Won’t go into park [Archive] - Dakota Durango Forum

: Won’t go into park


Ted 00 R/T
08-29-2005, 04:40 AM
Was driving around in the 2k RT Durango this afternoon. All going good. Stopped to go into the store and it won’t go into park. So what’s up? How hard is this to fix?

VPREATR
07-26-2007, 10:28 PM
My apologies for reviving this thread, however I've recently experienced the exact same problem with my 2003 Dodge Durango SLT (5.9L/4X4).

Basically a few days ago the vehicle simply wouldn't engage park; all other shifting options are available (i.e. R, N, D, 2, 1) - It feels as if park is locked out entirely.

I’ve checked the linkage, linkage plate; it appears the restriction is internal; does this transmission have a lock out; at first it would enter park and not report the status on the dash indicator; currently the vehicle only starts in neutral (key removal is possible by placing the shifter in the park position, although moderate resistance is noted)

Advice and suggestions are welcomed.

durango59rt
08-17-2008, 04:22 AM
bump..this is the problem I am having now..Does anyone have any input on this??

flyboy121785
08-17-2008, 04:31 AM
bump..this is the problem I am having now..Does anyone have any input on this??

Inside the steering column where the shift engage is I think there will be either plastic or metal pins. Check to see if they are worn or bent out of place. I had one on an oldsmobile that had the same problem. When I pressed on the break I can hear the safety system dis-engage to enable me to shift. So instead of pulling that all apart I went into the steering column first and discovered that it was bent. I straightened it with plyers and it worked fine for a few weeks...then snapped entirely lol. This will be some place good to start. Im guessing you also can't get your keys out :sorry: that sucks.

durango59rt
08-17-2008, 06:12 PM
Its weird because I can force it into the park position to get the keys out, but its not actually in park..The indicator still says reverse and it rolls back as if in reverse despite being in the park position.

durango59rt
08-17-2008, 06:15 PM
This is coupled with the transmission problems Ive been having which I have outlined in this thread (http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/showthread.php?t=56345)..

Basically where Im at now- The tranny refuses to shift when its supposed to and revs up past the shift point. When I let of the gas a little as it revs higher it sometimes drops into the next gear but its very inconsistent and obviously not working right since it keeps missing the shifts and over-revving..This happened on my ride home and when I pulled into my driveway I had the problem with not being able to go into park..So because of that my car has blocks behind it now as it is in reverse and I obviously am afraid to drive it even though I can start it in neutral...

flyboy121785
08-18-2008, 01:03 AM
This is coupled with the transmission problems Ive been having which I have outlined in this thread (http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/showthread.php?t=56345)..

Basically where Im at now- The tranny refuses to shift when its supposed to and revs up past the shift point. When I let of the gas a little as it revs higher it sometimes drops into the next gear but its very inconsistent and obviously not working right since it keeps missing the shifts and over-revving..This happened on my ride home and when I pulled into my driveway I had the problem with not being able to go into park..So because of that my car has blocks behind it now as it is in reverse and I obviously am afraid to drive it even though I can start it in neutral...

I see. I read the link aswell. Try tightening the bands on the tranny aswell...the linkage could be the problem. Theres so much crap that be causing this...well not alot but stuff that involves time like the bands, solenoids, linkage etc :sorry:

99dakRT
08-18-2008, 04:14 AM
I had the same problem... Shortly after I lost 2nd gear.. On the front band there is a piece that can break off, from what I hear???? Its probably broken and the piece fell and gets lodged when you try to shift into park.. You can tighten your bands but its not going to have any effect on it going into park.. your shifts will feel tighter after adjusting them tho..


Good luck man, I'm looking at a $2,500 rebuild

R/Tdurango02
08-18-2008, 06:16 AM
I have the same prob with the 02 RT. Useually as long as it drifts forward a hair after putting it in park the indicator will go to the p posistion. I think its just something stupid that does it , sometimes i just have to try a few times to get it to light up. Its not a big deal though cause it is in park and wont roll away and as soon as you put it in drive the reverse lights go out and the indicator moves to the d posistion

SheDevL
08-18-2008, 09:00 AM
This notice is sent to you in accordance with the requirements of the National Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act.

Chrysler has decided that a defect, which relates to motor vehicle safety, exists in some 2001 and 2002 model year Dodge Ram Van / Wagon, Dakota and Durango vehicles and 2002 model year Dodge Ram Pick Up Trucks equipped with a column mounted automatic transmission shift lever.

The problem is...
The Ignition / Park interlock system on your vehicle (VIN: ) may become inoperative. This can allow the shifter to be moved out of the "Park" position with the ignition key removed (or in the "Lock" position). This can also allow the ignition key to be removed when the shifter has not been placed in the "Park" position. Either of these conditions could allow the vehicle to roll away and cause a crash without warning.

What your dealer will do...
Chrysler will repair your vehicle free of charge (parts and labor). To do this, your dealer will replace the steering column gear shift blocker. The work will take about an hour to complete. However, additional time may be necessary depending on service schedules.

What you must do to ensure your safety...
Simply contact your dealer right away to schedule a service appointment. Ask the dealer to hold the parts for your vehicle or to order them before your appointment. Remember to bring this letter with you to your dealer.

If you need help...
If you have questions or concerns which your dealer is unable to resolve, please contact Chrysler at 1-800-853-1403

Please help us update our records, by filling out the attached prepaid postcard, if any of the conditions listed on the card apply to you or your vechicle.

If you have already experienced this condition and have paid to have it repaired, you may send your original receipst and / or other adequate proof of payment to the following address for reimbursement: Chrysler P.O. Box 4639 Oak Ridge, TN 37831, Attention: Reimbursement.

If your dealer fails or is unable to remedy this defect without charge and within a reasonable time, you may submit a written complaint to the Administrator, National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, 1200 New Jersey Ave., S.E., Washington, DC 20590, or call the toll-free Vechicle Safety Hotline at 1-888-327-4236 (TTY 1-800-424-9153), or go to http://www.safercar.gov.

We're sorry for any inconvenience, but we are sincerely concerned about your safety. Thank you for your attention to this important matter.

Customer Services Field Operations
Chrysler
Notification Code G28

---------------------

Ok... since my scanner didnt work, I just typed it all...
*edit: just found it - http://fleet.alaska.gov/Bulletins/chevG28.pdf*
Granted, I probably could have found the recall online somewhere, but oh well. I needed a typing lesson, haha.
I didnt get the letter myself, but a friend of mine scanned a copy for me.
My friend claims that it doesnt matter if its still under waranty or not... but who knows. I've been too lazy to go see.

SheDevL
08-18-2008, 09:09 AM
http://en.allexperts.com/q/Chrysler-Repair-807/2008/2/G28-recall.htm

Daktari
08-18-2008, 11:22 AM
yeah, they had a recall as the tranny may not lock in park and cause the vehicle to roll. Free dealer fix. But it may not also allow you to put it in park. IDK

durango59rt
08-18-2008, 11:17 PM
Called the dealer, said they would fix it due to the recall..have to wait till Monday which is a pain in the ass but at least its free..Dont think it will fix the problem I have with the overrevving on shifts though so Ill probably still have to have someone open up my tranny at some point :(

99dakRT
08-19-2008, 12:15 AM
Called the dealer, said they would fix it due to the recall..have to wait till Monday which is a pain in the ass but at least its free..Dont think it will fix the problem I have with the overrevving on shifts though so Ill probably still have to have someone open up my tranny at some point :(

When exactly is it over revving?? When it shifts into second??

durango59rt
08-19-2008, 04:40 AM
Yeah when it goes into second sometimes it misses the shift point and goes up to like 4,000 and if i ease of the gas it will occasionally drop in anyway.

99dakRT
08-19-2008, 05:35 PM
Yeah when it goes into second sometimes it misses the shift point and goes up to like 4,000 and if i ease of the gas it will occasionally drop in anyway.

If your driving in 3rd and give it enough gas so it downshifts into 2nd, will it over rev then too??? Sounds like your second gear may be gone..

durango59rt
08-19-2008, 06:28 PM
No its seems like its only really an issue when Im accelerating and going into a higher gear.

99dakRT
08-19-2008, 06:38 PM
No its seems like its only really an issue when Im accelerating and going into a higher gear.

If you take it to a trans shop they can hook up a scan tool and check your solenoid pressure to see if its fluctuating (sp?) very much... Could be a bad pressure soleniod.. They can also see if its going into the correct gears properly when shifting...

Could be a number of things.. Hopefully you get it figured out.. If you have any questions you can PM me and I'll try to help you out..

Z88Z
08-19-2008, 08:49 PM
I had the same problem... Shortly after I lost 2nd gear.. On the front band there is a piece that can break off, from what I hear???? Its probably broken and the piece fell and gets lodged when you try to shift into park.. You can tighten your bands but its not going to have any effect on it going into park..
A response from the Jeep side of the family....

I have a 98 5.9 Grand Cherokee (a couple actually) with the 46RE. My Stone White w/ only 100K miles did this and it was pretty much what 99dakRT said.
http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x290/Z88Zsstuff/5.jpg
No one on the Jeepforums had heard of it so I plunged in and figured it out.
Tried the cable adjustment first. Then removed the cable from the trans and figured out it was internal.

The piece that can drop is actually the "clutch band anchor" which I believe is not part of the band but is it's own separate piece. I think mine was from my 2nd gear band.
I guess they are only kept in place by the pressure from the band and when it wears to a certain point or if it goes out of adjustment there is enough slack for the anchor to drop out.

Took the trans pan off and found it sitting on top of the valve body where the internal part of the shifting mechanism would run into it and stop when I'd try to go into park. I had a pair of extra long needle nose pliers and I was able to move it around enough to fish it out of there without removing the valve body. Flexible 'graspers' or a magnet would probably work too.
It would have to come out from over the left front of the valve body and it takes a bit of wiggling and repositioning it to get it through that very small space. You folks have the starter on that side so there might not be as much room to work with.

Not a lot of fun but you can get your truck 90% driveable for the cost of a trans pan gasket, filter and ATF. Def won't solve all of your problems but it will get you your park back at least.

My ZJ is still very driveable as it is and it gets way better mileage now - ha ha, read on.
The Niner is fine in all other gears. Shifting normally or manually, there just isn't any 2nd gear to hit and it revs like crazy before third engages.
I'm afraid the motor will POP if I let it freewheel like that so I just drive it nice and easy in Drive for the time being. Nowhere near as much fun but I have others to drive when I need to get my blast on.
To be honest if you only use about 1/4 or 1/3 of the gas pedal travel it goes 1st to 3rd so smooth you can't even tell 2nd is missing. Kickdown even at highway speeds brings the same freewheel problem so I don't do that anymore either - hence the better MPGs now :-)
"Better" on a 5.9 ZJ means way up from 11-12MPG with a heavy right foot to about 14-15MPGs. Some folks report as much as 16 or 17 though. That's what you get with AWD.

I'm not that concerned about it as the Niner is slated for a 5spd. I believe I will take that 46RE trans and put a shift kit in it and be using a JW Ultrabell bellhousing converter (that's right, a converter for an auto trans) to use it behind a B motor for an even sicker project I have in mind.

So, if you explain this to a tranny shop there is a (small) chance they could reinstall the anchor and tighten the bands rather than rebuilding the trans.
Depending on your level of skillz you might even be able to do this yourself.

Almost certain it would involve dropping the valve body though, and it depends on whether the anchor dropped cuz the band was worn or not.
I don't recall my second slipping much before this happened so I think it might have just gone out of adjustment.
EDIT: BTW - I found almost no material in my trans pan when I dropped it which is why I think the clutch band itself may still be good.

Hope this helps - Z

99dakRT
08-19-2008, 09:21 PM
A response from the Jeep side of the family....

I have a 98 5.9 Grand Cherokee (a couple actually) with the 46RE. My Stone White w/ only 100K miles did this and it was pretty much what 99dakRT said.
http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x290/Z88Zsstuff/5.jpg
No one on the Jeepforums had heard of it so I plunged in and figured it out.
Tried the cable adjustment first. Then removed the cable from the trans and figured out it was internal.

The piece that can drop is actually the "clutch band anchor" which I believe is not part of the band but is it's own separate piece. I think mine was from my 2nd gear band.
I guess they are only kept in place by the pressure from the band and when it wears to a certain point or if it goes out of adjustment there is enough slack for the anchor to drop out.

Took the trans pan off and found it sitting on top of the valve body where the internal part of the shifting mechanism would run into it and stop when I'd try to go into park. I had a pair of extra long needle nose pliers and I was able to move it around enough to fish it out of there without removing the valve body. Flexible 'graspers' or a magnet would probably work too.
It would have to come out from over the left front of the valve body and it takes a bit of wiggling and repositioning it to get it through that very small space. You folks have the starter on that side so there might not be as much room to work with.

Not a lot of fun but you can get your truck 90% driveable for the cost of a trans pan gasket, filter and ATF. Def won't solve all of your problems but it will get you your park back at least.

My ZJ is still very driveable as it is and it gets way better mileage now - ha ha, read on.
The Niner is fine in all other gears. Shifting normally or manually, there just isn't any 2nd gear to hit and it revs like crazy before third engages.
I'm afraid the motor will POP if I let it freewheel like that so I just drive it nice and easy in Drive for the time being. Nowhere near as much fun but I have others to drive when I need to get my blast on.
To be honest if you only use about 1/4 or 1/3 of the gas pedal travel it goes 1st to 3rd so smooth you can't even tell 2nd is missing. Kickdown even at highway speeds brings the same freewheel problem so I don't do that anymore either - hence the better MPGs now :-)
"Better" on a 5.9 ZJ means way up from 11-12MPG with a heavy right foot to about 14-15MPGs. Some folks report as much as 16 or 17 though. That's what you get with AWD.

I'm not that concerned about it as the Niner is slated for a 5spd. I believe I will take that 46RE trans and put a shift kit in it and be using a JW Ultrabell bellhousing converter (that's right, a converter for an auto trans) to use it behind a B motor for an even sicker project I have in mind.

So, if you explain this to a tranny shop there is a (small) chance they could reinstall the anchor and tighten the bands rather than rebuilding the trans.
Depending on your level of skillz you might even be able to do this yourself.

Almost certain it would involve dropping the valve body though, and it depends on whether the anchor dropped cuz the band was worn or not.
I don't recall my second slipping much before this happened so I think it might have just gone out of adjustment.

Hope this helps - Z

Yeah, thats exactly whats wrong with mine.. I think I'm just going to do a rebuild tho.. Might as well fix it right and get the problem taken care of for good..

BTW: I think your right about the anchor only being held in by pressure from the band..

R/Tdurango02
08-23-2008, 01:06 AM
Thanks for the recall post, called the dealer and dropped it off last night and had it back by 10am this morning, good lookn out

durango59rt
08-30-2008, 09:01 PM
Ok so I had an appointment for the recall with the dealer. They do the recall but I realized it had nothing to do with my park problem. My car wouldnt go into park, the problem dealing with the recall was that the vehicle could slip out of park and subsequently roll if parked on any sort of incline. When I went to the dealer I asked them to take care of the recall anyway since my durango is a 2001 and the problem could eventually occur either way. I told them to just try to diagnose the transmission problem and explained to them the park issue as well as the problem I was having where I was overreving and not shifting out of first consistently.

I left the truck at the dealer and while I was at work they called me..Told me I needed a new transducer (this comes after I replaced the solenoid governor) and they would do the repair and a transmission servicing for $525. They also said they would look and see if the linkage was causing the park problem while the pan was dropped etc. Obviously I told them not to do anything and ordered the part online for $50 and got a new trans filter and gasket while I was at it.

So I change the transducer expecting it to fix the shifting problem and to my surprise I got park back as I was going thru the gears. My acceleration was normal as I tested it but again I was unable to shift out of first and my check engine light came back on. I tried it a couple times on the test drive (yes I did reset the computer after putting the parts in), and finally decided to drive back home and look at it again. I realized I had put a little too much oil in-it was over the indicated max level on the dipstick- so I figured that was probably the problem with the shifting.

Fast forward to today.. I decided that the oil level was probably causing the problem so I took off the bolts on three sides of the pan and let the oil drip into the drain and then filled it up from up top as needed. Figured the problem would be fixed and just for good measure I took another look at the relay circuits. I know my fog lights work so I switched the fog light relay with the trans one. Checked to see if my fog lights turned on and sure enough they did so I knew that couldnt be the problem. Reset the computer again and tested it on the road. At first I had the same problem, wouldnt shift out of first. When I let of the gas and played with it a little it finally dropped into second and I was fine from there, but the engine light came on during the struggle to get into second. So now Im at a stop and all of the sudden the acceleration issue is the problem again and it feels like I dont have first again. I stop the car, plug in the superchips to see the code and its the same exact one thats been coming up all along that Ive reset about 45 times since all this has been going on. So I clear the code and its the same thing as when I left the house: accelerations fine, struggle to get into second causing the engine light to come back on again and the rest of the gears are fine. Then when I come to a stop again and try to accelerate out of first I have the same problem where it feels like Im in second again.

This has to be an electronic problem right?? I dont know what else to change: I swapped out the solenoid pressure governor, solenoid pressure sensor (transducer), and I played with the circuit relays plus the oil level is where its supposed to be. There was nothing in the pan in terms of shavings and oil looked normal and wasn't thicker or anything. What else can this possibly be???

durango59rt
09-04-2008, 04:46 AM
Anyone have any input?

durango59rt
09-05-2008, 12:41 AM
I still have the same code constantly popping up..
p0748- solenoid pressure governor/trans relay circuits..

Now when I accelerate it still feels like I have no first gear and it makes a whining sound..

jplinville
09-11-2008, 03:46 AM
it's a gremlin issue? sorry, I couldnt' help it

durango59rt
09-11-2008, 04:25 AM
I ordered a speed sensor and if that doesnt work Im gonna try replacing the pcm. If that doesnt work I dont even know, in that case it might be the torque converter that needs to be replaced $$$$$...I love this :(

durango59rt
09-13-2008, 11:52 PM
I just swapped out the speed sensor and nothing changed. Went to drive it and see at first it was doing the whole no shifting thing, then the engine light came on and when i slowed down and tried to accelerate from first again i had no power again. Reset the code and same thing, wouldnt shift and when it did that the light came on and then if would shift but i had no accel when i started from a stop afterwards..so stillll the same shit.. Try to get a new pcm?? anyone have any ideas??

durango59rt
09-14-2008, 12:00 AM
So for anyone keeping score:

-changed the solenoid pressure governor
-changed the pressure sensor (transducer)
-changed output speed sensor
-checked circuits and relays
-rechecked the pressure governor to make sure there was no debris on it (if there were it would have likely been because of the torque converter-there was none and didnt change anything)
-oil level is where its supposed to be (with all the times ive had to drop the pan ive prob spent almost $100 just on oil)
-cleared the p0748 code at least 100 times in the past 2 months

anyone have any ideas at all? Should I try getting a replacement PCM? What would be other side affects of a dead PCM? Is it worth the gamble to replace it without knowing if it would do a thing like all the other things Ive tried?

One other thing, if i put the truck in nuetral and rev it sounds normal..if i have it in drive with my foot on the brake and rev it sounds muffled like it does when i try to accelerate and have no power..

Any help??

durango59rt
09-14-2008, 01:16 AM
Im about to buy a pcm off ebay but im not sure how reliable itd be..


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-Truck-Parts-Accessories__2001-2002-2003-Dodge-Durango-Engine-Computer-PCM-ECM_W0QQitemZ260284908261QQadnZCarQ20Q26Q20TruckQ2 0PartsQ20Q26Q20AccessoriesQQadiZ2865QQcmdZViewItem ?hash=item260284908261&_trkparms=72%3A543|39%3A1|65%3A12|240%3A1318&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245

Deez Durango
09-19-2008, 06:50 PM
Just picked up the Durango from the dealership from getting that recall done. I also had the problem of getting it into park, called the dealer they said it was open so might as well take care of it since its free. I get in take it down to drive then back up to park......no worky. still have to mess with it to get it in park. So after further reading of the recall notice i see that it says may cause the gear shifter to be pulled OUT of park without key in ignition. So i guess the only plus out of this is that that problem wont happen (knock on wood). So my question is...will the transducer fix the park problem??? Thanks in advance.

jbkelley01
09-30-2008, 06:24 AM
I am having the same problem with my 03 Durango R/T. I had stopped and put it into park several times throughout the day yesterday with no issues. My third stop at a friends house and it wouldn't go into park. It it has always shifted smoothly and has given me no signs of trouble. The shifter even goes up a few extra inches like it's going into park but still shows that it's in reverse. I was able to get it started in neutral to drive home. I am thinking Autozone doesn't have a little $3 can of parking brake fix so if anyone has found the fix please advise

FSTDANGO3
09-30-2008, 12:45 PM
There was a recall on the shifter recently for this exact problem , mine was troublesome before but has been perfect since.

Mystake
10-08-2008, 11:16 PM
I don't get why some of you are bothering.

Leave it in neutral and hit the parking brake just like you would in a stick :huh:

durango59rt
10-09-2008, 12:13 AM
because that doesnt work..if your on an incline it will still roll

Underwhere
10-11-2008, 01:13 AM
No its seems like its only really an issue when Im accelerating and going into a higher gear.



Any news on yours? Mine is doing the same thing but it happens more on turns.
Mine isn't a Durango, but a 99 Dak.

durango59rt
10-16-2008, 12:54 AM
I think its the pcm that failed..ive been at a standstill cause i bought a used one to find out it was from a security truck and couldnt work on mine..then i had to wait for tom fox to get back from vacation because i was going to have him flash the new one i ended up having to get and now im just waiting for him to ship it to me..so ill update and see if it fixed it but im really hoping it does or else i have no idea what to do haha..

Z88Z
10-16-2008, 03:27 AM
I don't get why some of you are bothering.
Leave it in neutral and hit the parking brake just like you would in a stick :huh:
Leave a manual trans in neutral? Maybe if you live in Florida! :-)

durango59rt
11-06-2008, 02:55 PM
Ok so Ive replaced the solenoid pressure governor, transducer, output speed sensor and now Ive just gotten a new pcm in and the problem still exists. Code reader lists these four things as potential reasons for the light to come on and gives no further possible alternatives. Ive changed all of them and the problem still exists: The truck feels like it has no power whatsoever and there is a windinhg/whirling type of sound coming from underneath the vehicle upon attempting to accelerate in drive or reverse. If Im in park and rev everything sounds normal ust like it should, but once I put it in drive the exhaust sounds muffled, the whirling sound persists when I hit the gas, and there is absolutely no acceleration once it begins moving. Im running out of ideas here..Could this be the torque converter gone bad? Has anyone had similar problems or problems with torque converters in general?

Anyone with any possible assistance please let me know if you have any information that might help..

Like I said, the same code (p0748) is still being thrown.

FSTDANGO3
11-07-2008, 12:39 PM
Is it possible your catalytic converter is clogged.
With car in park and sitting still there is no load on teh engine and the cat may be free enough but as soon as you try and go with a load it may be restricting too much. There is a big difference with revving it in the driveway and spinning a powertrain.

durango59rt
11-14-2008, 06:21 AM
Dont know if anyones been following this at all but today I threw in the white flag. Traded the Durango in as part of the deal I got on an 08 Hemi Ram. MSRP 38000 got it for 25

Dakota 5.2L
12-03-2013, 01:54 AM
Yeah when it goes into second sometimes it misses the shift point and goes up to like 4,000 and if i ease of the gas it will occasionally drop in anyway.

I have the same problem with my 99 dakota 5.2 it's my speed sensor output on the tranny .Hope this helps you.