i852.photobucket.com/albums/ab90/wllmjameson/01%20Dodge%20Durango%20RAZ%20Radio/2011-11-25_15-33-37_782.jpg


http://www.miata.net/garage/external_audio_interface_files/image006.jpg

TazRango
11-26-2011, 12:31 AM
http://i852.photobucket.com/albums/ab90/wllmjameson/01%20Dodge%20Durango%20RAZ%20Radio/2011-11-25_11-43-58_802.jpg


http://i852.photobucket.com/albums/ab90/wllmjameson/01%20Dodge%20Durango%20RAZ%20Radio/2011-11-25_11-43-26_857.jpg


No offense, but you should work on your soldering skills and get a hotter iron. The iron needs to be hot enough that it can heat up the joint to the solder melting point BEFORE the heat can conduct down the wire and melt the insulation. The longer it takes to heat the joint, the more heat is conducted down the wire. Basically it should take no more than 2-3 seconds of heat on the joint to melt the solder.

Pre-tinning the wire tips before you try to solder them to the pads helps the joint melt faster. Also, if the wire is particularly thin or the insulation seems to be heat sensitive, use a pair of forceps or reverse-spring tweezers (you squeeze them to open) to grab the wire just in front of the insulation as you heat the joint. They will act as a heat sink and divert the heat away from the insulation.

The red wire in the first pic is going to short out on the solder pad below it because the insulation melted (and the black wire looks pretty close to the pad under it as well), so I hope you put some heat shrink on them.

Newbie
11-26-2011, 01:20 AM
You know, I thought more people would be interested in this. haha.

I am definitely interested in this. I am no wire guy though so I would love the detailed parts list, pics, estimated cost and detailed walkthrough. I too do not want to change the factory stereo and would love this option. I have satelite radio receiver that doesn't work the best with the FM Transmitter...

Durango Bill
11-26-2011, 10:30 AM
No offense, but you should work on your soldering skills and get a hotter iron. The iron needs to be hot enough that it can heat up the joint to the solder melting point BEFORE the heat can conduct down the wire and melt the insulation. The longer it takes to heat the joint, the more heat is conducted down the wire. Basically it should take no more than 2-3 seconds of heat on the joint to melt the solder.

Pre-tinning the wire tips before you try to solder them to the pads helps the joint melt faster. Also, if the wire is particularly thin or the insulation seems to be heat sensitive, use a pair of forceps or reverse-spring tweezers (you squeeze them to open) to grab the wire just in front of the insulation as you heat the joint. They will act as a heat sink and divert the heat away from the insulation.

The red wire in the first pic is going to short out on the solder pad below it because the insulation melted (and the black wire looks pretty close to the pad under it as well), so I hope you put some heat shrink on them.



So after reading all this , All you got out of this entire thread was my soldering skill's ? :clap2: ..just busting your balls, I did however mention in my thread not too make fun of my soldering skills as I mentioned it was a trial and error and was cleaned up before re-install

Bill

TazRango
11-26-2011, 08:28 PM
Haha I didn't even see that. I wasn't really reading, because I don't have a factory head unit. It popped up in my subbed threads list and I just skimmed the post and went right to the pics. :)

JimLusk
11-27-2011, 05:46 AM
Just to pop in here on this. I plan on doing this with the same unit in my 2000 Durango, but I will be using the cassette player output. Every cassette has a fairly obvious select switch and output wires. I haven't looked close enough to decide where I will switch it.

I made up an input for the Infinity head unit in my son's '89 LeBaron GTC convertible, but it had the CD slave input. It's very simple. One of the pins needs to be grounded for the select and the input is a pair of (+) wires and a shared ground (-). The switch I used in the '89 utilized a flip-flop and a momentary switch. I could have used a simple on/off switch, but I wanted something different. Also used an LED to show that it was selected. This was pretty simple, but I've made my living in electronics for over thirty years.

kavisiegel
02-28-2012, 11:34 PM
Just to pop in here on this. I plan on doing this with the same unit in my 2000 Durango, but I will be using the cassette player output. Every cassette has a fairly obvious select switch and output wires. I haven't looked close enough to decide where I will switch it.

I made up an input for the Infinity head unit in my son's '89 LeBaron GTC convertible, but it had the CD slave input. It's very simple. One of the pins needs to be grounded for the select and the input is a pair of (+) wires and a shared ground (-). The switch I used in the '89 utilized a flip-flop and a momentary switch. I could have used a simple on/off switch, but I wanted something different. Also used an LED to show that it was selected. This was pretty simple, but I've made my living in electronics for over thirty years.


Well, how did it go?

In the 2000 era dodge headunits, all the traces go to the same place, so you don't have to worry about what input you use. Even if you tap into the cassette wires, you can play audio when in radio mode as long as the original traces are interrupted!

JimLusk
02-29-2012, 02:21 AM
It didn't go as planned. It's not the audio that's the issue. It's making the radio think there's a tape installed so it will switch to that input. The tape player has a switch like all others, but there's also a rotary switch that appears to need to be spinning. There's also a microprocessor that actually provides the output to let the radio know. I haven't been able to find a schematic or had the time to dig deeper into it. It's kind of on the back burner now.

TheCase
04-16-2013, 06:37 AM
Hey - thanks for this write up! After many searches for the model number (I'll post to help Google along next time: P04704383AH). I found nothing about this subject until I cracked the case open and searched for the number printed on the PCB. And here I am!

I plan on starting on this some time this week, I'll do my best to document and take decent pictures. I plan to actually have two ins: one for an iPod connection (with arduino/LCD for current track display with play/pause/next controls) and another for a direct connection to a A2DP bluetooth module (instead of the FM modulation it expects me to use). Having a heck of a time finding a triple throw, dual pole switch that does on/on/on, however. Might have to settle for a couple DPDTs.

Some bad news to start: while trying to discover how I might remove the bottom/tape-deck part of the unit, the thing just snapped open while I was applying some prying force. Turns out I cracked the PCB and broke about a dozen traces on the power supply PCB (down near where the heat sink attaches to some rectifiers). After some super glue to repair the break, hours of soldering and continuity checks, I think I got it back in working order. It powers up and makes music. I suppose time will tell.

RalphP
04-17-2013, 06:20 AM
TheCase - try a rotary switch instead of a toggle. And don't sweat if you end up with a 4P3T (4 pole 3 position) switch ... you can ignore the extra poles!

RwP

TheCase
04-17-2013, 11:50 PM
So, while the previous pictures posted here were very helpful, they aren't entirely clear. I decided to take some of my own and annotate them as best as possible. I've only done the wiring portion so far. I decided to label the ends of the wires before I soldered them in, to reduce confusion later.

Another tip, use hot glue near the soldered ends of the wire to provide strain relief (not pictured).

Also included a clear schematic of how one would wire a DPDT switch for switching between Radio and AuxIn modes.


http://i1213.photobucket.com/albums/cc467/akula169/IMG_4978.jpg (http://s1213.photobucket.com/user/akula169/media/IMG_4978.jpg.html)

http://i1213.photobucket.com/albums/cc467/akula169/IMG_4982.jpg (http://s1213.photobucket.com/user/akula169/media/IMG_4982.jpg.html)

http://i1213.photobucket.com/albums/cc467/akula169/IMG_4980.jpg (http://s1213.photobucket.com/user/akula169/media/IMG_4980.jpg.html)

http://i1213.photobucket.com/albums/cc467/akula169/IMG_4983.jpg (http://s1213.photobucket.com/user/akula169/media/IMG_4983.jpg.html)

http://i1213.photobucket.com/albums/cc467/akula169/IMG_4990.jpg (http://s1213.photobucket.com/user/akula169/media/IMG_4990.jpg.html)

http://i1213.photobucket.com/albums/cc467/akula169/schematic.png (http://s1213.photobucket.com/user/akula169/media/schematic.png.html)

kavisiegel
04-23-2013, 06:04 PM
That is awesome! If only I could add the link to your post from the original post... It's been too long to edit.

Good job my friend, I'm glad this came in handy to someone after these years!

TheCase
04-23-2013, 06:15 PM
TheCase - try a rotary switch instead of a toggle. And don't sweat if you end up with a 4P3T (4 pole 3 position) switch ... you can ignore the extra poles!

RwP

Yup, I did just that. Thanks for the recommend. Turns out I'll be using the extra poles anyhow (so I can switch the 5v line for the iPod on/off).

Good thing have a 3D printer, it allowed me to pop out the now obsolete cigarette lighter and replace it with the rotary switch without having to hack up the switch panel:

http://i1213.photobucket.com/albums/cc467/akula169/IMG_0048.jpg (http://s1213.photobucket.com/user/akula169/media/IMG_0048.jpg.html)

http://i1213.photobucket.com/albums/cc467/akula169/IMG_0049.jpg (http://s1213.photobucket.com/user/akula169/media/IMG_0049.jpg.html)

Oopbuddha
05-20-2013, 05:57 AM
This is a great thread. I pulled my stereo out of my 2000 Dodge Dakota, completely disassembled it. But my stereo is different than yours. There are no labels on the PCB board. Any idea how I can find them? I have googled everything I can find on the board, but no luck.

gth31
06-02-2013, 04:22 PM
I have the same problem Oopbuddha, Im doing something similar but my 2003 Dakota has a different PCB layout and the number is completely different... Im trying to test the cd player outputs with a multimeter to find the the audio signals, but no luck so far. If anyone who has done this can share how they found them, that would be a huge help.

The part number on my CD player is P05064354AJ FYI

EDIT: Im trying to document my build and will post in here once I can get it all done. Thanks for any help guys

ksb24
10-03-2013, 03:39 PM
I have the RBK radio with buttons for disc change but no disc changer. Would this same method work on my radio?
Thanks

gth31
10-03-2013, 03:51 PM
I have the RBK radio with buttons for disc change but no disc changer. Would this same method work on my radio?
Thanks
Unfortunately not... I broke down and bought the chry04 adapter after 2 weeks of testing without success...

unzip2000
05-06-2015, 02:25 PM
Hi Guys, i know this is a really old post. Im planning on doing this mod in a few days on my 2001 durango. I have a quick question I was wondering if you do this mod, does the signals from the ipod/mp3 goes directly to the amp past the volume control? so u have to use the volume control of the ipod/mp3 player itself? or does it actually go though the volume control of the radio?

also another question for TheCase, how does the 5 wires get connected to the panel mount?
Radio R to pin 4
Radio L to pin 3
Aux R to pin 5
Aux L to pin 2
Ground to Pin 1

Is this correct?

kavisiegel
05-06-2015, 03:03 PM
The signal does indeed go through the volume control. It even goes through the equalizer and fader as well.

unzip2000
05-06-2015, 03:06 PM
perfect. Thanks kavisiegel. I will be installing my aux port this eve. lol cant wait..

dw2296
07-27-2015, 01:30 AM
Hi, I also did this mod but have a couple problems.

1: For the most part, the Aux input works well. However, when playing music over the aux, the sound is off. In some songs you can barely notice it, while in others it's really obvious. It's always the voice; musical instruments sound great, but voices, especially in certain songs and depending on the part of the song, always sound distorted/metallic and quiet, sometimes barely audible.

2: The second issue is that, with an aux wire in the port but nothing playing over it, the audio from the radio still comes in a little bit. It is so quiet that I didn't notice at first. However, I can turn the volume up a lot and it'll sound almost just like the radio is playing, except the quality is lower and there is some background noise from the volume being turned up so much.

I've cleaned all of my contacts and checked all of my connections with a multimeter. No solder bridges or unwanted connections. The tuner signal is indeed making contact with the amp input when nothing is in the aux port, and it is indeed completely cut off when there is an aux cord in. I just don't understand how the radio signal could still be getting through when it shouldn't even be connected at all. I plan to try another aux cord to verify that the current one is not defective, but I doubt that it is since the same cord works fine in other cars here. Has anyone else had these problems? Thanks a lot for any help.


Edit: I solved problem #1 (http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=1) , it seems as though the ground prong had broken off from inside the headphone jack and it was not grounded properly.

khan.cross
10-12-2015, 02:32 PM
Have the same stereo in my 2000 Durango and have a MP3 Player attached to it through cassette-adapter. But it has sound quality losts.

I just need the info, how to modify the tape to add a 3,5mm AUX line in hope to get better sound quality.

Hope you guys can help me.

khan.cross
10-12-2015, 07:41 PM
So, while the previous pictures posted here were very helpful, they aren't entirely clear. I decided to take some of my own and annotate them as best as possible. I've only done the wiring portion so far. I decided to label the ends of the wires before I soldered them in, to reduce confusion later.

Another tip, use hot glue near the soldered ends of the wire to provide strain relief (not pictured).

Also included a clear schematic of how one would wire a DPDT switch for switching between Radio and AuxIn modes.


http://i1213.photobucket.com/albums/cc467/akula169/IMG_4978.jpg (http://s1213.photobucket.com/user/akula169/media/IMG_4978.jpg.html)

http://i1213.photobucket.com/albums/cc467/akula169/IMG_4982.jpg (http://s1213.photobucket.com/user/akula169/media/IMG_4982.jpg.html)

http://i1213.photobucket.com/albums/cc467/akula169/IMG_4980.jpg (http://s1213.photobucket.com/user/akula169/media/IMG_4980.jpg.html)

http://i1213.photobucket.com/albums/cc467/akula169/IMG_4983.jpg (http://s1213.photobucket.com/user/akula169/media/IMG_4983.jpg.html)

http://i1213.photobucket.com/albums/cc467/akula169/IMG_4990.jpg (http://s1213.photobucket.com/user/akula169/media/IMG_4990.jpg.html)

http://i1213.photobucket.com/albums/cc467/akula169/schematic.png (http://s1213.photobucket.com/user/akula169/media/schematic.png.html)

Which one of your pictures is for adding a AUX line in port and how dows it work? Which mode at the stereo should be activated to listen from an attache MP3 Player?
Does the modification negatively effect the stereo in CD, radio and tape mode?
A AUX port only have 3 wires and these have to be soldered as shown in the pics right?

dw2296
10-13-2015, 08:14 AM
Ok, I will probably just be re-iterating a lot of stuff already said, but here it goes:

First, I know what you mean by low quality through the cassette adapter. After having the AUX port now, I don't know why I ever put up with the adapter. And there should be no loss of quality for anything, and for the modification to work the radio just has to be in normal radio mode (so AM/FM). This is because the Tuner lines from the radio are being used for the new AUX port. Everything else will work as normal, and if there is nothing in the AUX port, then the AM/FM mode will also work normally. You can switch between normal/AUX mode, CD, and Tape normally with or without an audio jack plugged in the new port. To use it, just plug an audio jack in and the normal radio signal will be immediately cut off and the new one introduced instead. Just be careful about having the volume loud when you plug/unplug the jack because it'll make that popping sound normal for audio jacks.

You need a 3.5mm AUX port with 5 pins. I used this (most likely RadioShack will have something similar): http://www.ebay.com/itm/10PCS-1-8-3-5mm-Stereo-Socket-Jack-Headphones-With-nut-PCB-Panel-Mount-Chassis-/221834200953

Basically how it works is you redirect the audio signals from the radio through the AUX port and then they go back to the radio - as long as nothing is in the jack. One pin on the jack is for ground. The other four are grouped into pairs; one pair is for the Left audio signal, one is for Right. In each pair, there is one pin that will be the input for the Tuner signal from the radio, and one pin that will be the return signal back to the radio. The way the AUX port should work is if there is nothing in it, the signal will go straight through. If there is a normal 3.5mm audio jack plugged in, then the input Tuner signals for both L and R will be disconnected, and the new L and R signals from the audio jack will be sent down the return lines to the radio (which the Tuner signal was going down before).

The tuner lines are the cut ones on the circuit board in the picture below, with the white lettering "S8-PCB-MAIN." Those two circuits (three including ground) just connect the radio's tuner board (the circuit board on the side opposite of the side with the heat sink) with the radio's amp board (in the back). Cutting them like that will disrupt the lines, and if you were to do nothing else after that then your AM/FM wouldn't work because those signals wouldn't be getting to the amp board anymore. But what we do is solder wires (one for L, one for R) to the tuner inputs right by the tuner plug and run those to the correct input pins on the AUX port. Thus, the AM/FM signals are now making their way to the port. Then we solder and run wires (L and R) from the inputs by the amp plug to the correct return pins on the AUX ports. That way, the Tuner signals will just pass through the port (when nothing is plugged in it) and go back to the amp input and everything works normally.

That circuit board (the "S8-PCB-MAIN" one) is the only one you should need to solder anything to. The tuner plug inputs are on the top of it toward the front of the radio and at the side, while the amp one is on the bottom and toward the back of the radio (still toward the same side as the tuner one). Also, remember the ground wire for the port, otherwise sounds going through anything plugged into the AUX jack will sound weird. On mine the ground pin was toward the front of the port by the nut. Mine is also designed so that if the place where you put the hole and mounted the AUX port is metal (as in the body of the radio) then it will automatically ground it (remember, the stock ground pin/plug for the radio is just a piece of the radio's body that sticks out so you can slide the ground wire on). What I did was I just ran a wire between the AUX ground pin and the ground circuit in the circuit board just to be safe (so at the Ground connection by the amp input as shown in the pics on this thread), but if you wanted you could maybe get away with just connecting it to the body of the radio somehow.

Okay, more on the AUX jack: get a couple just to make sure. Also, I had problems with pins on the AUX ports coming off if soldered too much or handled a lot, so I went through a few. What you'll have to do is open up one if its all enclosed (as in pop the cover off to see the connections inside), or if it has a clear cover like mine does you can just look at it through that. Then figure out what pins do what. One is a simple ground, not connected to any other pins. And then the other 4 are in pairs, one pair for one audio signal and one for another. So one L and one R. Just take any 3.5 mm audio jack and plug it in and remove it (and repeat) to see how the connections inside work. There should be some springs inside and whatnot. When there is no jack plugged in, each pair should be connected (so the 2 prongs within that pair should make contact, and thus their respective pins on the port will be linked). When there is a jack plugged in, those prongs should disconnect. One of the prongs within that pair will now no longer be connected to anything. This will be the wire running between the Tuner plug on the circuit board and the AUX port (so with a jack plugged in, the normal radio signal for either L or R is now cut off). The other prong will now be touching a metal surface on the jack. This will be the wire between the amp plug on the circuit board and the AUX port. Thus, now only this new signal from the audio jack will be introduced to the amp. That signal will then go throughout the rest of the radio and sound system in the vehicle and play normally, with volume and all normal controls working. Remember, the Left and Right audio signals each get their own pair of prongs. The L and R locations to solder to on the circuit board are labeled in those pictures previously posted here. I don't know if the L and R really matters all that much (meaning maybe if you accidentally connected R to L and L to R, it may not matter), but I made sure mine were consistent just to be safe.

The picture in the link below will help you determine which of the pin pairs on the AUX port should be used for the Left signal, and which pair for the Right signal. Standard audio jacks have these 3 sections. The first one is ground, and the other two are R and L. Remember, plug the jack in the port to see, and whichever section of the jack (L or R) makes contact with a particular prong inside the port determines whether that pair of pins/prongs on the port is for either L or R.

http://cdn.head-fi.org/1/14/345x143px-1473cd98_TRSConnector.jpeg

That's all I can think of right now. I can take some pictures when I have access to it this weekend of my radio/port if you want so that you can see where I mounted mine (just to the left of the volume knob and below the "Volume" label). I just covered up the "push for time" lettering. It did require some sanding down the AUX port housing (to make it fit between the faceplate plastic and the front circuit board of the radio), cutting an opening in the side lip of the faceplate for the wires to come out, and some painting for that little panel on the faceplate, but I think it looks good. I also used a plug pigtail I got from the junkyard so that I could easily completely disconnect the faceplate from the rest of the radio if needed. You could also just use some quick disconnect splice connectors. There should be 5 total wires between the AUX port and the inside of the radio, including ground. Anyway, good luck! If you have any questions, feel free to ask.

khan.cross
10-17-2015, 07:11 AM
Thanks for the awsome how to!
Got some questions:

1. I decided to solder a ready cble with a 3,5mm connector to it and let the cable go oout of the tape. Then I have the 3,5mm connector ready for plug into tr music source device.

2. Why use the AM/FM port and not the Tape port as the Tape port isn't used at all. Logically it would bpossible to switch the input source by pressing the buttons on the radio and there is no need to unplug the 3,5mm line.

3. If the fotos in this post do show everything, then there is no need to make more. But uf your fotos will show more details, I would appreciate.


Yesterday evening I again heared early distortion while listening from the cassette adapter :(
Need to do the mod quickly

dw2296
10-18-2015, 04:41 AM
I see what you mean by using the tape circuits instead of the radio ones. However, I believe that I have read posts from people trying to do that, and apparently it came out to just be way more complicated than using the AM/FM lines. There was a lot of other stuff involved, such as tricking the head unit into thinking that there was a tape physically in the radio, and some other stuff.

If you wanted to make it so that it worked only when you pushed a button, then it could be done, but it would complicate things and you'd have to scrap what you've already done/plan to do with the AUX port. It would basically consist of routing the audio lines through something like a latching push-button (it might actually have to be a combination of two DPDT ones) , so that when the button was pushed in the AUX port's audio would be sent to the radio, and when it was not pushed in then the radio would work as normal. But then, you would also need to find a place to put the button around the radio or in the dash somewhere.

JimLusk
10-18-2015, 04:55 AM
I have tried to use the tape circuit. Unfortunately the tape unit uses a microprocessor and I was not able to figure out how to trick the radio into thinking there was a tape in the unit. On most tape players it is a simple reed switch that would just need to be shorted. I may revisit this some day, but it's not very high on my list of priorities...

khan.cross
10-18-2015, 08:48 AM
This post started to put the AUX port on the CD line isn't it?

How would it be on this port? Cos the CD mode is not what I really need, then I can switch between CD/AUX mode and FM by pressi g the buttons on the radio.

I think to take my tape appart today and will see if it is the same main board as yours, will post photos later

JimLusk
10-18-2015, 05:30 PM
The head unit in my Durango (2000) does not have a CD changer jack on the back. I have an MP3 unit that connects to the back of some older Infinity units CD changer input, but will not work on the 2000 radio.

RalphP
10-18-2015, 08:00 PM
While looking, be sure to check out the stereos section on AllPar.COM (one of the better archival sources of info on Mopar vehicles.)

RwP

khan.cross
10-18-2015, 08:15 PM
I am right now taking the radio appart. To get to the responsible areas, there is need to take the CD player module and tape out, only then the main PCB can be reached. The lines to be cut are at the upper side of the PCB, the lines to be soldered are at the down side of the PCB.

dw2296 pictures show:
The lines on the up side of the board need to be cutted and at the down side of the board are the 3 cables of the AUX port soldered.

But the threat starter soldered the AUX port cables on a different location. If both is possible, then there is no need to remove the tape module. Attached are also some pics of my current situation.

dw2296
10-19-2015, 07:50 AM
Yeah, you shouldn't need to remove the tape module, unless you want to just solder the wires while the board is in the radio still, which is fine too. But you'll end up soldering some wires to both sides of the board. On the area of the board where the lines need to be cut, look at the opposite/bottom side of the board and that's where there should be 3 wires soldered. Then towards the front of the board on the same side as the cut lines there will be 2 soldered. I might just be confusing you at this point though. Look at this other forum and see if it helps:

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/8034-aux-input-for-oem-stock-stereo-diy-not-infinity/

khan.cross
10-19-2015, 08:58 AM
I think I got it!
The onboard lines, which need to be cut, are the lines for the Tuner. Cut these both lines and find the tuner socket to solder 2 lines on it, which goes to the AUX port, the AUX port only bridges the lines in case of if nothing is connected to the AUX port right?

The other two soldered lines are for the AUX input. These are soldered on a different socket.

Am I right with all?

Unfortunately I cannot find a clear photo of the complete setup, which cable comes from where and goes to there...

khan.cross
10-20-2015, 01:25 PM
Ordered the 3,5mm audio socket. A few days later I am going to do that mod. But I do still not understand why AM/FM and Amp lines are used, instead of one line

dw2296
10-23-2015, 02:50 AM
Here's a diagram of the lines and the AUX port:

khan.cross
11-11-2015, 01:46 PM
I did it but cannot get the right AUX port running, left is ok. I am not sure what I did wrong, can anyone tell me?

Tuner is working properly!

And how's possible to undo all in case of not working AUX port? I mean what to do to undo the cut Tuner lines on board?

Also most of the internal small bulps are gone. Need to get new ones. Hard to find!

khan.cross
11-21-2015, 11:33 PM
I am stuck, could not get the right AUX channel to work. So I let it like it is now but fucked all the bulbs, need another solution to light the tape up.

For those, who does not have good skills:
Do not make this mod to have the AUX socket! It is very tricky

RalphP
11-22-2015, 05:09 PM
The easiest return would be to scrape the coating off the two cut lines, both sides, and if the cut is small enough trail some solder across the cut (if it's a bit longer, a bit of a lead from, say, a 1/8 or 1/4 watt resistor could be used. Or wire wrap wire. Or anything else small enough.)

As to the bulbs - 14V Grain-of-wheat should do the job. Say these at http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/lp-6/14v-t-1-3mm-lamp-w/10-insulated-wire-leads/1.html . Or possibly 12V LEDs (All Electronics has some with the dropping resistor built in for 12V operation). The LEDs, however, I've not tried, that's just something that I THINK may work properly.

RwP

khan.cross
11-22-2015, 05:25 PM
Tuner/CD/Tape is working properly, the AUX port is still attached but I hide it in the radio, so I do not use it.
A couple of days ago I ordered 12V-14V green bulps, pre-soldered with wire. Tested them an they work good in the tape, had to connect it to the illumination power source of the cable. LED's cannot dim!

I will post images bout the bulp mod later.

RalphP
11-22-2015, 05:51 PM
LEDs can dim, if the circuit is just a resistor. They won't if the assembly includes a constant current source.

Mine in my dash dim just fine.

RwP