02 4.7 needs more power please help lol

[KotaKid287]

Like the title says I've got a 02 rcsb Dak 4.7 that I desperately want to get more power out of it. I'm not looking for an all out race truck, but I'm sick of being stuck in the 14s at the track while my freinds 4k lb 4dr GTP is running 13.90s with 2 less cyls.:rant: I am on a bit of a budget as most are right now, and kinda need to know about how much money is it gonna take to get my Dak solidly into the 13s or faster.
Heres my current setup: HO Jeep intake, stock cams (never got around to the HO cams cause I wanted to go more extreme), 70mm Throttle body, Air Aid cai, Gibson headers, 2 1/2" true dual exhaust, under drive crank pulley, clutch fan removed, 180* T-stat, stock 3.55s, Powertrax No-Slip locker, and a 3715 Superchip. The fastest my truck has been on this setup is 14.64@92mph on 27x9-15 slicks, only pulling off 2.1 60's.
How much is it gonna cost me to do what I'm wanting to do, I would love to do some kind of boosted setup but it will be so far into the future before I could afford that it isn't funny so don't even consider that when you make suggestions for me lol.

[moparsz]

4.10 gears would help out a lot, and also put some cams in. that would get you to lower 14's in just those 2 things

[mthandt]

SCT, a stall converter, gears and some cams should get you there.

[AIR_RAM]

Like the title says I've got a 02 rcsb Dak 4.7 that I desperately want to get more power out of it. I'm not looking for an all out race truck, but I'm sick of being stuck in the 14s at the track while my freinds 4k lb 4dr GTP is running 13.90s with 2 less cyls.:rant: I am on a bit of a budget as most are right now, and kinda need to know about how much money is it gonna take to get my Dak solidly into the 13s or faster.
Heres my current setup: HO Jeep intake, stock cams (never got around to the HO cams cause I wanted to go more extreme), 70mm Throttle body, Air Aid cai, Gibson headers, 2 1/2" true dual exhaust, under drive crank pulley, clutch fan removed, 180* T-stat, stock 3.55s, Powertrax No-Slip locker, and a 3715 Superchip. The fastest my truck has been on this setup is 14.64@92mph on 27x9-15 slicks, only pulling off 2.1 60's.
How much is it gonna cost me to do what I'm wanting to do, I would love to do some kind of boosted setup but it will be so far into the future before I could afford that it isn't funny so don't even consider that when you make suggestions for me lol.

Im not sure how I overlooked your question... I appologize for the delayed responce and thank moparsz & mthandt for stepping up and offering some guidence to you.

I agree with both of them, I would invest in a set gears first.

Here is a list of mods that would gain you the most bolt on HP without going into the engine.


4.56 GEARS - depending on your tire height 410's/4.56's. Personally if your tire hight is taller then 30" tall I would lean towards 4.56's.
ELECTRIC FAN - FLEX-A-LITE 180 FREE = 10RWHP ... You have a factory electric fan which will keep everything cool even without the clutch fan.
2008 INTAKE MANIFOLD or our SULLIVAN ALUMINUM INTAKE MANIFOLD -
4.7L PERFORMANCE CAMS - H/O's, 206's or 212 Cams Im a fan of the factory H/O cams in HEAVY trucks or trucks that will be used for work or on the road oe when torque is needed most.
SUPERCHIPS FLASHPAQ - Great with up to 70mm throttle body and H/O cams.
HEADERS -
SINGLE 3" EXHAUST -
HIGH FLOW "Y" PIPE & MUFFLER -
70-72MM THROTTLE BODY - F&B. Chose the largest Throttle body you can tune for. (70mm for Superchips & 72mm for SCT custom tune)
RACE PORTED HEADS -
CUSTOM PROGRAMMER - SCT CUSTOM TUNE (Needed with PORTED HEADS & or 206, 212, 212x, 218 or greater custom cams & or 72mm throttle body)
2800 STALL CONVERTER - This will get you off the line quicker by allowing your engine to rev to approx 2800 before the transmission engages... Under part throttle would would not notice much of a difference at all... but put your foot down and the RPM's will rocket to the desired RPM getting you closer to your RPM power band.



If you have any questions please feel free to contact me.


SPEED SAFE, AIR RAM

[KotaKid287]

Its all good man, thanks to all of you. I've already tried 4.56s and they were too low so I took them back out, I will prob go back with the 4.10s really soon and I also have plans to get a set of Caltracs to get rid of the horrible wheel hop my truck has. I didn't know there was a converter avail for the 4.7, where might I find one of them didn't see one on your site either.

I have headers on the truck and already have exhaust taken care of, I have a Superchips 3715, have the 70mm TB, have the HO intake (not the 08 though), and also have the clutch fan removed with a 180* T-stat.

If I did the 4.10s, Caltracs, lets say factory HO cams for now so I won't have to do a custom tune yet, a stage 3 valve body, and 2800 converter. Do you think that would be enough to get me down into the 13s, I think if not I would be dang close. The truck is my DD too so I can't go but so extreme with it lol.

[KotaKid287]

Ok I did some checking around on that converter, and can't find crap for the 4.7 but I found a bunch of options for the Hemi. Since they both use the 45rfe are the converters interchangeable?

[mthandt]

The first two on this page:


http://www.airram.com/parts.php?categoryid=880


I really want to get one of these but IDK about the installation. I know it isn't too difficult but it is something so major that is worries me a little. I am really thinking about getting a 2600 stall converter because I think that is the only way I am going to be able to reach 13's. It is going to be the missing piece.

[KotaKid287]

Wow I'm blind in one eye and can't see out the other lol, so by looking at them the top one is the better choice for the street and the cheapest aftermarket converter I've seen for the 45rfe. It is a 2600 stall and you recommended a 2800 Air Ram, is that little bit of a difference anything to worry about or would you reccomend the bottom of the two for what I want to do. Just asking to make sure I'm getting the best thing for my application.

[mthandt]

Wow I'm blind in one eye and can't see out the other lol, so by looking at them the top one is the better choice for the street and the cheapest aftermarket converter I've seen for the 45rfe. It is a 2600 stall and you recommended a 2800 Air Ram, is that little bit of a difference anything to worry about or would you reccomend the bottom of the two for what I want to do. Just asking to make sure I'm getting the best thing for my application.


Well here is the way I was thinking, somebody correct me if I'm wrong. I am going with the HO cams and they make more power down low IDK exactly where but I'm gonna try to get a dyno before I get a converter to see where my power starts at. I was thinking that a 2600 stall would be good for the HO cams or more of a stock motor because the power would start down low in the rpms. Now I would go with the 2800 if you went with the 206 or bigger cams because their power starts higher in the rpms so you would want the higher stall to get you up there faster. Again IDK where the power for the HO cams starts, maybe it starts at 2800 rpms and that would make a 2800 stall converter perfect.:huh: If I decide to get a converter it is probably gonna be the first one stalled to 2600 anyways because I'm not gonna shell out the dough for the higher stall one when I won't be going to the track too often to take advantage of it.

it made sense to me but it might be a jumbled mess to anyone else reading it. If it I explained badly LMK so I can try to re-word it.:funny:

[AIR_RAM]

Well here is the way I was thinking, somebody correct me if I'm wrong. I am going with the HO cams and they make more power down low IDK exactly where but I'm gonna try to get a dyno before I get a converter to see where my power starts at. I was thinking that a 2600 stall would be good for the HO cams or more of a stock motor because the power would start down low in the rpms. Now I would go with the 2800 if you went with the 206 or bigger cams because their power starts higher in the rpms so you would want the higher stall to get you up there faster. Again IDK where the power for the HO cams starts, maybe it starts at 2800 rpms and that would make a 2800 stall converter perfect.:huh: If I decide to get a converter it is probably gonna be the first one stalled to 2600 anyways because I'm not gonna shell out the dough for the higher stall one when I won't be going to the track too often to take advantage of it.

it made sense to me but it might be a jumbled mess to anyone else reading it. If it I explained badly LMK so I can try to re-word it.:funny:

The 2600 would be perfect for your application. Basically when you place your order we will contact Edge on and give him the specifics of your vehicle. They will then chose one off there shelf that fits your need or custom build that converter for your application... In most cases they will have one on the shelf.

But it is specific to your needs. We will need to know the ball part HP & torque range so the converter can be best matched up. If you plan to run ANY type of boost that needs to be known. The amount of low end torque has everything to do with the stall of the converter. So this means that if your making 230RWHP and purchases for instance the 2600 Edge torque converter that torque converter is matched to your POWER band. So if you add more HP to your engine the torque converter you purchased would stall at a higher RPM... So if you jumped up to 300RWHP then your torque converter would then flash at 2800-2900RPMs... If you boosted your engine and made 400HP then that torque converter may flash at 3200 RPMs because you would be making more low end torque.... This is why torque converters is NOT a exact science... its flash is directly related to how much power the engine is producing. So you would need to take that into consideration when choosing one. I feel your safe at 2600 because if you added another 100HP then it would flash slightly higher and that would be a GOOD THING in my opinion.

If you plan on boosting your engine then you may want to chose a 2200 converter... But again for NA I think you would be wise to go with the 2600.

SPEED SAFE, NICK

[KotaKid287]

I can't afford to put any boost on my truck, so I'm guessing what I'm looking at is a 2600 stall converter, 4.10s, the stage 3 valve body, and a set of Caltracs.

Converter $375
Cams $290
Gears + install kit $300ish
Caltracs $350
Valve body $330
Total little north of $1600

[mthandt]

Anybody know how much it is gonna be to install a TC. I don't know if I really want to tackle this project on my own.

[moparsz]

I can't afford to put any boost on my truck, so I'm guessing what I'm looking at is a 2600 stall converter, 4.10s, the stage 3 valve body, and a set of Caltracs.

Converter $375
Cams $290
Gears + install kit $300ish
Caltracs $350
Valve body $330
Total little north of $1600

That would be plenty but I don't know if you're going spend the $$$ to do that all at once. If you don't I would get them in this order

Gears + install kit $300ish
Cams $290
Converter $375
Valve body $330
Caltracs $350

I also would suggest doing the converter and valve body at the same time just to save the money for the trans fluid. change the filters (both of them) while you're at it too.

[moparsz]

Anybody know how much it is gonna be to install a TC. I don't know if I really want to tackle this project on my own.
wimp :jester:

The hardest part in pulling the trans out

[KotaKid287]

That would be plenty but I don't know if you're going spend the $$$ to do that all at once. If you don't I would get them in this order

Gears + install kit $300ish
Cams $290
Converter $375
Valve body $330
Caltracs $350

I also would suggest doing the converter and valve body at the same time just to save the money for the trans fluid. change the filters (both of them) while you're at it too.

Thats about the same order I was thinking, although the Caltracs are a little higher on the list. The TC is easy to change like said the only hard part is dropping the trans, once its out the TC just slides out and the new one back in. Just make sure you have it all the way into the trans. The Valve body is the only thing I'm worried about, everything else will be a breeze to me. Does the 45rfe have a bunch of check balls to keep track of when dropping the valve body down?

[AIR_RAM]

Thats about the same order I was thinking, although the Caltracs are a little higher on the list. The TC is easy to change like said the only hard part is dropping the trans, once its out the TC just slides out and the new one back in. Just make sure you have it all the way into the trans. The Valve body is the only thing I'm worried about, everything else will be a breeze to me. Does the 45rfe have a bunch of check balls to keep track of when dropping the valve body down?

The 45RFE valve body is a simple swap out... not difficult what so ever. I do recomend grabbing a couple of new filters and swap them out at the same time... Its also a good time to consider an aftermarket pan that can help cooling and hold more fluid, the PML pans have drain holes so it makes it easy to change your fluid without having to drop the pan then next time you need to change the fluid.

But I would not be intimidated with the valve body swap... Its easy as pie! :worky:


SPEED SAFE, AIR RAM

[mthandt]

wimp :jester:

The hardest part in pulling the trans out


Caught me, lol. Ummmm, I mean I don't have a tranny jack so I can't do it.:outtahere:funny:

[KotaKid287]

The 45RFE valve body is a simple swap out... not difficult what so ever. I do recomend grabbing a couple of new filters and swap them out at the same time... Its also a good time to consider an aftermarket pan that can help cooling and hold more fluid, the PML pans have drain holes so it makes it easy to change your fluid without having to drop the pan then next time you need to change the fluid.

But I would not be intimidated with the valve body swap... Its easy as pie! :worky:


SPEED SAFE, AIR RAM

Good to hear, anytime I have a pan off of a tranny new filters go on so no biggie there. I'll think about the deeper pan too, I thought I saw a note on one of the deeper pans that said it wouldn't fit 2wd Daks.

[moparsz]

Does the 45rfe have a bunch of check balls to keep track of when dropping the valve body down?

Its simple to do. just unplug it and remove like 4-5 screws and it comes right out. Once the pan is dropped and fluid drained, it would take 2 min to swap out

[moparsz]

Good to hear, anytime I have a pan off of a tranny new filters go on so no biggie there. I'll think about the deeper pan too, I thought I saw a note on one of the deeper pans that said it wouldn't fit 2wd Daks.

I have one on mine and its also lowered and I've only lightly scraped it on a tall curb. If I go at an angle on the same curb it didn't hit.

[KotaKid287]

I was under the impression that the deeper pan would interfere with the tranny crossmember, but if you got one on yours I guess it will fit lol.

[moparsz]

I was under the impression that the deeper pan would interfere with the tranny crossmember, but if you got one on yours I guess it will fit lol.
nope, no problems with it at all. fits just fine.

[mikset]

nope, no problems with it at all. fits just fine.



I just ordered an Edge 2600 converter and was looking into a deeper pan. The info I got on PML's site is that it won't fit on a 4.7 4x4. Isn't your truck 2wd?

[mthandt]

I just ordered an Edge 2600 converter and was looking into a deeper pan. The info I got on PML's site is that it won't fit on a 4.7 4x4. Isn't your truck 2wd?


I believe it won' fit because the y-pipe is in the way.

[mthandt]

Oh and definitely let me know how the converter goes

[moparsz]

I just ordered an Edge 2600 converter and was looking into a deeper pan. The info I got on PML's site is that it won't fit on a 4.7 4x4. Isn't your truck 2wd?

yes, mine is a 2 wheel drive

[moparsz]

I believe it won' fit because the y-pipe is in the way.

is the y pipe differently on a 4x4. my pan is behind where the y pipe comes across

[Dj Wolf]

I have one on mine and its also lowered and I've only lightly scraped it on a tall curb. If I go at an angle on the same curb it didn't hit.
got any pics of the clearance? what size drop on what size tires?

[moparsz]

got any pics of the clearance? what size drop on what size tires?

I know I have some. I'll put some up when I get home

[moparsz]

I know I have some. I'll put some up when I get home
Here you go, and mine is lowered 2" in the front and 3 1/2" in the rear, with 255x50x17's in the front and 275x50x17's in the rear
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b369/moparsz/100_3819.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b369/moparsz/100_3817.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b369/moparsz/100_3815.jpg

[Dj Wolf]

yeah i don't think that would work with my drop, thanks for the pics.

[mthandt]

is the y pipe differently on a 4x4. my pan is behind where the y pipe comes across


Yeah I think the y is moved farther back because of suspension parts or something. Not sure though.


Oh and that pan is sweet.:banana2: