TazRango
06-03-2009, 03:02 AM
Got this set of fog lights from AutomatCentral to replace my fugly stockers. The stock lenses were sandblasted and cracked, and the bulbs kept exploding from the water that got inside.
This is what comes in the package. The wiring harness looks good, it's all sleeved, so all you have to do is drop it in and ziptie it to the factory loom. Most other light sets come with a harness that isn't sleeved. Also includes a relay and a SPDT switch (I won't be using the switch, since I have factory fogs - I'll be tying it in to the stock wiring).
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v227/TaZMaNiaK/Durango/CIMG1609.jpg
These are NOT stock replacements and will not use the stock mounting location. They come with their own brackets which have to be drilled for. If you mount them to the outer bumper braces, they will be positioned dead center in the valance hole. They are also a tad smaller than stock, but it's not that big of an issue.
Now, this would be a simple drill-and-mount install, except for the fact that with the valance installed, it is impossible to drill in the correct location without the bit walking all over the place becuse it is a really awkward angle (even centerpunching does not help). So basically I just marked where the brackets will go, and removed the corner braces to drill them off the truck (Four 18mm bolts for each brace, and you don't even have to take the bumper off). A 3/16" hole is perfect for the screws that come with the kit.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v227/TaZMaNiaK/Durango/CIMG1610.jpg
Then just screw down the brackets and re-install the braces. Snug the bracket screws down, but don't tighten them yet. You still have to aim them.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v227/TaZMaNiaK/Durango/CIMG1612.jpg
As you can see, the bracket looks a little cockeyed, but that's because of the way the brace is positioned relative to the valance. The slots in the brackets allow you to compensate for this.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v227/TaZMaNiaK/Durango/CIMG1613.jpg
The light housings themselves are nice. They are metal with a glass lens, so they won't cloud up like the stock plastics. They come with an H3 (55w) bulb, which is brighter than the stock 893 (37.5w). The larger gap between the housing and valance could be good here, because these will probably get hotter than the stockers. Less risk of melting the valance. The only design oversight I see is that it appears to be a PITA to change the bulbs once they are installed. The main bulb is held in by 4 screws. Three hold on the cover (which has an O-ring seal), then a fourth underneath holds the bulb into the housing.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v227/TaZMaNiaK/Durango/CIMG1611.jpg
All that's left to do is mount the housing to the bracket...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v227/TaZMaNiaK/Durango/CIMG1615.jpg
And connect the wires..
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v227/TaZMaNiaK/Durango/CIMG1617.jpg
Both mounted..
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v227/TaZMaNiaK/Durango/CIMG1621.jpg
The wiring harness is simple. Just find a spot to mount the relay and a bolt to ground it (I used existing bolts for both) and run a wire to the battery/PDC (I hooked it to the main fuse stud in the PDC). Would've been nice if the fuseholder had a mounting tab too, but w/e.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v227/TaZMaNiaK/Durango/CIMG1620.jpg
If you were to require the switch, you'd just run that harness through the firewall and cut out the hole for it. Plug it in and you're done.
Now, I did run into a snag while hooking this up to the factory fog circuit. The relay harness is wired for a positive trigger (meaning that the switch supplies the relay with battery voltage). The stock fogs use a ground trigger. So I will have to swap pins in the relay socket in order to make it work. I did not get to do this yet. Later on this week I will wire it in and get them aimed, and show some pics at night.
This is what comes in the package. The wiring harness looks good, it's all sleeved, so all you have to do is drop it in and ziptie it to the factory loom. Most other light sets come with a harness that isn't sleeved. Also includes a relay and a SPDT switch (I won't be using the switch, since I have factory fogs - I'll be tying it in to the stock wiring).
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v227/TaZMaNiaK/Durango/CIMG1609.jpg
These are NOT stock replacements and will not use the stock mounting location. They come with their own brackets which have to be drilled for. If you mount them to the outer bumper braces, they will be positioned dead center in the valance hole. They are also a tad smaller than stock, but it's not that big of an issue.
Now, this would be a simple drill-and-mount install, except for the fact that with the valance installed, it is impossible to drill in the correct location without the bit walking all over the place becuse it is a really awkward angle (even centerpunching does not help). So basically I just marked where the brackets will go, and removed the corner braces to drill them off the truck (Four 18mm bolts for each brace, and you don't even have to take the bumper off). A 3/16" hole is perfect for the screws that come with the kit.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v227/TaZMaNiaK/Durango/CIMG1610.jpg
Then just screw down the brackets and re-install the braces. Snug the bracket screws down, but don't tighten them yet. You still have to aim them.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v227/TaZMaNiaK/Durango/CIMG1612.jpg
As you can see, the bracket looks a little cockeyed, but that's because of the way the brace is positioned relative to the valance. The slots in the brackets allow you to compensate for this.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v227/TaZMaNiaK/Durango/CIMG1613.jpg
The light housings themselves are nice. They are metal with a glass lens, so they won't cloud up like the stock plastics. They come with an H3 (55w) bulb, which is brighter than the stock 893 (37.5w). The larger gap between the housing and valance could be good here, because these will probably get hotter than the stockers. Less risk of melting the valance. The only design oversight I see is that it appears to be a PITA to change the bulbs once they are installed. The main bulb is held in by 4 screws. Three hold on the cover (which has an O-ring seal), then a fourth underneath holds the bulb into the housing.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v227/TaZMaNiaK/Durango/CIMG1611.jpg
All that's left to do is mount the housing to the bracket...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v227/TaZMaNiaK/Durango/CIMG1615.jpg
And connect the wires..
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v227/TaZMaNiaK/Durango/CIMG1617.jpg
Both mounted..
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v227/TaZMaNiaK/Durango/CIMG1621.jpg
The wiring harness is simple. Just find a spot to mount the relay and a bolt to ground it (I used existing bolts for both) and run a wire to the battery/PDC (I hooked it to the main fuse stud in the PDC). Would've been nice if the fuseholder had a mounting tab too, but w/e.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v227/TaZMaNiaK/Durango/CIMG1620.jpg
If you were to require the switch, you'd just run that harness through the firewall and cut out the hole for it. Plug it in and you're done.
Now, I did run into a snag while hooking this up to the factory fog circuit. The relay harness is wired for a positive trigger (meaning that the switch supplies the relay with battery voltage). The stock fogs use a ground trigger. So I will have to swap pins in the relay socket in order to make it work. I did not get to do this yet. Later on this week I will wire it in and get them aimed, and show some pics at night.