rear end swap

[kams]

what year 8 3/4 will fit in the stock location in my 1988 dodge dakota, cause already have a 3.23 sure grip for it, and truck has mild 318 5 speed but want to end up putting turbos on it with a rebuilt engine.

thanks

[charger_340]

I, too, am curious. A 318 will probably grace my first gen's bay after this winter, and I don't think the 7 1/4 will like that.

[kams]

66-70 b body rear ends will fit

[87DakBuilder]

I agree, I have a 68 b body 8.75, and it looks like there won't be any problems at all. I'll be putting it in for a test fit this weekend actually. I'll post up pics and info on it over the weekend. I also know that 70-74 ebody 8.75s will fit as well. Marty from KRC put one in his 96 Dak a few years back. Did a decent write up on it as well. Most of the infor you will need about the swap is over on Bionicdodge.com. Not premoting other sites, but the info is there if you want/need it.

[WarlocK451]

I got a 1970 A-body 8 3/4 with 3.55's under my 1988 Dakota pictured below...handles 530hp that my 451 stroker hits it with. B-E body rear ends are too wide and will not fit right under the truck.


Use an A-body 8 3/4 rear housing because the A-Bodies and Dakotas share almost identical track width. Just cut the original spring pearches off, and have new ones welded in the proper location to accomodate the springs. This rear end fits like it should've been there from the factory when done right.

[realdeal7369]

I, too, am curious. A 318 will probably grace my first gen's bay after this winter, and I don't think the 7 1/4 will like that.

there were many a 7.25" rears behind 318's. my 69 barracuda had one. granted its considers as low performance and all, but its not like a mildly built 318 will bust it any.

[charger_340]

there were many a 7.25" rears behind 318's. my 69 barracuda had one. granted its considers as low performance and all, but its not like a mildly built 318 will bust it any.

Hmm, I had a friend smoke multiple 8 1/4 in his FS Dodge with a high mile 318 in it, but he also beats the piss out of stuff more than anyone I know. I'll probably run the 7 1/4 for awhile until I find the perfect 8 3/4.

[Captain Chaos]

http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/axle/17.html

Heres the info I used for my selection. Go take measurements of your existing housing and go from there. :onethumb:

[rschrum]

I had a 66 charger 8.75 under my 89 shelby. Had to redo the perches and fab shock mounts. These are wider than the A bodys, but if you get the right backspace on your wheels they work fine. When I decided to mini tub and narrow decided to go bullet proof and narrowed a dana 60. Took an old 3/4 ton truck dana and whacked the ends off, welded on new ends and ordered moser 35 spline axels. works great. also remember this, when you break a rear end there is a good chance it will also take out the tranny.

[charger_340]

^Wow, do you have any full body shots of that truck? I'd love to see some.

[rschrum]

Here is what I have so far. I'm having to compress the images. 410 LA 500HP pump gas with a 150 shot. 2 year project.

[WarlocK451]

also remember this, when you break a rear end there is a good chance it will also take out the tranny.[/


If your going anymore than 400HP with a torque flite, a bolt in sprag clutch is a must. The factory sprag clutch is just pressed in and when the rear end unloads is shocks the sprag so hard that it typically will break loose, its RPM will double that of the engine's and explode...resulting in holes in the floor, roof, you... see my point... many times the explosion is so severe that a explosion shield wont contain it. An eplosion blanket is a must over 600 hp.

[rschrum]

Warlock is correct. Bolt in sprag and as many other HD parts as you can afford. I found the weak link in my 518,46rh, when the hub on the back of the input shaft snapped off. Talked with Rick at AA and ended up with 2000.00 in HD parts. Bolt in sprag, billet 2nd gear hub, stainless input shaft and hub etc. Haven't been able to break it since. I'm getting too old to be pulling trany's very often

[1stGen360dakota]

I wanted to put a 8 3/4 in my dakota but I couldnt find one that was less than 600 bucks that was set up like I wanted. So I went with an 8.8 out of a 94 exployer 4 wheel drive and it fit great. I found one with a limited slip, 3.73 gears, and 31 spline axles. I ground off the old mounts and put some mopar performance spring mounts and comp. eng. shock mounts. I know that alot of mopar guys would consider this sacreligious but it was a cost thing for me. I got the rearend at the u-pull it junkyard for 60 bucks and although it took several hours to get it out it was well worth it.

[dakotajr]

I have an 8 3/4 rear that is 5/8" wider than a stock dakota rear. 5x4.5 lug pattern, 742 center section, just needs backing plates, brakes and drums (which are the same off from an 8 1/4 rear), and the spring perches welded in for a dakota width. I am unsure of the gear ratio. It can be yours for the low, low price of $100. Just PM me if interested.
The 742 housing is the non crush sleeve housing, so it is more desirable.

[schaffer]

I wanted to put a 8 3/4 in my dakota but I couldnt find one that was less than 600 bucks that was set up like I wanted. So I went with an 8.8 out of a 94 exployer 4 wheel drive and it fit great. I found one with a limited slip, 3.73 gears, and 31 spline axles. I ground off the old mounts and put some mopar performance spring mounts and comp. eng. shock mounts. I know that alot of mopar guys would consider this sacreligious but it was a cost thing for me. I got the rearend at the u-pull it junkyard for 60 bucks and although it took several hours to get it out it was well worth it.

Do you have any pics of your rear end set-up.I'm thinkin of putting a dana 44 or a 60 in the rear but i hear the 8.8 that ford makes is a beast

[koda crazy]

I wanted to put a 8 3/4 in my dakota but I couldnt find one that was less than 600 bucks that was set up like I wanted. So I went with an 8.8 out of a 94 exployer 4 wheel drive and it fit great. I found one with a limited slip, 3.73 gears, and 31 spline axles. I ground off the old mounts and put some mopar performance spring mounts and comp. eng. shock mounts. I know that alot of mopar guys would consider this sacreligious but it was a cost thing for me. I got the rearend at the u-pull it junkyard for 60 bucks and although it took several hours to get it out it was well worth it.

do you have any pic's of it done would like to see them!! thank's!!

[jacksdodges]

you will need to weld on the shock mounts also. I put a A 100 rear end in mine.I think its the same as the A body. All the brake parts from your rear end should change over. I had to drill one hole in each side where it bolts your axle in.

[koda crazy]

I wanted to put a 8 3/4 in my dakota but I couldnt find one that was less than 600 bucks that was set up like I wanted. So I went with an 8.8 out of a 94 exployer 4 wheel drive and it fit great. I found one with a limited slip, 3.73 gears, and 31 spline axles. I ground off the old mounts and put some mopar performance spring mounts and comp. eng. shock mounts. I know that alot of mopar guys would consider this sacreligious but it was a cost thing for me. I got the rearend at the u-pull it junkyard for 60 bucks and although it took several hours to get it out it was well worth it.

what did you do for the drive shaft? How did you get that to work? let me know thanks..

[1stGen360dakota]

I went to a driveline shop with my yoke and told the guy how long I wanted it and told him it was going into a 8.8 ford rear and he made me one with spicer u-joints and it was a perfect fit. I think it cost me a little less than 200 bucks. I just recently took the factory posi unit out and put a mini spool in it after finding a non-posi carrier. Im not too crazy about the spool but at the track it works great.

[koda crazy]

I went to a driveline shop with my yoke and told the guy how long I wanted it and told him it was going into a 8.8 ford rear and he made me one with spicer u-joints and it was a perfect fit. I think it cost me a little less than 200 bucks. I just recently took the factory posi unit out and put a mini spool in it after finding a non-posi carrier. Im not too crazy about the spool but at the track it works great.

I have a 8.8 out of a explore and its non posi. just have to figure out what I'm going to do. spool or after market posi unit. thanks for the info. What don't you like about the spool? bad on the street? thanks again.

[1stGen360dakota]

Its tough going around corners and it drags the tire on the side you are turning. I have 275/60/15s hoosier drag radials on it at the moment and so far I have yet to get caught in the rain which I think would be kinda sketchy! I forgot about the shock mounts that I had to weld on. They were comp. eng. mounts that had to be opened up. I will try to post some pics this next week on a lift.

[koda crazy]

Its tough going around corners and it drags the tire on the side you are turning. I have 275/60/15s hoosier drag radials on it at the moment and so far I have yet to get caught in the rain which I think would be kinda sketchy! I forgot about the shock mounts that I had to weld on. They were comp. eng. mounts that had to be opened up. I will try to post some pics this next week on a lift.

any pics yet? I got a quote for the new 373's and a posi unit $500 bucks.
and they said I have to weld the tubes to the center section. its a weak point I geuss. Also what wheels your running? 15x8 what back space or the wheels?

[1stGen360dakota]

If you plan on running in the 9s I would weld the tubes if not they are strong enough. I am running 15 x 8 wheels with 4 1/2 back spacing. The shock mounts you need are competition engineering part number 3170 and the shock mounts are mopar part number p4120074. The shock mounts will need to be opened up to fit around the axle tube. I will try to get some pics this afternoon.

[koda crazy]

If you plan on running in the 9s I would weld the tubes if not they are strong enough. I am running 15 x 8 wheels with 4 1/2 back spacing. The shock mounts you need are competition engineering part number 3170 and the shock mounts are mopar part number p4120074. The shock mounts will need to be opened up to fit around the axle tube. I will try to get some pics this afternoon.

O.K thanks for the great info. Yea no I don't ever plan on running 9's.
The guy I'm dealing with is a power trip. He like to over think every thing.
With this back spacing the wheels don't stick out right. I don't like that look at all. I would like the wheels to be even with the box side's. From your pic's it looks very good. thanks again

[1stGen360dakota]

http://therangerstation.com/tech_library/Axles.html This site gives you all the information you need to locate the right rear end. I copied this and took it to the junkyard with me and found a 3.73 limited slip in a 94 explorer 4x4 and it has the drum brake setup. If you want to go the mini spool route you can get one with a open diff. If you go the limited slip way and want to change to a mini spool you have to get a open carrier. I found this out the hard way. lol

[koda crazy]

http://therangerstation.com/tech_library/Axles.html This site gives you all the information you need to locate the right rear end. I copied this and took it to the junkyard with me and found a 3.73 limited slip in a 94 explorer 4x4 and it has the drum brake setup. If you want to go the mini spool route you can get one with a open diff. If you go the limited slip way and want to change to a mini spool you have to get a open carrier. I found this out the hard way. lol

Thats what I have is the non-posi rear end. So I have to decide what I'm going to use. It's so much money. I might just look for one that's already posi like the one you have. Maybe I can sell the one I have. If i use this one I'm looking at $500 just for the 373s and the posi unit not installed. Plus whatever it takes to make it fit the truck. will see what happens. thanks

[koda crazy]

I have an 8 3/4 rear that is 5/8" wider than a stock dakota rear. 5x4.5 lug pattern, 742 center section, just needs backing plates, brakes and drums (which are the same off from an 8 1/4 rear), and the spring perches welded in for a dakota width. I am unsure of the gear ratio. It can be yours for the low, low price of $100. Just PM me if interested.
The 742 housing is the non crush sleeve housing, so it is more desirable.

still have this rear end? if so let me know thanks.

[littlejohn44]

I have to cut an 8 3/4 down from a d100. Does anyone know offhand the flange to flange measurements of an A-body. i have seen a few go o ebay and it seems they had a bunch of diffrent measurements.

[dakotajr]

Koda Crazy - Yup, still have the 8 3/4 rear. PM'd

Littlejohn44 - Flange to flange on an A-Body rear is 57 1/8"
the housing itself is 52 5/8, the spring perches are 43"
Here is a link to mopar rears and their dimensions:
http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/axle/16.html

[littlejohn44]

There is an e- body 56 1/2 on ebay right now for 100$ plus 40$ shipping. Thanks for the info. I guess I missed the links on the other post. lol

[littlejohn44]

I am a little confused now. I think I know why I keep seeing 2 diffrent numbers on Ebay, but according to the link an a-body is 52 5/8 flange to flange. What is the housing measurements you are talking about? Is it 1 side to center of housing? Does anyone know what the offset that the pinion yoke sits at?

[dakotajr]

On a car, the stock pinion offset is 1.375" longer on the drivers side. If you are talking Dakota, I believe they are centered. Flange to flange is wheel mounting surfaces.
Housing length is without the axles. The one on ebay, would be measuring just the housing itself. Does that include the center section and axles? I could not find it on Ebay.

[littlejohn44]

Here is the link
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mopar-8-3-4-rearend-housing-for-Cuda-Challanger-E-body_W0QQitemZ260546936929QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotor s_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item3ca9cec061
I was talking about the 8 3/4 pinion offset. I am trying to get the numbers down to either cut one or find an a-body axle. Overall I need an 51 1/2 flange to flange with pinion centered. Does the lenght change on drum to drum if you go from the 10" to 11 drum"? Thanks for all the info